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Posts posted by tripletopper

  1. It's not the strength so much.  I just spray and wipe. 


    It's not so much an issue of strength as it is purity.


    It's the ingredients other than the alcohol and water that have me concerned.


    "70% rubbing alcohol" was, pre-Covid, the name for the kind  which has extra herbs.


    The dragon punch website conspiracy is that "the herbs are unlabeled, because they are not required to be labeled."


    I think they think I'm gullable.  I asked my pharmacist "If herbs are added to a rubbing alcohol, must they be listed on the ingredients list?  My discs are allergic to herbs in certain rubbing alcohols that are not in isopropylhol.". And he said everything should be listed.  So the 70% isopropylhol is a new sevondary Covid phenomenon.

  2. The other stuff called "rubbing alcohol" also has pain killing herbs.


    If you run across that, that will DAMAGE electronic equipment.


    There was a conspiracy on  the "dragon punch" website saying that "rubbing alcohol" and "70% isopropylhol" both have the herbs and by law don't have to list the herbs as ingredients.


    If I need to clean something with it, I'll say to irreparable <$3 disc or cartridge game on eBay, "you first".  Do not do Red Sea Crossing (if I had such a cartridge, which I don't)


    • Confused 1

  3. 15 hours ago, 4300 said:

    Check your local cvs. Every cvs I've been to has been fully stocked with 91%.

    Ever since Covid-19, every grocery store, department store, and pharmacy I went to don't have 91%.


    I'm trying to find out if the 70% is a diluted version of the 91%, or an alternate name for rubbing alcohol with painkilling herbs.  The only inert ingredient is Water.


    also is this unique to Medina County Ohio or are other people in a similar situation of running out of 91% isopropyl and being given the 70% stuff.


    NEW STUFF (above was in phone memory). 


    First of all the strength is not that important, the more important thing is lack of foreign ingredients to the recipe of isopropyl.


    Since the bottle has as it's only inert ingredient water,  should that indicate that this is pure alcohol water mix just a little diluted.  also I should look for small print under where it says alcohol to see if there's other ingredients that would be considered active like painkilling herbs.  Look at the fine print.  If I see something indicating something other than alcohol then I should bail.


    Is this unique to Medina County, Ohio that has 70% isopropyl not 91%? Is this like a county Covid law or something because apparently I can't find 91 stuff locally.


    I got a couple of unplayably scratched copies that I tried to repair and failed I could use is a litmus test as to whether it's just pure alcohol or alcohol plus herbs.   Will the foreign ingredients eat at the disc or do something obviously noticeable?


    does it cost three bucks to repair them versus finding them use three bucks on eBay might as well use it as a petri dish.

  4. Well I found out my Hauppauge can capture 480i natively via component but not 240p.


    I read there are some things called line doublers which take a 240p device and turn it to 480p by repeating each line once and moving on.


    Are there such things as conditional line doublers where if it senses 240p it activates line doubling mode and if it does not, (480i or 480p mode)  it just passes it through with no processing.  My Hauppauge Rocket can do 480i? 


    Also would a line doubler take a 480p signal and make it playable on a VGA monitor?


    Finally how much ping does de-interlacing typically add? (Hopefully 1 ms or less, just like a Rocket). Heck maybe I can use a rocket as a de-Interlacer + booster to HD  to work on my VGA.

  5. Before covered I always saw 91% isopropylhol, the gold standard for cleaning cartridges, because the only other ingredient is water and isopropyl washes more stingey dirt off better.


    The stuff you should avoid is called rubbing alcohol because that is 70% isopropyl, and 20 of the remaining 30% are medical herbs and topical painkillers, and other stuff that has to be listed as ingredients.


    When I saw my isopropyl is low, the only stuff I could find was labeled 70% isopropylhol.  Do I understand alcohol being get higher demand due to increased hand sanitization, so to make it go farther they make they put less isopropyl in a bottle of isopropyl.


    But the question is is this just a weaker version of a 90% isopropyl with the remaining 20% being made up by water or is it rubbing alcohol under another name 


    the pharmacist couldn't tell me whether there was any foreign ingredients or not other than isopropyl and water.  he assumed that if there was no ingredient listed other than isopropyl then what and water then there is none.


    I asked this question a different website and they were saying that never use the 70% stuff.  I understand it's true normally but the question is is the 70% stuff of today a diluted version of the 90% stuff?


    They someone at that other site said they don't have to tell you what's in there other than isopropylhol, but I thought truth is labeling laws required an ingredients list of everything you either eat drink apply on your skin or otherwise consume to yourself physical self.


