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SINGLE TOOTH

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Posts posted by SINGLE TOOTH

  1. Posted

    When I did mine, I removed the cable, then reversed it and plugged the other end into the internal rca jack. Then I took the end that was originally soldered to the board and put a standard coaxial rf connector on it so I could connect it to my tv without one of those rca to coax adapters. Combined with an rf trap and a signal booster and I got near composite quality. (this was long before I installed the UAV, which looks even better)

    Thats actually a brilliant idea!!!

  2. Posted · Edited by SINGLE TOOTH

    Um..if you remove it and then use a standard RCA type cable like the 2600 uses, then you can still wrap it around the base under the console...

    Id prefer to use the original cable for a few reasons. Its long, and I feel like it has more shielding compared to the modern RCA cables. The newer ones arent as robust. Maybe Im wrong but the old cables sure have a lot of the grounding insulation compared to the newer ones and I have to think that helps with the video quality from RF

  5. Posted

    I don't know why the internal connector is there. But it is used on the 2-port models of course. My theory..is that they were originally planning on the 4-port to use a separate power and video just like the 2600, but then late in the development they decided to go with the new all in one cable setup for an easier and sleeker looking design.

     

    I think this only because of the spot on the back of the case where the channel switch is, has that spot that looks like where they planned to route the power connection and eventually did on the 2-port models. So my thinking is that Atari had intended on them being separate to begin with and then eventually went back to that when making the 2-port models.

     

    I only removed the RF cable because CPUWIZ's guide here advises as much. I also think that once I did the power mod on my 4-port unit that the cable didn't work anymore for RF until i moved it to the RCA jack. But you don't have to replace the cable, just solder the center of the coax to the center point off the jack, and the shield portion of the outer wire to the outer point of the RCA jack. Just make sure to cable tie it down or knot the cable internally so it can't be yanked out easily.

     

     

    I'm actually in the middle of power modding my 4-port and didn't see any reference to removing the soldered on cable. Does that need to be removed, or can you still use it for RF? I was planning on keeping it.

  8. Posted

    So I made a previous post here, but nobody chimed in and I found out more information which might deserve a different thread since I can't edit the title.

     

    old thread

    http://atariage.com/forums/topic/277333-cx53-trak-ball-issues-jittery/

     

    So I thought I had a Trak-Ball issue where it was jittery. I had changed just about everything in it; the dome buttons, all of the IC's, bearings, etc. Nothing seemed to help with it being jittery.

     

    I just got a NIB trak-ball from Venezuela. I plugged it in and nothing would move the cursor. I then swapped out IC A1 (LM339) and then I could get the cursor moving, but it was still jittery. I swapped out the rest of the IC's and still jittery even on the NIB one. I then thought this was too much of a coincidence and decided to dig out an old 4 port 5200 and hooked up the RF. I would have done this sooner, but I didn't think this was the cause and it's a pain. My other 2 port i had been using has really nice video with the S-video mod I put in. When I put the NIB trak-ball hooked up to the 4 port 5200 it works fine. The issue must be with the 2 port 5200.

     

    Anyway, what could be causing this issue with my 2 port 5200? Is there some kind of IC that is responsible for this?

  11. Posted

    Dude, what Kernal are you needing? I have some spare parts around here I could help a brutha out.

    Crap! Too bad you didn't chime in earlier, I had to resort to ebay. The good news is that the chip came today and it fixed the c64! Now most of the chips are socketed on my system.

     

    Now, the keyboard is messed up though :((( Return doesn't work and some other keys are sketchy.

     

     

    post-1274-0-43983700-1523415035.jpg

  14. Posted

    What do you mean new gold controller? Did you buy it as a whole unit, or upgrade it yourself?

     

    I think I've had this issue before when the pots inside weren't lined up in the slots so the X/Y axis didn't get the full range of motion. Might have to take them apart again.

  16. Posted

    I have a 7800 that has the cartridge guide tabs broken off so the dust covers don't open on 2600 games. Years ago, I inserted some paper clip wires into the plastic while the metal was hot.

     

    I'd like to fix this machine decently. Anyone know of a good source for these?

  17. Posted · Edited by SINGLE TOOTH

    I ordered a Kernal ROM chip from Vintage computer cave on Mar 14th and never got any product. Just a confirmation email. I've replied to the email a few times about the status, but never got a reply. Before I bought I searched for the store and saw one user post about being concerned about buying from them, but got the part a few days later.

     

    Anyone ever use this place??

  19. Posted

    Congratulations, well done with good help from this community :)

     

    This thread, the login screen brings me back to the old times with BBS´s... I think, I will dig in the basement, hope to find my 850, the US Robotics modem and finally hope, it will connect over the actual VOIP fixed line...

     

    Are there some real working BBS in the U.S. with real analogue dial-in ports - no telnet etc.? Does anybody has a list?

     

    Jurgen

     

     

    Download the list here, and in the zip file there is a file for dialup bbses.

     

    https://www.telnetbbsguide.com/lists/download-list/

    • Like 2

  20. Posted

    Glad to see you got it working! My 850 came in a lot I purchased a few months back and thankfully worked just fine. Maybe you could open up the "bad" one and look for loose solder points on the SIO connector as well as any possible cracked traces. The board in this is pretty robust, so I doubt the traces are cracked. As for the NOS 850, well, that just SUCKS!

    I took them both apart last night. I didn't visually see anything wrong at all. :(

     

    Maybe I'll reflow the pins anyway.

    Really disappointed that the NIB 850 didn't work.

  21. Posted

    Excellent! I may have missed something, but what did you do differently this time to make it work?

     

    Edit: got it, I missed you mentioned you were previously using the cx-88 terminal cable instead of the cx-87 modem cable this time. Cheers!

    I am not sure why it didn’t work at some point earlier as I’ve prosbbly tried this combination before. What really helped is knowing what sounds to listen for so the 850 drivers loaded. I did also notice bobterm did load some extra drivers this time around. I can’t say I saw that happen before.

  22. Posted · Edited by SINGLE TOOTH

    Congratulations, well done with good help from this community :)

     

    This thread, the login screen brings me back to the old times with BBS´s... I think, I will dig in the basement, hope to find my 850, the US Robotics modem and finally hope, it will connect over the actual VOIP fixed line...

     

    Are there some real working BBS in the U.S. with real analogue dial-in ports - no telnet etc.? Does anybody has a list?

     

    Jurgen

     

     

    I actually did dial into a bbs with my xm301 modem, but there aren’t many dial in bbs’s. It looked like crap on 40 columns on my Atari though. Not sure if there are any dial up Atari boards. Google bbs list and you’ll see a site that has a list of all bbs’s. There is a separate list for dual up bbs.

     

    edit I see you’re in Germany. Not sure if that list will help you.

  24. Posted

     

    No, the top button on all four ports corresponds to the same shift bit. You have to rotate through the controllers, reading a different one each frame, and remember which one you were looking at when you check for key presses.

     

    I always wondered why so few 5200 games used that second button. The real reason is probably because so many games were ports from the 8-bit line and there was only one button there, but I like to pretend that it's because the second button is just such a pain to read.

    I'm also boggled why the 7800 games didn't use the two buttons more often.

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