awace

If youre seriuos about converting VGA to Composite OR svideo! http://www.amazon.co...p;condition=new is what you want I would look on ebay I see them once every once and a while.. this device allows you to even use dos it takes 5 seconds to switch modes but once it does it works great there is only a slight delay sometimes the picture does this ___________ _____________ but it goes away its so slight you wont notice it once it rolls down the screen otherwise it looks great and can render 2048x1536 on the tv although you wont read more than 1152x864 and mostly 800x600 is better ALSO if you want 1200x800 then it will work w this device just select sony KLW7000 for youre monitor choice and select display modes youre monitor cant display! then force to this monitor choice and what ever choice windows in laptop will produce on its screen native it will show on TV in composite.. I use it on my regular tv mostly its in same mode as computer cause it picks mode from what ever mode youre video card is using you can not adjust mode on device.. I always use 1400x1050 or 1920x1050 I can goto 1920x1080 but my LCD monitor geeks in 1080 and 1050 looks just as good it looks like laptop mode so i assume its the native mode and i have selected 1024x1050 but had to use NVIDIA panel to select custom mode! anyway what ever mode you put to VGA plug this device follows.. if i goto c-mos after 5 seconds it switches and I can actualy go into the c-mos using that device on my tv its the best device I ever had It requires 5v and you can use ps2 keyboard connector or usb connector or you can just use a 5v power pack It makes the computer monitor plugged into its piggy back a little blury when plugged in but if youre watching the tv you wont care its great for UT or mame I even had a laptop and one in my arcade cabinet but decided to make the space invaders sit down cabinet back to original and did so removed the tv and the Zenith box rf mod I had hooked to a tv on ch3 witch worked great I just plug tvview into my vcr now! it is by far the best non hd vga to tv device avalible yet.. if also you can zoom in one spot on computer screen on the TV pushing ZOOM I use it to defeat letterbox I watch movie in small window over by the clock then i adjust window to over scan the letterbox below the clock and then the zoom box only sees the full screen witch is behind the box zoom window therby defeting the letterbox DVD im watching on the computer on the tv the zoom box only sees the full screen part of the DVD cause the letterbox window is bigger than the zoom window also when playing ut i choose some 1280 mode and watch on the tv and its great.. I hope you figure out what youre doing and have a soultion.. if failt you can just get a 22 inch lcd computer monitor like I did . someone gave me one he said it didnt work w hdmi and I said HMM I dont have hdmi ill take it I got it home and it worked great w vga! now its exactly as big as my 20 inch TV now i need a dual head pci card to make tV screen 1 and lcd screen2 GOOD LUCK AND WISH YOU figure out youre configuration. ALSO IF YOU NEED mame32 067.b skip game info skip discalimer I might bealble to find it for you .. also I have mame 029b for asteroids and all nessesarry DKONG files then there are some other versions of mame for galaga it seems you need a differnt version of mame for every game. I did however use a mame file speed cheat file on my original arcade pacman motherboard and it LOADED AND WORKED!!!!! I was so happy.

That's exactly what mine looks like but the numbers, paddle and ball are really faint. Edit: There is static too youre rf cable is shorted in the inside of the pong use a small wire snippers to chomp the weird screws out then just use a rca cable to TEST the rf connection if it works then you solved youre own problem witch i can almost guess thats the problem or mabie you should turn the color on youre tv down not to roast the color over its intended brightness also turn the contrast down a little donot over roast the controls on a old tv but we like it roasted anyway the pongs w the 4 game selector had a color burst crystal to make the rainbow color pattern to make it color so it should be in color if its to mutch just turn the color on youre tv down a little if there is interferance then youre rf cable is bad! ... I had this problem and took it and made a coin op game out of the board using a orange monitor a coin switch normally closed! and a couple of paddles i wanted from surplus store since i was 5 but didnt know what to do with them I used two rf cables cause they are long.. I also have a nother not butchared pong super pong unit witch works on the tv I just dont have the power pack Thats why I use the homerew arcade like one its just a pong in a square cube closet box suqare wooden box and a coin slot and a 5v power supply from old compaq and a 12v orange 13 inch screen its kind of cool but i call it functional furniture so if there is static then for shure youre rf connection inside is bad probably were it goes into the hole it probably has a short or no ground you could try grounding it to the (-) on the battery terminal to the rf box and see if its just missing its gnd w out having to take it apart in otherwords mabie the stinger on the cable is there or missing at least that way you would know weather there is a short or an open I know if you take it apart you can replace w rca cable but one end is shorted on the inside of the atari this is why I sometimes just snip this end and solder to the connections or I steal one from a broke atari GOOD LUCK I KNOW YOU WILL FIX IT . also the start button UNHOOKES to start game and starts when you rehook the start button to jumper also inside there is a speed or angle jumper witch is unused and can if you hook a nother pot 1meg ohm pot to it paddle it adjusts the speed of the angle ball comes off paddles! witch adds more exitement to game. also if you dont have exactly 5v to game it moves up and down and so do the paddles on the screen you need DC constant voltage thats why I used a computer power supply cause the power pack had to mutch ripple and was pissing me off cause the paddle was movining all around the screen.. you should have no problem using a small snippers wire cutter to get the screws loose you may damage the snippers but those are cheap $7 or less get one from hardware store just dont use the ones youre dad says is only for plastic... anyway I was glad i took the 1st one apart If you see a gold plated chip w gold over the erease eeprom window its worth like $400 on ebay cause its rare... ::cool::lol::rolling::rolling:

