tripletopper

August 18, 2023

I got an update to this situation.

Recently I tried using a one millisecond TN monitor.

When I wear the Sega scope helmet the screen is totally filtered out yet I could see the outside world like the clock below my television.

When I tried it earlier, when I was going from component to HDMI through a Retrotink 2x Pro M, and then converting it to VGA with a typical unpowered Amazon purchased HDMI to VGA converter and when I used a CRT VGA, when I looked at it through the goggles, it come out in 3D.

For some reason I could capture it if I use my 15 frame per second camera as both eyes on the left eye and right eye, which by Minuro cameras are.

But if I use my SQ11s which is 30 frames a second and cannot be dialed back to 15 frames per second, and I don't get any picture at all I just get a black capture.

Probably tomorrow when I bring up the CRT TV I'm going to try to test that theory by redoing that test.

They said that there's something about the TN technology that gets filtered out by the Sega glasses that the CRT does not get filtered out through.

Just wondering if anyone's got any thoughts on that.

Also wondering is this enables my theory that if I used my Sony PlayStation 3D glasses and somehow timed the blink so that it's 31 milliseconds behind if the alternate left right of the Sega Master System 3D could be timed correctly with the PlayStation 3D TV.

August 10, 2023

I understand certain systems are more popular than certain other systems and usually get more topics talked about and the primary focus is Atari made systems.

When there are more generations of systems available the line gets fuzzy between classic and modern.

For example I don't know where PlayStation 2 fits in this or the Xbox Prime (for lack of a better term since Xbox seeded the name Xbox One to its third console.)

I think having an individual category for each generation is kind of redundant because some generation gaps are bigger than others like for example the pre crash and the post crash video game errors or radically different in terms of the market and in terms of game style. More so than the difference between say 8-bit and 16-bit games.

I guess since Atari age is primary focus is Atari (though you guys help in other consoles, maybe the there should be three strata, the pre crash which talks about the stuff before the original Atari company went out of business. Then the 7800 Lynx and Jaguar era, and then the post Atari console era. 20 years from now the Neo VCS (what else are you supposed to call us to differentiate it from the 2600?) Would define a fourth strata that goes from the non Atari years to the VCS years.

We just need a better way to classify stuff that already doesn't have a big category, and ask, what era we should put it in? Since I want to post about the Xbox Prime and the Playstation 2 on a topic right now, that would be post Jaguar, pre neo VCS.

PS2 and Xbox Prime are really hard pick as to whether they're considered classical modern games under this strata.

July 30, 2023

Hey there, lost monkey. Do you have a video showing what's involved on turning a hardwired Odyssey 2 into a DB9 based Odyssey 2 where you could use either the real Odyssey 2 DB9 joysticks or attach a sadgirlsrecords adapter to the DB9?

On 7/27/2021 at 3:05 PM, Lost Monkey said:

I ended up making "permanent" adapters for my hardwired O2. I now have short (maybe 6") plugs coming out the back of the O2, into which all manner of Atari 2600 compatible controllers may be connected.

July 30, 2023

Yes sadgirlrecords does have good customer and will send me the Astrocade adapters in the mail on Monday and I can keep the Odyssey 2 ones.

I should get it by Friday or sooner.

So you would say the intellivision ribbon slot is easier for an average person to work with than the Odyssey 2 version of the ribbon slot.

I have successfully flashback modded my Intellivision 1. So much so that I sold my INTV 1 controllers and have Flashback ones instead.

Now I got to email Intellivisionairies to see if they could make a INTV2 controller to INTV FB machine, because I have flashback modded my intellivision whenever I get a RetroGameBoys Controller PCB.

As for the Odyssey 2, may I know what the ribbon standard of a hardwired O2 is? I think I can have someone a ribbon to DB9 and a DB9 to ribbon for the O2. If I'm going to have an expert build such a cable. They might as well install it too.

May I also have a pin mapping on both the DB9 and ribbon ends?

July 29, 2023

Hello I recently tried to buy an Atari to astrocade joystick connector from sadgirlrecords.com. The good news is it came quick the bad news is he/she accidentally sent Atari to Odyssey connectors instead.