    I don't know whether they're going off the old assumption of 70% containing other herbs and other ingredients, but I have been perceived as kind of a unwitting villain in this other website for promoting my right hand stick as a way to improve a lot of games, so baby they're just playing villain back.


    I don't know of any law that says you're allowed to hide the other ingredients in rubbing alcohol.  Therefore if the only ingredients say isopropylhol and water then there should be nothing else but those two things in there.


    I don't have a pre-Covid bottle of the "rubbing alcohol" that has other ingredients besides alcohol and water.


    So is this just a Covid phenomenon of making the alcohol last longer by diluting CD / cartridge cleaner/cartridge cleaner?


    And if the bottles only ingredients say alcohol and water and I use on a CD and it turns out to be the rubbing alcohol kind with things that hurt CDs then that would be a bad mislabeling problem and I could sue them for the damage of the discs.  Claiming they violate truth in labeling laws, saying there are no other ingredients but adding extra ingredients.


    Common Sense tells me that either the 70% is just a diluted version of 90% or I found a loophole in the labeling system of isopropyl that has to be addressed and clarified.

    • Sad 1

  6. I also read that UVC capture cards sometimes don't register on certain Mac OS is very well.  Sometimes you have to replug them in and try again.


    Does anyone know of any UVC components capture cards?  It appears my Hauppauge Rocket doesn't understand 240p via component.  does anyone know of a UVC capture card that does do both 240p and 480i by component, preferably an analog one, for my retro TV, to do all Sega systems plus the Super NES in full color?

  7. Shoryuken has sub pages where you can hire someone to build, or learn the trickier aspects of gaming joysticks.


    I learned to combine a few concepts there and hired Stan Escolano of California to build my prototype SinisterSticks.com joystick.  Atari is as simple as direct connection.  No coding, unlike NES and beyond.




  8. Then why do my games run perfectly fine through compositing this video but through SCART to component conversions it fails?  Is it because they assume the component is going to be at least 480p and if you're giving it a 240p signal, it doesn't understand it?


    And would my Hauppauge Rocket be able to understand 240p via composite and S Video, but not component?


    If that's the case, do you know of any UVC compatible component connectors that could deal with resolutions at 240p as well as 480i that work with Mac OS 10.11.


    I also have a Roxio game cap but I can't seem to get it working with my Macintosh.  Can anyone recommend a Mac compatible capture card that can do 240p component?

  9. Well a lot of fight stick makers use the exact same components on Shoryuken.com.


    Thankfully your job is much easier than the typical shoryuken joystick maker, because you just hook one button signal to the left what hook one button signal to the right hook one button signal to the fire and all three buttons to the ground.


    You don't have to worry about programming stuff to make it work.  It's a direct controller.  There's no coding.  there's no organizing a bits. There's no serializing.

  10. Hello.


    I just bought a retro tink SCART RGB to 5 RCA YCbCr/L/R from Stone Age Gamer in Ohio (mail order).


    I plugged it in and some games work and some games do not.


    First of all I have to clean off the contacts on the cartridges with isopropylhol.


    So far I tried two systems.  The first is the Sega Tower of Power and I test the stream with Eternal Champions CD.  the TV was very low ping; I was able to block a lot of my opponents attacks.  I'm playing on a component TV Sony Wega,. And I chain 2 capture cards, a combination of a Hauppauge Rocket in standalone mode converted to HDMI and then one of those $10 HDMI capture cards in a USB 2.0 port.


    By the way there's two reasons why I don't use the Rocket in normal mode.  One is I have a Macintosh  and two  in order to use it in Mac mode you have to buy third-party software which relies on VLC and VLC is tied to your house bqndwidh and my house has a maximum bandwidth of 1.5 Meg in 400k out but I can improve it with a direct Cellular connection of the output.  The Mac is acting as a television studio but is limited by VLC it seems like, even though I'm actually streaming from the second screen of my Mac into the Android which uses Android apps to screen send to Twitch.


    I thought I was going to have a good time until next tried the SNES.  First I tried Killer Instinct, that showed up perfectly fine on my screen but it didn't show up at all on my capture card.  Also the Rocket was blinking blue which means signal not recognized.  Then I tried legend of the mystical ninja and that was the same thing.


    No I don't know how you tell the difference between a 240p and a 480i but if Eternal Champions is 480i and Killer Instinct and Legend of the Mystical Ninja is 240p, then my suspicion is that my Hauppauge Rocket cannot capture 240p accurately. It just comes out as an error.


    I currently have a external adapter that takes component audio and video YPbP + LR to HDMI converter.  It's one of the ones I found on eBay.  If my component to HDMI converter can accurately deal with 240p then I should plug that into the HDMI capture box.


