Ian Primus

Gah, it seems that Atariage put my pictures in reverse order. That, and I accidentally used the wrong set of pictures. I had scaled them down quite a bit to make them smaller. Sorry about that! Ian Primus [email protected]

Here are some pictures of the process

Plug one end of the adapter into the RCA cable that is attached to the 2600. Plug the other end into the cable input jack on the television set. Turn the television set on, and tune it to channel 3. Put a cartridge into the 2600, and plug in a joysstick. Turn on the 2600. Play. Repeat as necessary. Just go down to Rat Shack and tell them you need an AC adapter that supplies 9 volts DC at 500mA with an 1/8" mono headphone plug on the end, tip positive. They can help you. All the AC adapters they sell are that "universal" type. They have a whole display of them, along with a bundle of wires with the different connectors, so you can see which connector you need. If necessary, you can bring the 2600 with you, so you can match up the connector, in case you don't know what you are looking for. Ian Primus [email protected]

I have had my 5200 (4 port) for about a year and never got around to hacking up a power adapter for it. I finally got around to it tonight, and I must say, that it really is a great system, the graphics and sound are great, and once I repaired that #$*% controller, it is a lot of fun to play. I haven't done much playing other than testing the small pile of carts I had with it, and I noticed that Space Invaders did something odd. All the graphics are scrambled, and the invaders are smeared across the screen. It almost reminds me of a dirty NES cart, where the CHR ROM isn't making good contact, so the program is still there, but the graphics are hosed. But I have already checked the contacts, and cleaned them again for good measure, but I still get the same results. Besides, the 5200 doesn't use that method of game storage(separate PRG and CHR), does it? The other carts I have play fine (except Q*Bert, which appears totally dead). Any ideas? Anyone seen anything like this before on the 5200? I'm new to the hardware, I'm mostly a 2600/7800 nut myself, but I'm learning what I can (like: Yes, there is such a thing as a console bigger than an XBox, and that there _is_ something harder on your hands than an Intellivision controller) Ian Primus [email protected]

The signal that comes out of the Atari 2600 is RF, just like cable television. All 2600's have a long cable attached with an RCA connector on the end (except for the JR, that has a socket for one, the cable isn't permanently attached). This cable is the video cable, and is essentially the same as regular TV cable. All the switchbox does is convert between the RCA connector and 300 ohm TV antenna leads. Then, to plug into a modern cable ready TV, you would use a 75ohm matching transformer. So, in essence, you would be going from 75 ohm signal, to 300 ohm outputs, and back to 75 ohm. So, you can eliminate that switchbox entirely, and convert the connector over to an F type screw on connector that modern TV's use. Since the old switchboxes leak so much RFI, you generally get snow in the picture. That tiny adapter is much better shielded, so you will have a nice, direct feed into the TV. If you want even better picture, you can hack the 2600 to produce composite video, but I won't go into that now... As for the power adapters, most modern eqipment no longer uses the mini phono plug for the power input anymore. Ever remember plugging the connector into the Atari and getting a spark? That's the adapter being shorted out as you connected it. So, manufacturers switched to using those barrel plugs, that always will keep the positive and negative seperate, no matter how you plug it in. So, most adapters you find will not have the right connecter on them. As I mentioned earlier, you can cut off the old connector and solder on a new one, it's just a standard 3.5mm mono headphone plug. Or, you can buy one of Rat Shack's "universal" AC adapters, and use the proper connector (The AC adapter just has a two pin connector on the end, and then any plug can be fitted on easily, at extra cost, of course) I personally don't like that system, since the connector plug doesn't always stay on the adapter like it should, and they are more expensive. But, if you don't know which end of a soldering iron to hold, or just don't want to fool with it, that is the way to go. Ian Primus [email protected]

That's exactly the adapter I described earlier, I just couldn't find a picture of it. I forgot that AtariAge sold it too. That will work just fine for the video, and gives a lot better picture than those TV/Game switchboxes. It's also cheaper. As for the power adapter, that Radio Shack one should work fine, although 1200mA is a litle overkill, I think they may have a smaller rated one a little cheaper. Years ago, I bought a 500mA one there, but Radio Shack changes their stock so often, that it's hard to say anymore. Radio Shack has gotten just about worthless when it comes to electronic parts though. I was just there trying to buy some resistors to build a composite video board for my 5200, but they didn't have any of the ones I needed. And, they have condensed their entire parts selection down to a small cabinet with drawers, although the packages that the parts are in don't actually _fit_ in the drawers. They also only carry about four different IC's now. I can't even get 7404's there anymore. It's pretty pathetic. Ian Primus [email protected]