Now I do have a hardwired Odyssey 2, and I know from previous experience that an intellivision one could technically be either intellivision too modded or intellivsion flashback modded to accept outside joysticks with a extra long cable that peaks outside the innards of the machine.

I'm not exactly the most handy person but I was able to do a flashback modding of an intellivision one.

Since I already have an odyssey 2, I was wondering, is there a certain wire you could buy and a certain operation you could do on your Odyssey 2 to let it accept pluggable Odyssey 2 controllers and then from there I could use the Atari to Odyssey adapter to plug in my Atari controller?

I believe these things are made one-by-one and it would not help to take it back. With shipping and hassles of returning and thoughts that I could use this eventually anyway so might as well keep the Odyssey to adapter if it happens to be useful.

July 15, 2023

I bet some comedic hacker could replace Doh with a giant Homer Simpson head that says "Doh" every time he's hit during the boss battles

July 9, 2023

I think I finally figured it out. I don't know how the Virtual Boy originally did it by moving the left and right eyes relative to your face. But I assumed that if you could ship the picture to the left or to the right that that would do the same thing. Well taking two of those VGA to composite converters, setting the converter controls for extreme red and cyan, and then shifting the left AKA Red screen 8 units to the right and shifting the right AKA science screen eight units to the left I get the perfect stereoscopic merger. The number of units you have to actually move both ways might be different for the individual person involved.

I would like to know what a "unit" is on my VGA to composite converting devices, (thankfully both the same brand) whether that's one pixel or one whatever hundredth of a screen or one what.

July 9, 2023

When looking at a standardized test pattern that's typically on television stations like the one I'm going to download in the attachments I notice I get something weird when I close one eye or the other. When I close my right eye AKA my cyan I the red filter shows double doubly thick bars of alternating bars of alternating red and black.

When looking at it with my left eye AKA my red eye closed I get the following:

White yellow white yellow blue black blue.

If that's the case then my filters are properly made in the right frequencies of light, and now my issue is tuning the VGA to Composite tuners correctly. I want to rule out that I have faulty filters before I continue.

By the way a pair that I thought was faulty and is actually a red and blue pair and the blue eye has alternating white yellow white yellow x red x where x is kind of like a grayish purplish shade. I knew these glasses weren't pure red and cyan but were some cheap garbage filter that's not quite blue.

July 9, 2023

Based on my test it looks like the red in the virtual boy is not a pure red but has either some green or blue slightly mixed in.

The reason why I say that is because there are some boxes which are slightly lighter that normally house the cyan boxes that is not the same color as a black background. Maybe it's because the whiteness brings out all three colors simultaneously.

I just want to make sure that the red in Virtual Boy is a pure red and contains no green and blue. If I know that's true, then I could work on the assumption that it's my VGA to composite video converters that are not working right.

July 9, 2023

Actually I got two separate sources from the two separate eyes of the Virtual Boy both go to VGA connections so it should be pure red and cyan on the left and right respectively.

However they get pulled through composite video converters. I know the composite video converters have certain settings. The VGA to composite converters are only used for the virtual boy so in theory I could set it and forget it once I get it right.

You said the brightness settings and the saturation setting.

I think the brightness only says how much combined red green and blue there is so I probably turn down the brightness to minimize the non-existent color.

Saturation is part of a lumo chroma separation how much chroma intensity is there compared to Luma.

The problem is the only two colors I'm literally dealing in are red and cyan.

The Virtual Boy only has black and white images which I'm dying black and red in the left eye and black and cyan in the right eye.

Is there a way I could test the Red and Cyan. Is that way I could get a color bar test pattern I know that those standard test patterns show all 8 base colors (KRYGCBMW)

So if I close my right eye and put the red in the left the red should be red and the neighboring yellow and magenta should also be white and the green cyan and blue should be all black if my logic is correct on this.

Similarly, the Cyan should block the red light in Red Magenta and Yellow.

Keep in mind I could control both eyes independently.

For the left eye will be the best way to turn up the red and turn down the green and blue.

Similarly, for the right eye, what would be the best way to turn up the green and blue and turn down the red.

If only those two eyes were perfectly in sync if they were I could just merge them with pin-pulled VGA dongles.

