awace

I could make one using the MR do cabinet w converted thumb mouse but would have to change a fake jamma connector. if you really want a video I will have to hook up the wico control ill just take a picture of that since i think its still connected to arkanoid pcb i have since forgot about it I dont have $70 for a happ controls REAL spinner w gear reduction and purple/black custom hard coated knob ewwww cooool mabie a chrome one! completeed?? u have video of youre cabinet? ill take a picture of mine now i want to play Bk birdie king II anyway!!! brb have to change out power supply . ohhh crap 1st mabie I should take before pictures of power supply and huge MIDWAY transformer im going to scrap for copper! then i can take pics of control panel. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...bayphotohosting try that you would like it the red wire gets 5v the black goes to GND and there is up down left right ok each roller has a up down or left right infre red recive led for each direction and one transmiter 5v+ that opto hole sees.

I wish you would have posted that the 1st time the on off switch 1 switch 2 connectors switch broke off brothers kids DS I replaced w a locking momentary switch w lock removed so it stays off untill pushed ..... I would have liked the peace symbol screw driver though thanks for the link!!!

I could make one using the MR do cabinet w converted thumb mouse but would have to change a fake jamma connector. if you really want a video I will have to hook up the wico control ill just take a picture of that since i think its still connected to arkanoid pcb i have since forgot about it I dont have $70 for a happ controls REAL spinner w gear reduction and purple/black custom hard coated knob ewwww cooool mabie a chrome one!

hmm double hmm on the actual wheel readers there are three led type thingies one is a infra red transmiter like on remote control on youre tv remote witch takes 5v dc the other 2 are receiver leds ok not led's but ir receiver and ir transmiter .. i dont know the names of the led type things but i do know for my arcade birdie KING II it says joystick inputs whell its trackball inputs and for a game like tempest I could see the problem might lie in that those happ controls ones you see on ebay for $70 are gear reduction ones witch go super fast at the opto wheel witch might be why covering holes w black stuff pruduces faster pulses but less of them so i assume if you can remove black stuff it would mean its reversable?? is this making sence or am i rambling again.

DROOOL AS THAT WOULD MAKE A EXELENT Arkanoid controler for my arkanoid arcade pcb and there is already a hole in my data east cabinet w a notch in ring hole for mounting sutch device..... I was using a wico arcade birdie king trackball then found out when i ripped the Atari black trackball that the berings were not the same size boo hoo but i did steal the black ball and swap it w the white wico one and both seem to work great now.. looks like you did a good job.. Question are you going to need the charactor generator sony thingie cause I would like to know if the key switches are indvidual as my data east cabinet's start buttons are single keybaord buttons... and i need 2 of them if not no biggie .. since the spinner you took from the sony is exaclty wired like i thought it was red 5v+ black gnd and up down or left right depending on how you use it... you could if you needed use a crappy old mouse scroll opto to use on sony if you ever needed to use it I seem to think you only wanted it for the spinner ...?

WOw you have a Great basement I was lead here by a thread lead me here I only have like 1 blue rubber maid standard sized TUB plump full of Atari Stuff. I also have a ½ tub of modem a thiland dial up mpp modem dials pulse faster than touch tone used to be and some 850 modules.. I envey you having a basement . I bet You could make a bundle selling schamtic like PLANS construction pdfs of blue prints on a auction site and make a lot of $ easly!.. I like how the Red 1982/3/4 newer ones like jr pacman look and the 7800 ones silver cool too and the PULL handles on that brand the whole thing looks cool I also like how you removed some partitions to set upright so we could see the lable FACE hhm let see now on left top right being row 1 column 1 that would be cart named ? but row 4 column 14 15 16 and 17 is snooopy witch looks cool upright.. any plans to post complete listing???