Sorry about the long rant I was up all night that night and didnt filter my thoughts BOY I CAN RANT

Thanks for the info. After surfing the link and doing some searching I found it to be the controllers for a Power Joy Voyager http://www.nesplayer...es/powerjoy.htm buy it its a power joy ther are illegal on ebay cause there a nes on chip i posted pictures here but i would get it if i was you i have one but no cart if you get the cart its RARE i had one w 79million games on it till i remved a jumper and got it to the 19 games it repeted.. also it has some cool built in games most are revamped on mine so its not so super bootleg but its cool anyway its not illegal but Nintendo seems to think differently if you try to sell one at a MALL I remember seeing those and wondered how long it would be it took them about 7 years but they caught him Im glad i wasnt involved but wish i would have bought some so i could resell the carts on ebay as they are super rare now. but if you have see one still get it you will be glad also they use famicom jap NES 8bit carts ...

You need a new socket just goto radio shack and get a replacement socket also check out this http://www.pong-story.com/gi.htm

I dont have a stelladaptor but did use a $14 joystick w analog looks like a ps1 joystick and you can assign analouge to paddle and it seems to work now all i have to do is remove the pot from the usb stick and solder wires to a paddle and mabie i could get it to work that would be cool also WHEN I USE A USB STICK W winxp and stellax it works great exept for paddle games witch i have used mouse also using the twin joystick usb joystick from microcenter i was able to get it to work yes it centers but thats becase the joystick has a detent to center the ananlog control but that dont prevent me from just soldering the top and the top from each pot to the ends of the atari pot and gnding the middle and seing if i can use a atari paddle