Is there a way I could take the red of the left and the green and blue the right and merge them with a Y cable? I noticed when I try merging them with a modified Y cable one of the eyes move but if I put it straight in it says too much for the monitor to pick up. It has something to do with the horizontal syncs, and how the virtual tap reads each eye line for line alternately left eye right eye.

July 4, 2023

I found searching the internet this one place called sadgirlrecords.com

What would interest the classic video game Community is that she can make on demand Atari to Astrocade controller converters (works for the joystick only. No paddle games will work with this.) As well as Atari to Odyssey 2 converters.

Obviously for the Odyssey converters you need an odyssey with detachable controllers.

I literally just ordered 5 minutes ago. It'll get here by Friday and I'll see if my fight stick works with an Edladdin Seagull 78, and assuming it's just a pure physical wire rerouting connector with no circuits in the middle, it should hook straight up to an Astrocade no problem.

I'll update you in a week when I get it.

July 4, 2023

I use 2 virtual taps to get a true stereoscopic view of the game.

I run the left eye in black and red mode, the right eye in black and cyan mode, and I am not getting images that are quite right.

I'm not sure my glasses are filtering out the other side completely. When I close my left eye, the reds seem to be perfectly fitlered out, but when I close my right eye I see evidence of the right eye in the left, which throws off the 3d effect.

I know there can be 2 possible reasons why the L/R balance is thrown off, one is lack of perfect color filtering, the other is left right misalignment on a 2d screen.

Which should be corrected first, my tv, my glasses, or my L/R alignment.

BTW my 2 VGA to Composite devices do have editing features like 2D placement, zoom in/out controls, color/display controls, etc. Is the best first step to make sure the color filters are correctly filtering out the other side?

June 20, 2023

I said I'd rather give it to someone who I know who use it than to pay to dump it.

And as I said I'm keeping the 24-inch Sony Vega with composite components S-Video.

Also I think we may have found enough room to keep both of our other CRT TVs.

And yes the 24-in does fit in my room so that would be the primary TV I play my light gun and Sega Scope games on.

Just a question, what would be a better secondary TV for the downstairs, a 20-in Sony Wega, with no S-Video but then again we sold our laser disc player so the need for S-Video is lessened, or my 20-in Daewoo with S-Video composite and component but then again most likely most people consider it a lesser brand than Sony, though I heard some people say they consider it a superior brand.

Maybe if I get an oem Daewoo remote control I could fix what's wrong with it by accessing the repairman's mode.

I guess considering the fact that all I have is VHS and beta downstairs and the tv is mostly going to be used as a second movie place then probably the Sony 20 inch would be a better pick for the secondary TV.

June 17, 2023

For all this talk about paying I found that I am perfectly happy playing most video games even retro video games on a one millisecond modern HDMI monitor, because for literally everything except like gun games and Sega Master System Sega scope games if you're guaranteed one millisecond of ping that is usually good enough for all the games except the above mentioned.

Now I feel I have less need to hoard CRT TVs. (If you count owning four in your house is hoarding)

But I'm considering dropping the number and need to decide which two I should keep.

The one I definitely want to get rid of is a compact CRT VGA monitor and it can actually be carried by one person without requiring a spotter.

Now That I found I have enough room where I want to put it I want to keep the 24 inch Sony Wega flat CRT with composite components and S-Video inputs.

The two of them having trouble choosing between is a 20-inch Wega with no S-Video, versus a 20-in Daewoo CRT with component composite and S-Video.

I understand that most places charge you to dispose of CRTs. So I thought maybe if you could help me move a few CRTs around you could take one as a reward for helping me move stuff around and lift. It's better than paying what else to move and dispose your TV and it's a lot cheaper for you than eBay to pick up a crtv with a little labor in it.

Since I said I'm literally using this only for light gun games and Sega Scope game, I need help deciding which of the two iffy models is better.

All my other classic games I could play easily through a Retrotink 2X Pro M and not feel any effects of significant ping.

However when I try to use a retro tank SCART2COMP, I noticed a slight pull to the right on the gun. My brother compared a direct input versus the scar to comp and he felt a pull to the right on the gun.

The systems I have gun games for are the 7800 the NES the Master System the Genesis Super NES the Saturn the PlayStation 1 the Dreamcast the PlayStation 2 and the Xbox Prime.