The AC adapter voltage is not critical. The original was 9 volts, 500mA, tip positive. The connector is just a mini phono plug, the same as used on mono headphones. The Atari employs a 7805 voltage regulator, and as such, can theoretically operate on any voltage from about 7 volts to 35 volts. I wouldn't try going any higher than say 15 or so, however. Just get any old AC adapter that puts out about 9 volts, and at least 500mA, cut the connector off and solder on a the proper connector. You can get the connectors at Radio Shack. If you don't want to build it yourself, you can just buy a 9 volt adapter at Radio Shack with the proper connector. They sell them, they're just a little on the expensive side (~$15 last time I checked) As for connecting the Atari, just go to Radio Shack and get a female RCA to F connector adapter. This tiny adapter replaces that switchbox entirely, allowing you to simply plug the Atari into the cable input on your TV set. It also gives a much clearer picture in most cases, since those old switchbox things leaked RFI like a sieve. Ian Primus [email protected]

I have been playing Gas Hog some lately, but I still haven't gotten the hang of the gameplay. Any hints or tricks I should be aware of? Ian Primus [email protected]

The power supply for the Atari 2600 is 9 volts, 500mA, tip positive. But, since the Atari uses a 7805 voltage regulator to generate the 5 volts needed for the TTL logic, you can probably get away with anything from about 7 volts to 35 volts. I would try to keep it as close to the original 9 volts as possible, however. Also, keep in mind that a lot of the original power adapters aren't really that great, and several of the ones I have run a little more than 9 volts, some even as high as 18 volts (with load). Without a load, those adapters can range all sorts of weird voltages. In other words, the Atari isn't picky about voltage, but make sure the polarity is correct, and that you are using DC current (not AC!). I have even rigged my Atari to run off batteries during a blackout. If you are unsure as to wether or not your power supply works, test it with a multimeter. If you don't have a multimeter, you can just connect a Christmas tree light bulb between the tip and the ring. If it lights, the power adapter is good. As for the video output, the signal produced by the VCS is an RF signal, just like TV cable. You have to connect it to the antenna or cable input of the television set (NOT the A/V jacks!). You can do this with the original switchbox, or for better picture, you can get a female RCA to F connector adapter from Radio Shack (about $2), and use that. Make sure the TV is on channel 2 or 3 (depending on the switch setting on the Atari). Good luck! Ian Primus [email protected]

Thanks for the help. I managed to get a cartridge working this morning. I took a Pac-Man, and desoldered the old PROM chip, and installed a socket, and modified the traces on the board and added a 7404. It worked first try. I have made this into a "test cartridge", by cutting a hole through the cartridge casing and stacking another socket on the first one so that it comes up flush with the cartridge casing. I'll post pictures soon. Now, if only I could figure out the wiring for F8 bank switching. Ian Primus [email protected]

I just finished repairing my EPROM programmer, and I am eager to try it out. I want to make an EPROM cart, but I seem to have forgotten how, and I can't find the schematics I printed out way back when. I remember that Hozer Video games used to have instructions on their site, but it seems that Hozer is no longer in business (or at least, his site is down). Anyone have some decent schematics or instructions for wiring up the 7404 and 2732? What about using larger EPROMs as 4k? I have a large pile of 27256 and 27512 EPROMs, and I wouls assume that there shouldn't be any problem just programming the first 4k, and not connecting the higher address lines. Also, I would like to make a couple of 8k carts, anyone happen to have information on the bank switching? I know F8 bank switching was pretty common, but for the life of me, I can't remember how to do it. Thanks! Ian Primus [email protected]

It _is_ possible to burn in a color TV with a video game, but you would have to leave it on for a very long time. Screen burn was a big problem on older computer terminals and displays with monochrome green tubes. The P4 phosphor they used was pretty slow (you could still see the text glowing a little after it changed) and because of this, they burned easily. I had a terminal for a while that had, very crisply burned into the screen, a menu - "Add Patient, Schedule appointment, Change/Remove Appointment, etc.." A very well used terminal will sometimes have a 25 lines of little blurry boxes, since they only display text 80 columns by 25 lines, every charachter is always in a fixed location. Eventually, the phosphor can get burned in those locations.Also, on the older all in one Macintosh computers, the menu bar would get burned into the screen, since it's always there while using the computer. Also, I have seen Macs with "It is now safe to switch off your Macintosh" burned into the screen... Black and white TV's burn easier than color sets, but it would still take a lot of playing to get anything burned into the screen. I did, however, once see a color set at a thrift that had a very large, square, block burned into the center of the screen. It took me a minute to figure it out. It must have been a Commodore 64. The text display area on the C64 was dark blue with a light blue border. If you used the computer a LOT, and were programming in BASIC or something, that outer border and the inner background color would never change. But, as a general rule, no, it won't burn the screen of a CRT color set, unless you leave it on all day for a week or so. Ian Primus [email protected]

