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tripletopper

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Everything posted by tripletopper

  1. I just did the first thing I said I would, I tried a Colecovision 2 Button gasme with both a 7800Pro-Line and a 7800 Joypad. They both work with ONE caveat. This is evident in Tutankham. You can shoot left by pressing the left button. You can shoot right by pressing the right button. But you CAN'T use your smart bomb by pressing both buttons together. It didn't work with joypad or 7800 joystick, but the colecovision joystick plugged in at the same time let me do smart bombs by pressing both buttons. And the reverse is even worse. Neither button works on a Coleco Vision controller plugged into a 7800. If you want a more comfortable controller, do what I do, take a functional joystick/pad, use it as a sacrificial circuit board, and have a "custom joystick builder" wire your joypad or arcade style joystick into the actuators, kind of like how Street Fighter players make custom joysticks. If you're able to remap the wires, you could make an ambidextrous joystick, and because in games like Tutankham where the concept of left fire and right fire is important, when you swap the joystick to be right handed, you can manually swap the buttons too. You can even use your controller buttons actuate the 1,2,3, and 5 buttons for Mouse Trap. In my case, you'd use a colecovision controller sacrificed for Colecovision games, and a 7800 Pro Line sacrificed for the 7800 games to work with my Sanwa joystick.
  2. Oh an update, there were 3 things wrong. One the tape was covering the contact. 2 the silver electric contact button was oriented 180 degrees wrong, and 3 the contact was dirty, so I isopropylholed the contact, got more scotch tape, and made the silver disc oriented the same way is he right hand side. One, Two or all 3 of those things fixed the problem. I just played, "How is the left button not like the right button?".
  3. I've go a 7800 joystick a 7800 joypad, 4 DB9 Y-Apapters (2 of them are the Gemini "wye" adapters, which has a function of plugging 2 single paddles of the Gemini controllers into one of 2 ports, but the other 2 are designed to have an 2600 joystick and coleocvision pad plug in together) I'l try it with a 7800 and y adpater and many different coleco games with 2 buttons. Also as a side note, the speed roller on the super action controller maps to buttons on the Genesis. I have to play Golden Axe (3 button), Street Fighter New Challengers (6 button) and Shadow Squadron (uses the mode button as an actual function other than enabling 3-buton mode) to get a clear mapping.
  4. It's not a dumb question. It's just found one person who said you could pry it open, and it doesn't permanently ruin the trakball. If you didn't ask the question, I wouldn't have found this answer, so thank you.
  5. IfI remember right the 2 bottoms action buttons were the same. I held the controller in my left hand, putting my left hand thumb o the let to bottom, left index and ring on top right and bottom right, and used my right index finger (and for any left/right games my right middle finder) to move. TO operate the keypad, I dial it with my right index finger, just like a touch tone phone. I was thinking of adding adapters in between the intellivision, (or intellivoice if using it) and the game for an external joystick adapter, where you can plug in custom joysticks, and do one other function I was thinking of. It would override the pads so you can control it with the new modern pad.
  6. I'm in the same sitch as theGamezmaster. Then I got to the point of the "two middle screws" not coming out. At first I thought it was a proprietary screw, so I searched Atari CX22 Bristol Screw and came on this page. Then I read this forum, and I got Ataritard's comment, the center holes also had the same sized philips head screws. theGamezmaster insists it's a proprietary screw. So I took a leap of faith. I noticed the lip between the top and bottom was a little loose, so I took a flathead, carefully separated it by running the flathead around the seam to make it loose enough so a pry doesn't damage the casing in case I did t wrong, pried it open and viola. It was opened. I used CD cleaner (Isopropyhol) to clean it. Will test it tomorrow when housemates are awake. By the way, if a left hand button is ruined, does that mean the main user before me was right handed? And if that's the case, why do right handers put up with left-handed Street Fighter joysticks, especially when you have to pull of those Dragon Punches? If both hands can type equally well, why use your good hand or the button pressing when it can be used for the more complex motion of moving a joystick/paddle/trakball? Posting this segue as a separate post unrelated to the trakball.