My Brain locked up need a nap too many titles to try to infer from picutre I like finished basement looks cool dont know why that shelf is there but it looks as if it was really convinent for that cart rack.

check battery compartment connections once you get it open you might need to use two screw drivers one to pry wilst the other one unscrewing stripped door screw standoff witch broke off plastic you might need wire cutter SNIPPERS and start nibbling screw hole out once you get it open just snip off battery wires and use a 6v power dc power pack 5v should work but 6v ideal... reason i snip battery wires incase kid puts batteries in there just snipped off and then they plug in and works this usually requires a cheap brown or white extention cord to allow unit to be in same spot it was when on batteries..

hello I would if you still have the tube message chris25810 on ebay ask a question about a nother type chassis than the one you want so you are not interfering w current ebay acution example he was selling a 13 inch monitor so i asked about a k4600 series monitor chassis on the 13 inch auction in general question about monitor!!! and I found out he was only 20 miles away I drove over w cabnet since wiz wor has wheels and he said ok youre 3 boards from ebay were worth less than you paid junk but he said since i could use parts and flybacks were probably good exept the one i had had finnaly cracked must have been the day it started to rain at state fair when was in outside tent in midway!!! I remember that I played silverball mania pinball... anyway he said i usually get like $75 for that board I said i only have like $$ and need $ for gas he said ok if thats all you have in pocket was like more than ½off that was only cause i let him test my screen in his frogger bench tester!!! it was so cool to see frogger on my wiz wor screen I already changed it from horizontal to vertical just using brakets from home depot real easy if you have a helper to hold tube whilst you install brackets just long metal pieces w holes drilled in them to extend horizontal mount longer to hold tube verticly deguass coil not hooke and dont plan to gnd ok but still using the smaller MIDWAY transformer as existing isolation transformer!!!!!!!!!!! important to use line filter/isolation transformer on screen to seperate it from game pcb supply and game pcb via sync red blue green gnd . I had a k4616 series monitor and he said same thing chris has other types of montors too probably could get youre screen you used to have if you still have old tube if neck pins yoke and screen is not cracked and you know soldering and can remember witch wire goes where you could swap chassis pcb and get old one back on! then you would need vga to cga arcade or arcade to vga or jamma tv then use scan converter like tvview.. there are a lot of options you should think about what you want .. ? are you making a Galaga cabinet using side art stickers and control panel? and real arcade pcb. remember using a computer power supply just solder the ps on green wire from the atx connector and then u have crowbar saftey short circut power on reset type protection Normal arcade power supplys just short out FIRE HAZARD computer power supplys DONT HAVE THAT PROBLEM at least the new p4/athalon dual core type ones you dont probably need more than a old compaq power supply those do the power crow bar thing and squeal when you short them out plus you could use both arcade pcb and computer and just swap plug and use computer printer parralell switch and just snip off old printer cord and wire to screen then chop two more and hook one to computer and the other to galaga pcb then find a computer to cga converter pcb and u could use arcade monitor but jamma tv would allow you to use a tvview non pci external scan converter and you could just use tv w composite in and rf mod or just use a video input on newer tv you would then need cga to composite for the real galaga pcb!.. I have a tvview they are great ! on a 20 inch memmorex regular tv using my vcr since it only does ch3 or zenith cable box rf mod i can read 800x600 i can bareley read 1152x864 but it will do 2048x1536 at 200Hz you cant read it but it looks cool 1400x1050 added into custom mode on nvidia custom mode is cool I usually pick 640x480 or 800x600 when using my tv to surf net .. I had the tvview hooked http://pcpowerzone.com/tvmipcvico.html the device find on ebay or amazon cheaper I had it hooked to my space invaders monitor since i had chopped the video to the screen and added a rca female on screen side and male on pcb out side this way i could watch espn on my arcade cabinet nice grainy basket ball in b/w on my sylvaina super set!!!!!!! ok its a wells gardner but it says sylvaina on screen!!! .. i can do 800x600 and still read it i have to choose high contrast mode cause colors wont raster on b/w it just makes differnt patterns looks cool then i ripped it back out and repaired space invaders pcb took out computer amd k62 and replaced arcade 11-5-79 midway space invaders board w a deluxe space invaders board and deluxe cocktail II sound board and after $300 boards later off ebay to figure out all 8 lm3900's need chaned it now after new 330pF and 470pF not uF changed out now flyby ship hit noise works and i am using some huge cement/ceramic little devils resistors wirewound resitors to get 7.5v from 12v dc and sound amp never gets hot I also figured out most arcade sound amps come on w 5v and if you need 7.5v radio shack sells car lighter socket to 7.5v adaptors witch is safer than using 12v cause it wont over heat.. I know for a fact the hitachi chips in pacman need pure DC not centertaped ripple dc .. so if i was u i would think about weather u want mame cabinet or dedicated galaga but think about using vga to cga or v and cga to composite and tvview or computer monitor and cga to vga board... and use printer switch to swap arcade pcb and computer then use only one computer power supply plug and two computer supplys the green atx ps on wire to gnd then unsolder all but 12v 5v unles you need arcade space invaders or golden t4 you wont need -5v or 3.3v orange ones or white one. arcade supplys wont crowbar and will keep running and blow youre chips a computer power supply usually just shorts out and crow bars sqeeks and will reset if unpluged for 1 minnute.. an arcade one you cant turn it off or on its always putting out 12v it wont sence a short like computer power supply and we all know tolerances for computer power supplys dont need adjusting for 5v!!!!! GOOD LUCK

