awace

is there a version of hangly man I could purchase or is it just for download.??? I am new ok not super new but new enough here to not know.. I will try to behave I just get hyper sometimes when sleepy and rant a lot. oh also you can click on topics on control panel and unsubscribe from email notifications for every time someone or youre self posts cause this can be really annoying I appoligize for bugging nukey so mutch on burning roms cause he obvibously dosnt have a burner and wouldnt know so I decided to make a new topic called buring roms to eeproms so if anywone has help please help.. PS >>PPS\,..,. WAY to go nukey you are the greatest I worship youre Atari 2600 programming skills you made that pachack so realistic it looks almost arcade quality you could actually make a real arcade game out of a atari the way you made the game look so real and the mazes are awesome I espically like the way you made the ghost points they still dont take to long so you can eat all ghosts before they ''CHANGE BACK'' and you also did a great job emulating the pacplus i also thank you for making miss packman Plus © 1982/1983 midway so close to the real thing w the apple head ghosts and how in new versions you made the fruit better and the fruit on the new spot where the bonus is a great idea I guess in that game that seems to be the place where you could probably have pretty mutch any macro font you would like cause you have the whole area under ghost pen.. A Nother feature i liked is the pause/ b/w switch feature I like games that take advantage of the B/w switch there is so many games lacking use of the switch its a shame not more people thought of the B/W switch. A nother point i have to make is my freind was watching me play atari the other day so we went threw all the GOOD games like football I actually got my but kicked at the end of the game at the begining i was wining then defender go up into the radar to jump to hyper space i didnt know that then we played night driver and some other games i showed him game 13 on missile command no points RF for rob fulup, then I showed him pacman boy he agreed thats the stuped ist game atari or sears ever realesed I remember that christmas hannuka came early that year and sears forced atari to come out w pacman before both for the CHRISTMAS season I thought cool pacman I wanted one just for the lable and the box but when i tried it on the atari demo machine or the atari they had on display I thought to my self lame... but when i saw youre game I showed steen and he said how the heck did someone get so good graphics into the atari w out more memmory on the atari he said is the game got more memmory in it I told him probably less than the 2 chip pitfall II and he said thats what atari should have had when pacman came out and i said noone knew what they knew now cause the lerning curve for atari was pretty mutch get game to work w as less memmory as possible cause in the 80's eeproms were expensive now a days just goto old computer junk pile and find some old pcb boards w eeproms or external modems have some and every c-mos chip on any 586 386 286 and slower probably has a eeprom chip plus most arcade games like birdie king II probably $20 on ebay would have 20 eeproms most 2732 and mrdo has 2764's so now people like nukey figured out the atari 2600 has more potentail just by squeezing in more code plus now that they have pal type chips and the 7404 and people make homwbrew games more often the bank switch routuines make the game beable to have way lots more lines of code this is what i think makes the atari 2600 way more sufisticated than people ever thought cause w say a 32k bankswitched game instead of a 8k pacman atari sears version . NUKEYS own game makes it look super realistic and since its got a new name he takes all credit. EVEN PONG was licenced from MAGNAVOX but noone knew about it but since nukeys game has a differnt name he can do what he wants w it.. Its still the best new atari game ever to be a home brew considering it looks so real I like the hanglyman2 and the pacplus2 the mazes are correct and the fact that the mazes change on the levels is Really the best thing about it it keeps you from being board. I also like the intro/attrack marquee screens and the checkerboard boot thing and how it boots looking just like a Midway pacman or rally x board it really gives it a feel or realizim unmatched by any other atari Game COVER Game i ever seen....

the last number on the chip should not be a 20 it shoud be a 10 as in 10 nano.......!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

in the delete block menu it starts RAM begin 00000 block size 00000 then it says last Addr size 07fff upper lim 07fff then it says deleting I forgot that but dont care if it delete is but how do i delete the WHOLE 256K cause then at least i know its ram is empty to accept new atari file not keep burning same old 1st 4 seconds of bank switch partial file to chip, i think thats the problem test ok 824 b1.60 i assume its version 824 b1.60 for the dig elec Portable Programmer model 824 . i dont want to erase the c-mos(file it runs it self on just the area in ram it uses for uploads...) i hope i cant screw it up this way..