PS2 (and via extension the PS1) and Xbox Prime could be handled easily by both TVs with Component. Every other system before the Saturn could easily be handled by both TVs because they have composite.

The only two system issues would be with Saturn and Dreamcast.

Saturn is best natively with S-Video or RGB however RGB is only expressed on the Saturn with start and the SCART2COMP adapter pulls the gun a little to the right.

The Dreamcast could be expressed as a VGA. How have I heard certain games have problems with VGA. Which makes the highest guarantee format the S video again.

Obviously keeping the 24 inch Sony is a no-brainer because that has all three components that is considered the best brand of CRT.

How are the question becomes do I keep as a backup to 20 inch Sony with no S-Video or the 20 in Daewoo unsure of the quality of the Daewoo brand.

I've heard back in the day, people saying Daewoo was considered slightly better than Sony but a lot rarer back in that day.

I've also heard people say they pay no more than a standard CRT for a Component Daewoo from people who buy CRTs to sell the people in Retro Gaming places.

So the main question is is it better to play Saturn and Dreamcast like gun games on a S-Video connection though it may be an inferior TV to the Sony or is it better to play on the better brand which will assume is Sony even though it's only composite?

Seriously we don't have two strong people in the house to carry around a CRT TV up and down one flight of steps. So I'll trade labor help for a CRT. I know it will go to a good home if I recruit here. I know it won't hit the garbage pile if ai summon help here.

BTW I live in Medina County Ohio, one county southwest of the county that contains Cleveland so you can check if you're geographically close enough.

April 27, 2023

Right now there is a small company called RetroGameBoyz.com , who is currently designing various control schemes for the intellivision if you either have an intellivision 2, or an Intellivision 1 with an INTV 2 adapter.

It's supposed to let you play four way and 8-way games on an Intellivision and teams up with the keyboard in a way that acts like the regular INTV control set.

I'm currently showing interest.

The only thing they can't do well is a 16-way joystick.

I know enough about the intellivision controller scheme to know that it's not an easy thing to do to either make a 16-way joystick or to make it interface with the intellivision well.

I was thinking of using a PC 15 joystick because that was analog. I understand the basic technique would be to divide the whole analog range into 16 wedges and one bullseye, and then convert those into digital 16-way joystick using the Intellivision logic.

Also other than the disc, I have no idea how a 16-way fight stick could be constructed.

I know on fightsticks, 2 primary directions combined the form secondary directions. It would be a very complex and hard thing to do to turn a primary plus a secondary in between to be a tertiary.

I understand mechanically the intellivision disc just had 16 regions on the disc each encoded to a separate joystick code.

I don't know if converting a PC 15 joystick directly to intellivision joystick code by dividing it into 16 wedges and one bullseye would be low enough ping to make gameplay worth it.

Is there already a pre-existing item which lets you run a large stick that could be 16 ways for those Intellivision games?

Honestly I was never an Intellivision guy in my youth but as I grew older, I learned to appreciate some of these older systems better.

Originally I thought the NES d-pad was just a rehash of the Intellivision disc and thought it would go nowhere quick. And originally I thought it LOST functionality because you couldn't play it right-handed.

Shows what I knew.

It just sent my thumb is too imprecise to really play these thumb pads well.

That's why I move most of my gameplay to large handheld sticks.

Though it might not be good for fighting game purists, I think I got an analog joystick working in a arcade panel size format by using an Xbox Adaptive controller.

Just wanted to see if there was any pre-existing stuff that let you run a PC 15 joystick as a 16-way plus neutral Intellivision control interface.

By the way Retro Game Boyz did do a good job with their Genesis to 5200 adapter. I can play any digital 5200 game with my fight stick set on Genesis mode. (Maybe except the games that have run time errors when x squared + y squared is greater than 100% squared. Qix is an example of one of them.)

April 19, 2023

According to the Brooke website they do not support the turbo grafx 16.

However I tried my Cthulhu on a turbo grafx 16 with the appropriate PC engine to turbo graphics controller converter and it does work properly with Splatterhouse.

I assume it's just a physical pin remapping and there's no circuitry needed to make a conversion. If that's the case, then the Brook adapter does work with a turbo grafx 16.