They were selling Frogger USB drives a few years ago that contained an emulated Frogger for Windows. I think that's how "plug'n'play" retro games are going to be done from now on, if they're done at all. Notebooks are a lot more popular than anything with a full-size PCI slot now. But I made a CD once with MAME, Stella and some other emulators and an auto-running, no-install Windows front end, and if you put it in a PC at boot, it would boot a minimal Linux distro with the same games. It ought to be possible to do the same thing with a USB keychain drive now. I mean, yeah, you could put one of these systems on a chip on a USB2 device with breakout dongles for the joysticks and feed the video and audio over USB2, but at that point it seems to me the emulator would be just as good for any system but the ones with funky controllers (Intellivision, for example). I did that w a amd k6II 350Mhz and a vga to tv scan box I used 1152x864 on the vga to composite out external TVVIEW box witch was cool then i loaded from a compact flash to IDE pcb and loaded freedos and a pci soundblaster dos driver!!! took 2 week to find driver on internet and a nother 3 week to get driver to work in dos!! lame anyway it worked then i finnaly got mame dos v0.67 to load C:\mame\mame.exe c:\mame\mspacman mspacman -skip_disclaimer -skip_gameinfo -soundcard 1 -noscanlines -double -cheat and after a LONG long long time cause I was using wrong motherboard It finally loaded mame mspacman fullscreen w no scanlines and cheats loaded I finnaly ripped it out and put it back to space invaders I had a tv in side my sitdown space invaders cabinet in witch I could load that cpact flash to ide drive into mspacman or just load windows of a normal drive and had it hooked to internet using a network cable then I decided to rip it apart but before i did that I hooked a paddle plug play to it and it was cool I had to use rf modulator cause this tv had ch3 only and if no video or audio in and i could not find a way to get it into the tv no cga or video in I only got ch3 to work but that was ok since I got no interferance on ch3 anyway this was before the loss of analog tv signals and since we had ch2 and ch4 to worry about I was happy it did work ok ALSO I modded the single plug play paddle atari paddle to accept REAL ATARI PADDLES I ripped the fire button off then on pcb board on Atari plug play paddle there is a ntsc jumper and a two player jumper and there is a plaCE TO solder real paddles onto existing paddle and add a extra paddle for player two and even though the menu is for 1 player and lies you can actually if you change jumper from one player to 2 player (BLACK 0 ohm reistor jumper) move from 1p to 2pl then add real paddles and modify real paddles to switch direction and wire differnt but almost then same the wiper is reversed so you have to reverse side they solder to other lug on opposite side then it is same as atari games then you can play two player game simultaioinsly but remember if you use old paddles make shure they are tough and not brittle cauase i showed off the two player paddle to my brother when i got done modding it and he pushed hard on the paddle and the fire button broke and the bottom came off luckally I had a lot of spare paddle parts around and fixed it I snipped the original 1 player built in paddle knob on the plug play box so there was a notch in the paddle wheel plastic knob so you could not move it any more cause it was unhooked anyway! then i took it apart and noticed it was only a 500K ohm paddle pot anyway witch pissed me off since Atari paddles are 1meg ohm to give full range and more senitivity 500K is only half and would run short faster than 1meg ohm witch would give more play and be easyer to use anyway, then I tried it out and it worked .. ALSO HOW COME NINTENDO DONT SUE jakks cause of the nes on chip for all atari plug play witch flashback uses for its menu selection I wonder if nintendo dont care aslong as a REAL nintendo game is not used but you would think the nes it self would be © unless it was licenced In witch either way I dont care but am curiouss weather NES nintendo knows about nes on chip in plug play devices or are they letting it slide only to crush atari flashback II version II after it comes out just to rub it in cause nintendo sucks like that anyway I hope that does NOT happen and am hoping someone at BASIC FUN would make a joystick or paddle with REAL pokey chip and all 3 Atari 2600 chips on it NO NO NO NO NO NO 7800 chips if you want a 7800 play emulation there was not many carts and the joysticks sucked all 7800 sucked and sucks I hated 7800 it was a JACK TRAMIAL crock to make atari come out w to many devices to run them into the ground ,, .. IF we are going to get a real system worth buying lets get a flashback that has a SD or compact flash slot in it that way we can pick SD menu w joystick then get a menu and pick any rom they would not be in .zip format and would have to be in .bin format but still would not beable to play PITFALL II unless they HAD Activision licence in witch it would be in the main menu as pitfall II w 2nd 800 level like the caverns of mars game is a combination of 800/2600 and has better graphics cause of the nes on chip thing then you could have flashback II ver II with memstick hole and cart mod still on pcb but you would not need cart MOD but if wanted you could do a mod but the switch would be easyer and you would need two single pole single throw one on one off or on off other on to select built in games and could still scratch a old color/bw switch off foil pattern on original 2600 pcb and use it for selecting built in and cart mode on flashback II ver 1 rev? anyway then could use mem stick to run roms or youre own homebrew w out having to make homebrew carts ruineing pacman or other original atari carts and you could instead load them off mem stick and use a old 2600 case witch has fried 2600 and you could take chips and every thing exept for 7805 or 740t 5v v regulator cap and dioeds and then scratch b/w switch foil all off then same with the ch3/ch4 or ch2 or ch3 switch depending on witch rf mod it had then you could since the flashback II has composite video out anyway you could just use ch3 switch for b/w switch and the b/w switch for built in / cart mode since its a single throw double pole switch w two in one switches in one switch even though atari only used both switches as 1 jumper to gnd to turn on color or off but if you scratch foil off completely and use jumpers in a opposite kiddy corner pattern the top of one side and the exact opposite on the other side of the switch the bottom would be gnded then the other when one is on the other is off meaning when up posistion the top left side is shorted to gnd and the right bottom side is unshorted to ground .. as whell as when its down the top left side is unhooked from ground and the bottom right side is shorted to ground then all you have to do is pick spot on flashback II and swap if wrong its like having two switches or jumpers where one is on when the other is off.. changing from A10 on built in memmory and a10 pin 6 on external cartridge .. so please NOTE power to REAL Atari cartridge is always on when power pack is hooked unless when you turn off it does not run power to flashback II like mine does althouhg the voltage regulator is always powered up when plugged in to a REAL 2600 mother board cause it was belived that All power packs would blow up w out load and they would burn a winding out if no load was hooked to transfomer but thats only for CENTER TAP transformers made for zenith tv descramblers that had that problem cause they hummed and had a resonant frequency that would with out a load on the centertap would burn them selfs out either blowing a fuse or a winding not a fire hazard but would blow transformer up if not loaded ATARI POWER PACKS DONT HAVE THAT PROBLEM!!! at least I havent had that problem but it is for this reason I think the original 2600 had power going to the dioeds and capacitor and the voltage regulator all the time when plugged in and the power switch took the regulated 5v output after the cap and the dioed and switched the 5v on and off but did not cut power going into the voltage regulator thats why my dad always SAID 1st turn the Atari OFF then do not unplug power pack transformer from the ATARI but unplug it from the wall!!!!!!!!!!! then if you want to kill left over power in atari this is not nessisary unless you