its cool man YEA now i need more Atari's mine is a Real 2600 but looked at it and noticed its two differnt kinds of cases the bottom is a puny 4 switcher w the super CAN RF sheild type and the top peice is a normal 4 swicher but when using a old Atari for the Case you can use the CH3 ch4 switch for b/w color and the color/bw switch for game built in chip select enable or cart slot enable and if you scrape whole b/w switch foil away in middle its single throw double pole it has two switches in one mine up is cart and down is built in so if the homebrew cart is in and i flip to it it usually boots if it was Started in the Flashback menu 1st and i chose game then it usually stays Today the switch got stick and one of the sides slider got stuck in the down postision and the internal crap crock was still connected and it made chunks NOW I WISH I WOULDNT HAVE mutilated the old Flashsback BUT I DID KEEP THE CASES if anywone needs a unbuthcarded flashback II case one has lable and the other one dont otherwise they look good . GEE BOTH THOSE Look the same to me from the front they both look great ...

the one i was just playing was cool the invisible ghosts were eaten up and i was like wow the walls came back on it was kind of trippy i wasnt expecting that game variation when trying on real cart burn test anyway were the invisible ghosts subposed to be lethal and the visible ones subposed to be blue? that sounds like typical dislexia now what would be super cool is if the invisible ones poped in and out for a while then music rebooted like ms pretzel does then the invisible ones poped in for a second then went back invisible color not important but pink would be default player missile color proably easyer then the other ghosts could be blue I bet that would take a whole line by line anaylys t figure that out huh. HOW THE HECK DID YOU FIT A game that you would think take up more than 8k into a 8k file/???? you must know Atari C abreviations for whole lines of code that only take 3 lines .. of code ANYWAY hats off to Nukey Shay Greatest Atari Programmer in this forum.!

redirect me to file and ill try it sicne i got 4 extra chips left over from HAmvention... Ill try it on Real 2600 if you want ..

A little off topic but on topic of GAME '''HACK'EM(.BIN''' Hello All Guess What I got A NEW EE PROM BURNER its a new willem my old one probably works dont have a clue old one is version V3.1 anyone want to make offer on old one I will make it deal.... anyway not why i posted.. THE real reason i posted here is I ACTUALLY took a dreamcatcher Homebrew Cart and burned a actuall CART of HACK'EM(.BIN and VIOLA it worked the new burner is version pcb3 jumper vpp jumper on vcc using 12v power pack jumper on VCC j6 on upper j7 on lower and ones next to socket on normal using 27c64 chips and since snoopy originally was 8k and so what my hacked crockrocks asteroid © 1981 hacked using hackomatic II by me was 8k i figured i would try hackem and by my surprise it actually burned and WORKED on BOTH FLASHBACK II witch sounds a little lamer than original atari 2600 A sears arcade II same 2600 guts just extra joy holes . PS. please PArdon my Grammer I was up all night futzing w WILLEM pcb35 only costed $16 plus SHipping on ebay. I thought it was to cheap to work but i guess (Thailand) or Kittikunkarnchang(Thailand)co.,LTD makes stuff not to expensive witch works good. PPS. OH yeah the Cart board im using says REv 12 © Chris Wilkson but i think i got it from Dream catcher I cant remember but it works good now to check out the Atari Age ©I mean ® Store If i get a nother one working Ill send it to Nukey if you want one Since i like it so mutch.. I love HACK'EM(.BIN it says 2005 and the < moves on start screen I wonder what if 8k=2764 than what does the new version need I wonder anyway it was a success I didnt think it would boot but it did!.. PPPSS I had same problem w open gl but finnally figured out has something to do w zoom all i do is reinstall stella ontop of it self and that fixes it if you get rid of stella.ini GOOD LUCK ************************************** UPDATE 4:53am june 3 friday 2011 ************************************** just switch to 800x600 and it seems to start..