April 19, 2023

I noticed when I was streaming a couple days ago Splatterhouse that the colors seemed to me to be off. I got a full color picture that was altered when you pulled the CB and CR cables from the YCbCr connection.

I use a ycbcr adapter that's made for the PC engine. I guess it was sold that way so it could be sold to more machines because the back pins could also be used for the turbo graphics but if not plugged in right there could be distorted colors.

I understand the Turbo Grafx has more pins in the back than the PC engine.

Is there such a thing as a PC engine power booster to Turbo graphics console adapter?

It is it would be going in the exact opposite direction of the hyperkin adapter that lets you plug a US HDMI adapter into a PC engine.

Just wondering if one exists and what the price of one of them is. I assume it's just a physical fitting pin swap adapter at the most complex.

April 4, 2023

Had a problem with 30 Hertz cameras always capturing on the left eye closed because I saw a picture with no red in it.

So I thought get some 15 Hertz cameras and I'll be able to capture both eyes accurately.

I did and both eyes capture.

I think the Sega Master System 3D uses 240p * 15 frames * 2 eyes alternating. If so that would explain why some cameras are too fast to capture the Sega Master System Sega Scope 3d.

Last night I did a little footage on Twitch. Go to twitch.tv/tripletopper and look for the footage that was captured after midnight today (April 4 2023) New York time during the overnight.

Btw, use red and cyan glasses and see if the 3d effects are good.

I can do a full color version. But it requires a 32x9 version and cooperation from 2d viewers to zoom into one eye.

I'm hoping someonr can build a live Twitch converter tk from Google Cardboard to 3dtv (16x9 SBSH) 2d (left eye or right eye) and monochromeized anaglyph (red and cyan).

April 3, 2023

Hello. I know this is the Sega Master System high score list but there's no general Sega Master System category so I assume stuff pertaining to the SMS that's not high scores would be welcome to since it has no separate forums.

I know some people shoot cameras through the eyepiece of a camera to make a capture of a camera.

I got two working cameras about an inch apart and when I put a Sega Scope 3D glasses in front of the two lenses,for some strange reason it does not want to capture right.

The similar commando capture method of just taking two raw cameras and putting a filter in front of them namely 3d goggles did work for my PlayStation 3D TV as I captured Xbox 360 footage of Sonic Generations.

But Sega Scope footage is not capturing right.

It looks like it always captures the same instant on both cameras which is always closed on the red eye.

This makes me think it's an issue with all cameras on OBS sharing the same sync and the left eye which I die red in the test, to see if I could do an anaglyph, always seem shots because there's no red when I point the picture at it.

Also it seems like if you put the lens right up to the filter it doesn't quite look right but if you back it up maybe the width of a typical eyeglass it'll be the right distance where it'll focus. Should I mount some glssses frames in front in front of the dummy Sega scope (dummy by the fact that the arms of the Sega Scope earpieces are gone but the shutter mechanism still works) to give it the proper space it needs to apparently work.

Also wondering if there's a digital solution for that that'll automatically separate left and right eye frames. I know there's a program called bino3d, but the problem is it only works on pre-rendered footage and I'm trying to find something that works on live footage. Any ideas?

January 21, 2023

First I'd like to say I got a virtual boy consolized with two virtual taps or as I call it a virtual double tap. Each with a color adjustment so I leave the left eye at red and I put the right eye at cyan. And in theory I should get a monochrome anaglyph 3D image.

I am aware of the original Virtual Boy is a lot closer to your face than a typical tv and has an adjustment lever to deal with left/right centering correctly.

These are the results I got when I was streaming:

On the postage stamp size HDMI capture card when looking at the whole screen image, the 3D looks convincing it's not the whole 16x9 screen it's about a quarter of it and my monitor starts at 24 in but it's only a fraction of that picture showing other stuff on OBS that I could use to edit.

The 3D effects on that capture look convincing.

However when I play it on live TV on my Sony Wega CRT TV to minimize ping, I noticed that the 3D effects are off.

I got a couple options on my VGA to composite adapters. They have image adjustments where I could grow and shrink and shift vertically and horizontally the pictures.

I started it out with 5 minutes total electrical cut off reset and plugged it back in to clear all memory of previous settings.

On a 20-in CRT TV, being a meter away from the TV causes 3D distortion while I'm playing.

