awace
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Posts posted by awace
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To start, I thought I'd put up one of the neatest things I've seen RE: hack/mod TV game.Check it oot:
http://www.domesticatedarcades.com/penny/index.html
I'm planning on doing something similar, although smaller with just a 12" TV or maybe even just a PSOne screen. I just have a small apartment, so size is definitely an issue. For the most part, hacking apart a TV game to use in this way is easy--most of the stuff inside is just switches that you can easily solder to and replace with whatever kind of buttons and sticks you like.
However, the Jaxx TV games with the "twist" joystick for Pole Position leave my limited electronics knowledge stumped.
Anyone got an idea how I could use its guts in a lil' arcade machine using an arcade joystick and maybe a spinner or a hacked Atari paddle/or off-the-shelf pot or something? If I could figure it out, I could build a groovy little steering wheel or maybe dismantle an old PC or Playstation steering wheel--maybe that's the replacement part option. I see them turn up fer cheep in thrifts/flea markets here and there, but it's the way the wiring will work that I don't get.
Lemme know folks!
why dont you just use the original joystick and just use some dry wall screws to attach to a hole in cabinet so you cant see anything exept the stick and ball!! this way you can KEEP THE TWIST FEATURE I assume the twist feature is just a left right switch .. GOOD LUCK..
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If I can put in my two cents. I was lucky enough to find someone who would mod my FB2 for me and it was definitely worth it. I have read my share of bad experiences some people have had buying 2600's and even if you get a unit in good condition, the RF connector can be tricky to work with for a newer TV.The FB2's joysticks are excellent and very durable, much more so than their original counterparts. The Composite connectors on the FB2 make for a much cleaner video signal. Also, you are using modern components as opposed to relying on circuits built over three decades ago. But admittedly it is worth noting that several games do not work in the FB2, that is definitely something to think about.
Unfortunately it looks like the person who modded my unit is not interested in doing it anymore so I can't forward interested parties to him. However, if anyone is willing to mod a FB2 I say appreciate that person for their offer. It's a tough job.
On the controlers they are easyer to play w cause they have more reliable rubber buttons but are actually 6 times thinner plastic take one apart and compare the thickness of the plastic !!! ..
PS . did they hook up the color/bw switch I used a old 2600 to mod mine and put it inside then used the power supply I modded the color/bw switch for the built in and cart games switch then i used the existing diff switches and the ch3/4 switch for bw/color since the FB has no rf and composite out i used the ch3 switch for the FB's color/bw switch!! also i used the broken 2600 board that i put the fb into to solder the cart connector onto the Fb this was a major pain in the but for soldering cause i had to scrape all of the pins off the motherboard from the original 2600 then I decided to use the existing switches and the joystick ports witch was a nother pain in the but .. It does work and i am happy w my mod..
I also tried it w a non b version fb and totally screwed it up so now i have 2 FB shells cases one is in good condition and the other one has the sticker for the buttons peeled the other one looks ok so if you need a case witch hasnt been butchared pm me and I might part w it for cheap.. My flashback works now does youre flashback built in and cart button hook to a real 2600 switch like mine does cause this can make for some real cool FLASHING NOT the power button cause that can be bad but i mean flashing from cart to built in games If you pick built in 1st then goto cart it works better I do this w missile command cause its cool cause its the same game you can switch between built in and cart w not mutch noticed but if i do it w my cart modded asteroids cart i made my self its cool the rocks simply change from rocks to the aw rocks the best flash is to pick a game like caverns of mars on the flashback built in memmory on 1st then switch to a game like missile command. it works best if you use a 2600 color/bw switch double pole double throw with single inpute i mean scratch pcb so both sides of the switch are seprate this causes a glitch in the switch making it possible to move the switch at the bottom color mode up just nudge it and I think one side disconnects leaving the other side on witch is werid but if you move it just right it goes between both built in and say missile command and is like pushing flash button in stella
I once saw a screen that said
this space intent;ionally left empty
i noted they spelled the word intentionally wrong witch was funny to me I wondered if they planned a extra game and or i had flashed between builtin and cart so many times before it locked up i made it think the built in memmory was empty...
mabie they were planning a game key and decided to make a FB instead...
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Also check the frame rate. In my experience, cards will usually combine fields anyway so 25 for PAL, 30 or 29.997 for NTSC.Reducing the resolution can sometimes help too. If e.g. you select 288 vertical for PAL, it should combine the 2 alternate fields and average them out.
I noticed this the other day when watching tv on my laptop i noticed it has a LAGGGG a delay worse than a lcd tv it even makes the audio on the computer delayed so you miss frames on the atari I loaded descaler and it helped a slight bit but not enough It did how ever let my play a pal game cause i could select japan pal for the tuner type witch helped stop flipping good luck I cant remember weather i fixed the issue but since i got a nother tv in my room i unhooked the tv tuner I dont have cable so there is no reason to even use it I only used the tv tuner to change channles fast and never thought of using it for atari I always just used a vcr then would use the computer tv tuner with the VCR on pause or kept rewinding it this way i could snap a pic on computer easyly you could use a computer camera too... I do remember when i had paltalk i switched to the tv tuner and had atari in my private room I never played cause my tv tuner is old and the lag is to mutch GO DLUCK THOUGH... my card had no adjustments for 29.999 I had a hauppauge witch was old.