plan to work on pcb unplug power pack from jack on atari then turn atari on to see 1 second of power kill off from capacitor then you can clip a ground clip on the ground plane and then work on pcb then scratch all wires foil connections going to cart slot on said 2600 witch is dead and youre going to do flashback II mod cart mod to and scratch all cart slot foil patterns off you will have to unsolder cart slot connector from pcb to scratch top side be carefull not to ruin hole threw as this holds flashback II wires to cart slot connections and scratch away from actuall hole threw but make shure all connections to cart slot go no ware exept to them selfs then you can wire a 40 pin ide cable to the atari cart slot connections on old 2600 pcb if there is extra wire pull it off ribbon cable and keep for joystick wires then scratch p1 p2 joystick connections form foil the same way you might have to unsolder these too to get to all connections you have to unhook and scratch off pcb foil to allow connection to flashback II joystick inputs I found it easyer to just leave the flashback II joystick ports soldered on the original flashback pcb on and just add wires to old 2600 pcb then scratch a/b switches for p1 p2 off original 2600 old pcb and take one side according to witch one needed to gnd apororaite side to gnd when on a or b i cant remember but you will figure this out then hook to a b p2 p1 wires gnd anywhere!! then hook ch3 ch4 switch to b/w jumper where b/w switch hooked on original flashback console case was to ch3 switch on 2600 old pcb switch a 4 switch works better for this mod since the ch3 switch is on same plane as a/b switches and is not underneeth inside case where its hard to get to .. then take youre crappyiest 2600 case and use this or if youre into looks use the best one of youre 4 switchers remember the bottom piece would not make mutch difference in this because noone looks at the bottom piece they look at the top and the wood grain but if you are into really cool looking case mods then use youre best 2600 case then run video/audio wires out back threw rf hold witch can be snipped a little bigger to allow a rca to fit threw or you can unsolder but why then secure in rf wire pinch spots if possible and tie wrap to something that wont break then make shure you STEAL the RF modulator for repair of other 2600 since the flashback II wont use or need rf modulator and has composite out already you can remove RF mod WITCH is not same as a zenith cable box rf modulator witch takes composite video and sound and makes ch3 but the ATARI RF mod took chroma lumina or luma and sound and color composite all at the same time and made ch3 out of it not the same as zenith normal rf modulator so keep the original 2600 modulator for repair of any 2600's you might pick up on eb_Y or other auction site or gsale or any cool place that still has atari then take a semi big sandwitch zip lock type bag and once all works seal leaving wires for joy port cart slot and video/power and all other to come out of bag then put flashback II into bag so it wont short out on original 2600 pcb parts and put it on parts side of 2600 behind cart slot twords you when cart hole slot is at top put flashback under this benieth console but remove the rf cage since the flashback II has composite video it doesnt need rf cage for ch2 ch3 ch4 cause its COMPOSITE not RF! then it will fit perfectly inside a old 2600 that has bad chips or someting major blown then you can reuse pcb and switches for flashback and the b/w color switch is cool cause its two switches in one and at top of one wilst bottom of other side of same switch is other switch you can select built in memmory and cartridge with the b/w switch and use the channel selector switch on 4 switch machine to change b/w color mode on flashback II I have done this and it worked great and I think its better that I used a old 2600 cause A flashback II case would have probably overheated and would not have the correct power requirements to run the cartridge memmory and probably blow its power pack up fast since its only 300ma or something whimpy like that where the 2600 original one is like 500ma a 1/2 amp and has plenty of power exact amprage needed to run 2600 cart since thats what atari used and since it was 1978 you know its enough power! I also found in a keychain asteroids version there is a test jumper spot and pal/ntsc jumper but no other jumpers although I did once take a gemstick and wire it to a keychain and had it so the keychain witch stick broke on had real joystick hooked to it and it worked great and was easyer to use too! .. anyway enough ranting im tired and have stayed up past my bed time and am tired grammer sucks and no punctioation . but hey there is really no way to mod a plug play exept the flashback II since the flashback II was designed to be hacked then other ones are just epoxy blobs over the builtinto the motherboard chip witch makes it impossible to get to the rom and they probably dont want you to get to the rom but the game key probably would allow some kind of hacking cause the game key is a rom chip cart. so you would think a rom game key would load into a flashback II as nes on chip but no cause the nes on chip menu on flashback II is to select memmory lines on a10 on built in memmory address ranges not to run game cause game is built in and its then menu but a game key pcb might be hacked to run hacked game key or mabie a atari but since youcant get into the pcb chip on the board witch is covered w black epoxy blob keeping you from getting to wires I would give up on modding flashback devices to adding battery eliminator wires to a 5v power pack and running long wires to power and video/sound otherwise there seems to be no hack avalible untill someone figures out how to remove epoxy blob and access chip to dump it it would be easyer to hack a nes on chip super joy III joystick to run a atari flashback II on a custom cart w custom operating system and have custom multi in one cart w flashback II games on it as whell as a nother one that would load youre games but it would say adventure but load a nother 4k game in same address or just make a new menu w youre games and have that menu on same multi chip like multi cdrom/music cdrom data track0 is not audio and roms are after the nes on chip game selection menu rom so in a sence the flashback II is a nes on chip that selects a emulation menu witch is its own game then once you select game it loads game into nother rom space and then runs a emulation file on nes but uses special stella like sound but its not exactly same sound as pokey chip so if they do a flashback II ver II or flashback III w sd slot they should remove the crappy nes on chip crock and make a game system that just has all three atari2600 chips minitureized including all resistors and composite mod and stereo with jumper for mono then you have a harminy like chip for built in roms then youre roms go on sd stick or cart slot witch just has wires to cart slot and ONE jumper on or off for built in or cart or sd slot is part of built in menu you select rom from built in Sd memmory or youre sd stick and led would say reading red then when done turn green to let you know its done reading sd card.. then you could load sd card into nvram and remove and turn off and roms would stay then flashback III could have cart slot too but you only select one jumper on or off to pick carts or built in memmory but would have to turn off and back on to switch between built in sd or built in rom or sd ram and then would have to power off to select cart slot and if cart slot picked it would light up yellow led then when cart in green led light then you could use cart slot and power off then on and it would switch modes to use external cart making any cart interferance you could see when playing built in games would turn off power to cart slot so it would not cause interferance to games then if you switch to cart slot mode yellow light would light and you switch switch to on then yellow led would switch from yellow to orange then when you power off and back on w external cart switch on that led would be orange for a second then turn green showing rom load not power and this way you could have sd rom in nvram and cart loaded into ram and once loaded you could remove cart and run all roms on and in ram nvram w out sd cart or cart.. I nother words it would sound like a pain in the Butt to mod a plug play device..