However if I move my chair back to 3 m the 3D looks more convincing however I don't have enough "rope" to get to 3 m and play at the same time.

I think because the Nintendo required so much adjustment on their end because it was so close and so big relative to your eyeballs based on how close it was, it seems anaglyph technology and 3D in general is optimized for a certain range to look best in 3D. I think that's why most video games ask you to tell the video game machine what size TV are you watching on, to do the 3D effects correctly.

I know the 3D adjustment scale was part of the Virtual Boy system.

It's a difference on a big screen really is a micro adjustment just like a close screen is on the original Virtual Boy, may I have some general strategies on how to optimize an anaglyph picture for a certain distance? Is it so minute that on a 3D capture card it will not matter much especially a resolution of 320 x 240, but on a CRT TV it does matter how you adjust it?

Also will adjusting for the CRT TV screw it up for the twitch broadcast?

Also how did the physical adjusters work on the Nintendo Virtual Boy? With a pivotal pointers that rotated your eyeball perspective in and out, or were they lateral sliders that shifted your perspective inward and outward?

Also I'm going to test a 10-in in car TV that's a CRT TV that I have from old times, and see if the 3D is better just due to the smaller scale. In fact I'll try that first before going to the adjusting of the screens.

Also everything looks to be in scale in 2D with one eye and the left and the right eye seem to agree with each other on capture card. Which controls should I adjust first if I plan to adjust horizontal sliding or growing / shrinking of the pictures? Which direction should I go: apart (red eye to the left, cyan eye to the right) or together? And what should I do first grow or shrink?

I know the second screen of the Nintendo Virtual Boy screen is an eye adjustment screen. What should ideally the screen look like if it was converted to right and cyan should it look like a 2d Virtual Boy and should the four corners make a perfect square in 2d and not a trapezoid or some other weird quadrilateral?

July 30, 2022

On 7/10/2022 at 6:25 AM, Atariboy said:

Hori & Hamster are in the early stages of developing a modular solution to the problem.

I see they got a trackball and a spinner but they don't have a limited radius paddle.

Also like the fact that they have an ambidextrous joystick there as well as a twin stick for robotron.

The other thing they need to complete it is a non-centering joystick for 5200 games on Atari Flashback 3 that are best with it like 5200 Missile Command

July 10, 2022

I would have been playing more Atari on the Xbox One ..

.

Except there are two reasons not to.

One is finding a random opponent to play on any one particular game that you want but being unable to generally pick any game to broaden your horizons and increase your likelihood of finding someone online.

The other is who could play Warlords with a thumbpad, or Tempest (original or 4000) with an analog thumbpad, or Centipede with a thumbpad (I could, but it's more of a cool factor more than basic performance) or missile command with a thumb pad?

Those first three games respectively need a limited turn radius paddle with no snapback to center, an unlimited turn radius spinner with no snapback, and a trackball. Missile command depends on where you learned it, whether it was in the arcade which I didn't or on the 2600 or on the 5200. Personally I prefer the 5200 control of a 2-axis joystick with no snapback that way you could dial an exact position without fighting a literal force throwing you off.

If the current Atari was smart they'd offer a deluxe package with everything you need to play the Atari games like you did back in the day meaning you get a limited turn radius paddle, or since Atari 2600 sold them like such. A pair of them, a spinner, a trackball and a no snapback joystick that's two dimensional.

You think the Nintendo Switch would be cheaper by using some plastic toy that you could insert the the joy-con in and have a virtual trackball, a virtual paddle, a virtual spinner, and a virtual 2D joystick with no snapback, with all the electronic movements supplied by the joy-con itself. Kind of like a toy con except an actual video game controller that works like that. Two of Nintendo toy cons were actually practical a steering wheel controller and 3D goggles. Unfortunately for the goggles you had to put your hands in front of your face like you're holding a picture instead of your hands being free to do everything.

But still what's the point of releasing these Atari games if you can't get the Atari controllers right.

Controllers today are so generic. I'm surprised there aren't more complaints about lack of paddles and spinners and trackballs and non centering joysticks for Atari compilations. Hell Nintendo made a Sega Genesis controller for the switch, unfortunately a three button controller so why not Atari-Style controllers for the switch?