any idea where to tell eeprom burner to erase its ram before i send file in the delete block menu it starts RAM begin 00000 block size 00000 then it says last Addr size 07fff upper lim 07fff then it says deleting I forgot that but dont care if it delete is but how do i delete the WHOLE 256K cause then at least i know its ram is empty to accept new atari file not keep burning same old 1st 4 seconds of bank switch partial file to chip, i think thats the problem test ok 824 b1.60 i assume its version 824 b1.60 for the dig elec Portable Programmer model 824 .

no offence in my rants to any way i address people... DEVICE nak.... error-☺ syntax error in social skills.....

wow i thought i was asking how to send a .bin file to the burner not how i blew a fuse one day.. i must need sleep. 6:52am after 7-4am BK shift..... mmmmmm bk breakfast 4pak shots... bacon egg and cheesy tots 9 pak...

yes the burner was still on when the ups was beeping! :twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted: but since the laptop was dieing i forgot about how i sent file and went outside to find power company then i found the gass station was locking people out cause there credit card stuff was down I told them i thought that was lame the phone company told me my dsl came out of EDNA I told the phone company ITS EDINA edna is the roundish phone hub/central office and furthermore the phone company lied anyway cause the DSLAM is in front of the city hall in st.louis park. like I thought the phone switch of the cityhall/police station /911 buildings new dslam must have been knocked off too cause since laptop was on at the time i just moved it into the living room where the tv was shut off and the computer shut down and i left only the dsl and the laptop plugged in but the DSL was blinking DSL DSL DSL was red hmm crock if it was in edina then the dslam up the street wouldnt mean crap but I knew better my dial tone might dial out from edian but my dsl comes from down the block.. then i relized the ups battery must have been weak I was running the burner my sgi 19 inch computer monitor my 20 inch memmorex tv my yamaha stereo my vcr my memmorex dss sattalite box my computer my hp 855c printer my dsl power pack w GND PRONG lucky and dynex $5. best buy router from the HAMVENTION® and atari power pack (actually a smuckard bell speaker power pack used for my sears arcade II ) works great!!! then also the ups and the eeprom burner oh the answering machine all on one 15 amp circut breaker im my apt the other 20 goes to the kitchen for fridge toaster (off) and the microwave clock I dont think the sit down space invaders cocktail cabinet was on cause i was burning eeproms ... but the boomb i heard was at the exact moment was hyperly pushing function execute cuase i tought the power company was having problems being it was 3:39am i was super tired and thought over current ment it was getting to mutch current from power company whell it was cause it was pulling to mutch current cause chip enable was upside down and probably shorting 12v to gnd in the burner and it said over current but since i hyperly kept trying i must have sucked to mutch current and the burner wouldnt let me blow a chip backwards and since the ups was being use the ups just sent the current back viola boomb blew fuse outside .. this happend once before on a super hot august day when playing w space invaders cocktail at parents house and happend to short a sound amp wire to gnd at the exact moment the airconditioning came on and booooomb a fuse across the street blew SAME thing using ups the space invaders game was still on but ups was beeping and it got really hot quick cause I was sweatging and airconditioning didnt work cause fuse across the street on pole flipped down since i heard that really loud i was able to actaully see it instead of holiday gas station telling me the box at roller garden blew.. this isnt the 1st time this had happend its actually the 3rd time a ups tried to pull more than they could supply!!!!! at old apt w was screwing around w small shoulder pack inverter and battery pack those BLUE and yellow ones I was using small inverter to start up a ups witch coulndt self start... so i plugged it in i cant remember what caused the power failure that day it probably was the storm brewing that day but me and my room mate were already charging every battery in the house cause saturday night live was really good then boomb then we saw lighining we both went FUCK no saturday night live . LUCKALY i had a zenith tv i just obtained at thrift store witch was a 1980's tv w no degauss coil this ment no startup current inrush or i just unplugged the degauss coil on purpose anyway i could start that tv w the mini inverter then i blew the mini inverter on a stupid IBM computer monitor i should have known better .. anyway the big inverter came on when i holded the power switch for a long time and we watched satruday night live but before we screwed w the NSP power company guy threw the window HE SAID hey where did you get light I was holding a lamp plugged into the ups I told him its plugged into a upeen s he said ohh ... so naturally i went to store to get lantern battrey for ATari 2600 emergencys to hook to cap in case i had to play atari on a b/w 4 inch tv!!!! ,... that b/w tv now has a built in zenith cable box rf mod and a keychain video in box so i can change from pong to asteroids keychain the astreoids keychain has been hooked to a cheap atari gemstick so i could actually play.. wow I must stop writing these before bed i rant to mutch but I dont care laugh it up.. :D :D :D :D control c control v :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