I have been away for too long. I used to post here a lot about two years ago. (I can't believe I remembered my login and password!) I kinda drifted away from Atari a year or so ago, mainly because things were hectic for a while, I moved from Indiana to New York, etc, etc. Anyway, I still have all my carts and stuff, and hadn't played them a lot, but I got a chance during the blackout... When the power went out here, I had nothing to do. We were without power for like two days. I could listen to the radio on a battery powered set, but all the good radio stations were down. I couldn't really go anywhere because I was almost out of gas and the gas stations (and stores for that matter) were without power. Anyway, I glanced over at my six switch sitting on top of the TV set in my computer room, and had an idea. I rigged the Atari to run off a couple of radio batteries, and connected it to a 5" black and white battery powered TV set. It was really the first time in a year that I had enough time to sit down and play Atari. Needless to say, those hours I spent staring into a tiny TV blasting away at Space Invaders, Asteroids, and all those other great games got me hooked again. I also learned a couple of things that day : 1) Mountain Dew tastes just fine warm. 2) Milk does not. 3) Cheez-Its are a great meal substitute (OK, I already knew that...) 4) Space Invaders is really hard to see on a black and white set if you turn the switch to "B&W", but it looks great with the switch on "Color". 5) E.T. is still a lousy game in black and white. Anyway, I'm hooked on Atari again, and hopefully I'll have more free time now. Ian Primus [email protected]

If that is what I think it is, it is meant for computers. They gave those out at all the stores before the console was released, and I think they may still have them. Basically, they just had a little rack near the video game section with these in it, kinda like AOL discs. The folder it is in looks like a GameCube console, or the top of it, anyway. The disc itself is a mini CD, like the ones the gamecube uses. It has some little movies on it and things. Ian Primus [email protected]

My main 2600 is a six-switch Sears Telegames unit, and it lives on top of my Playstation 2, on top of a TV set. Ironically enough, the 2600 seems to get more use. I even brought both systems to a party once and we didn't use the Playstation... Ian Primus [email protected]

Ok, here's mine: 10) You have a Band-Aid on your thumb more or less all the time due to Atari blisters. 9) You bought a brand new 50 inch HD-TV, and the first thing you hook up to it is an Atari 2600. You have worn out a set of tires on a thrifting expedition. 7) There is an Atari in every room in the house, including the bathroom, where you have waterproofed it to play in the shower. 6) You spend more on Atari carts annually than you spent on your car. 5) You bought a walk-in fireproof safe to store your Atari cart collection in. 4) You have the Atari logo tatooed on your arm. 3) You have not been able to play an entire game of Asteroids (until you die) because the controller always wears out before you die. 2) You make furniture out of Combat carts. and the #1 sign that you have taken your Atari collection too far: 1) You mortgaged your house to pay off an eBay auction for a cart you "had to have". Ian Primus [email protected]

I haven't found much at all in the wild, save for a mild score a few months ago - I got a VCS with 20 carts for a buck at a thrift. Also, at the same time, I found a VIC-20 and carts there too for a buck. All common carts for the Atari, but I don't know anything about VIC-20 carts. Ian Primus [email protected]

The Atari Video Music was not an attachment for an Atari 2600. It was sort of like a stereo compnent. It had inputs to connect a turntable or tape recorder or whatever source of music, and an output to connect to a television set. It would display a visual representation of the music on the television, kinda like a visualization on WinAmp or something. A funny story goes along with the Video Music system. Remember that Atari employed a lot of hippies in the 70's. When some marketer or someone (I can't remember) came to look at the Atari Video Music, he thought it was too psychadellic. He asked "What were you smoking when you came up with this thing?". Just then, a hippie smoking a marijuana cigarette came out from a back room... Ian Primus [email protected]

The Target here carries 90%, but I normally use 70%. It doesn't really matter which you use, but the 70% is cheaper. Ian Primus [email protected]

