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Everything posted by tripletopper

  1. I'm not saying definitely put them in two different divisions. I'm saying if one has an obvious advantage and no obvious disadvantage there MAY be a case of placing the lower score in a separate category. however usually the achiever of that goal declares that as a stipulation for that particular title. Like "blindfolded Mike Tyson.". The achiever self-segregates that record. I know MAME and real arcade hardware are separate categories, as well as separate home versions, sub-categorized by real consoles vs emulated ones. some people could say that you have to use slightly different strategies for stock controller Missile Command versus trackball controller Missile Command. Since stock controller Missile Command requires a precise hand to go quickly from one portion of the screen to the other in a frame, versus trakball Missile Command where you can't instantly warp your cursor from one point to another you have to roll the ball there, (Granted it's a fairly fast roll but it may be more controlled and more precisely hit if it takes time to get there versus instantaneous pinpoint point-to-point movement) a strategy in stock control Missile Command would be the exactly hit the point shoot a missile and go immediately to the next Point quickly, where is Trakball Missile Command you have to plan your route more carefully.) And Dreadnought Factor you could go at 141% of your vector speed if you use diagonals versus Cardinals using a digital joystick that doesn't compensate for the circular restrictor. But with the analog you have more directions you could go in so it's not just a cardinal or diagonal but many directions in between. There's also a possibility that the best stock stick score can't do well with the trackball and vice versa. like for example when Street Fighter 2 tournaments were mainly in the arcade, I wouldn't do well because they all have left-handed controllers. Also isn't the whole point of Defender to have very complex controls like a supposedly real starship? Changing thrust and reverse to left and right changes the mechanics of operating the ship and therefore is not different enough than any other typical shooter at the time. When most people think of Defender in the arcade they think of the complex layout.
  2. You need to carry a controller toolbox with: 1.5200 stock stick with worn out self centering. 2. Either a stock stick with good centering OR both a PC flight stick and a Bohoki adapter. 3. A digital solution 4. A Proline Trakball 5. A twin stick cradle and a second stick. Most games have obvious high score advantages. If there are 2 ways to do it, should be placed in separate divisions. (Like Dreadnaught Factor, with a Diagonal Speed Boost on digital controllers vs analog's 360 degree controller) Which controller gets high scores with Missile Command. A Trakball has a lot of players having to use muscle memory, vs the absolute control on a stock pad, which are better once mastered, but are very hard to master. (Forget it if centering resistance fights back) Because Missile Command uses absolute analog on stick, and relative analog on trackball, you play with those fundamentally differently. I know trackball is more true to the "spirit of the game". Which has the highest scores at the top? Which has the highest average? Should they be separate high score divisions with this difference? Any other games with this radical of a difference?
  3. I'm trying THIS combination for a Digital 5200 joystick. 1. A PCB-fight stuck where you add a console's hacked PCB to make it work (or for the 2600, Astrocade, and Master System, a direct point to point actuation.) 2. A 15-Pin PC "NES STYLE" 2 button pad to be pad-hacked for a project box, an alternate name for a naked joysticks and the wearable PCBs as it's clothing. 3. A @Bohoki 15 pin PC to Atari 5200 converter. Speaking of which, I got one Bohoki Adapter years ago, and would prefer a second one if this set up works. Since we only have 2 sticks by the end, all I need is one more Bohoki. But they are probably in limited supply. I want to eventually get one, but only if this works and if other people had a reasonable chance to get one. How is the Bohoki shop going, Bohoki? Have some extra adapters that I can buy one of and not empty the shelves?
  4. if those are self-centering analog controls then you got everything a proper 5200 needs, either a left-handed, right-handed or two-handed joystick that centers properly, with two action buttons and a keypad. (Can the buttons be reversed for games like tutankham, with a left and right fire? If using index to index mapping, one of the 2 hands would be backwards for tutankham.)
  5. To quote Scotty from Star Trek 3: the more they overthink the plumbing, the easier it is to stop the drain. The 5200 joystick was Atari overthinking the plumbing. I always assumed the 5200 controllers were DESIGNED as non self centering joysticks ( only hearing horror stories until I picked up one on a Ken Awesome thrift trip, ) for use with Kaboom and Super Breakout and Star Wars Arcade. It turned out to be an accident from a poor centering mechanism that broke.