  7. Sorry to resurrect a old forum, but... The 7800 has a tall screen. And someone said that was a bad thing. The 5200, along with the 2600, Intelliviision, and Colecovision, are"pan and scan" versions. The dimensions of the screen is not the the arcade. When a movie is made pan and scan, it destroys the picture composition by either panning and scanning, slicing and dicing (when you jump between the "left half" and "right half" in a frame, or worst of all "skinny-scope". In video games it even more fundamentally changes the game. You have more horizontal room, which at first makes it harder, by making you hit dead air more often with more vertical columns, if the characters are the same proportion as the arcade, and less vertical room. which makes it easier later by giving you more columns so there's less time worrying about activating leas to clear scorpion-poisoned mushrooms. It's also easier to kill a scorpion in a 4:3 than a 3:4 screen. More verrtical room and being able to maneuver in the bottom third is more Centepede like and less Galaxian like. The 7800 versio preserves the arcades proportions of how game elements work with each other. If you can play an arcade version, and compare the 7800 and 5200 versions, which ones have strategy more compatible with the arcade version without making certain things easier or harder than the arcade? The only advantage the 5200 has is the trakball. I wish (though I wouldn't waste a genie wish on it) if someone made hobbyist 7800 Centipede Trackball Hack cartridges in a decent quantity. They should sell it at best-electronics-ca.com The other 7800 game I'd like is Possible Mission, the beatable version of Impossible Mission. Maybe Best Electronics can distribute it to hobyists who have a common interest instead of being dispersed on ebay.
  8. I've got a theory on how to build a "Netari 2600" a networked Atari 2600. I relies on piggybacking something that reads and writes random numbers and time stamps and writing a subroutine to pause a game if the networked isn't synched. My theory is based on the fact that I've got a network connection that will be able to beat a 16 ms ping time (16 ms/frame= 60 fps) And this theory will work with every 2-or-more-player, 1-screen, 1-controller-per-player game. No matter how great or small. Anyone who nows how to build either a piggyback device, or can modify a 2600 to transmit and receive joystick (easy, use a 9 pin Y adapter) random number and timestamp (harder without disrupting the game) contact me, and we can build a Netari based on my theory. tripletopperATearthlinkDOTnet
  9. I noticed Xbox couldn't truly network 2600 games. I've got a couple theories on this. 1 What is the controller red rate in reads/second for the 2600, others of its contemporaries, and future systems. I'm thinking it's similar to TV refresh rates, 60 Hz,. A cynical investor thinks the controller read rates are more in line with 8 frames/second. (I'll tell you why that's cynical later) 2. Is it true that to do a live joystick stream, you have to beat the time of one controller frame? (if 60 Hz, you need to beat 16 ms, if 8 Hz, you ned to beat 125 ms) I assume that's true. 3. Typical network traffic get anywhere from 80-150 ms ping or a trip between Cleveland and Chicago (600 km). And that would be too high of a ping time to work with joystick streaming. Is the reason because network traffic doesn't go from point A to point B and the only way to beat that is build a private network? 4. Would it make too much "extra programming" to networkize a 2600 game on the 360, an since most 2600 games are reflex an not strategy it's hard to anticipate how an opponent would act an the only way to networkize a 2600 game is to beat the ping time. I got theories on how to build a "Net-ari 2600" Current Atari and Sega brass say if I can show this works, they'll endorse my product. If my theories are correct and someone knows how to modify a 2600 to A) Y off your controller data to your machine and a network machine, B) receive joystick data from the net, C) Deal with random number data in a way so player 1 transmits its random numbers to the other machines and the rest bypass the normal random number generator and receive random data from the internet, and D) add administration data to temporarily pause a game if there is a network brownout. or frames out of sync all this with either a modified 2600 or a modern machine that plays 100% accurately 100% of 2600 games, (a real chip is probably the answer, no emulation, with a modern piggyback for dealing with those 4 factors above), we can build a Net-ari 2600. I've got the theory but my electronic skill is limited to cleaning dirty contacts on an old controller, and my programming skills are limited to a first semester college course. I need hep to do this. I either need $16,000 i funding or an electrical and programming hand to do this. Anyone interested, email me with your email and or US/Canada phone number, and well talk. My email is tripletopperATearthlinkDOTnet. If you're not smart enough to get an email address out of that string, then I don't know if you're the right person for me. I assume pretty much everyone reading this except most spambot computers can understand my email.