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94,911Never was very good at this game.To make things harder, I had to play it on an emulator this time. I couldn't get my cart to work. How do you get to the second caverns?
You have to successfully complete the first cavern to gain access to the second.
if you wait in the lower cavern the long up down one wait for ballons then you can get the ring the cat and the diamond witch you have to Take a leap of faith like indiana jones i think its the 2nd one from the top on the right side then jump from almost the edge to the diamond room then its a pain cause you have to go up the left side to get to the wiggly cat guy then a door opens up harry jumps like more than 5 times then door opens he goes threw and you are on level 2 witch to me would seem to take a nother week to finish mabie 5 months.. level 2 is harder...
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71,693I picked up a few more gold bars. I'm doing better than i thought i would at this game.
I have a question tho. How come i can't jump over the rat in the pic below. He keeps pushing me off the screen.
you cant jump the squrell you have to go under all the way around but if you were to get on the other side then you can pass this is impossible unless you cheat ... witch you cant do w out w atatri800 ... wish you luck ...
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....i have to say the second part is 4 times harder than the first part
You got that right. I still haven't made it very far in the second cavern. This is mostly due to those bats that fly very eratic patterns. I just can't seem to figure them out.
if you walk off screen the bats reset! this can be teadus and a pain in the but I now remember the 2nd cave from the 800 witch is exactly the same rom as the 5200 as a 5200 is just a 400/800 w out keyboard!!....
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I just noticed something. It's possible to skip most, if not all, the side trips down the right side of the cavern any time one wishes. Now imagine the cavern is divided into three "levels", right, middle, and left. Right is the easiest, then middle, then left is the hard one. If you drop through the hole after the first scorpion, swim right, then follow the ladders a couple of levels down, it's possible to drop down the entire right side of the cavern and into the water. You will not collide with the bats or eel this way, and you will not lose 100 points when you hit the water. Climb the short ladder, go left, and ride a balloon to the bottom left platform. Work your way down the ladders again until they end, then run left and start climbing. At this point, you start picking up treasure. You will wind up back at the beginning in a few minutes. Grab Quickclaw and the squirrel along the way--you can't miss them. At this time, run all the way to the top right screen, past the scorpion and the frog, and grab the gold bar there. Go back almost to the start and drop into the water, grabbing the two gold bars on the river bed. Travel down the right level as normal, grabbing treasure, ride the balloons up, stopping at each level on the right side, then ride the last balloon to the top left. Grab Rhonda then work your way down, but when you get to the bottom, go back up to the nearest exit on the right. Ride a balloon back to top left and work your way to the second highest exit on the left. Stand far enough right that Harry just barely can jump over the edge of the platform, then take a leap of faith. Run left into that screen, snag the Raj, and you're done!What this does is get the hardest part out of the way first. That way if you're trying to learn it, or just trying for that 199,000 score, you don't waste as much time going through the easier areas just to get tore up when things get tough.
can you explane this w a video if possible or push prt screen w stella and save some snaps I know you cant get the squirel rodent from the right side but you can from the left also do you mean stay on the bottom and take balloon directly across..???..
did you get the diamond on the atari800 and get to level II???
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I say Pitfall is harder for me anyway cus i never finished and found all treasures.I've completed P2 numereous times with the perfect score though.I love pitfall II I just finished II on the atari 2600 emulator I kind of cheated using a hackmatic version i hacked so the head on pitfall harry was shorter this helped when confronting bats and birds although the birds couuld still hurt you .. I figured out that on the 2600 there is a whole level II missing as it locks up when you finish game!!!!!! so if you want to play more download pitfall II for the Atari800 and play past the diamond and the stick guy and get diamond and all other things and a level opens up to a nother level where frogs dont just jump they move across screen this is defantly where a emulator could come in handy especally where you could use the save state feature I remember playing pitfall II on the atari800 for 7 days straight I never finished it I assume it would take a month or 2 2 finish pitfall II 8bit I still like the original atari 2600 version of pitfall cause it brings back memmorys and is still fun I didnt know till today that the 2600 version only had the 1 level I never thought of using hackomatic to hack pitfall but the idea came to me and i said hmm I wonder if the 2600 version has 2 levels whell it dont that didnt take from the fun of trying though I think i still have some save states in my stella on my big machine with the hack it only took me 15 minnutes with out the hack it probably would have took me 2 hours just to climb the left latters where the bird/bat bird/bat bird bat level is anyway I love both games I am glad activision decided to make the 2600 version almost exactly like the 800 /400 version exept the music in the 800 is slight better . \\\
PS Note when playing atari 2600 Pitfall II if you increase the power going into the atari the music speeds UP.!!!
oh before i forget On the atari 800 I used to cheat!!! I had a drywall screw in the door switch then i would unplug the cart to the left leaving the right side slightly unhooked then I would push forward and I could walk left then FALL threw the walls then the music would go haywire it was cool although it had a sence of perfection to the haywire music and if you got a gold bar it would correct the music sometimes you would be swiming where there was no water above and below a level then you could goto the middle of the screen and kind of pop up and jump on latter witch was not there then fall back down in the water moslty you could swim left and the game would correct it self I did the cheat cause i DIDNT know when i got game from goodwill at 1st that the balloon level even existed then one day somone told me to wait for the ballon I said what balloon then i finnaly figured out the balloon and was able to play not having to cheat I was kind of mad i never had a manual for the game but it was still fun to play.