Did you know i was playing Moon patrol at arcade once and the Deco cassette with the music tape ate it self wilst i was playing and it locked up the whole game I told arcade operator and he said ''aw crap'' then proceded to open game to show me the lame cassette tape witch he had to splice i forget weather rom loaded from tape witch i dont think it did but i think it was for the game music anyway he said he hated it I think the tape thing was DECO irem i forget I did however get a buntch of credits and tokens that day.... also Jacks to open pinball machine uses same tape for music and can get stuck too!!!

I hope you post some pictures and youre project comes out great... REMEMBER IF YOU HAVE EXTRA $$$ wells Gardner had some upto 800x600 arcade monitors that still do cga too so you could have mame cabinet and arcade galaga pcb and use jamma to connect computer to controls ..

oh i almost forgot I have a old IPAc controler chip for mame its ps2 but still probably works if you want it i could part w it for cheap if you plan to make mame cabinet it has 13 inputs its made from ultimarc also if you make mame cabinet i still have some unbutcherd usb thumb mouse trackballs witch you could use as usb trackballs.

The computer is not an issue for me because I get retired machines that are earmarked for disposal at no cost. I have a machine in my basement running Dr. DOS - it's probably around 500 MHz or so. remember dosbox 0.72 is a nother choice for dos witch works great for nesticle o43 complete w all sounds it buzzes a little but but it still works good. to note you can gut a computer trackball into a arcade trackball by doing this on trying to make a birdie king II board work w joystick inputs i got from mikes arcade as joystick inputs I found out they are actually trackball inputs not joystick inputs !! anyway scratch the up and down portains of the opto isolator wheel inputs from both sides up down left and right then the other single infra red led is the transmitter so its 5v+ on both wheels inputs then the output leds are up down left right I think if you scratch the +5v in to the wheel optoiso you can figure out witch ones to leave then the output ones are simple they are the ones not gnded to the chips on the mouse or trackball you can scratch the pcb traces then solder youre own wires so you would have 1 5v+ 2 up 3 down 4 left 5 right 6 pcb board ground or gnd.. i actually used a small usb trackball thumbwheel trackball mouse for my arcade cabinet and modifyed it to have the actuall arcade output instead of usb witch will never work again this is in p2's joystick hole and fits perfectly i mounted it w tie wraps and it seems to stay good. then the left joystick i replaced w new ms pacman joysick i got off ebay then i hooked up birdie king II 1st then mr do so if i change games i have to unplug jamma connectors witch i made from old broke arcade boards and made my own jamma finger boards witch work then i used original monitor plugs for bking II then used extra screen chasses video connectors for mr do so i can just unhook screen from each board not having to use the jamma connection for both games one game mr do uses almost the whole jamma connection the birdie king uses external amp cause i blew up 12v input and dont like using 12v on board in the 1st place luckally the mr do board uses its own amp but i can change from mr do and bking w jamma connector I guess i should change out so its totally jamma then i could leave the r g b sync and gnd hooked up for both games and just change jamma connector but im lazy .. I did however found a guy nammed chris on ebay in maplewood MN who can repair youre arcade monitor to new. I had changed from bking II to mr do and had power on when flipping YOKE wires on screen cause mr do is upside down compared to bking II and blew motherboard on arcade monitor almost threw it out untill i asked him about a 13 inch screen he had and he said he repairs screens 19 inch k4600 series too mine is a 4600 series its not the exact same number but he had a new chassis motherboard witch looked like it had just been manafactured and cleaned it was tested and new and worked great SO now w the old cabinet being from a WIZ wor with burnin and klax burn in it now plays mr do and birdie king II . I also changed it from horizontal to veritical went to home depot and got some brackets and some screws and carrage bolt and nuts and lock washers and viola i changed it from horizontal to vertical I never hooked the degauss coil back up and dont need it anyway I can use my solder gun and wave it by to do that.. ALSO I also got a Data east cabinet off ebay had to drive from MN to boarder of Kansas iowa to pick it up got two for $70 it was worth it now i got screen 13 inch off ebay new from slot machine has 2 pits in glass but when inside cabinet you cant see and they dont look like scratches and you cant even see them then i finnally got the pacman pcb to fit into the cabinet this was a royal pain in the butt but i finnally got it to work had to remove a socket on board to make it fit SO if i change roms in pacman i can get Miss packman PLUS © 1982/1983 Midway namco not for hire ms pacman normal dut board and regular pacman the blunt fruit roms are in roms 5e and 5f the maze and ms pacman are in daughter board... I wish i could combine all roms to make 4 in one board w misspackman + .. SO i have 3 arcade cabinets the 1st one being Space invaders PArt II deluxe Midway in cabinet shown in my avatar a data east cabinet runnning pacman and a wiz wor stand up w rare Mrdo marquee yellow.. GOOD LUCK if you need any tips or mame32 version 067 or old mame32 for asteroids or any of my mame versions that let you skip disclaimers let me know..

