tripletopper

I found 2 for cheap. One had a player 2 port, the other didn't. One finicky thing about it is you must adjust the sliders to get it to center, and the second controller depends on the first controller so be prepared to have a lot of time adjusting to make it a fair 2 player game. I also found a Fight stick for cheap. All this was around 2005. Prices have gone up since then.

The 3DO requires a cartridge for that particular model (I need a Goldstar model for my Goldstar 3DO) But seriously, a lot of the last model Laser Discs, and quite a few DVD players AND recorders have them. But DVDs have 8 times the storage of a CD for twice the cost per disc.. I transferred my friend's winning performance on Life to the Power of X from BetaMax, to a RCA video adapter and burnt it on a VCD, before I a) Had a Mac with a Superdrive, and b) I found a VCR-Style DVD Recorder. We got the video recorder shortly after Life to the Power of X, so we transfrrd straight from Betamax to DVD recorder, and it looks good. That's the video Jamal uploaded to youtube. If you're looking for a game console that can easily do VCD, try a Sega Dreamcast, just burn a boot disc that's a combined MP3/VCD player, eject and play VCDs and MP3CDs until you turn the power off. They are free online. I've even bought one with a physical remote control that plugs into Joyport 1. But my DVD recorder can play VCDs so who cares.

I'm most interested in using a fight stick with my old digital systems. So maybe I COULD one if there were a fight stick for Jaguar. I know I COULD have a fight stick with switchable PCB pad hacks. Would it be easier to pad-hack a Jaguar controller and let that device convert to digital than it would be to manually wire a 5200 controller to actuate for digital games. I'd rather see a PS2-> 5200 pad hack, because PS2 is a popular format for adapters from ToToTek and other companies to convert to other arcade stick standards. But the addition of the keypad is tricky, because it's not one-pin-one-button. Also the buttons are reversed fro a stick ssuer's perspective> Since the Index finger is on the "main" button c should equal (I don't have enough 2 button 5200 games to know the answer to this but) if there is generally regarded as one of the 2 being the rapid fire button, that one should be on C. B is auxiliary fire, and C is pause, and option and Start are reset and Start respectively. Speaking of Arcade stick hacking: Is the only difference between a Jaguar Pro controller and a Jaguar standard the extra 5 buttons, and I read that they are just keypad remaps. If that’s true, if I want to make a pad-hacked fight stick adapter to hook up to a db15 connector or something like that, would a Standard Jaguar Pad work where the default for L R Z Y and X are 1 3 4 5 and 6 respectively? Would it be a waste of a Jag Pro Pad to take apart one of those for pad hacking? Would pad hacking a Standard Jag Pad work for that just as well? Or is there something else different about a Jag Pro Pad where there’s performance issues by hacking a standard Jag Pad for arcade sticks?

I doin't need a PS2 analog stick for analog games, because for the ones that truly need it, (Kaboom,Super Breakout, etc...) it makes more sense to have NON centering controllers. I tried to play paddle games on the Xbox One using analog controllers in "absolute mode" and it's hard to dial and hold a position. Compare Warlord on a true paddle and an analog stick that centers back. The reason why Atari analog games work the way they do IS because they're non-self-centering. You'll fight centering resistance trying to hold a particular position for Warlords. I want it for digital games. I found an Atari 5200 digital joystick. It is good for most games, but has a couple problems. It looks like a 2600 joystick, clicks like a real arcade joystick, and has a Y adapter to plug in a real 5200 stick you have to center manually before you start the game. basically it sends a potentiometer signal at maximum +x, maximum +y, maximum -x and maximum -y. The left button is the main button, which works for right handed 2600 players, but not lefties. Also it doesn't work well for Moon Patrol with its 2-button scheme and bridging your thumb over tot he other side.. I heard a couple games don't work well. Popeye is one of them. I think it might have trouble with diagonals because 100% north + 100% east equals 141% Northeast. there is a physical limiter on the original Atari joystick which makes the maximum radius 100%. Would the solution have a "Dial a Range"- where you set it at 70% for the cardinals and diagonals would be 98% I heard there is a way to turn USB into DB15. Maybe PS2 can be turned into USB, and then go from there with a USB to DB15 adapter for fight sticks that I see in a few places. THen from DB15 Fight, it can be converted to DB15 5200. I'm mainly interested if a PS2 digtial stick input can be converted to a 5200 "functionally digital, electronically analog" signal. I assume the bottom button on the 5200 is the "main rapid fire button" on most games, and the top button is the secondary button. If that's the case, then X=bottom and O=top