  6. 1. You're right. I though I saw a SCART on one side and a VGA on the other ... and there were no pictures of the other side except disassembled which is too small for VGA. relative to SCART. 2. Luckily, I can convert HDMI to VGA. So it's SCART to HDMI to VGA. Let's hope with my new knowledge of OBS only accepting one video source per USB input that this will work. Now I'm better able to fix OVS problems. Also unplugging and replugging USB helps too, but forces you to redefine OBS video sources every broadcast
  7. I agree that platformers would suck with non-self-centering. So would any game where the stick indicates where you go. Either fight stick or 15 Pin PC controller with Bohoki adapter. But games where the stick indicates where you are, like Kaboom, and Missile Command, are the games the 5200 stick are designed for. Those buttons suck . Strange that your x axis broke on the left of center. But not right. Try disassbling and rebuilding it?
  8. I found on on StoneAgeGamer.com and Retrotink.con direct sells them too
  9. Two things about the super actio controller. On one of my four controllers, winky could go north, Winky could go west , but Winky could not go Northwest. Is that a sign to replace the octopus piece? The second thing is I remember best electronics making forever 5200 buttons with a mod that always make sure your buttons connect. I'm surprised no one's tried that for the clickovision super extra controllers some sort of mod that make the buttons work better. I heard to adequately clean them you have to take them apart real bad and for the price of hiring someone to take them apart I'd rather have someone mod them so that regular maintenance cleanings are no longer needed.
  10. The potentiometers I don't think ever broke. It was those Space Age buttons that don't feel substantial both the 5200 buttons and the super action controller buttons for the ColecoVision always had problems. Best Electronics made a forever button mod but the joystick is relatively reliable, assuming you assemble it correctly. Also I thought of another use for that bohoki adapter you got for your PC joystick. I'm hoping you could pad hack an NES Style PC 15 pin joystick and hook it up to a "naked" fight stick and you have a digital joystick for the Atari 5200 for games where you when you absolutely positively have to be neutral at a certain time. Plus I found cheap 15-pin PC joysticks that I could use for those analog games where it's good to self-center.
  11. Post 6 in this chain, from GoldenWheels. About that was a typo... It supposed to be Kaboom. Actually Kaboom, Star Wars Arcade Missile Command, and Super Breakout, all work well with a non-self-centering controller. I admit it's not a dial but a non-self-centering stick for those games is better than a self-centering stick for those games . And I was bringing up a way you could bring the paddle feel of the original 2600 panel controllers (kinda, it's the most important thing is a dial that does not recenter) on the PlayStation 4 and Xbox One versions of Atari Flashback. I know there's three volumes on PlayStation and Xbox but the Switch is one collection and the "paddle games" are distributed throughout all 3 game collections.
  12. Actually it was an attempt to combine a paddle and a joystick in One controller but also turn a one-dimensional paddle into a two-dimensional one. Except literally for Warlords, Breakout, Kaboom, and Star Wars Arcade, I see no purpose for a non-self-centering stick. But that was Atari's logic at the time from where I see it. The intellivision use the 16 ways to simulate a paddle by rotating your finger on the paddle. The Colecovision had the Speed Wheel that wasn't used until the Super Action Controller. You could see the direction in the industry was going in at that time. Later we found out it was directly into a brick wall.
  13. May I either see or can you describe what is not good about Edladdin's ambidextrous layout. I want to give my aspiring-professional analysis once I see it. Is it a vertical layout, in which case I described that problem literally 30 minutes ago. Something else I'll talk about later as I see it.
  14. another weird problem was that most of the games that were made for the 5200 were mainly arcade games and the "base controller" you got was an analog controller with no self-centering. Why was it not self-centering? because that was perfect for games like Warlords and Super Breakout, and Kabion and similar games where you have to "dial a position". And they expanded it from being one-dimensional to two-dimensional. I prefer the 5200 controller for Missile Command because it has that dial a position mode where you can just point to where you want relative to the screen instead of relative to where you are currently, and get there inside. the trackball takes time to get to where you need to go, even though it is a very quick time, it's still greater than one frame. Actually that's a problem with modern controllers is if you're trying to play the Atari collection you can't play Warlords or breakouts the way you're supposed to because you're fighting the self-centering. Wired up Retro, a YouTube channel I follow, recommends buying one of those steering wheel controllers for the PlayStation 4 Xbox One, and do not "sand down" one of these teeth gears if you want the wheel to stay in place for games like Warlords Break out in kaboom. If you want one, they're like 10 bucks on eBay, though they don't make one for the Switch yet.