wow as far as i know the games were subposed to be the same exept for the color factor I will have to load up mame again.

I do that with the 8-bit HSC... but I also have permission from one of the folks from Atarimania, where I get the ROMs. I don't know what the "legality" is of doing that... but it might not be a bad idea, if we could do that too. unless you plan to SELL the roms you probably Wont have Taito on youre butt but they still own the © and Mikes arcade sells multi invader rom boards but they are only for use on Real Midway invader boards since youre all playing for informational and educational purposesses and not selling the roms for use on Real Hardware witch comes to a thought about PAcman roms on Ebay witch are COPYS and are ONLY for use for REAL pacman Midway boards witch means unless you are making BOOTLEG original Midway pcb's I wouldnot worry a bit about posting mame roms for Space invaders BESIDES I if i ever get a usb burner could use some new games to play on my Real hardware the game play is totally differnt on a Midway pcb than mame cause when they go left they go slower than when they go right witch means when they go DOWN they go faster since Space invaders actually write sprites sideways on the tv meaning if you want to play correctly hook computer to youre tv then input mame.exe c:\invaders invaders -soundcard 1 -noscanlines -rol 1 -skip_gameinfo -skip_disclaimer -double and enjoy... i actually hooked my arcade cabinet to my tv once to see what it looked like it was cool . I also wonder why mame never implemented the PRESET MODE game witch i think is actually cheating so with preset mode shut off and chip b2 pin 5 a real tilt instead of shorting center tap of transformer to gnd all you have to do is gnd pin 6 on sound card on left side and it boots! so lets start A NOTHER high score contest.. starting w 2 credits NO TAX NEEDED its a 1 player game twice1!!! 2 credits best of both games 1 player then after 2 credits lets see how many more credits and what the high score is before we all get sleepy when someone responds and i respond to it then contest will start it will be unoficiall unless the mod of this contest wants to start a nother SI contest THEN onto SSI. but that would be harder cause in the Rainbow foods we always used to give player's quarters and get change for them to keep them going I remember at least 10 boards on SI on real game.. on SI DELUXE PART II MIDWAY version i played to past 5000 points just to get into high score table!!!!! also to fix sounds the 330pF caps and the 470pF caps require you to play wilst soldereing capacitors on to see sounds makes fixing a pain in the butt but remember pin 13 on main chip does a hold function I spent $400 on pcb boards on ebay to fix my machine had space encounter running once but sold off chips and fixed someone elses board once..