I'm wondering about how many games use a joystick + Keypad. I'm familiar with Mouse Trap where you need the keypad buttons because it's a 4 button game before the super action controller. Front Line Rocky use overlays just to identify which buttons are which, there are no keypad buttons, except pause which, when used, is always * unless otherwise stated in the book, and didn't start until after the initial releases. Star Trek and Spy Hunter had both standard and Super Action overlays, and the super action ones were just identifiers, and Star Trek didn't need a keyboard with forward for thrusters and backwards for warp. I never had Spy Hunter, but I assume you press some keypad buttons to make a standard controller works. And Super Action American Football and Baseball and Soccer Football require everything, Joystick, keypad, buttons, and roller. Does any game other than Mouse trap require fast actions in pressing the keypad buttons? Most of the other games sound like it's not a matter of frames as to when you press the buttons. And I'm not talking about super Action Baseball, American Football, and Soccer Football (both called Super Action Football in both America and Europe respectively) that are best with a Real Super Action controller. Is there any other fast action game that requires fast keypad presses, or both keypad and buttons? I know INTV have lots of games that require keypad presses. What about the Atari 5200? Do any of those games require both a button press and a keypad press (I'm thinking Defender, but never played it at home. Any others?) I'm just thinking if a fight stick that can map to only certain buttons is okay, like 1,2,3, and 5 for mouse trap, one keypad button for defender (I don't know which), there was one game where you have to use 1,2, and 3 to type 3 digit codes to stop the A-Bomb I played on a bootleg Atari 800 game (is THAT for the 5200?) but the 3 digit mode is a separate mode which doesn't require the joystick or action button until you disarm the bomb. If I know the complete universe of ACTION games, action meaning games I can't take my sweet time with and may use anything at any time, and go quickly, for the INTV, CV, and 5200, (I would go the Arcadia 2001 except you can't put in an external controller, and in the US there are no games worth playing that use the keypad and require quick access to all three of the joystick, buttons, and keypad, at least ones worth playing in the USA.) I'd like to know so I can just wire THOSE buttons. I don't plan to play Blackjack and Poker with a fight stick when the default controller work fine for that purpose. If I can get it wired DB25, then it's as simple as wiring one connector to the joystick. I'm just getting an inventory of games that need to be covered. and which buttons I need wired. I know I need 1,2,3, and 5 for Mouse Trap. it could save some money if I don't have to wire every or potentially every button.

I had an experience with Adam's House. I purchased instructions from him. This was around 2002-2005. He send me PRINTOUTS of instructions in non-original sizes, and some were Black and White of releases that weren't in B/W. One of them was scanned so bad it was illegible. I paid 20-40 instructions for $2-5 per instructions, plus $5 shipping, and I got instructions of varying quality. If I were going to get copies, I'd buy the .JPG copies on disc, which I have bought on a $2+S/H DVD sent to me (back then I had dial-up) and print them out myself. I don't know whether it costs more for Adam's House to print it out, or whether it'd cost more DIY full color? Obvious separate Cyan / Magenta / Yellow packs would be easier, I just buy a lot of Cyan for Coleco Brand instructions.

1) WWE Raw 32X was a 4-PLAYER game that uses 6 button. Does any game with more than 4 players use the 6 button? 2) Wheel of Fortune for the Sega CD is a 3-player game which requires either 3 true 3-button controllers or MAYBE (haven't tested recently) a 6-Button with holding mode button down. Any other game which requires more than 2 3-button controllers? Depending on the answers to both of these questions, I'll sell either a 6-button or 3 button controller.

I have one more controller than I need. I have enough controllers to play a game of NHL with 5 players a team and a human controlled goalie on each side. I have 3 3D controllers, and I have 10 Standard controllers (a mix of model 1 and model 2), plus a Virtua Stick, 2 Stunners, 2 multitaps, 1 Mission Stick, and 1 steering wheel, all official. I found a lot a lot in the the late 90s when people were closing out on Sega Saturn, and I originally had the Saturn before an N64 on N64's Day One. I found House of the Dead in a non-thrift media store for $10. I found 3 rare Saturn RPGs for a dollar each. I sold one on ebay for over $150, but when I told one friend, he told me of another friend we both know who was collecting Saturn RPGs, despite the fact he didn't (at the time, maybe still doesn't) have a Saturn, I sold the other 2 to him for 1/4-1/2 the going ebay price to help a friend. I made money, he saved money, and it went to a friend who appreciates it. I would have stopped the other auction, except ebay looked down on auction cancellers. Since I have one more standard compatible controller than I need, I'm going to sell one to pay for an adapter for my fight stick to play with older systems including my Saturn from ToToTek.com . There are 2 concerns: 1) I heard a rumor that Golden Axe: The Duel does not work with a 3D controller, even in + mode. I think it has something to do with the analog trigger not working right. A) Is that true? B) Are there any other games like that? and C) are any of those games 10-12 players? If I sell one standard controller, I'll have 9 controllers Concern 2) I have 3 3D analog sticks. A) Does any game use more than 2 3D analog sticks simultaneously in O mode? B) Which games and C) What is the maximum number of Analog sticks it can specifically support? Depending on these answers and what the market bears, I'll sell one controller on ebay. Any requests? Model 1 digital, Model 2 digital, or 3D stick?