  10. By improving the signal, I mean stuff like plugging a composite video into a DVD and outputting that through HDMI. There's a digital delay and a upgrade, one of those alone would run the video game. Both of those combined, OUCH. If you want to record a light gun game through a DVD recorder or DVR, but want to play it with no lag (I.e. the Light Gun accurtely capturing the target) , do the following: 1) Buy 2-3 RCA Y-Cable adapters and appropriate sex changers if you cant find an exact match, and 2 extra sets of cables. 2) Plug the Video and audio out into the Y adapter. Plug the other 2 RCA cables in the DVD input and the direct TV input. 3) Start the DVD recording (make sure it's on the right DVD input) then turn to the direct TV input and play while watching the direct feed. The DVD might be a frame or less behind, but who cares, DVD's are for replays not for the original game, which you're watching on the direct feed. Unfortunately, you can't replay SegaScope 3D games because he sync is in the system, and the DVD recorder can't interact with the Master System.
  11. I heard every TV can play old Zapper/Segascope 3D game if you don't try to upgrade the signal, but program your TV to run S-Video, Composite, or RF analog in their appropriate resolution. Every modern TV has the ability to run analogue TV for low powered stations. To PLay 2600's you must switch out of digital TV mode and switch to analogue. It seems like most of the problems arise when to try to artificially improve the image. A Sony 32 inch LED screen is meant to be a gamer's screen, and according to Sony, there is a mode which accurately preserves the 480i mod, and the left-to right scanline mode. And Sony said it's common in most TV's, not just Sony's. Their advice is if you want to optical devices like light guns and SegaScope to work, running it as close to the original as possible gives the best results. It's sort of like a PS2's when playing PS1 games: Artificially improving loadtimes or polygons increase the chance for incompatibility. If you leave it at the native resolution (or only improve games that don't rely on Optics) your optical games should work fine.
  12. I'm no sure about Minidisc. I tried it with a Bally Astrocade, and the recording of the analog squelches in Bally Basic doesn't work well. Is it something wrrong with MiniDisc, or Bally Basic. Will I have a similar problem with Supercharger?
  13. In Choplifter, neither button works, and Xevious, the thumb button activates both guns and bombs simultaneously, and I changed the difficulty Switches, and it had no effect with the Quickshot, but the Joypad changed between independent and simultaneous guns and bombs. And I made sure I was in Atari Mode. I'm wondering if the Colecovision or the Bally Astrocade work in one of the modes. I'm thinking maybe MSX mode for Coleco, since I read that Colecovision was a console version of an MSX. Is a Bally most closely related to an Atari, a Commodore, and MSX, and Amstrad, or a Sega? Oh, by the way, Tower Toppler works with two joysticks plugged in, not one. But the Quickshot in port 1 was in 1-button mode, while the 7800 pad was in 2 button mode (at least I think it was in 2-button mode. I don;t know if Tower Toppler is a 1- or 2-button game)
  14. I checked the switch and it switched to the appropriate system, Sega with SMS, Atari for 7800. Xevious had one button work for both for the Quickshot, but the 7800 pad had separate firing and bombing, and the difficulty switches were not touched. By the way, the josytick was manufactured in 1991 when the Master System and 7800 were going out of style, so it should be 7800 compatible. And I know that in any mode, it reverts to one button mode if you put the wrong system in, (7800 stick in SMS system or vice versa, Colecovision stick in either system, or vice versa) and one-button mode is universal (except for Bally Astrocade). Also Tower Toppler does not work with either joystick, it always skips screens and doesn't let me control the game with either joystick in joyport 1.
  15. On 2 Button games for the Atari 7800 (Choplifter, Karateka, One on One) The Quickshot Python 1, which says works for Atari, MSX/Coleco, Amstrad and Sega, works for my Sega Master System in SMS Mode, but in Atari mode playing the 7800, Choplifter butons don't work, and Xevious has one button operate both fire and bomb. I had problems on both an American version and a European version. I have yet to try it for my Colecovision. And I was wonder if the Amstrad mode would work for the Bally Astrocade, or is the Bally a fifth "9-pin" format controllerwise? I think it might be a mechanical problem, because one button has a wire pop out after I cleaned it, and even though the buttons didn't work, the game One on One worked except for the fact tha the butttons didnt work. Since this is close to the button mechanism, I'm assuming he circuit is working correctly, but buttons cannot be fired. If the circuit didn't work then the game would be messed up. Just looking for some advise on how to get a quickshot, (a far more comfortable stick than the ro-line) working on my 7800.
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