wow we both answered at same time!! JINKS ..PS hi . NUKEY I GOT A cart made that works w hackem the one that starts out hackem w the yellow pacman on start screen chomping air then starts It works on REAL 2600 and the flashback COOL HUH.. also there is a cool store on hennipen called dusty pixels that has some loose Atari carts for under $5 a piece I already got a silver lable Combat and a Silver Lable MINI golf since I didnt have mini golf. I want to thank you for youre GREAT knowledge of Atari and youre extensive knowledge of Batribasic type Atari stuff too.. I had a 32 in one cart and heard they came w 2600 jr packages and one joystick in small red package to the UK as pal system to promote Atari 2600 and ACTIVISION GAMES to INcrease sales in the uk to bring back Atari It worked but tramail screwed that up along w commodore I think trameail had stock in MS back then and knew all a long if he trashed Atari and Commodore he could cash in on MICROSOFT stock whell we both should have bought some MS stock then and sold it today .. I also heard on BLOOMBERG microsoft might take a dive as Some other company might make them obsolete I wonder who it might be lets hope its not Apple unless Apple lets us run Atari emulation.

I think atari and activision made deal to promote both Atari And Activision in the UK and other parts of world who had PAL as a jr system witch came w a 32 in one cart and a jr atari and one joystick instead of pacman!.. as far as ant party I have not played it but assume its some copy varaint of a 800 game witch you run around w raid type spray can killing ants on a picknik table on a picknic like PICKNIK paranoia game.. I dont know anout ant party untill I play it I ll have to download it and try it. oh also if you have a older hauppauge tv tuner for youre computer and youre atari puts out USA NTSC ch3 you can put youre tv tuner on ch3 then select non usa tv region pick japan pal and put it on ch3 then it will run the pal 32 in one cart w out flipping and fit on screen cool huh.

I like ay-3-85xx systems and have a 1024 page book with schematics for electronics and it has a section on ay-3-8500 chips in it including a gun circut so I like any games that use that chipset I also found a couple of places that still have that chip as nos anyway I think its worth $50 cause where are you going to find a nother one.. the section is called tv games .