    By the way I split the signal with a powered splitter to my Wega as well as my capture card to have the lowest ping.  On a normal television, how do you tell if you're in 240p mode or 480i mode?  Do TVs convert one into the other usually or do they both usually display both natively?  Do Sony Wega CRT TVs display both native 240p and 480i?


    I noticed Eternal Champions CD looks kind of dotted and pixeled in the cinemas.  Is that just color blending adjacent pixels on a CRT TV?


    By the way, so far I see

    only five systems that can work with SCART without modifying any consoles: the master system/genesis 1, Genesis 2/32x, SNES (only the big model), Saturn, and Dreamcast. (and PlayStation 1 but the PlayStation 2 works good as a PlayStation one player for over 99% of the games.  And I heard Turbo Grafx would work with a add-on retro adapter and a Genesis 2[?] SCART cable.)  The other ones that can display RGB require some surgery on machines, right?


    Also I'm using a CRT VGA monitor for higher definitions without giving up the ping.  I noticed that any interlaced games do not work with a standard CRT VGA.


    All games on the Xbox One, PlayStation 4, and Switch (and beyond) should require progressive displays so therefore should all be easily convertible to CRT VGA (with a playing around with of the monitor controls.)  I assume if I find a 240p game for an old console, that will work on a CRT VGA with low enough delay for everything except light gun games.


    there are six systems that are kind of weird the ones, from PlayStation 2 to Wii U.  I heard the PlayStation 2 only has about 20 games that are compatible with progressive monitors, well the original Xbox has ALL BUT 20 games compatible with progressive monitors.  How do the Xbox 360 and PS3 do with games that run off progressive monitors?  I assume every game on those systems is compatible with some progressive mode.


    Finally we got the GameCube Wii and Wii U all compatible with 480i.  Just wondering what games would fail if you have a progressive only monitor like a typical CRT VGA.


    By the way I do have a device which lets you play 480i stuff on a VGA monitor.  I noticed Pac Mania for Genesis was one frame behind the default CRT on a slo-mo test.  If Genesis packmania was in 480i then that means the MTVBOX takes around one frame to de-interlace the signal.  Right.  May I have a old game that's done in 240p and see if that game is quicker on an MTVBOX because it doesn't have to de-interlace?



  11. On 10/18/2020 at 11:56 PM, phoenixdownita said:

    You're not gonna make a 3d adapter for free (or almost free), and you still need to have the gfx generated for your hypothetical "weird"-VGA signal/format ... so unless you plan to convert whatever it is you plan on making 3D it won't work.


    VGA is analogue RGBHV at stated frequencies and with signals of the right impedance  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VGA_connector , mostly progressive but there were (S)VGA modes that were interlaced too (800x600 87Hz interlaced was a thing). Note that the BNC variant is supposedly at 75ohms (like normal TVs).

    Here's the connector:



    if you ignore pin 4,9,11,12,15 ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Display_Data_Channel ) you get literally the separate channels for R G B + H V.

    The questionsare "Am I able to ignore them because they are PC specific pins?". and "if the answer to one is yes, will transferring all those VGA pins and back lose some of the data? "


    Also are there any "return signals" the Virtual Tap are expecting?  If yes, which ones, in a Stereoscopic hookup, are required to be returned to the source?

  12. I know this would be unique to Virtual Boy because Virtual Boy content is natively monochrome and stetroscopic Meaning if I have two full color images I need some sort of circuits (read by me as a computer program like Bino 3D)  to convert it to a Dubois Anaglyph. (The sweet spot between color info and depth info conveyed by red and cyan.)


    I understand that when dealing with black and white pictures tinting whites is red in the left eye and tinting whites as Saran in the right eye and merging them gives you two independent pictures that are perceived by both eyes on the same single screen. The resulting picture is a 3D black and white picture.


    I know optically it should work.  I just don't understand how to get the electronics to work to overlay a red and cyan layer on top of each other so that it takes the red of the left eye and the green and blue of the right eye and puts them in one unique common signal.


    Most of the other holes other than ones dealing with red green and blue and horizontal and vertical sink are things dealt with with the computer.  For those should I just pick one side and stick to that side like the left side for example meaning everything that's irrelevant to color and everything associated with red goes to left while green and blue go to right.  Someone told me the the screens were naturally in sync with each other.  So assuming the length of the cables are close enough to uniform, the only question is how do things electronically work for this to work.


    Do the grounds of the colors go back to where the color was originated?  Meaning does the red ground go back to the left VGA cable because red is left and green and blue grounds  go to the right, because the signal came from the right?