I don't know if it's the exact same system at the Georgia Tech series, but MIT andchromatek.com developed something called Chromadepth, which makes reds look in the foreground and blues in the background. I saw twitcher IntellivisionDude have 2 different 3D programs. One is called Spirit, which looks cool in 3D, but doesn't look Chroadepth 3D. There may be some "Highlights" of chromodepth which make the balls in the demo pop more with Chromoadepth glasses. And Hover Force 3D gives it extra pop with thee chromatek.com glasses. You can order Chromadepth glasses, and other 3D stereoscopic glasses, like Red and Cyan from americanpaperoptics.com They have places where you can order multiple types of 3D glasses. Speaking of 3D, I remember Super Mario 64 had 3D glasses if you ordered them from Toys R Us. (I don't know how to print a backwards R, so that's good enough .) ) I told them I was going to video a Chromadepth miniature golf course near my hometown on a Nintendo 3DS, and was wondering whether it was better to film "naked" and let the user filter with these glasses, or film with these glasses on in front of the 3D camera. Binocular+Chromadepth make weird effects. They sent me 4 pairs of each Chormadepth, red and cyan and Pulfrich (left eye clear, right eye grey-tinted), which I believe is the technology that worked with Super Mario 64 to test them out. Unfortunately, I put my 3DS in Low Light mode, and it captured only 4 frames per second, so I have to film it again in normal light mode. And yes Chromadepth is enhanced by black backgrounds, hence the darkness. Maybe I should embrace my Sith and not compensate for light. If you want a sample of the major 3 technologies for a family of 4, visit http://americanpaperoptics.com/contact and leave your address and email, and they'll mail as many that can fit in an ounce of postage. 3 different technologies for 4 people would fit in an ounce. That is their sample pack. They just randomly pick anaglyph, chormadepth, and pulfrich (in my example) glasses, mix and match, and send for free. Where they make their money is bulk packing glasses with a run of 1000+ to be distributed. Sometines they can go 6 figures or more in quantity for less than a penny a pair. But they give free samples.

Edladdin, you only got half the answer. The other half is the circuitry in the joystick itself. If anyone's got that, you can make some money. With very limited electrical knowledge, I assume that there is an x-axis pin, and a y-axis pin, and they are continuous analog pins that accept a voltage. I assume you need the cardinal directions to dial out a voltage/resistance, or some other fact that makes analog controls work, one direction is minimum, one was maximum, and neutral defaults to the setting on the actual 5200 stick, so a working 5200 controller would be the center adjuster/calibrator. The design requires a working 5200 controller to work. Best-electronics-ca.com is interested in a digital solution for the Atari 5200. They said it would takes tens of thousands of dollars of research to come up with a digitally actuated analog electronically stick. Fight stick adapters can use digital sticks to actuate analog controls in a digital manner on PS1/N64/Saturn and higher sticks. I believe the circuit board in a Coin Controls Competition Pro Joystick is now in Public Domain if it were patented. If someone can find that circuit diagram, that would be cool. I believe some fight stick makers can wire the actuators to a pot individually at the extreme left value and extreme right value( and up and down), if you have a sacrifice 5200 joystick for them to wire. The only question is how there Atari 5200 deals with diagonals. Is the NE representation NE 100% north and 100% East or if it's 70.7% N and 70.7% east on games that are obviously digital games. Would a 5200 work in 100% N 100% E on games that are obviously digital (which is most 5200 games) If so, that would make wiring simpler, instead of doing (square root of 3) / 2 which requires separate diagonal wiring spots. I understand that kind of wiring would give a "diagonal speed boost" giving you a velocity of the square root of 2 or 141% in analog games, and the game might work wrong if it showed a radius for 141% on games that are programmed in radius/angle mode, not X/Y mode and if anyone competes on a 5200 during an any game/any console/any era tournament, certain games would be illegal with a Competition Pro, but then again, chances are you need more precision control, so the disadvantage is probably greater than any advantage gained, and that would regulate itself.

Towmater, anything that starts with "Nordonia Open" in the title. There are lots of videos. I don't have that good of bandwidth, so I had Zophar321 upload the videos. So look for any video uploaded by "Zophar321" and that is an Official Nordonia Open video. The rest involve Nordonia other stuff videos and other Mini-Golf videos, but there are in the "other things of interest" section.

View the Twitter account of me, @tripletopper to see a picture of Pac-Man within the game of Breath of the Wild. Or better yet, visit http://56ok.org and visit my website for people who need to cope with limited bandwidth on their network games. It's currently posted on this website. If I can make my picture smaller, I would, it takes up the whole page. IS there a way I can shrink the picture with HTML code? Until I shrink it, admire the picture. Here's another copy.