ALso Once i got to deliver a package to Activision on bury drive in Eden Praire MN one day I told one of the employees I loved Pitfall and I also told them I loved Pitfall II and played the game till i got to the 2nd level I also told them about the cheat and they said HOW did yo do that I told them I didnt know about the balloons untill somone told me about them they said wow I didint know people still used atari's anymore I said I still use my 800 a lot,.. I asked if there was a 3rd level and she said youll just have to Play to find out .
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Thank you its cool .
any info on what kind of file to send to burner is it bin2hex.exe at 7,1,none in intel hex then switch burner to binary and push program I am confused. or i dont know how to erase the ram in burner cause i keep getting the last chip i copied 1:1 HMM mabie i should e2 erase a chip then read it then try downloading from computer cause i would be filling empty ram ..
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Editing a post in Hack'em! / Hangly Man combinedI Decided to leave a link to NUKEY's Game since its HIS POST..
File(s)
Hack__Em.zip ( 114.21K ) Number of downloa
http://www.atariage.com/forums/index.php?a...amp;id=61452ds: 114
here is a nother link must be his latest version
http://www.atariage.com/forums/index.php?a...st&id=61452
i blantley just copyied the shortcut link from his 1st post.
Post in Hack'em! / Hangly Man combined RE:RE .
/s..
is there a version of hangly man I could purchase or is it just for download.??? I am new ok not super new but new enough here to not know..
I will try to behave I just get hyper sometimes when sleepy and rant a lot.
oh also you can click on topics on control panel and unsubscribe from email notifications for every time someone or youre self posts cause this can be really annoying I appoligize for bugging nukey so mutch on burning roms cause he obvibously dosnt have a burner and wouldnt know so I decided to make a new topic called buring roms to eeproms so if anywone has help please help..
PS >>PPS\,..,.
WAY to go nukey you are the greatest I worship youre Atari 2600 programming skills you made that pachack so realistic it looks almost arcade quality you could actually make a real arcade game out of a atari the way you made the game look so real and the mazes are awesome I espically like the way you made the ghost points they still dont take to long so you can eat all ghosts before they
''CHANGE BACK'' and you also did a great job emulating the pacplus i also thank you for making miss packman Plus © 1982/1983 midway so close to the real thing w the apple head ghosts and how in new versions you made the fruit better and the fruit on the new spot where the bonus is a great idea I guess in that game that seems to be the place where you could probably have pretty mutch any macro font you would like cause you have the whole area under ghost pen.. A Nother feature i liked is the pause/ b/w switch feature I like games that take advantage of the B/w switch there is so many games lacking use of the switch its a shame not more people thought of the B/W switch.
A nother point i have to make is my freind was watching me play atari the other day so we went threw all the GOOD games like football I actually got my but kicked at the end of the game at the begining i was wining then defender go up into the radar to jump to hyper space i didnt know that then we played night driver and some other games i showed him game 13 on missile command no points RF for rob fulup,
then I showed him pacman boy he agreed thats the stuped ist game atari or sears ever realesed I remember that christmas hannuka came early that year and sears forced atari to come out w pacman before both for the CHRISTMAS season I thought cool pacman I wanted one just for the lable and the box but when i tried it on the atari demo machine or the atari they had on display I thought to my self lame...
but when i saw youre game I showed steen and he said how the heck did someone get so good graphics into the atari w out more memmory on the atari he said is the game got more memmory in it I told him probably less than the 2 chip pitfall II and he said thats what atari should have had when pacman came out and i said noone knew what they knew now cause the lerning curve for atari was pretty mutch get game to work w as less memmory as possible cause in the 80's eeproms were expensive now a days just goto old computer junk pile and find some old pcb boards w eeproms or external modems have some and every c-mos chip on any 586 386 286 and slower probably has a eeprom chip plus most arcade games like birdie king II probably $20 on ebay would have 20 eeproms most 2732 and mrdo has 2764's so now people like nukey figured out the atari 2600 has more potentail just by squeezing in more code plus now that they have pal type chips and the 7404 and people make homwbrew games more often the bank switch routuines make the game beable to have way lots more lines of code this is what i think makes the atari 2600 way more sufisticated than people ever thought cause w say a 32k bankswitched game instead of a 8k pacman atari sears version . NUKEYS own game makes it look super realistic and since its got a new name he takes all credit. EVEN
PONG was licenced from MAGNAVOX but noone knew about it but since nukeys game has a differnt name he can do what he wants w it.. Its still the best new atari game ever to be a home brew considering it looks so real I like the hanglyman2 and the pacplus2 the mazes are correct and the fact that the mazes change on the levels is Really the best thing about it it keeps you from being board. I also like the intro/attrack marquee screens and the checkerboard boot thing and how it boots looking just like a Midway pacman or rally x board it really gives it a feel or realizim unmatched by any other atari Game COVER Game i ever seen....