    And what those physical adapters take out the unnecessary extra pins?  and all those pens actually unnecessary if you're not writing it to a Windows brand PC or something similar?  Meaning would it work as a pure RBG screen if just the RGB sink and ground aspects were taken care of and all the other pins are ignored?





  13. Also you don't have to have a PC for VGA monitor work.


    For example I have the Xbox 360 official VGA adapter.  And that plugs straight into the monitor definitely works.


    I don't know enough about the non-visual signals but if there's other data besides visual signals being sent then all you have to do is pick one side or the other as the visual signals for the VGA adapter and use whatever is coming out of the virtual tap from one side or the other, and just take the green and blue of the right side and plug that straight into the combo.


    I don't know enough about the other pins to know if there's PC specific requirements that don't need to be dealt with in using a VGA monitor as a non-pc monitor?


    Are those other pins other than RGB and grounds and vsync and h sync and grounds for the sinks PC specific stuff that don't have to be copied when going purely from virtual tap to VGA monitor?  


    If so, then Eureka! That's how you build a VGA virtual tap anaglyph adapter.


    By the way do the green and blue grounds supposed to go to the right eye where there's only green and blue information or is it supposed to go to the left eye where there's the other supplemental information like the sync?


    One other question while we here.  What kind of connector does the default RGB connector use in the virtual tap non-VGA RGB form?  If it's either SCART,  an adapter for any Sega system, on SNES adapter, I'm going to have to figure out how to merge the red of left with the green and blue of right.


    Is the only information you need from the virtual tap in "non VGA form" is just red green and blue and the synk to be on the Green.  If so would that easily translate to a color space converter to go from RGB to ypvpr, and would it properly move the sync on G to the sync on y.


    and the main reason why this should work with the virtual tap and only the virtual tap is because the images are natively thawed in the computer as black and white images.  An Anaglyph was one of the original 3D formats which relied on the fact that the photographs were originally black and white.  since the color information on the picture didn't convey color information in the original but instead represented a left right code, nothing should be lost.

  14. The only reason I think it might be a possibility is because both eyes in the Virtual Boy are natively black and white monochrome.  (With whites tinted as Reds in the Virtual Boy hardware.)


    Since there is no color data that represents color in the Virtual Boy, then 100% of the color information could be used to isolate the left eye and the right eye.


    I agree if the screen has normal color data then you can't just merge them in this passive.


    the only reason I think it has a chance of working is because the virtual boy is black and white and you could change the tint on the virtual tap to be black and red on one eye and black and cyan on the other.  Therefore giving you two separate 2D images in the same picture, where both negative pixels are black, both positive pixels are white, pixels that are positive on the left but not the right are red and pixels that are positive on the right but not the left are cyan.


    that is literally the only reason why I think it would work just because of the monochromatic nature of the virtual boy.


    that is exactly the reason why there exists copies of Creature from the Black Lagoon on betamax in black and white,  red and cyan anaglyph.  There was no color data natively captured in that film.

  15. Keep in mind all these questions are in the context of using two virtual taps to get the left eye and the right eye merged into a stereoscopic image.  I'm using the theory that because computer signals are separated into RGB and red and cyan anaglyphs rely on the fact that left eye positive information is red, right eye information is conveyed positively through cyan, both together is white and negative information for both colors is black.


    I think I could have built either a VGA adapter with certain pins disconnected, but I could do it for cheaper than the labor cost because someone recommended using VGA to three RCA RGB connectors.


    Assuming that I don't need to change either the Hertz rate like going from VGA to standard television or the color space like going from RGB to ypbpr, and assuming those adapters are bidirectional, with this combination of physical adapters be a good labor-free way of making my Anaglyph merger:


    1. Use

    a. 3 of these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/351225767267

    b. One triad of separable RGB RCA cables of the same length.

    c. Possibly one or more m-m or one f-f VGA adapter.


    2. Plug one VGA adapter into the left virtual tap.   Plug a second VGA adapter into the right virtual tab.


    3.  Separate the red from the green and blue of the component RCA cables and plug the red of the L adapter to the red of the S adapter (L referring to left eye as referring to stereoscopic print). Do the same with the green and the blue of the our adapter to the S adapter.


    I believe this will work as long as one thing is true that none of the information is lost.  However I cannot guarantee that sync information won't be lost doing this.


    I assume if sync information isn't carried then we need a five RCA with the other two cables for vertical and horizontal sync.


    I was thinking the ground cable would be another connection that might be needed.


    Now if the sink information were to get lost by double converting physically only,. then probably the easiest solution is the higher my friend Stan to build a VGA adapter with the connection I was implying above.