I believe Vectron is also 16 way game. I don't understand the game but you can put the placement cursor of your aiming directions in many the bottom half of the 16 directions, and directions can be dialed instantly, and it has some tertiary directions. I'm just wondering, If I'm GETTING built an arcade stick, just so I need to know, what games are unplayable with an 8-way stick. I'll see if there's any game worth getting a true 16 way stick. I believe the Colecoviison has 8 actual actuators. I've taken apart the controller, so I've seen it. If it can be modified so in-between directions work, then solution like that might come in handy. maybe At Games can make a Retro Arcade stick for 50 to work with the 5200 (only in digital mode so arcade games would work right), Intellivision 16 digital way stick, Colecovision Super Action Controller, and Atari Jaguar Pro Arcade Stick. One important thing it needs to be is ambidextrous. (P.S. how does one make lower resolution real pictures, or at least more zoomed out. As someone who suffers from bandwidth deficiency, I don't want to over post in terms of picture when a smaller picture will do.) A keypad can be slipped outside the button area, or for Super Action Baseball and American Football, put the keypad INSIDE the Joystick so you can operate the action buttons and the Roller Wheel at the same time, the Super Action Roller Wheel can be placed below the keypads. Also Mouse Trap could be played with a Coleco keypad and arcade stick in 2 different hands. The 5200 kepypad could have start, pause and reset above the main keypad, and the only thing the Jaguar Pro needs is the 1, 3, 4, 5, and 6 mapped to L, R, Z, Y, and X respectively. Or At Games could make a PS2-> those system adapters. (2 other ones I'd add. Astrocade, a Genesis controller doesn't map to it well, even in non-paddle games, and a 3DO with Dasiy Chaining so that the player with this joystick can be ANY player along the chain, not just the last, like using the Tototek PS1->3DO adapter.

I noticed 2 mistakes in the Colecovision List. The Activision Decathlon and QBert's Qubes don't work well with the super action controller. On the Activision Decathlon, the action button is either always held or is rapid pressing, I can't tell which, but in jumping and throwing events, the joystick always has you jumping and throwing at the earliest possible time, and at either the minimum or maximum angle, with no way to alter it. Regular Programs don't have that problem. And in QBert's Qubes, if you don't release the level select button at the instant the intro screen is shown, the screen glitches out with the Super Action Controllers. Regular controllers don';t have that problem. With these two finding I always notice happens, I suggest people try it, report, and do one of 2 things. If enough of you find that on your real Colecovisions and real Super Action Controllers, if these glitches happen consistently, (I've had multiple Colecovisions, and they all had those problems with those 2 games.), then whoever made the list should delist these 2 games as Super Action Compatible. If too many don't find these problems, maybe someone can diagnose what's wrong with the Colecovision. Also does anyone else know of any other regular controller games that don't work with Super Action Controllers?

Sorry to bump, BUUUT, a PS360 is a fight stick board that has lots of systems it can hook up to, most of them using a PS2/PS1 as the base that other converters can plug into on websites like Goldenshop.com and Goldenshop.com.hk which are the same company. But they have no adapters for Intelllivision, Colecovision, Astrocade, 5200, 7800, Vectrex and Jaguar, even though they DO have ones for TurboGrafx 16 and the 3DO (even though the one they're offering has no daisy chaining ability). Why those systems and not the ones I mentioned? I don't know. And if you have a Genesis controller, it will plug in where ONE of the buttons is an Atari 2600 Joystick, and those places sell PS->Genesis adapters, but I heard rumors that the PS360 uses an 8 pin ethernet cable and loses something when translated to the 9-pin connector on the Genesis. But it might work for the Atari, even if it doesn't work for Genesis. The only other system besides rthe 2600 and Genesis it works with is the Master System. it does NOT work with the 7800.

GoldenShop.com.hk and goldenshop.com has lots of Playstation to (fill in the blank) adapters. Maybe a Playstation to Intellivision adapter would be good. It needs an "original/Flashback" switch, because Flashback is reversed and I got my Intellivision 1 "Flashback controller modded". I just ordered and did it myself. This was in hopes of attaching a fight stick to the Intellivision. I think only two games, Vectron and the second version of Auto Racing, is rendered totally unplayable by the 8 way controller. Some games may be altered a little, like fine dodging would be trickier, but most games would be HELPED with an 8-way switchable to a 4 way controller. While we're at it a Playstation to Colecovision adapter, a PS-> 5200, a PS->7800, a PS-> Jaguar, and a PS-> Astrocade just for fight sticks, (no games that use paddles). IF you can save significant money off hiring someone to pad hack each respective controller. Some may want PS-> Vectrex, PS-> Channel F, and PS-> CD-i and I would say PS-> Odyssey 2 and PS-> Arcadia, except most of the first, and all of the second, don't have detachable controllers, so until a) someone cares enough, which we may find of Odyssey 2, but is extremely hard to find for an Arcadia, (I own an Arcadia. Found it plus 7 cartridges for $35.00 guaranteed working from a used media store, I got 14 of the 21 games ever made, and of those 14, there are like 0 I'd go to voluntarily, and would only go to if someone challenges me on a back-to-back twitch streams) and b) someone is able to make such an adapter would make an adapter that convert hard wired sticks to DB9s or something like that, and then from there go into a PS controller. As for PS->CV, most games can run on either regular or Super Action controllers, but some games only work on SA. Other games, like The Activision Decathlon and Q*Bert's Qubes REQUIRE a Standard CV joystick. they don't run right on Super Action controllers. Finally there needs to be a DB9 (or for the 5200) DB15 adapter for using simultaneous keypad action. Also, it could work with both digital and analog controls since the PS Dual Shock 1 and PS2 dual Shock 2 has both analog and digital directions, the 5200 can even have twin analog/twin digital for Robotron and Space Dungeon outputting to 2 separate 5200 ports.