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Progress!I took a 20ns 32KB SRAM from an old '486 and plugged it into an even older OSS cart, added a couple of gates for the write strobe, and tried it on my 800XL. It works! Using the 4-bit control register on the cart, I can switch between 4 banks of 8K. So now I have a small RAMcart, but I still have to add the video generator. I'd like to put it into a PAL but it might not fit. Can anyone suggest any free CPLD software and a cheap programmer?
the last number on the chip should not be a 20 it shoud be a 10 as in 10 nano.......!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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in the delete block menu it starts
RAM begin 00000
block size 00000
then it says
last Addr size 07fff
upper lim 07fff
then it says deleting I forgot that but dont care if it delete is but how do i delete the WHOLE 256K
cause then at least i know its ram is empty to accept new atari file not keep burning same old 1st 4 seconds of bank switch partial file to chip,
i think thats the problem
test ok 824 b1.60
i assume its version 824 b1.60
for the
dig
elec Portable Programmer model 824
.
i dont want to erase the c-mos(file it runs it self on just the area in ram it uses for uploads...)
i hope i cant screw it up this way..
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If your eprom still had 4 seconds of Asteroids after burning a different game to it then it obviously did not erase and the new programming simply screwed up the Asteroids code. I presume your burner has a blank check feature? Can you read the eprom from the burner and look into the buffer? If the eprom is indeed blank, the buffer will be full of FF's. If you see anything other than FF, the eprom is not blank.any idea where to tell eeprom burner to erase its ram before i send file
in the delete block menu it starts
RAM begin 00000
block size 00000
then it says
last Addr size 07fff
upper lim 07fff
then it says deleting I forgot that but dont care if it delete is but how do i delete the WHOLE 256K
cause then at least i know its ram is empty to accept new atari file not keep burning same old 1st 4 seconds of bank switch partial file to chip,
i think thats the problem
test ok 824 b1.60
i assume its version 824 b1.60
for the
dig
elec Portable Programmer model 824
.
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wow i thought i was asking how to send a .bin file to the burner not how i blew a fuse one day..i must need sleep.
6:52am after 7-4am BK shift..... mmmmmm bk breakfast 4pak shots... bacon egg and cheesy tots 9 pak...
no offence in my rants to any way i address people... DEVICE nak.... error-☺
syntax error in social skills.....
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wow i thought i was asking how to send a .bin file to the burner not how i blew a fuse one day..
i must need sleep.
6:52am after 7-4am BK shift..... mmmmmm bk breakfast 4pak shots... bacon egg and cheesy tots 9 pak...
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yes the burner was still on when the ups was beeping!
:twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted:but since the laptop was dieing i forgot about how i sent file and went outside to find power company then i found the gass station was locking people out cause there credit card stuff was down I told them i thought that was lame the phone company told me my dsl came out of EDNA I told the phone company ITS EDINA edna is the roundish phone hub/central office and furthermore the phone company lied anyway cause the DSLAM is in front of the city hall in st.louis park. like I thought the phone switch of the cityhall/police station /911 buildings
new dslam must have been knocked off too cause since laptop was on at the time i just moved it into the living room where the tv was shut off and the computer shut down and i left only the dsl and the laptop plugged in but the DSL was blinking DSL DSL DSL was red hmm crock if it was in edina then the dslam up the street wouldnt mean crap but I knew better my dial tone might dial out from edian but my dsl comes from down the block.. then i relized the ups battery must have been weak I was running the burner my sgi 19 inch computer monitor my 20 inch memmorex tv my yamaha stereo my vcr my memmorex dss sattalite box my computer my hp 855c printer my dsl power pack w GND PRONG lucky and dynex $5. best buy router from the HAMVENTION® and atari power pack (actually a smuckard bell speaker power pack used for my sears arcade II ) works great!!! then also the ups and the eeprom burner oh the answering machine all on one 15 amp circut breaker im my apt the other 20 goes to the kitchen for fridge toaster (off) and the microwave clock I dont think the sit down space invaders cocktail cabinet was on cause i was burning eeproms ... but the boomb i heard was at the exact moment was hyperly pushing function execute cuase i tought the power company was having problems being it was 3:39am i was super tired and thought over current ment it was getting to mutch current from power company whell it was cause it was pulling to mutch current cause chip enable was upside down and probably shorting 12v to gnd in the burner and it said over current but since i hyperly kept trying i must have sucked to mutch current and the burner wouldnt let me blow a chip backwards and since the ups was being use the ups just sent the current back viola boomb blew fuse outside .. this happend once before on a super hot august day when playing w space invaders cocktail at parents house and happend to short a sound amp wire to gnd at the exact moment the airconditioning came on and booooomb a fuse across the street blew SAME thing using ups the space invaders game was still on but ups was beeping and it got really hot quick cause I was sweatging and airconditioning didnt work cause fuse across the street on pole flipped down since i heard that really loud i was able to actaully see it instead of holiday
gas station telling me the box at roller garden blew.. this isnt the 1st time this had happend its actually the 3rd time a ups tried to pull more than they could supply!!!!! at old apt w was screwing around w small shoulder pack inverter and battery pack those BLUE and yellow ones
I was using small inverter to start up a ups witch coulndt self start... so i plugged it in i cant remember what caused the power failure that day it probably was the storm brewing that day but me and my room mate were already charging every battery in the house cause saturday night live was really good then boomb then we saw lighining we both went FUCK no saturday night live . LUCKALY i had a zenith tv i just obtained at thrift store witch was a 1980's tv w no degauss coil this ment no startup current inrush or i just unplugged the degauss coil on purpose anyway i could start that tv w the mini inverter then i blew the mini inverter on a stupid IBM computer monitor i should have known better .. anyway the big inverter came on when i holded the power switch for a long time and we watched satruday night live but before we screwed w the NSP power company guy threw the window HE SAID hey where did you get light I was holding a lamp plugged into the ups I told him its plugged into a upeen s he said ohh ... so naturally i went to store to get lantern battrey for ATari 2600 emergencys to hook to cap in case i had to play atari on a b/w 4 inch tv!!!! ,... that b/w tv now has a built in zenith cable box rf mod and a keychain video in box
so i can change from pong to asteroids keychain the astreoids keychain has been hooked to a cheap atari gemstick so i could actually play..