Which means that when you play an old school game that has timing set up to the fixed frequency of an old school monitor, it doesn't synch. You end up having skipped frames or other timing issues. It is all very technical, and I only understand it at a REAL high level. Basically like everything else with electronics... the frequencies are waves... and if the waves are cresting and falling at the exact same time, everything is good. But if one wave is TIGHTER than the other wave, eventually one wave is going to be at a peak while the other is at a valley, and whatever data is supposed to be happening right there (a memory read, a display update, gobbling a dot or slamming your hammer down on a menacing fireball) is going to either be delayed or dropped. This is why purists prefer original hardware and chase down obscure 30 year old CRTs for the guts of their cabinets. (And you thought they just liked the authentic feeling scan-lines). There are ways to compensate for this in MAME with modern equipment, especially if you're not picky... and I'm not. I'm just stoked that I can have a VERY reasonable facsimile of my old school favorites in my home on a machine that is ALSO a reasonable facsimile of the original physical machines. The BIG one is to go into the default settings and alter the video and advance tabs. I forget exactly what tabs... but I think what I did was turned off anything that switched the default monitor resolution and selected a fixed frequency of 72... er... Mhz? Nope. Just Hertz. No kilo, mega, or giga here. I think this means they have a long "cycle"... big rolling waves. Anyhow... get that all set so that MAME doesn't try to switch resolutions or frequency, and set on Portrait mode, and you're good to go... with the limitations I mention above. At 70-ish Hertz, for example, Donkey Kong may seem like it plays a little FASTER than you remember it in the arcade. And indeed, that is exactly what is happening. A 72Hz wave has a shorter... cycle... period... period, I think that is it, than the 60ish Hz frequency of the original monitor. It is like watching a movie where the reel is playing just a LITTLE too fast... say, 40 fps instead of 30 fps. Some people can't stand that... I'm ok with it. every mode on my lcd monitor exept 1400x1050 60Hz when hiding modes it cant display looks fuzzy including 800x600 witch sucks its just i bigger verison of my compaq n610c 1400x1050 monitor it is widescreen though and i can get 1920x1080 to work but its fuzzy and not fullscreen. looks like 800x600 but who needs that when a dvd plays back it dont matter witch mode its in its a COMPUTER monitor not a TV so it will draw every pixel like a laptop not a tv .. The really weird thing is this monitor takes hdmi witch the guy who gave me the thing said its broke and wont work.... I said really $300 monitor cool ill take it I hooked it up to the vga connector and viola it worked fine it was loose and i tightened all screws and it works great now i dont have HDMI so i cant test it Now i have just delved into mame today as far as more modes I never thought it was a big deal untill i wanted to play 20pacgal again the reunion rom and found out about some weird mode problems w lcd... I am really starting to get mad at the fact that in 800x600 60Hz its not 60Hz it speeds up in mame32 v0.35 beta it skips frames in asteroids and speeds up like youre pushing f8 this pisses me off cause it does the same thing in atari800.exe sometimes HMM DOES IT DO THIS DURING A NORMAL GAME LIKE UT2003???? it better not or they better reinvent the lcd memmory board cause would you want the throttle on youre video card to jump around during a presentation at work or whilst youre working the speed just jumps to 200% faster than it should then back again this can only lead to cache errors why cant people just admit they DONT know how to design a lcd screen. they did it on the laptop but the laptop over heats cause the vga chip has no heat synk or fan nor does the northgate witch gets as hot or hotter than the cpu on my n610c compaq laptop witch has the same 1400x1050 mode but on the laptop 800x600 looks great when its zoomed to full not native why cant they just do that w these new monitors I think its because noone has a clue and they just think its ok but they dont look past the inital windows wallpaper to see there getting screwed on modes.. this monitor says 1680x1050 59Hz or 60Hz whell I know when in 60Hz its really in 59Hz so if i put it into 120Hz will it really show it in 59Hz but put the video card into 120Hz mode but show it using 59Hz just like my tvview external does it on the tv at 53Hz or what ever composite mode the tv uses and it does it at 120Hz computer mode but the computer monitor shuts off showing tvview had the right idea on what to emulate and how... HMM when adding a custom mode to this monitor like 1680x1050 120Hz it adds the mode just fine but when i go into the mode the monitor sais OVER RANGE and shuts off SO if the regza tv does the same thing using the computer as an input then its full of crap and wont display at 120Hz but how am i going to test that w out using a regza tv to do it... I will have to guess it will show a 1920x1080 mode using hdmi but is it really 120hz

Excepting what Paranoid was discussing above, not really. The new MAME video rendering system eliminates the need for video mode switching and eliminates almost all sizing issues associated with the selection of different video resolutions. You can set your LCD for its native resolution and not worry about it. Even vertical games can now all scale properly to display a nice size picture on horizontal monitors. No more little square of video in the middle of the monitor, or clipped top/bottom HMM cool but WHAT version of mame are you refering to is it mame32 cause that would be great !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! also where did you get it and could you leave a link or just upload mame32 since no roms included you can redistrubute mame32 or mame! for informational and educational purposes..

You Could Damage a CRT if you make it HISS wrong using the wrong frequency (as one time I touched a adjustment on a tv that had been peed they told me you can try to fix it if you want but every one said I would not do that if I were you the piture was small I thought i could adjust it but every thing had a crystalized pee on it so i thought i could adjust it using a philips screwdriver on a adjustment pot inside it I said you told me the tv was crap I touched the screwdriver to the size pot and HISSS the tv blew up in a smoke cloud every one laughed then the tv started on FIRE w the cover off so i kicked the cord out of the wall Every one laughed rolling on the floor in amazement every one was laughing I said oh who cars I saved you the trouble of worrying about the tv starting on fire... .. anyway I had the same problem with my new wide screen LCD I have to use 1680X1450 or 1920x1450 to get it to look like a laptop w no fuzzy graphics fake lcd emulation mode and if i put it into native mode it goes puny so i have to use the HUGE modes AND I WAS PLAYING trying to play 20pacgal.zip you know 20 reunion rom just to see what it would look like and multi modes crashed then i futzed with mame modes using mame 32v0129 gdi no direct3d and found only a small amount of combinations work and I also found if i put the windows into 800x600 then run mame the window wont get chopped off I am almost wanting to put the old CRT back but this wide screen is so cool anyway mabie that might help... wow what a night mare i got my self into w this monitor... most computer monitors can take most modes but some just hiss in the wrong mode thats when they can fry them selfs but since then most monitors are protected from that cause I think they fixed that problem .. I did however get the lcd stuck once but all i did was unplug it and replug it then turn it on and it reset it self.. also sometimes the auto selection fixes it.. I just wish they would just make all I MEAN ALL MODES the LCD DOES WORKED LIKE 8 bit 16 bit 32 bit 640x480 60hz 70hz 80 hz 85 hz 1024x768 43H interlaced!! 60Hz 70Hz 72 Hz 80Hz and 85Hz 120Hz but real like 60Hz 1680x1450 looks on this monitor WHY T f_ck cant they just add a mode that actually runs at the frequency they say its running and get the lcd to DO it it seems weird that they cant get a smaller mode to work I guess the dots are super small and only work t the big modes .. the thing i do like about LCD is its cool always crisp when its in a native mode.. the thing i hate is when its not like 800x600 still looks fuzzy.. I guess the REAL arcade cabinets I have W real Arcade Crt's will suffice .. or I could just use my scan converter and use the TV. witch 1152x864 almost can be read but 640x480 works good on the tv.. BUT NOW THAT I HAVE A 22 INCH lcd wide screen computer monitor I dont have to hook to the tv anymore>>!!