Part II is made by Midway and SID is made by Taito you have it backwards I have a MIDWAY cocktail II space invaders DELUXE motherboard it boots to Part II cause Tatio made Midway cause of a licencing issue make it say PART II although you are correct in that the game roms are swapped in what game you play lame huh.. also on my cocktail cabinet if you push p1 p2 start fire p1 p2 and left right at same time on p1 and p2 control panel the high score changes to made by TAITO! witch is cool .. ALso i have a question can i just play the REAL thing and get into contest as it would be impossible to cheat.. I have roms D E F G H cause it is deluxe part II the cabinet is a original space invaders and has original glass I did how ever remove power supply and used a old 486 one and soldered it to MB and removed old power supply and use 12v only for the lights then 5v 5v 12v -5v and last 3 gnd and the last one is video composite out so i can unplug screen and hook to vcr if i want to watch tv on my arcade cabinet this is because space invaders uses a b/w sylvania wells gardner screen basicly a b/w tv w out tuner I actually played atari on it once it was cool. But since its a game youre playing here can you start a 2nd round so i can join up I always seem to miss the fun contests.. you can see a picture of it in my avatar..

in witch memmory region do i program a 8k rom to on my burner I see you all talking about $1000 if i wanted to burn a eeprom do i need to erase all rom spots on the eeprom burner to empty it to beable to send it new info instead of burning info from last copy. $1000-$13FF mirrored at $1400-$17FF, $1800-$1BFF, and $1C00-$1FFF? It would be cool to have 1K carts (and even 512 byte carts so if i wanted to burn a combat rock cart witch do i burn to $1000-$13FF and $1400-$17FF I dont even know what this means but i think when i got the eeprom burner it was empty thats why i was able to burn asteroids to it then once i tried to change rom after getting erased chip witch was blank but i dont think the rom in the eeprom burner where you store file before burning to eerpom was not erased properly then i burned a nother game not asteroids and it loaded asteroids for 2 seconds then stopped i was like wondering if i forgot to erase eeprom memmory in the burner and mabie it has asteroids stuck in $1000-$13FF so my question is this for combat rock into a 27?? chip what do i need for a blank eeprom and what address do i erase before i program and where do i program it to this might help me. thanks.

Thanks for getting back.I found #21, after correcting my pinout problem at the cartrige side.pin 1 is bottom right corner thru 12, going left.I had wired the bottom row left to right!I didn't refer to the pinout in the FAQ.thanks everything is working. Why the 0 ohm resistor? do I need this with the switch mod? thanks again-"e" the zero ohm resistor turns on the built in memmory so it probably turns the chip enable on and off so when you switch to cart it turns off the built in memmory anyway the switch used to switch between built in and carts is a single throw double pole meaning it has two switches built into one switch one on the right side and a nother on the left side I just scrapped the whole black and white and color switch completly off the motherboard on my cabinet i used a old 2600 witch was toast and scratched the cart slot too every pin on top and bottom so i could solder them to flashback II I had to seperate the both sides of b/w switch but left the gnd then finnally figured out how to hook it up I had to swap one side to get it to work but it looks exactly like a normal 2600 from the outside but now has a built in flashback II I also decided to use the power switch differtnly than it was normaly wired so i scratched that too and made power always on then took 5v after the output of the lm340t(7805) voltage regulator after the capacitor so the power switch unhooked from the capacitor output so if you plugged it in the power pack would have a load as one time a zenith power pack blew up but i think that was cause it had a center tap! anyway i used the ch3 ch4 switch for b/w and color on the flashback II and also scrathced the whole joystick 1 and 2 controlers and dificulty switches off too at least those goto gnd so that was only one wire needed for difficlty a and b then the reset button and select button was easy too just one small wire to gnd then that works too. so i snipped then black and white sticker a little so it says b/m and cart not flipping the w over and using it as a m b/m means built in memmory and c means cart so only for a small amount of sticker missing from color/bw switch you cant tell the differnce its a 4 switcher so the ch3 switch is on back making it easyer to get to than if it was a old heavy sixer and the ch3 swtich was on bottom threw hole you needed a long screwdriver to change so this is easyer. GOOD LUCK. I think you have the most impossible hard hack version Flashback II board I tried it once and got the switch screwed up I did however load up tank once but didnt know about the zero ohm reistor SO i couldnt turn off the built in memmory and had yars revenge like chunks on the screen I called electronic interferance witch was cause i didnt know the switch was double pole meaning two switched simultanously must be switched to change from built in d external I did get tank to work but never found out about the 2nd switched line to turn off built in memmory the other switch i guess i found must have been pin 6 on cart chip enable cause unless on the working rev c the one w the jumpers and markings easy to mod one i put into the 2600 the other one is toast I do have 2 extra cases for flashback II'2 one w sticker one w out both in pretty good condition. anyway when you play you can get the b/w switch just between the two outputs and get one to stick before it completly turns off and you can see that same interferance i saw also if you do switch it all the way off and goto built in memmory and leave cart in you can see a small amount of rf interferance from the file running in cart on game running in built in memmory this is like the left side anyway if you unplug cart it goes away more .. GOOD LUCK pleas post picture of finished product!