  15. I can explain how it's on topic: this post list were talking about the verticalness of the 5200 controller which was similar to the intellivision and ColecoVision. And I was talking about the primary purpose of verticality was ambidexterity but the side effect was holding the controller building your muscles and making ambidextrity a requirement to succeeding well if you play a marathon session. That was my legitimate segue into SinisterSticks. By the way, I was trying to be polite by putting most of the stuff that was associated with the Sinister Sticks that is well published on Atari Age in the "hidden comments" so that if you read them before you don't have to read them again. I thought that was a way to politely say this is babbling a little off topic but if you're interested click. If not don't. Most of the comments that are not hidden in spoilers are pretty new from me and most relevant to the topic give-and-take. @doubledown , would you like to take that back under that light?
  16. Hello I had myself a Retrotink SCART to ypbpr converter, and it worked fine. However some capture cards were having trouble with 240p YCbCr. I traded it for a Retro Tink SCART to VGA line doubler. It'll be in the mail by next week. I noticed the PlayStation 2 and GameCube have problems with interlaced video. Luckily of all the games tested, only 19 out of like 300+ games for the Xbox Prime were "interlaced only.". That's how I found out that my VGA CRT monitor doesn't do interlaced video first of all I should I assume that the Hauppauge Rocket, when just used as a video converter, only converts the physical form of the video from composite, S-Video, and component, to HDMI, but the display mode and resolution remain the same? Second does the Hauppauge Rocket do 240p via S-Video which I heard is a possibility of S-Video? And does the rocket have problems with 240p via 3 RCA ypbpr? Third. If I play my Master System, Sega Tower of Power, Sega Saturn Sega Dreamcast and Super NES model 1, which could all accept scarred without modding the system, does either the Retrotink device convert any interlaced video into progressive or is there something in the internal chips of those systems and assume that if SCART is being used that progressive video will always be outputted. In other words if a game is in interlaced mode for any of those systems, will it not work on the Retrotink? Now question about the GameCube Wii and Wii U. If the Wii U is in 720p will we games that are normally in 480i get "progressivized" (de-interlaced). If I play GameCube games on the Wii, will the Wii deinterlace all GameCube games or only run ones with a native progressive mode? I know about the operating system being in progressive mode on the Xbox Prime just press both analog sticks in and triggers down and hold it down like a second or two to switch between progressive and interlaced. I also noticed weird artifacts on my PlayStation 3D TV that when Legend of Zelda Wind Waker was in 480p, the PlayStation 3 TV had gobbledygook in places that were normally black picture, like a transparency code or something. just wondering if there's going to be any weird behaviors dealing with a VGA CRT monitor that doesn't have an interlace mode By the way, when converting HDMI to VGA, my CRT beat my PlayStation 3D TV by one frame. Guess which one I'm playing my modern games on?
  17. You have to understand what was going on in the minds of video game makers at the time with vertical controls. The Intellivision and Colecovision had similar designs, vertical controllers exist to address the problem of ambidexterity The new problem it introduced was arm asymmetry where your arms were in two different positions to manipulate the joystick and the buttons. That's why most fight sticks are considered arm symmetric. Of course they gave up ambidexterity to allow for that. The joke is the reason the reason why those controllers CAN be either left or right-handed is because in a marathon record breaking session of a game, it'll eventually HAVE TO BE alternately left-handed and right-handed. Using my muscles to actually hold the joystick and then the arm asymmetry makes those ambidextrous arm-asymmetric pre-crash controllers a workout. throughout my life I've been trying to find a right-handed fight stick ever since be sure went out of business and no one made a six button right-handed joystick. A lot of things are printed on my website sinistersticks.com.and to avoid scrolls to text I'm going to box the rest where you only open if desired.
  18. Speaking of the Coin Controls. I notice in the 5200 version (a great thrift store pickup in the '90s I might say.) that the left button is the bottom Fire button or main fire button and the right button is the auxiliary button or top fire button. First of all, is there a button swap switch somewhere in the user-friendly world of not opening the machine? Second, is there a way to do it with electronic surgery? 3 would a way to do it without your joystick being operated on be as simple as inserting a female to male 15 pin which just swaps the one for the bottom button and the top button if you wanted to left hand at joystick assuming you want your main fire on your right thumb? Also was there a version of a 5200bgame that has distinct left and right fire that isn't the twin stick game that could also use that kind of substitution similar to Tutankham? I know the default Atari controller could handle it you just adjust your hand grip so that the index is on the Main and the thumb is on the auxiliary.