April 20, 2022

In a one paragraph summary I have consolized Virtual Boy with 2 VGA connectors, a VGA connector, one of which has a holding screw unscrewed and was wondering if I could have the makeup of the screw to make sure A) I have all the right parts and B) my brother can assemble it correctly so that the VGA connector will stay on my virtual boy so that both eyes would work correctly.

The rest is a longer explanation and my plans with the consoleized virtual boy and a possible second consolized Virtual Boy. It's long small talk, and can be skipped for the main purpose of my question

Hopefully this could get done by this Thursday because I try to do on The third Thursday of every month, the Third Thursday in the Third Dimension on Twitch.

They both use VGA connectors. However one of the VGA connectors's side screws fell apart.

It's not the fault of the designer or the installer who I professionally hired. Half the reason it dell apart was because I was screwing and unscrewing the VGA cables a lot while I was experimenting on how to get an anaglyph picture out of two Virtual Boy eyes.

I was able to get it temporarily working. However the left eye had the VGA holding screw fall out. Do any soldering nor do I have the equipment to do it therefore I'd like to work in there and find a way to insert the VGA screw without it falling out.

Most of the diagrams of the VGA screw talk about the electronics of it. I'm looking for more of the assembly physics of it, namely the screw part.

I bought a pack of VGA screws and it came in two separate packages one with the threaded cylinder and a cap which holds. The VGA connector to ensure a tight secure hold.

And there was the second bag featuring light little hex things that fit inside along the screw they could fit either inside the hex cap or outside along the threaded screw.

Whether was through me forgetting to give my brother the piece or my brother assuming that was not an important piece, we didn't use any of the nuts.

Should I correctly assume that that was hex nuts are vital in keeping the VGA connector holders from unscrewing and falling off from the inside?

Regardless of whether the above statements is correct or not may I have some instructions on how to secure a VGA securing screw so that unscrewing the VGA cable will not undo the VGA cable.

Because this is not a factory original anyway, looks are secondary. I mainly concerned that I can plug in the left eye and not have to worry about whether it's loose or not.

By the way here are some information that I found that was very interesting.

In order to combine the left eye and the right eye, the cheapest thing that was available to me was an eBay-found Video titler with a VGA and composite/s-video input and a VGA and composite output.

The VGA outputs only outputs the VGA portion of the signal not the combined signal. You have to go to composite or S-Video after going through this titler to mix the signal in a way that combines L and R.

I noticed that directly I started with two vga's converted one to composite and whichever I had the composite was always one frame behind the one that was pure VGA.

If that is the case then I should assume my VGA to composite adapter has about one frame of ping.

If that's the case since I have to repair the VGA adapter anyway, maybe I should swap out the VGA adapter with a SNES video adapter port, whose cords I have extras of.

I was able to sync the two pictures by putting an EDID device in between the VGA input and the VGA output. However it seemed like the control was slightly sloppy.

Would one one VGA plus one SNES adapter be easily pluggable into this titling device mentioned above and have less ping because I'm subtracting both the ping of the EDID device and the VGA to composite converter?

I'm just seeing if my theory is sound.

I was thinking of making a second such headset if I could find an equally suitable titler and either so it on eBay or make it a grand prize for winning an online Street Fighter 2 tournament. In honor of Hyper Fighting which was recently released as a retro ROM on the Virtual Boy.

I know there's an online version of hyper fighting on the PlayStation 4 Nintendo switch and Xbox One version of Street Fighter 30th Anniversary.

I heard a virtual single tapped consolized Virtual console already made and proven working is worth about $900 on ebay. It would probably be worth even more if it was double tapped plus I provided the equipment that I used to get them to merge as an anaglyph 3d red and cyan pair.