Damn it stupid pasting just see the below post witch this was subposed to be a editied post of the lower one.. sorry.

I did have a pasting error when replying to a old post witch I tried fix it I appoligize..!! I like what Nukey did to Moon patrol I like the new version it looks really cool

Cool I found a link I was looking for today here it is it explains DELUXE walk thoughs and info you wanted. http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=12743 Cheats, Tricks and Bugs On any wave, if the last alien you kill is from the bottom two rows you will get a special 'fireworks' display and a 500 point bonus. If the bottom leftmost invader is the last killed, the bonus is 1,000 points. The number of points you get for the solid flying saucer (50 - 300) depends on how many shots you have fired in the wave. The 23rd shot and every 15th thereafter is worth 300 points if it hits the saucer. When there are eight or fewer invaders left, the flying saucers no longer appear. During the attract mode demo, repeatedly press the left, right, fire, 1 player start and 2 player start buttons simultaneously as fast as you can. After a few seconds the message "TAITO CORP." will appear beneath the high score. I got my sit down machine to do the TAITO CORP once a long time ago .. anyway I hope this info helps also more As the game progresses, provided there is 'room' for more invaders on the top row, the flying saucers will drop more invaders that will 'land' in the top row, (as noted below in the gameplay description). If you are able to shoot an invader as it drops from the flying saucer, (but before it 'lands' in the top row), the invader will not disappear as it usually would after being shot, instead it will 'fall', sideways, but very much intact, to the bottom of the playfield. Points scored for this anomaly are unconfirmed. The invader remains at the bottom of the playfield, and will chip away like the shields, by invader fire. It will remain there until the invader fire chips it away completely or until the wave is completed. Also unconfirmed is if you can let the falling invader hit your laser base. What is known is that once the invader has fallen, your laser base can pass right through the invader, it no longer threatens the base or hampers it in any way. Game Play The basic mechanics of play for the Space Invaders genre is simple: move your laser base left or right along the bottom of the screen and shoot the endless waves of aliens descending towards you. Their relentless march quickens as fewer and fewer aliens (each worth 30, 20 or 10 points, depending which type it is) remain. In this game, the best defense is a good offense -- your only other protection being four stationary shields which slowly get blown away by both you and the invaders. Besides aliens, you can also target the occasional flying saucer which traverses the top of the screen. For Space Invaders Deluxe, a few twists were added to this time-honored classic to make it more interesting and difficult. There are two different flying saucers. For example, one is steadily visible and worth a 'random' number of points between 50 and 300, the other blinks in and out and can only be hit when visible for 200 points. From the second wave on, various other features appear such as invaders that split into two when you shoot them and flying saucers that drop alien reinforcements. Miscellaneous Manufacturer: Midway Manufacturing Co. Year: 1980 - 1980 Class: Wide Release Genre: Space Type: Videogame Monitor: * Orientation: Vertical * Type: Raster: Standard Resolution * CRT: Black and White with a Color Overlay Conversion Class: Midway 8080 Number of Simultaneous Players: 1 Maximum number of Players: 2 Gameplay: Alternating Control Panel Layout: Single Player Sound: Amplified Mono (one channel) anyway there is not mutch more info to give about SPace invaders EXEPT that I found a easter egg in it self in that on the original arcade pcb both deluxe and regular boards MIDWAYS at least If you short pin a2 pin 5 to ground instead of shorting center tap to gnd on slam switch it TILTS saving high score and credits... I have done this to my cabinet witch you can see in the picture... Its a non deluxe cabinet but has the deluxe pcb board set I was going to convert it back to non deluxe space invaders but making 9316 rom set to work in a TMS2716 configuration would require soldering custom double piggy back sockets and be to mutch of a pain in the but so ill leave it deluxe.PART II.. E ANYWAY it looks great nukey what ever you choose to do to space invaders is going to be better than Atari had in 1979 for the 2600..

Cool you did a really good job on hacking a 2600 game witch I tought was really lame at 1st but now I might play it now.. ALso It reminds me of a way to get demo mode in atari800 you push up left and fire at same time and then push 1 then it starts a demo mode.. I havent done it in a long time though..

I know I was tired sorry I also editied the swearing.. Any way mabie the game just locked up I cant remember but I do remember seeing a tape player inside and the operator said crap it ate the tape I thought what a crappy game system...