wow I must stop writing these before bed i rant to mutch but I dont care laugh it up..
:D :D :D :D control c control v
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D -
I am trying to burn a atari .bin file to a REAL eeprom burner and am having problems . I started w a snoopy cart i got from somone here it was only to be used to be erased to use for my asteroids hack witch i successfully did but now i want MORE games on other chips so far since that one day the power went off when i had one plugged in backwards in the burner i forgot what to send the burner . I have successfully sent it files at 7,2,none but i cant remember weather i send a .hex file using bin2hex or just send it original stella .bin type file in anyone has info on what to send burner please help. I tried it once and got a nother blank eeprom to take new file but when testing it it booted into asteroids again!!!!!!!!!! wtf then it crashed after 4 seconds of play I thought it might have been the pal bank switching chip w memmory stuck in it but who knows. I know it was blank cause i erased it w ultra violet light for 33 minnutes and it said check done also when i sent it a binary file in .hex format after chaning from bin2hex.exe i sent it a .hex file w burner in intel hex I havent tried ascii hex but thats next.OK... I'm having a _real_ tough time understanding what you're trying to do...
So, you have an EPROM programmer. Which programmer do you have? They're all quite different, and some need their data in Intel HEX format, and others accept binary data directly.
You say you plugged one chip in backwards and knocked out the programmer? Did it 'recover' when you removed the chip, or did you blow the fuse? Also, if you have a chip that has been powered backwards, it may never work again - it could have been damaged. I did that once and the die on the chip lit up like a lightbulb... thing never would erase completely after that.
33 minutes is a bit long, but might be OK depending on your eraser. You don't want to erase chips for too long, you can damage them.
-Ian
hmm whell actually the FUSE in a power transformer blew so the whole block went off I thought i caused it cause i pushed execute and the ups beeped and the power went off I wish i had wrote down what i did I think i sent it 7,2,none and ran bin2hex.exe and sent a hex file
I have a DIGELEC model 824 eeprom burner I left it in intel hex and it SAID blank check check done also it said after i put it into
7,1 or 7,2 it finnaly again said file done but i dont know exactly witch bin2hex kind of file i need cause none of the files i try to convert are exactly 4096 or 8k they are bigger so mabie i just need the correct bin2hex utility I can choose intel hex binary or ascii hex my dad said when he had his 8008 altair 8800 he said you need to send 7,1,none and send a .hex file cause something about not beaing able to send binary over serial ports ..
anyway I dont know weather i actually waited long enogh for the chip to erase even though it said blank check ok. one chip that still boots to asteroids and works is a SS m2764 I think my eeprom burner thinks those are SEQ brand I have a texas interuments
27c512 ok a tms 27c512 witch i can just use the burner to copy from it self to no problem but when i send i file to the eeprom burner they never boot i think it might be i dont know weather i was using xmodem realterm or older win95 version of hyperterm I cant remember cause after the power failuer i recharged the laptop battery went to sleep and forgot wtf i DID i still can use the atari cart thought it still works. the atari cart im using i got from someone here it has a pal chip on it it also says
© chris wilkson on the atari bootleg type cart the chip thats in it now is a nother tms 27c512 but i know it has nothing to do with the size of the chip it has to do w the kind of and the size of the file and how i send the file to the burner I know the burner still works cause all i did when i had the chip in backwards was just whimped out the last leg of the power pole green box outside when i kept trying to push program
I kept doing it despite the lights going slightly dim It was afte i got back and the lights were back on i noticed it put the blank chip in the atari cart backwards then into the burner upside down I was tired it was like 333am when i got the 1st successfull asteroids hack burned so i was trying to get hangly hack or 1player tank . mabie if you have a .hex file i could try mabie that would work. I know i am sending the eeprom file correctly cause it blinks then says file done so i got that right but here is its function menu ill walk you threw it.
when you turn on after test you push function then push 31 then execute witch is like a enter button then keep pushing execute and it says
format
INTEL-hex
keep pushing or use up down arrows to scroll threw
intel-hex
motoroloa
tektronics
BINARY
ASCII HEX <X>
signetics hex
mostek -Z80
then back to
INTEL-HEX
this i can understand but I assume its intel or ascii hex
my dad sais i should use 7,1,none instead of 8,1 to send hex files.