Wow....People that don't know the difference between flipperless pinball (yeah, that's what they were called, and how they were played) and flippered pinball, and the fact that they are played differently are kinda interesting. Bet your one of those who also doesn't know the difference between Football and Rugby, or Pool and Nine ball (or any number of other games that have the same roots but are different games) CONFUSING skiming with using an automatic singer reading machine can fuck someone up I did not mean to swaer but i had to get the grammer right. When i was in grade school we had these tape recorders hooked to singer reading machines witch took film strips and had the tape recorder control frame advance of words but the rate at in witch the shutter blocked the word then lifted to the right uncovering the word was controled by a pot you tuned making it move faster witch would advance faster. Anyway i cant remember all but i confused skiming with reading so it still takes me 5 times to READ it then 5 more to actually let it sink in and comprehend the whole paragrah . wow my grammer sucks and so does my PUNKT . i just realized you gave me 7 times more crap cause i didnt even read youre reply before judgeing it im glad i re read it I relized you already stated .. Wow....People that don't know the difference between flipperless pinball (yeah, that's what they were called, and how they were played) and flippered pinball, and the fact that they are played differently are kinda interesting. .. whats even more interesting is i learned how to use the sidebar of side kick its a no brainer. onto PLYMOUTH JR high to clean the Cassette tape heads on the cassette copyier hmm job posibility thats the job i wanted anyway was AV department cause thats always fun and easy for me plus i might learn something from the cable company about telecaptions I didnt know.

whell i learned something about c-mos the other day . remember the differnce between c-mos and rom a rom is burned in and stays but c-mos can be updated. whell shorting c-mos chip on laptop killed drive lock password and got it to detect new memmory and i figured out i blew a memmory chip dropping it on floor and getting static snap anway c-mos chip in laptop had nothing to do w memmory being bad but figuring out memmory was bad and i had 2 128M sticks and that it booted w only one made me happy cause c-mos chip was still GOOD the good news was that the square chip did what i thought it would since it was square it was made more like a cpu it was not c-mos fully only the part that took the boot sector and the stuff you changed were voiltile meaning if you short it out or turn it off it had a back up copy in a nother portion of it self and could have differnt sections if c-mos witch was safe more because only the part that was to be changed would courrupt that made me remember blowing up pitfall II trying to make it work on flashback II my 1st attempt. I got it working I just had one of the sides of the select built in memmory and cart memmory backwards cause i could see tank but whole screen was full of interference like yars revenge now i know from next attempt the color/bw switch is what i used got stuck between on and off and part of the right or left dp dt double pole double single throw wow single throw means on off not off on up or on down thats a double throw hmm ok anyway one side was still connected so internal memmory was still on my working flashback II mod works backwards instead of shutting pin 6 off on built in it only shuts off the external cart anwyay i saw same interferance and said to my self damn i could have fixed flashback II but i didnt know about atari age yet I could have sent it to someone and had them show me witch wire i screwed up on I also didnt know pitfall II wasnt compatible w flashback II now its blown hmm if someone could just bankswitch it to a single chip it might boot. if i run snoopy in my bootleg board on flashback it always boots when going from flashback memmory back to cart hole even if flashback memmory gets stuck in nes on chip menu crock hmm i think that flashback ii is just a nintendo with a atari sound blaster (soundblaster meaning sound circutry) a soundblaster has to have a yamaha chip with wav tables an atari has pokey and riot chips for sound not emulated but i wonder if thats why the keychains sound crappy is cause the sound wouldnt have fit every one complains about sound being crappy on keychain but did you ever think atari made those versions as collector versions and when playing on sutch small hardware w less memory the sound degrades I was playing atari on a toshiba someone gave me the other day it had harmen karden speakers and is loud I finnaly realized the volume knob on the front of laptop cause playing mp3 then was trying to get snoopy using DOS stella the old version from my 1st cd rom burn disk i still have from old 6x 4x 2x rw cd rom burner the dos version of stella cant play bezerk voice enchanced but windows version stella x witch happens to work win 98 just fine so does avast so windows 98 is not dead !!!! anyway some games actually do have crappy sound w the old dos version of stella like some of those cool whamma type demos the sound is crappy so i wonder if the keychain is whimping on sound or is it a differnt version I know i wish worlords had more levels so you could be the guy who always gets the ball. or that there could be a paddle/pot connection for player 2 and a player 2 jumper like the 1 player paddle i modded w real atari paddles , the funny thing my brother snapped a whole in paddle button 2nd night of hanukkah be broke fire button on p1 paddle i had to flip the button but it still works i had to change out that whole paddle cause it was to brittle good thing my atari stuff is in rubbermaid tote!.