..oops let me finish ... where he could see the old blending with the new well to spread out the old experience as well as a new one. My product, the specifics of which is impolite to hawk so close to the death of a guy who approved of it, would have opened Intellivision to new people, which was Keith's vision for Intellivision. In the same way Frank Sinatra and his music he sung was cool in the 90s until his death, Keith made Intellivision cool, and preserved the Legacy of Intellivision and opened it to new audiences. Not as massively as he would have liked, but enough to make enough of a living where whatever money he made was a bonus to doing a job he loved to do and loved to share, and would do for free anyway. The way I tried to sell Keith on my invention was the fact that more people would pay attention to old games if they were online because most original fans have no local opponents at their skill level. The way was to recruit network opposition. I told him if he funded it, his company would not only get a big portion of profits from Intellivision games being turned online, but with other systems like Atari, Sega, Nintendo, Coleco, SNK, NEC could be turned online with this technology. All the other companies except one said it would be nice if it were real, but no one else wanted to be the guinea pig. Sega banned me off their official website chat pages because they said "we don't do crazy". Not only did Keith say it would be nice if it were true, he did the calculations and said that my way, if it lived up to what was promised, is cheaper to make EVERY game online, than making ONE of his own games online with a traditional networking method. In other words, he took my idea seriously and saw the joys it could bring and how it could be spread to other retro systems. I hope Steve Roni, whom Keith consulted with to see the feasibility of my idea, or whoever will be in charge of the Intellivision properties after Keith's death, will keep the Intellivision name alive, and I'd like to talk to the company's heir(s) once a week has gone by to mourn, and see if my invention can fit in their plans. I hope I described my invention enough to show what kind of person Keith was and how him liking this idea showed something about him more than it sounds like a shill for my idea. But in order to accurately tell the story, I had to describe my relationship. I didn't specify the name or website of my project, though it is researchable if you look up my user id, out of respect for Keith. If it sounds like a shill, I'm sorry, but that's the way I primarily knew Keith personally. I wasn't an Intellivision fan until I found a real good deal at a Garage Sale i the 90s, a console and quite a few games for $5. It's easy to promote Intellivision when you biggest competitor is the Atari 2600. It takes a special kind of person to promote the Intellivision, 3 or more generations later. Keith was that special person.

I honestly didn't know of Keith Robinson personally, until I made a pitch for a device which turns retrogames online. Keith Robinson was the most enthused of the retro game rights holders with my idea. Oh by the way, I purchase a INTV 1 Flashback Controller Mod Kit and simple instrucitons to add external controllers in the INTV 1, and 3 Flashback controllers, 2 for the original machine,(because you can't use original INTV controllers with the Flashback Mods), and 1 for a pad hack so I can plug an arcade stick in the Intellivision for games that would benefit from it, and then go back to the original controller for games that would benefit from that. I never had a Intellivision as a kid. My brother and I chose Colecovision at the time, but I found Intellivision games and a console or 2 when garage "sale-ing" and thrift shopping in the 90s, and I enjoyed them. I even found rare INTV Corp Intellivision Games like Pole Position, Pac-Man, some post-crash sports games, and a few others, 12 in all, all white label games, for $1 apiece at the Goodwill Outlet Store (If Goodwill wasn't cheap enough, this drops it another level). In the short time I knew him, he was enthusiastic about the Intellivision brand, hardware, and software. He was one of the first one to think of video game preservation. He was kind, and friendly. And he appreciated new technology enough where

Here's a "non-game" cartridge that, if you dig deep, is an actual game. But it requires 2 people to be a game, single player I believe is trivial. Bingo Math. I believe it can be a legal game of Skill, a legal game for money to be run by an establishment for profit in Ohio and other jurisdictions for money, but ONLY if the Bingo Board is either identical, or possibly horizontally, vertically, or diagonally mirrored, The game works like this. All answers are a digit 0-9, and your bingo board is filled with single digits of 0-9. Solve a problem: "24+13=3?" the correct answer is 7 because 24+13=37 and all answers are a digit between 0-9.. Find a 7 on the board and claim it before your opponent. If you claim it first, you mark it on your board and lock out your opponent, but don't be overzealous, a wrong answer gives your opponent a free square anywhere. First one with a row of 5 wins. Questions can be as easy as 1+2 = ? or could be harder, but you're both working on the same question, so it's a game of skill. In easier levels it makes more sense to claim the first square you see with that answer, but on more complex problems, you might want to scan the whole board and look for the "best" square. Also I had a lot typed before, but I wasn't logged in so it was lost. Remember, Log in BEFORE you go on a text tirade.