What do I value more pure cash ,or web fame? Considering I'm on Social Security disability and would risk losing it if I make consistent income, plus while I was in high school I hosted a local miniature golf tournament that turned out to be the first local cable TV station program that was the number one program in its time slot among all cable viewers watching in my school district. And the geography may be right but I'm not sure about the timing but I know that Dell Curry played his final years as a Cavs player and then after his retirement worked in the front office of the Cavs so pretty much by the time I was doing the tournament, a young Steph Curry could have either directly or indirectly heard of my miniature golf tournament, maybe seen it, and either like the sport of miniature golf itself or the commentary that I and either Jamal Nickens (yes the same Jamal Nickens who was considered one of the greatest all around video game players in 00s on national basic cable television.) and on year two and three, a rotating cast of second people had a mix of serious commentary and comedy as the backing talk track to the competition, or the combination of the 2, and the thing that his money and fame added to that formula was Giant painful obstacle course along the style MXC and Wipeout, either giving penalty strokes or awarding ludistic advantages to the better person who takes the obstacle better.

I'll just say if he did see my miniature golf and combine it with mxc Wipeout I'm honored I was the inspiration half to two thirds of his formula for a successful show, and if he didn't even know of my show, I could say I was an unintentional forerunner to Holey Moley. Of course minus the big prize and the big obstacles and the big hits.

I'm obviously not going to sue because I did not invent the sport of miniature golf and I don't think I invented partially comedic partially serious commentary or the concept of televising miniature golf.

My point is that maybe just being me is usually entertaining but I need something to focus on to be partially serious and partially funny so the funny parts are really funny.

I will chose Street Fighter 2 Hyper Fighting for three reasons. One reason is I understand it enough where I can make reasonably intelligent commentary on it. Another reason is I beat the local champion who is Jamal nickens in Street Fighter and so did five other people when I use the right-handed fight stick so that might be the sponsor of the tournament,. And as part of the tournament you could earn parts of your money back in the tournament if you beat me while I use my own brand of Sinister Sticks, and the other 2 reasons is the virtual boy has Hyper Fighting and Hyper fighting is online on the PlayStation 4 Xbox One and Nintendo Switch.

I don't have to rely on anyone taking me anywhere. I don't have any other responsibilities except basic living responsibilities so I got the free time I proved I did something like this before well. This might be the boost I need in streaming.

The TRDL is how do I install a VGA security screw on a VGA mount without risking it being unscrewed through use?

February 4, 2022

Hello.

I'll summarize in one question with details below for TLDR:. Are there S-Video cables that are of good enough quality where the savings vs a Retrotink com RGB2COMP is worth the downgrade from SCART to S Video? And how does Pixel Ping Time for light gun games compare S video Direct vs Retrotink.

**************

I have dared to compare, and though i don't have percise tools, a non gun game had practically zero delay on a Retrotink 2X Pro M YCbRr to VGA adapter. It matched a direct connection frame for frame.

I had a playback show the MTVBOX, though it only converted NTSC Ch 2 or 4 (3 broadcasts in Cleveland) to BHA directly, it was one frame behind an NTSC to composite via VCR plus composite to HDMI via Retrotink 2x.

I got a Daewoo 19 inch YCbCr CRT TV.

I also have a Sega Saturn with Composite hookup, and SCART hookup.

Also there are S-Video cables, but the official ones are more expensive on ebay used than an RGB2Comp.

Are there any good unofficial SVideo cables for Saturn?

Are they significantly less than $70 (price of new RGBtoComp, directly from Retrotink.com).

How big is the visual quality difference between S Video versus SCART to YCbCr?

Also, maybe the RGB2Comp may work just as well for Master System, Genesis, SNES and PS1/2 light gun games. (And maybe Dreamcast if SCART is not limited like VGA is.)

But I have to buy a DC SCART cable too.

If that's the case

January 11, 2022

54 minutes ago, grips03 said:

I recommend you make a new thread for that. Would prefer to have this thread focus on the adapter I made so there is less confusion.

Sorry, but can I use the exsiting diagram to find a way to do a true 3 button+multi inputs?

I would like to use your keypad diagram for the keypad portion of an adapter and the joystick wiring for treating the diagonals right. May we use?

Also it could make a good 5200 adapter where all diagonals are 70% analog strength, to electrically force it within a circle.

I know if a keypad is used the ABC of the buttons are column indicators and inly one us used if a jey is pressed

Doesn't Sega Master System use 2 buttons, while a Omega Race Booster Grip tap the 2 paddles to make 2 extra buttons, plus the main one for 3 buttons? If so, a Booster Grip would have a good "naked 3 button controller" for INTV, except we have to use your diagram for treating 8 way diagonals right and the keypad.

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