    Since VGA starts and ends analog maybe I just take the sink information and all the other information associated with one picture and keep the red of the left for example and then just merge the cyan AKA green information blue information from the right one merge it with everything else and you got a whole VGA signal with different corresponding information for the left eye isolated in the red and the right eye isolated and green and blue.


    so what the right strategy be pick a side either left or right for every information other than color carried that straight through deaden the other stuff on the other end, and hope it takes.


    Of course this will only work if VGA information is uncoded.  If it's like a fight stick from the Super NES and hire then it's not as simple as one wire is left and another wire is right in Atari 2600 joysticks.


    (Searches eBay for VGA to RGBHV)


    At least physical information would be maintained with this device.  I noticed their BNC connectors which are not usually used much in the United States but luckily they only have to be consistent with each other and I just have to connect the green and blue of number two and red , h and v of number 1 into the respective number threes so all I got to find is a double female BNC adapter and order five of them.


    (Searches eBay for BNC F-F adapter)




    A ten pack for $22.20.  All I need is 5.


    The only thing really left in question is can the blue and green signals be carried and merged with a foreign h&v to form this anaglyph adapter I'm thinking of?


    I don't know if that's possible that's why I'm asking the bigger experts than me.


    I understand there's a better chance if it is uncoded and analog, which it is, but not totally sure.


    Based on understanding uncoated analog electrical signals before it seems to make sense.  But I don't know if there's an implied code in a VGA signal or if it's just purely analog signals arranged in a neat way, kind of like my sinistersticks.com joystick.

  16. 25 minutes ago, Giltygear said:

    I highly doubt you have the technical skills to make this happen.

    I could have two virtual taps ordered and then pay a little extra how installed one for the left eye, one for the right eye.


    Now the main question is the interface.  There's two different versions one is VGA one is some other kind of RGB.  There are separate R, G and B holes on the VGA and I assume the RCA cables are used for the other RGB version.


    I assume that the only thing you have to do is plug the RGB into the color space converter, to turn RGB into ypvpr.


    I don't have to know how to do it beyond a certain point.  I just have to have 50 bucks in order to get such a thing.  The only thing I have to do unique is red of left and green and blue of right.

  17. On 10/8/2020 at 5:39 PM, ColecoKing said:

    At first I though you were talking about Galaga and got confused, then I remembered that the alien in space invaders did move fast later.

    I never spend that much time with Space invaders to many better games at the same time or later. Asteroids was the big one. That's a game that could have benefited from screen nuke lol.

    What year was Tutankhamun released?  The arcade version had a left-right fire lever and a "genie bomb".


    This is one of those games that be the exception to index-to-index mirroring on most ambidextrous layouts.  That's why I try to compensate for that on my joystick known as  sinistersticks.com

  18. I was going to buy two virtual taps one for the left eye one for the right eye.  Since both can be any main color plus black, I was going to make the left black and red, make the right black and cyan, and twitch in Anaglyph.


    There are demos of emulated virtual boys being shown in Anaglyph. Now I just got to find the easiest way to do it with real hardware.


    There are two choices one is called RGB the other is called VGA.


    1. Should I assume that RGB is compatible with ypbpr on a standard ntsc CRT TV when you use an RGB to ypbpr color space converter?


    2. Should I assume that the RGB hookup is 3 RCA and designed for an RGB to ypbpr color space converter?


    3.  If I find a way to physically convert scart into 3 RCA RGB, then I could use the same converter for my SCARTSega and SNES games just physically convert scars to three RCA RGB and then use that converter.


    4.  Can I just use the red of the left eye and the green and the blue of the right eye and they should combine the make a red and cyan anaglyph?


    Just wondering if that's the best and easiest route to do Sega RGB and VB RGB R/C 3D









  19. Thankfully the solutions pretty easy.  All you have to do is unplug the VCR for an hour from the power source.  None of the other hookups have to be removed.  and the next time you use it plug it in and press power wait 10 seconds for it to say Auto then press power again.  All your channels come back.


    Before this the only solution was to take it to the factory dealer.  Who fixes JVC VCRs in 2020?  If it wasn't for the ntsc tuner, the only reason you want to VHS is either for home movies to transfer to DVD or higher or to play media that hasn't been converted to DVD or higher media.

  20. the tuner I was trying to use just suddenly stopped working and I can't find another VCR right now to start doing my twitch broadcast.  I was trying to program just channels two three and four for all the pre-composites channels that video games used, and somehow I got an F1 error.


    I can't find what an F1 error means in anywhere on the internet for VCR tuner locking up.


    I guess I'm going to plug it for about an hour and see if that gets rid of the memory.  If it doesn't I don't know what to do other than recycle and go find another tuner.


    Luckily the tape player doesn't have to work.

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