The power supply that shipped with the Atari is 9 volts, 500 mA, tip positive. It used a mono headphone style connector. Contrary to popular belief, you don't need the *exact* voltage to power the 2600. The Atari uses a 7805 voltage regulator to step down the power to 5 volts. The 7805 can handle up to 35 volts. Another thing to think about is how the 7805 works. It steps down the voltage to 5 volts, and to get rid of that excess energy, it creates heat. Now the minimum input voltage for the 7805 is 7 volts. If you feed 12 volts into it, it will still step it down to 5 volts, but the 7805 will heat up a little bit more. If you were to feed it 35 volts, it would heat up a LOT. If you put a voltmeter on an actual Atari supply these days, expect to get as much as 17 or 18 volts, as the parts in those things weren't exactly stellar, and have drifted over time. Another thing about the Atari is that it draws very little current, and 300ma should be sufficient, I have run it from a 9v 300ma supply for a long time and had no problems. (The Atari will even run for an hour or so off of a 9 volt radio battery!) So, just get a regular power supply, that puts out from 9 to 12 volts, and from about 300mA (at the least) to 700mA, and put a headphone style connector on it. Don't forget that the tip is positive, ring is negative, and when connecting the plug, be sure to solder and wrap electrical tape around the connections to keep them from shorting together. You really need to solder to make sure it doesn't jiggle loose. Ian Primus [email protected]

The Atari power supply may put out 500ma, but that doesn't mean that the Atari actually uses it all. As for the power regulators, they have them in all the Atari's, and they are all the industry standard 7805. They are often relabeled with an Atari part number, but they are still the 7805. The power supplies that came with all versions of the 2600 were 9v 500ma, tip positive. What I was referring to in them drifting is this - the parts in them, most notably the transformer and capacitors, have a tendancy to drift in value with age, more so with heat and disuse. They still say 9v 500ma, obviously, but when they are connected to a multimeter set for DC volts, they are sometimes higher or lower than 9 volts. They don't always drift, but I've had a couple that did. Ian Primus [email protected]

Well, without picking up a soldering iron and adding composite video outputs, there are still a couple things you can do. First, get rid of that old RF switch box! Those things leak in RFI like a sieve. Go to Radio Shack and get a coaxial (F-type) to female RCA adapter, Radio Shack part #278-276. Use this instead. Also, is this a Jr. model or something else? The Jr. seems to be much more prone to interference than the other models. If you do have the Jr. model, I'd reccommend getting a better Atari, the Jr. is IMHO the worst model of the 2600 made, as it is cheaply constructed and the switches are terrible. If you want to clear up the image on a Jr., get a shielded RCA cable to connect it up with. The nice thing about the other models of the Atari is that the RCA cable is attached inside the console, and is also of high quality, giving a good picture and also is rarely separated from the console, seeming as though it is attached inside, to remove it, the console must be disassembled. On the Jr, there is simply a port on the back to connect the cable. Most people simply use a cheap audio cable. While this will work, the picture will get fuzzy and pick up interference. You will need to get a shielded cable for this purpose. Ian Primus [email protected]

Don't worry, if you store "Bologna Invaders" between "Ice Hockey" and "Frostbite", it won't go bad. Ian Primus [email protected]

I'm guilty of skimping on food as to save the money as well... 2-liter of Mountain Dew Code Red - 99 cents Pringles - $1.00 This makes for a very good meal, it won't cost much, and if you buy different types of Pringles each day, you won't get sick of eating the same thing every day. Another highly underestimated meal is Taco Bell. I practically live off of it. You can get 3 tacos for 70 cents each, and do take out instead of eat in, so you can drink your Mountain Dew at home, and not have to pay exorbatent prices for drinks. Don't forget to pick up fire sauce, about 4 packets per taco. (that stuff is really weak). Ian Primus [email protected]

The Atari uses a 7805 voltage regulator to step down the power to 5 volts. The 7805 can handle up to 35 volts. The only thing that I would worry about is that since the amperage is only 300ma, in a worst case senario, you could concieveably burn out the power adapter. Another thing to think about is how the 7805 works. It steps down the voltage to 5 volts, and to get rid of that excess energy, it creates heat. Now the minimum input voltage for the 7805 is 7 volts. If you feed your 12 volts into it, it will still step it down to 5 volts, but the 7805 will heat up a bit more. If you were to feed it 35 volts, it would heat up a LOT. What this means for you is this: your 12 volt adapter shouldn't hurt the Atari. Actually, if you put a voltmeter on an actual Atari supply these days, expect to get as much as 17 or 18 volts, as the parts in those things weren't exactly stellar, and have drifted over time. Another thing about the Atari is that it draws very little current, and 300ma should be sufficient, I have run it from a 9v 300ma supply for a long time and had no problems. (The Atari will even run for an hour or so off of a 9 volt radio battery!) Ian Primus [email protected]