I think its 7,2,none I could be wrong what would u use.>??
then it goes even more
hit execute and menu goes further
RS-232C......................32
baud rate 9600
i left it there
half duplex
one stop bit i choose 2
number of bits 8 i changed it to 7 cause my dad said you cant send binary over serial and you cant send hex at 8 cause the 7,1 the ,1 is the 8 bit
I was lucky i told him about a altari 8800 emulator and it sparked some memmorys about his ice 80 mon 2708's he burned..
then the menu goes to
parity NONE i left it on none
then x on x off DESABLE I know what this does but since i sent it a file w real term i left it off cause it said file done THAT I REMEMBER
dsr off
trailer off??? if i turn it on it says enter trailer it is on 3 WTF
header off header on is set to 2
i left both off
autosplit on or off I left this on since i thought you had to split all atari files????
uv timer is on 33 minnutes HOW'd you guess that we will never know but i bet you did that telepathicly???
wait a minnute the next menu is uv eraser 30 minnutes i thought the uv timer and the oh shit 33 is the menu number the uv tumer is set to 30 minnutes my mistake...
then it says options 34 this is just a long menu witch scrolls threw all the short menus so onto next menu option
word size 08 now this might be the whole problem you can choose 8 16 32 now i dont know what to choose
ib check I assube that means is it blank check its set to off cause if you put a non blank chip in and push 21 then execute and its not blank it instantlanulssylsy sais not blank but if it thinks it might be blank then it tests chip then says check done if it is .
now do i then push e2 erase the 2 is squared on the sticker afer it passes the blank check to actually electronicly erase it??
ok then after ib check it says blank chack off whell thats a duh menu anyway both knew that menu was next then it
says test chip off
signature off by the way befoee i deleted snoopy do use burner to copy asteroids it had no signature..
then it has automatch i assume match chip to burn to or format it was in??
buzzer on this beeps every time you push buttons on burner printer off whooly crap i never even thought about printer although i dont think it would help then next says security off hmm mabie i should have had this on when trying to copy arkanoid DAMN,,,
encrypt off even more damn....
protection off WTF more confusion
then exit setup. this we both can agree on...
then back to enter function
now i push 33 and select 13 minnutes to erase some chips....
mabie ill select 23 if i put it in for 30 minnutes they are hot and burn fingers but i cant help it!!! ☺
so i wil select catch 22 that would make sence naw mabie 14 minnutes ...
I will assume you dont GIVE A CRAP WHAT KIND OF BURNER NOR HOW I USE IT no offence ment but I think my problem is lying in the fact that i dont remember weather i sent binary
whooooooollllllyyyyyyyyy ccccccrrrrapppp i just remembered what i did
I sent binary and had the burner in binary then i changed the burner to intel hex then bunerd I hope I will try that mabie that would work at least its worth a try...
I have not been able to recive from burner YET does xp have problems w serial ports if it does then i need to steal win95 hyperterm.exe
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thanks!here are the pictures, as requested... sorry for the bad quality, my phone doesn't take the best pics lol
i'll try them once i have found some controllers. so the black chips face the back? ok
whell now that i looked at the carts more in detail w monitor turned up those are definantly 7800 carts cause see the extra pcb's on each side making them only 7800 socket carts you should beable to test them that way.
oh ps..
if you plug them in backwards you could blow up rom but probably will only just get noisy lines on 7800 like pulling a 2600 cart out when its on is bad but if you power off 7800 unplug power pack turn back on to KILL capacitor power then plug cart in chips parts side facing tv then plug power pack in then turn on you should get at least one of those carts to ''light up''
I plug my bootleg cart in all the time w chip facing tv and solder side facing me all the time IN FACT the plastic has no electrical propertys exept mabie prevents some static discharge so i suggest gnding youre self and touch a gnd whilst picking one of those carts up also you could take a 7800 game you hate and change the shell out .
GOOD LUCK
here i saw a link on google to this
http://cgi.ebay.com.sg/TWO-NEW-Mint-Atari-...emZ380100241511
that should help you w youre joystick finding PLUS it states purchases meaning they have more than one lot good news for you...
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Post in Hack'em! / Hangly Man combined RE:RE .
