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SINGLE TOOTH

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Posts posted by SINGLE TOOTH

  3. Posted

    So I got a C64 a while back at goodwill for $2.99. It's an early board, version 326298.

     

    It hasn't worked since I bought it. When you plug it in, just a black screen. If you put a cartridge in, there's a garbled screen.

    Some people on a Commodore group thought it might be the PLA, so I bought a PLAnkton chip and installed it. No change.

     

    I then decided to start removing RAM chips and putting sockets in them. Anyone know a good source for these chips? Anyway, while removing the chips I managed to destroy the glass (didn't know those existed) capacitor at location C43. The schematic shows it's value as .22. The label on the capacitor is labeled "224."

     

    See attachments.

     

    A couple of questions:

     

    1. Anyone know a possible cause of the garbage screen?

    2. I'm not too savvy with the different RAM chips, anyone know a source for these?

    3. And now I need a source for the glass capacitor at C43. What kind of capacitor/value can I use as a replacement?

    post-1274-0-10891100-1520433338.jpg

    post-1274-0-65520100-1520433346_thumb.jpg

    post-1274-0-04357800-1520433360_thumb.jpg

  5. Posted

     

    What did Ray miss - just about everything the video game industry was to become. HIs mention about Alcorn doing the hologram thing as a distraction was laughable - Ray didnt provide any technical leadership or direction, so there were 100's of laughable 0 potential engineering projects going on cause all Ray and his mgmt team cared about was milking the 2600.

     

     

    So he cancels forward-thinking projects like the hologram game system, milks the 2600, and then says that the 5200 failed because it didn't have the newer technology the market was looking for.

     

    Maybe he shouldn't have shoe-horned the aging Atari computer line into a "new" Atari game console and used a new project instead.

  8. Posted

     

    Yeah, I've only recently returned to the Atari 5200 after 30 years. All I have is what you see here...

     

    gallery_35324_1856_68535.jpg

     

    ... eventually I want to get an AtariMax cartridge and a MasterPlay clone... but I have too many irons in the fire at the moment, however a single Pengo cartridge for a reasonable price would get me to click...

    I like your setup!

  10. Posted · Edited by SINGLE TOOTH

    Can't seem to get much better than 48,100 with the standard CX52 controller. Might be time to go digital.

     

    post-1274-0-30205600-1491917521_thumb.jpg

     

    This was one of my favorite games when I was about 3-4 when we had our 5200. Of course, I wasn't good at it, being a small child, lol. Haven't really played this game since then.

  15. Posted

    I found a Trak-Ball that is serial number 00249, so I figured it'd be interesting to see what kind of serial numbers are out there. I asked the 5200 facebook group and a bunch of people there gave me the numbers off of their Trak-Balls.

     

    Please feel free to post your serial number and any interesting information, like Country of Manufacture and the EP codes. Or, any other code prefixes.

     

    Here's the list.

     

    https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1aOaXTLlwIG_rvisCZmIbVjZiZ8-MXtSo0AxY41u3-BU/edit?usp=sharing

  18. Posted

    Yeah, I really don't like working on the CV. The traces are just so susceptible to heat it is crazy. There is a guy locally that does the +5 mod etc...and he finds it best to just use his hot air iron and flip the board over under the chips start to fall off. I now figured out that using my FR300 de-soldering iron, if I adjust it for the setting just a hair over 1 (Single layer board work), that it seems to do just fine without lifting traces. But I can't stress enough that if a chip won't come off easy, then you need to keep using solder and remove...solder and remove until those pins move freely.

     

    The 5200 is actually pretty damn forgiving in that respect as it has lots of large traces that can literally take the heat. Only the 7800 borders on being a pain with traces though still not nearly as bad as the CV is...

    Yeah I had that issue where the controller direction didn't work so the IC for the controllers needed to be replaced. The traces pretty much melted away, lol.

    I'll have to remember how fragile these things are. I didn't like working it the CV at all. I could see how the 5200 would be easy to repair, looks like a old computer motherboard, thick PCB and big traces.

  19. Posted

    I wouldn't think so no. I use a variable temp iron and do repairs like this on the 5200 and other consoles at about 300. Except the CV...those things are so fragile I don't go above 250 when working on those.

    At least now I don't feel so bad about ruining a CV, lol

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