A question, are you intentionally leaving system, controller and miscellaneous accessory instruction books, or are you loking to add them. I need a couple and thought I could contribute by scanning a couple of the Sega and other console, controller, and accessory booklets. They are in legible condition, but some have some folds for being stored in awkward places, but no markings. The ones I have for Sega systems are : Genesis console instruciton manual (model 1, post extention prot removal), Sega CD System Manual, (front loading model 1), 32X system instrrction book (from a Day 1 32X, where they talk about the CDX spacer as an option), Sega 6 button controller, Video Monitor Cable, Menacer controller instructions (NOT THE 6-PACK OF GAMES), Team Player 2 (EA 4 Way Play-compatible), CD Back Up Ram Cart, Saturn System, 3D Control Pad, Keyboard Adapter, Netlink, Netlink Internet Quick Start Guide, 6PLayer Multi-PLayer, Game Gear rechargable Battery Pack,, Dreamcast system, Mad Catz Dream Blaster (the Sega authorized gun for the US market) , Mad Catz Dream Accessories Catalog, Interact DC Alloy Arcade Stick, Sega Visual Memory Unit, DCX Game Adapter, Nyko DC Commander (good for a fightpad, but not authorized), Sega DC Microphone, Performance DC tremor Pak, Sega 4x memory card. The ones I need, and can hopefully find a scan later for are: SS Virtua Stick, SS Stunner, SS Mission Stick, SS Memory Card, DC Maracas, DC Keryboard, the authorized DC rumble pack (I know that's a Nintendo name), Sega Master System, (preferably form the one with Snail Maze built in) , SMS Arcade Stick, SMS Sports Pad, SMS Light Phaser, SMS 3D Glasses I also got some game and system/accessory manuals from Atari 2600, Bally Astrocade, Odyssey 2, Intellivision, Colecovision, Arcadia 2001, Starpath Supercharger, Atari 5200, NES, Atari 7800, SNES, Turbo Grafx 16, 3DO, N64, PS1, PS2, Xbox, Game Cube, Xbox 360, PS3, Wii, Wii U, Xbox One. Tell me what you have and I'll see what holes I can fill. I don't have enough time to scan and send them all to you via email. Also even though i know you intend well, if you get a lot of items coming in, you might forget whose is what's and either I get instruction I didn't need or (worse) i don't get certain ones back. If you have all Sega based accessories, you scan them. If you don't have a particular one or few, I'll scan it and send it via email. I casn scan back to back pages like 1+back, 2+3, 4+5 etc. It also keeps the scans in a legible order.

You're both right. Sega's history is not distinctly American or Japanese but had those two elements blended from the beginning. Sega, which is short for SErvice GAmes, (I don't know if there is a Japanese word pronounced Sega other than the company name) It was founded by Americans who made the games in Japan to be put on US Armed Forces bases that were physically located in Japan. They got their start making mechanical games, and ventured into the video game business in the 70's and 80's. In the 80's they were bought by Gulf + Western, the same conglomerate company that owned Paramount Pictures, hence why Sega had the rights to the official Star Trek strategic simulator game, (even though it was more of an action game). After the crash, since their factories were in Japan, but had American owners, Sega had a culture shift in the year they sold it to Japanese interests, but the original company owners had stock in the the company, so they were still a mix of US and Japanese, but the New Japanese and American owners became 2 partially competing, partially cooperating companies. That's why they never had a consistent worldwide hit. Master System's territory was Brazil and Europe, Genesis was US and Europe, (with the Master System still the number 1 system in Brazil), Saturn in Japan, and Dreamcast in the US. But that's true, it's probably resentment of their former American bosses and they made the Genesis a success, and the 32X and Saturn went in 2 opposite directions, so there have been some resentment, and Sega was the most American system maker since Atari and before Microsoft.

As for mapping that jalopy, I was thinking of using 2 "predetermined" street fighter arrangements, which is close enough for most games, and then for things like Pac Land, Track N Field, and other specialty games, I'd hand program it, and by program I mean, because I'm poor and believe a button programmer would ruin ping time, manually rewiring with RCA cables or some similar easy to connect connector, and color coding the cables and holes. But I learned my lesson about multiple systems. The system switch should be independent of the button toggle, so if I want the same arrangement for a new system, I just swap systems, but keep the buttons the same. I know it's a little work, but it's more of a contingency plan than an actual plan. It's basically I trade time and convenience for some cost savings. I get a more versatile joystick and in return I got more labor.

My point was that I beat an eventual champion using a right handed stick. And so did 3 of my friends. I know the test isn't scientific, but I was beating everyone in my group with the right handed joystick, and everyone else using the right handed stick beat the eventual champ. And he was thrashing everyone in our group joypad vs joypad. The secret in Street Fighter 2 New challengers is that over 50% of the game is dictated by how well you can pull off a dragon punch and fireball motion, which is easier, quicker, more accurate, and less predictable to an opponent in the right hand than the left (at least for me). Add that to the fact is that in SFIINC most of the time all you need is one button at a time to pull off most specials and you can see why that game makes sense for right stick. (I think Zangief and Dahlsim are the only exceptions. But it's easy to press 3 buttons at once.) Later they designed the game with more button gymnastics, like Killer Instinct and larger, engineered combos in other games. I don't know if it will hold up today, but if your strategy is to 90%+ execute specials, right handed is the way to go. If your strategy is button combos, left handed is the way to go. It depends on which one you have to make sure you get right, and in New Challengers, it was, for me and my friends, direction. Different games and different characters within games (both who you are and who you're facing) have different strategies. If you're trying to master one game and do it real well, get the one best for your craft, the later the game is, the more likely it's left handed. But if you're going to be a Jack of All Games, meaning, like Jamal, being able to beat 90% of people in 90% of games, only losing to those who dedicate endless hours at one game every day, then an ambidextrous joystick might be for you. I don't know if one is scientifically better for all people for all games for all time. I just know what's scientifically better for me and my friends at the time SF2NC was big. And if that moves me up from bottom half to top third in almost every game I own, it'd be worth it. But remember, your mileage may vary.