/s..
oh before i forget I had problems w Stella xp and open gl too.
you must reinstall stella xp this is why i keep stella in its own directory and the roms in a totaly sepreate one.
cause if you change to the wrong open gl settings it wont let you fullscreen so if youreinstall and pick
original COLOR PALLETTE then the colors are perfect also you dont really need open gl this is what i have for settings om my stella
this is fullscreen after I hit alt enter it still comes back also sometimes when running a pal game you have to hit alt enter a couple of times to get it to stick.. this is why non open gl seems to at least on my card work better
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i dont know what you mean by ceramic?after doing some searching here, i found that theres something called a flashback 2 that uses the same joystick as this thing
i'll be looking for one this weekend.
thanks
Ceramic could mean eprom so it could be a proto or someones pirate copy. It's hard to tell from the pic though what kind of chip it is. Donkey Kong Jr has a copyright of 1988 so maybe it is a proto or copy of it. But I think that is a cart with RAM and Donkey Kong Jr doesn't need any extra RAM.
the white ceramic ones are just old probably nuke proof too cause thats all that was around in the 80's w all the arcade games like space invaders and pacman and the classics needing roms !!! plus when something new comes out they usually use roms not proms cuase they cant cause the proms need to be burned then burned in in oven to make them permanant then they just make roms not eeproms witch have the erase window I finnaly got the burner to take a file in hex using bin2hex it said file done then i tried to burn it but and it even verified but when i tested it it came upo as asteroids then played for 6 seconds then locked up I swear i burned that hangly man hack i got here on atariage but I think I dont have a clue on how to erase the whole memmory in the burner witch means it probably was still in some of the burners memmory witch means the bank switch found partial asteroids from the burn and booted it the problem is I dont have a clue mabie ill just trade the burner in for a new xp version witch would be so mutch easyer to work. anyway face the chips twords the back of the atari and the solder side facing you if you tilt game towrds you then chip side up . mabie those are 5200 carts i cant remember just look on ebay completed items for 5200 carts parts mabie you would find some . as far as the 7800 its worth keeping cause its automaticly reverse compatible to the 2600 w out mods ...
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Digital means the signals are either on or off, and analog means the signals can vary in their voltage level.
Thanks. The end result will be pretty much the same as the Chris Cracknell mod in the link above, though, it's still a logical AND of all signals, and a digital output, rather than an analog output as all the other mods do.Its slightly different. he clipped the resistors, combined all the pins into a resistor, then took the composite from the other side of the resistor.what do you mean digital there is no error compression going on here just telecapton atari signals for the whole screen right!!!!!!???? as the sync pulse is just a huge telecaption not just line 13 but all 255 of them??? I am guessing here I soldered the jumpers to the tops of the resitors then to r210 the picture is from ben hecks site just so I could look back to get the numbers for cr2303 ( i lifted) and r210 otheriwise i didnt have $ or time to go get a radio shack transistor for the video amp in witch i wish i had I thought about stealing the transistor from the sears arcade II rf mod but couldnt figure out weather it was same kind. anyway im making it more complicated than it probably is I do know on the 800 the pins one in from the outer oned on the din need to be soldered to gether to get color roastage unless you use all of them for svideo
The chroma and 3 luma signals from the TIA are either on or off, and by tying them together, they can collectively be only on or off. Therefore, you will have no ability to display varying levels of brightness, so your pixels will be either on or off. Also, in some cases you may have no chroma signal, which means the screen will be black and white. You still have color, because it's the phase, not the level that produces color (phase depends on the timing, not the level of the signals, so you usually have color, unless your chroma doesn't get through.)
The correct way to tie chroma and lumas together is with a digital-to-analog converter. There are various ways to do this, some better than others, but the simplest is the BenHeck mod that consists of just a few pots - it doesn't work as well as the transistor mod but it does work. It's really not much harder than what you did and will actually produce acceptable results in most cases.
thank you I thought the transistor was a amp but i guess it acts as a flanger type of amp i would guess in stead of on off the amp idea must make it more of a delayed + amplified type of signal that must be why frogger sounds tinny ... cause there is no cap to make it fuzzy I wonder what that new mini tube type amp nuts and volts has for a guitar amp /pick up would look like instead of the transistor ..
so if i take the output and run it through a amp transistor i can vary it w pot hmm would the motor control voltage regular I used for my laser mirror hobby motor work then i could adjust it.. anyway ben hecks this still is confusing me but I guess all transistors are mostly hooked the same
like 340t (7805) input 9-15v dc on input pin then gnd the middle one then outputs 5v thats probably why the © asteroids c screen does not light up on my vcr cause the signal is weak at 1st i thought i could steal composit off the rf chip but no what kind of transisitor was that a npn or pnp I was wondering why on basket ball in the b/w mode it was white vs grey with purple outlines cause the signal is to weak like you said. I totaly understood it I just have to wait till tue when i dont work to goto r shack for the amp transistor ans i will probaby just use the rf mod 4.5 v for and probably use the same hole just empty the rf mod pcb leaving the inputs but not the reistors so i can reuse the pcb I might even find out the existing rf mod transistor might work but dont know.
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why did the 2600 port of pacman SUCK because
#1 Sears® DEMANDED or ELSE get it on the shelfs before dec 13 rd
!!!!!!!!!!!!! or some date before christmas #2 the REAL reason NAMCO® must charge royalty fees for licenceing based on graphics alone! so the crappyer the game the less Atari® probably had to pay Namco® for licence royolatys.
and we all know as soon as frogger came out on the atari 800 disk version MS and AND APPLE had enough and said GAME OVER... then MS came out w MS arcade DEMO complete w working 1 ship version of asteroids witch was STUPID cause all you have to do is KICK asteroids ass long enough to get 3 ships then push pause on MS ARCADE DEMO and viola you just started a normal 3 ship game... If atari sucked so bad how come WALLMART carried the fbII AND /|\ KEYCHAINS AND PLUGPLAY JOYSTICKS VERSION #1 CAUSE THEY dont suck....Atari® rules...
the only thing Atari made that was a joke was the 410 with its rotten rubber binders
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after doing some searching here, i found that theres something called a flashback 2 that uses the same joystick as this thingi'll be looking for one this weekend.