  19. I never said the "Dragon Punch" website was an authority on cd cleaning. I went to them because that's where people go to learn how to build custom fight sticks. I wanted to buy one. I need to have a right handed fight stick. They've had it out for me when I challenged the notion that left stick is pro-player, when I say left stick is pro-arxade owner. The fact that I didn't trust them is the precise reason why I wrote you guys. I suspected they were lies, which you guys confirmed. Thank you.
  20. Thanks for confirming what I know: Don't use "rubbing alcohol". If you use alcohol, use only xx% isopropylhol with the only other ingredient being water.
  21. 1. there are versions of "rubbing alcohol" which have herbs. 2. Since my 70% Isopropylhol has as it's only other ingredient water, that's what I assume too. 3. Easy statement to accept don't need double guessing. This lie at the dragon punch website says herbs are hidden. I tried to see if it was confirmed. Now if you guys also said herbs can be legally hidden, I'd try to ask my pharmacist, which said "just read the label. If the label lies, especially on a mass basis, you have a legitimate grievance." 4. My default position was to "read and believe the label". The dragon punch website said "herbs can be legally hidden in isopropylhol." I knew since I challenged their "left hand sticks are superior for everyone" lie, I'd be an unintentional villain at the dragon punch website. At least I have the "the more sympathetic position" and the role of the underdog. The stuff good feel-good movies are made of.
  22. Sorry. I misread your comment at first. The fact that "rubbing alcohol" contains something other than alcohol and water, and to not use that, is fairly well documented on cartridge cleaning and optical disc cleaning instructions . The other "facts" is only on that one website. I'm "encoding" the name of a website where I heard it. Before there were 2 types: "rubbing alcohol" which was 70% alcohol some water and some herbs, and 91% isopropylhol, whose only other ingredient is water. I'm just trying to figure out if it has herbs or not. I assume with the name "70% isopropylhol" and the only inert ingredient being water, I assume it's diluted stuff, not the mix. The same dragon punch (code name) website is trying to convince me that a right handed fight stick would not improve execution in Street Fighter 2. Read my story about that. sinistersticks.com
  23. It's not the strength so much. I just spray and wipe. It's not so much an issue of strength as it is purity. It's the ingredients other than the alcohol and water that have me concerned. "70% rubbing alcohol" was, pre-Covid, the name for the kind which has extra herbs. The dragon punch website conspiracy is that "the herbs are unlabeled, because they are not required to be labeled." I think they think I'm gullable. I asked my pharmacist "If herbs are added to a rubbing alcohol, must they be listed on the ingredients list? My discs are allergic to herbs in certain rubbing alcohols that are not in isopropylhol.". And he said everything should be listed. So the 70% isopropylhol is a new sevondary Covid phenomenon.
  24. The other stuff called "rubbing alcohol" also has pain killing herbs. If you run across that, that will DAMAGE electronic equipment. There was a conspiracy on the "dragon punch" website saying that "rubbing alcohol" and "70% isopropylhol" both have the herbs and by law don't have to list the herbs as ingredients. If I need to clean something with it, I'll say to irreparable <$3 disc or cartridge game on eBay, "you first". Do not do Red Sea Crossing (if I had such a cartridge, which I don't)
  25. Ever since Covid-19, every grocery store, department store, and pharmacy I went to don't have 91%. I'm trying to find out if the 70% is a diluted version of the 91%, or an alternate name for rubbing alcohol with painkilling herbs. The only inert ingredient is Water. also is this unique to Medina County Ohio or are other people in a similar situation of running out of 91% isopropyl and being given the 70% stuff. NEW STUFF (above was in phone memory). First of all the strength is not that important, the more important thing is lack of foreign ingredients to the recipe of isopropyl. Since the bottle has as it's only inert ingredient water, should that indicate that this is pure alcohol water mix just a little diluted. also I should look for small print under where it says alcohol to see if there's other ingredients that would be considered active like painkilling herbs. Look at the fine print. If I see something indicating something other than alcohol then I should bail. Is this unique to Medina County, Ohio that has 70% isopropyl not 91%? Is this like a county Covid law or something because apparently I can't find 91 stuff locally. I got a couple of unplayably scratched copies that I tried to repair and failed I could use is a litmus test as to whether it's just pure alcohol or alcohol plus herbs. Will the foreign ingredients eat at the disc or do something obviously noticeable? does it cost three bucks to repair them versus finding them use three bucks on eBay might as well use it as a petri dish.
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