Whell I do know that hackem works on the flashback II but pitfall II dont the indy 500x hack does work!! as does Gorf space invaders asteroids and frogger although the sound in frogger is weak.. .. ALSO A weird thing I found out one day on a normal 2600 I was trying to use a weak power pack w only like 200Ma and it got hot so i added a nother one in parralel to the one i had and the music in pitfall II went faster!!!!!!!!!! .. combat rock works too..on the flashshback II SO i would assume normal Combat would work 2 circus atari works a lot of 2 to 8k games work on the flashback but bank switch games like PITFALL II wont work .. I did get snoopy to work though.. also ALWAYS START the flashback II in the flashback built in games mode with the cart plugged in then switch to cart mode w the power on after you started a flashback II game then switch to cart mode !! this is realy cool when you switch from a normal fb II game to a hacked homebrew game it switches only the graphics in the rock game I made where i hacked asteroids to look like aw's its cool.. now I know why they call it the flashback YOu can FLASH back to the original game ..A cool thing to do is get an original missile command 2600 game cart and put it in then put fb in fb built in mode then start missile command then flip to cart mode but keep flashing between built in mode and missile command cart it once and a while will chunk and you will get smart bombs comming UP constantly and the score will sometimes just roll over over and over again But the smart bombs comming up constantly is cool and yet scary at the same time cause it was just sitting there doing nothing once and then they just came going up I immedatly grabbed the joystick and started playing I was napping at the time when they came thats why i got scared It was still cool...

the pOWER PACK FOR THE FLASHBACK II is a just a dc power pack although all you need is 5vDC to run the Flashback II I have since put my flashback II inside a old Atari 2600 case and am using a 9v DC 500Ma power pack and the lm3905 voltage regulator and the original atari 2600 capacitor to get it to 5v DC for the power input but the flashback II is a 9v DC 200Ma power pack I would suggest using a 500Ma power pack If you plan to do the mod since the atari carts and 2732/64/256 chips take more power but if you dont do the Cart mod you should be fine w a 9vDC 200Ma I would just get a 500Ma power pack check youre thrift or Good will they usually have lots of {(ansewering machines just make shure + in the middle and DC some answering machines power packs are AC 9v and would need a rectifire bridge and capacitor to make DC way to mutch work when you could just find a DC power pack.) or cordless phones with power packs all over the place.. GOOD LUCK. oh ps I remembered where I saw one http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/151738-anyone-have-a-fb2-power-supply-pic/ it was here a long time ago in the picture!! Also there is a 5v voltage regulator inside the flashback II thats why I opted to reuse a broken 2600 for its cart slot and its power capacitor and the fact that I had a old funvision power pack witch is a 9v 500ma power pack that plugs into a 2600 nicely its kind of a pain but if youre going to do the cart mod you might as whell put the whole thing inside a old non working 2600 .. I just used the b/w switch on the old 2600 for built in/cart and the ch3 switch for b/w it was almost as hard to solder the cart wires as it was to solder the joystick inputs.. at least the a/b switches just short to gnd..

Whell it seems like there is a open(disconnected wire on the bw/color switch ) you should see if there is a loose connection on the switch inside cause sometimes a wire can come off the switch then it would only play in b/w but the good news is in Adventure II you can see in the mazes cause it inverts the colors.. Space Dual is just like space war but it used to be a HUGE arcade game look it up on google you had a almost real looking YOKE and it was two player it was kind of fun It was a long time ago last time I played it it was 1980 something. ALso check here there might be some info on FB II games http://www.digitpress.com/eastereggs/pnpflashback2.htm

I have a Commodore Pet computer I got for under $20 at a thrift store YES IT WORKS but would cost $100 or more to ship I also have a cassette recorder that works .. I dont think I want to Sell the Commodore pet computer but if someone offered $100 or more mabie I would sell it I dont know how mutch its worth but I do Know they weigh a lot and would cost more than its worth to ship it.. But I would not claim it was worth more than it was its probably not worth more than $40 anyway..

That Atari is more rare than they are saying think about it all the other atari's are NORMAL and not nto for reasale you should ask the guy on ebay who sells pong units w gold chips weather its worth any more than a normal atari 2600.. plus you have the cool switches...

Wow In Minnesota Its way differnt I always see Atari Stuff at thrift stores the other day I got 10 game joystick atari for $4 and over the years most of my Atari carts I have picked up at goodwill Once I even picked up a Atari 810 disk drive unit !!!!! I forgot how mutch i payed ALSO I once found a atari 48k upgrade module!!! and I never used it then about a year a go I decided to try the mod and it worked and I sold a Atari 400 on ebay after I did the mod.. Also I got a lot of loose carts from thrift stores the Good news is Good will at least the one by my house always only charges 80¢ for tapes and atari carts.. NOW once and a while ill see a genisis or a Nintendo or some genisis carts... I always see paddle games like those jaks ones and the unique thrift store alyways has plug play paddle type games . anyway Good luck. also look in house wares where they have books and records sometimes they stick carts on the shelfs with small dishes and kids toys...

good news for atari 410 owners here http://www.turntableneedles.com/find10.asp click Atari then 410 they actually have belts! for the Atari Tape recorder If i only found this site 20 years ago!!!>.