Those joysticks only have 1 button, some games use 2.
If you only need 1 button though, then you can just as easily use a Sega Genesis controller.
You should find mega atari 7800 joysticks on EBAY!!! as far as those carts the chips face the tv meaning plugged in the solder side faces you and the label end parts side faces the back of unit so this should help ill show a pic of a /|\ cart w out shell no its not a 7800 it just looks like a cool one it has 4 joystick plugs but the extra two do nothing!! I tried to use both paddles and joysticks and switch but does nothing you still have the 1st two as p1 p2 p3 p4 plugs are fake and do nothing as far as i can tell anyway the sears arcade II acts just like a normal 2600 exept it takes a normal 9v power pack instead of a special phono plug 9v power pack SO IM using a packardbell(smuckardbell) power pack! from some speakers..
you sould beable to just use rca to f connector and hook to lcd w ch3 in unless it dont have old school tuner then just pick up a vcr at good will that would be cheaper than buying a rf modulator if youre lucky the vcr might even rewind!!... anyway good luck keep those big carts they look specail..
now that i remember for i sold the 32 in one cart on ebay i think it might be one of those!!! try it when you turn it off and back on it changes games.. good luck..
i hope you find some 7800 joysticks on ebay! .
oh before i forget i better show a pic of my homebrew asteroids hack i burned to a eeprom I cant seem to burn more games but the brown tape is covering the erase hole so the sun dont erase my eeprom!! i called the game crockrocks it has ®'s and aw's as the big rocks.. i used hackomatic to modify it then one day i got lucky and figured out how to burn a eeprom I havent been so lucky and tried a nother game on a blank eeprom and i got same asteriods so for now i give up on burner I will still try . the flashback II is cool to I already gutted a old non working 2600 and used the case for a flashback II mod for to accept carts the b/w switch selects between built in flashback II games and the color postion selects the cart hole i just scratched all traces off the original broken 2600 i robbed chips out of to fix the arcade II sears so i t worked! then i soldered the mod to the cart hole connector then i also scratched the 5v line off the board so i turned on using the 7805(340t) 5v voltage regulator and the big cap and the power switch so when you turn it on the power goes into the flashback pcb and not to the old pcb original broke 2600 still in case and since the flashback II has video and audio out i just used the ch3 switch on the back its a 4 switcher w mini a/b ch3 ch4 switches in back I used ch3 ch4 switch for color/bw needed in flashback II adventure to cheat and see invisible walls in adventure II . here is picture of my asteroid hack and a nother stella windows snap so you can actually see the intro and game w out scan problems cause of camera and my tv tv
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[oh beg beg plead please make hackomatic III avalible here as a link just rename .zip to .bin so you can list it here I have II but I seen a snap you made of III and am drolling already!!..
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Huh, whaddaya know. (Coleco tabletops)
in Dedicated Systems
Posted
I have a COLECO PACMAN AND A FROGGER the pacman uses batteries and the frogger has a power pack soldered to it I do remember as a kid having a pacman (coleco) i got from good will it lasted for 1 year normal w a power pack and a 9v clip soldered into motherboard and lasted a while then p1 joystick failed now remember the top part was broke off for a long time and battery case either so it was basicly a flat device w the bottom of the circut board exposed and only the pizeo speaker dangling under the black electrical tape i coverd the bottom w then one day the speaker was broken off by a kid and they gave it back saying it still works you can still hear the ghosts I said no way then i listened my self HMM coooooool you can HEAR The ghosts inside the TUBE IT SELF this was cool no it was not hearing the ocean but actually hearing the speaker input going into the 70volt tube heater lines witch is cool cause you could actually hear pacman.. I stole p2's joystick connections and fixed p1 as i never played p2 games very mutch since it takes 4 c batteries I knew it took 6v so i just decided to use a 9v to see what happened as i thought it just made it brighter but the 9v died to fast so got a lithuim 9v witch lasted longer but to get hours of play just use a lantern battery or you could use nickel hyryied c's I dont like c's cause they die to fast an I prefer the power pack option I have since lost the old pacman pcb but I do have a crappy original pacman pcb complete w no battery cover but the rest is intact the stickers are pealing and its a little dirty but the plastic screen is still clean and i have a sound switch in the back to mute the annnoying sound if needed although i think the sound is the best part of the game.. The frogger cabinet has a small crack in the plastic screen but doesnt hinder play to mutch . the pacman has no connections to the battery terminals now but does have the blue and red wires sticking out of the battery hole i think the red one is + and the blue one is (-) ... SO if I was you i would just steal the bottom case part for the battery connections or just solder a 6v to 9v power pack into the pcb you could also take a broken device witch has a good power pack and break the plug off the pcb and just solder that to the motherboard then you could plug the power pack in and make a super small whole so you could put the battery cover back on and if using batteries you just put connector under the cover in the butt of the batteries..
GOOD LUCK..