I can't believe what a vigorous argument we are having. The reason why most fighting games are left stick is because a) it takes a lot of real estate on a cabinet to have 2 sets of buttons, and since NES was the 90% standard in the US and Japan, and NEC, Genesis, and SNES followed, and there was a mass market appeal thing, the joystick was on the left. And the reason why Nintnedo put it on the left was because Donkey Kong was supposed to use Radarscope cabinets which is a 1 dimensional shooter, so It was on the left. That being said. You got 4 options if you're a right handed joystick player. 1) Learn lefty, 2) Quit games, 3) either make for yourself, or hire someone to make, a right handed josytick, or 4) Tell Madcatz you'll put down a 50% reserve on a right handed joystick. If enough people do 4, they'll make it ambidextrous or separate left/right versions. But remember if you make separate left/right verison, you'll have to anticipate what percentage of the people will prefer left or right. And remember if you're going to make an ambidextrous stick, it can either be a bare basic horizontal button arrangement, or as you'll see I found an arrangement that would work good ambidextrous. As to whether the left or right side stick is better, I've got some anecdotal evidence saying the right side is better for me in most games. With the coming of the Genesis version of Street Fighter II The New challengers, I bought a custom stick. It had a joystick and button set as separate boxes and can be placed on a velcro board to stabilize them. It was a cheap controller only $70 in the Genesis SNES days, and te buttons were from a standard right button arrangement, so it felt a little weird when I played button left. I played it with me and 4 of my friends. I carried my ambistick over. I was not only beating everyone, one person who got particukarky cheesed came in second and I told him the secret was the right handed stick. e didn't believe me, so I had my other 3 friends face him with the stick in both right- and left-handed forms. All 3 of them beat this doubting friend with a right handed joystick twice each. With a left stick 2 of them went 1-1 and the other won twice. What do I attribute that to. Well to do a dragon punch well enough so your opponent can't see it coming, you have to move quickly in a z and press 1 button. With a right handed stick every time I willed a Z move, I was able to pull it off. Not so with the joypad. I was concentrating on individual moves with a left pad so much that 2 tings happened. 1) opponents could see it coming, and 2) I couldn't concentrate on reacting to my opponent because I was trying to will a dragon punch except concentrating on the screen to see if I'm too late and making a reaction. Also my will to action ratio was well below 50%. I was misfiring dragon punches more often than hitting them. Bt with the right handed stick I never had a misfire except if I got hit before I finished throwing it. Now this is a fairly famous gamer that was the Doubting Thomas. He would usually be in the top 2 or 3 of literally every game we played in our group of 8-10 for every system, old or new at the time. He would win the local Blockbuster Genesis championship. And then he appeared twice on TV. He makes his living in competitions as multi- and varied- game tournaments. Winning 2 of them, Life to the Power of X on Spike TV, and 1 year of Iron Man of gaming, and in other years of IMOG,he was always in the top 10 and more than half the time in the top 5 on a contest where people traveled all over the country to come there where there were 100 some entrants. Some people who won big one year fell into the bottom half the next. He was the most consistent finisher, always in the run for the finals. He is Jamal Nickens, and his handle is Zophar 321 on various social websites. If you want to see his Life to the Power of X performance, visit http://www.jackofallgamestv.com/lifex.htm He also appeared on Season 1 of WCG Ultimate Gamer. He'll be a good house contestant for a the game show concept also promoted on this website on the main page. I talked with him recently, and we were talking, and the subject came up on last week's Twitch.tv/Zophar321 broadcast of M1 Abrams Battle Tank stream. I was trying to tell him that is one person can execute specials on will, and the other has a 50% special rate or less, he'd dominate New Challengers, because supers give you so much an advantage. (less so for newer fighters) Also combos were less emphasized, there were no engineered combos, just natural combos that occurred as part of the game engine. The were no Supers, and it was a simpler game. And at the time he was using a gamepad. If he can find a Joystick for the Genesis where he can execute 90+% of his specials, he'd probably beat me now. And when Street Fighter was said to be online for Dreamcast and later systems, he remembered how 4 of us beat him with a better weapon, so he wised up and got a joystick. More recently, he whooped me, but it was with a more modern version of a fighter. And as anecdotal evidence, his first 2 systems were Colecoviison and Vectrex. Colecovision he could have held either way and a Vectrex was left handed, so he learned that way. I had a Colecovision, so I had a choice. I was exposed to Atari 2600 so I understood that one. If it gave me a choice, I (unless a fire button wasn't working) chose the right side, especially on 1 or 2 button games. The NES pad was no problem for me. Instead of holding it with my hands and using 2 thumbs, I putt he controller on the floor and used my index and Middle fingers to make diagonals, and independently manipulate buttons. I was making some of the more complex jump/fire patterns compared to my brother and friends. But when I had an NES Advantage, it felt unnatural to use a left hand for the stick. I eventually got used to it, but later I bought a Beeshu Jazz right handed for NES and was usually using that or the pad. Also my opinion was tainted because at some electronics store, it was demoed with Super Mario Bros. the single worst game to show off rapid fire and slo mo. Kid NIki was a better game to show it off as a cheat. Later I learned that cheating in games only helps you beat story mode. It loses you friends as opponents. It was not until the SNES where I had to buy a joystick because I normally put the controller on the ground and Shoulder buttons were becoming more key. Also a piece of advice, If you;re going to spend $200-300 ona custom joystick for fighters, one) make it ambidextrous so you can play all those older games in whatever way feels more comfortable, which may change from game to game, and 2) spend an extra $50-150 to make it multi-console, because good joystick parts are good joystick parts regardless of the system, so why re-buy them for different consoles, when you can reuse them for multiple consoles. If I get an Xbox One joystick, it's debatable whether I want to play right- or left-handed because of Killer instinct Xbox One, where it might pay more dividends to be dextrous on the buttons compared to the stick in SF2NC with all these extra long combos and a lot of the game being determined by unpredictabilty and button dexterity, so they can't combobreak and you can lengthen the combo. If you use the same set of predetermined combos, your get combobroken. FInallly, here's an idea for an ambidextrous joystick. I shares it with Mad Catz, and they liked it enoug where their next "non-game-specific" controller for modern machines may be so if they find a good arrangement. I suggest instead of buttion 6-8 buttons on both sides, put 2 joysticks on either side of an 8 button arrangement. As for the arrangement of the buttons look at this picture: It shows my left hand on the buttons comfortably. Just to show this is not an ergonomically altered stick or doctored picture, here it is on right hand. Finally, here's a perfect design for an ambidetrous model. It has 2 sticks for 2 reasons. 1) is for Robotron type games. 2) is for Super Smash Bros. games, and 3 is becuase it takes up less real estate than 8 buttons on both sides: Lastly, if you have the Xbox one model where you can reprogram joystick directions and buttons as each other in the basic OS, this would be good