Tilting, bumping, wiggling, etc... is part of the game of pinball. They have sensors on the machines so that you don't exceed the mechanical limits of the thing. The reality is the physical element is there. I know if my ball is teetering on a pin, where one direction means lost ball, and the other keeps it in play, I'm gonna nudge! The best of the best when I was a kid all did it, and it is something to see. Of course, nobody has to do it, and the sensor is there for those that get abusive. All good. And, in other sports where the physical element is there, the good players use every bit of leverage they can, without running afoul of the rules. Either that is the way a person rolls, or it isn't, but it sure as heck isn't cheating. Another analogy is poker. It's all about the cards right? WRONG! What is said at the table, how it is said, when, with what bets, etc... all is a factor. Get somebody pissed, or drunk, or nervous, then take their chips, while trying to make sure you don't end up in the same state! I can think of lots of examples where that kind of thing comes into play. It just happens, and if somebody wants to compete, they've got to step up and be aware of it. That said, nothing more than a simple nudge is all it takes. No slamming, no abuse, no nothing. Many sensors don't allow any more than that anyway, rendering the point moot. To me, playing a game for a bit of fun means PLAYING the game. All elements considered, maybe even figuring out new ones. Patterns, tilts, funky control combinations, bugs, etc... A game is a simple experience. It really is what you make of it. I never went for the high score board as much as I did just pulling off fun stuff, whatever it was. Thats why he brought it up I must have been thinking about the anti cheat mech in the 1936 pinball machine. whell 1936 was the 1st pattent stamped on the 5¢ coin slot slide... that remind me def dumb blind kid shure plays a mean pinball now that i think about that machine i bet it was a bally cause the little notes inside the machine had the same fonts and were jagged like instruction cards found in my bally space invaders and wiz wor cabinet then one that says 110V had the same jagged edge and was labled the same way. I still love crimson and clover over and over I bet someone was smoking crimson clover and playing kennys clover I love that song the delay lines are so cool . want to hear a cool reverb like delay hook the tv tuner on your computer to stereo. hook youre computer to youre home stereo using the tape IN then take the tape out and run it into the hauppauge or other tv tuner composite audio in then cause the tv tuner is software mode it delays audio unless you turn off the capture in regedit for pvr it makes a howling eccho select windows 98 dangerous creatures explantion point for windows default default sound then do the delay open tv tuner put it on composite in then hook to stereo tape out hook computer speaker out to CD in then click speaker by clock and push mouse and hear the crock bird echho and reverb its cool. since there is a delay on the tv tuner and youre looking at same source the delay causes a audio delay its cool.