You should just keep any classic gaming systems around you want and get a CRT TV from a thrift store. There's one reason that even if you could hook up old systems, it's better to do it with a CRT TV, lag. Granted modern games have worse network lag than TV lag so it won't be noticed, and if most games can compensate for 50-100 ms lag, it can surely compensate for 16 ms screen lag, but old games are where you notice. Take a game you have to react to something because there's some randomness. Or take a game you have a pattern timed to the background music, (hence why older game music is more memorable than today's stuff.) If the timing feels right, you've got a low ping TV like a CRT TV. If you have to guess on a random game, or if you press at the right time according to music, but it comes up late, or if you have to shift everything a a beat earlier, that's a sign of high ping. Even the best HD TVs in minimal processing modes is 16 ms or one frame in a 60 FPS game. Most TVs are designed to make game look good, not play fast. I think I might have a Virtual Console tip on Wii/Wii U. Select 480 i, and go through on an S-Ideo, Composite or Component connection. Hook that up to a CRT TV. If it feels just like hooking an original NES to that screen, then this is a hidden way to play NES classics in Low Ping Mode. FInally, not sure if Ataris can be hooked up to 4K TV. A year or 2 ago a local-to-me low-powered analog TV station turned into a low-powered digital station. Maybe soon there is no way to use an antenna port to hook up a 2600, because all modern tuners use ATSC, or NTSC. Your RF TV must either be an analog, or analog/digital switchable tv. But the easiest way to turn an RF system into a composite system is to plug it into a VCR. It's light gun accurate. I've had problems with light guns pushed into a DVD recorder which does convert it to S-Video and or Component Video, but you should split it through a powered RF splitter and send one end straight into an Analog TV, if you want pixel-perfect light gun timing. Otherwise timing is thrown off not enough to notice it in most game play (< 1 ms), but enough to throw off a light gun(>55 ns at 480i resoluiton, limit is less with more pixels and fps). And for those who want to play a light gun game as old as the original Xbox and PS2 or older, a CRT TV, especially ones with S-Video and component are vital. CRT TVs draw pictures one pixel at a time, whereas Modern TVs have a steady stream of light on all pixels at once, which "pigments" block to create anything which isn't white, and change every frame. Most retailers can't get rid of them. So ask Best Buy to put you on a "buy a recycled CRT TV" list so they can make a little money instead of having to destroy it. Or check thrift stores. If you love retro games, there is no substitute for a CRT TV.