OK... I'm having a _real_ tough time understanding what you're trying to do... So, you have an EPROM programmer. Which programmer do you have? They're all quite different, and some need their data in Intel HEX format, and others accept binary data directly. You say you plugged one chip in backwards and knocked out the programmer? Did it 'recover' when you removed the chip, or did you blow the fuse? Also, if you have a chip that has been powered backwards, it may never work again - it could have been damaged. I did that once and the die on the chip lit up like a lightbulb... thing never would erase completely after that. 33 minutes is a bit long, but might be OK depending on your eraser. You don't want to erase chips for too long, you can damage them. -Ian hmm whell actually the FUSE in a power transformer blew so the whole block went off I thought i caused it cause i pushed execute and the ups beeped and the power went off I wish i had wrote down what i did I think i sent it 7,2,none and ran bin2hex.exe and sent a hex file I have a DIGELEC model 824 eeprom burner I left it in intel hex and it SAID blank check check done also it said after i put it into 7,1 or 7,2 it finnaly again said file done but i dont know exactly witch bin2hex kind of file i need cause none of the files i try to convert are exactly 4096 or 8k they are bigger so mabie i just need the correct bin2hex utility I can choose intel hex binary or ascii hex my dad said when he had his 8008 altair 8800 he said you need to send 7,1,none and send a .hex file cause something about not beaing able to send binary over serial ports .. anyway I dont know weather i actually waited long enogh for the chip to erase even though it said blank check ok. one chip that still boots to asteroids and works is a SS m2764 I think my eeprom burner thinks those are SEQ brand I have a texas interuments 27c512 ok a tms 27c512 witch i can just use the burner to copy from it self to no problem but when i send i file to the eeprom burner they never boot i think it might be i dont know weather i was using xmodem realterm or older win95 version of hyperterm I cant remember cause after the power failuer i recharged the laptop battery went to sleep and forgot wtf i DID i still can use the atari cart thought it still works. the atari cart im using i got from someone here it has a pal chip on it it also says © chris wilkson on the atari bootleg type cart the chip thats in it now is a nother tms 27c512 but i know it has nothing to do with the size of the chip it has to do w the kind of and the size of the file and how i send the file to the burner I know the burner still works cause all i did when i had the chip in backwards was just whimped out the last leg of the power pole green box outside when i kept trying to push program I kept doing it despite the lights going slightly dim It was afte i got back and the lights were back on i noticed it put the blank chip in the atari cart backwards then into the burner upside down I was tired it was like 333am when i got the 1st successfull asteroids hack burned so i was trying to get hangly hack or 1player tank . mabie if you have a .hex file i could try mabie that would work. I know i am sending the eeprom file correctly cause it blinks then says file done so i got that right but here is its function menu ill walk you threw it. when you turn on after test you push function then push 31 then execute witch is like a enter button then keep pushing execute and it says format INTEL-hex keep pushing or use up down arrows to scroll threw intel-hex motoroloa tektronics BINARY ASCII HEX <X> signetics hex mostek -Z80 then back to INTEL-HEX this i can understand but I assume its intel or ascii hex my dad sais i should use 7,1,none instead of 8,1 to send hex files. I think its 7,2,none I could be wrong what would u use.>?? then it goes even more hit execute and menu goes further RS-232C......................32 baud rate 9600 i left it there half duplex one stop bit i choose 2 number of bits 8 i changed it to 7 cause my dad said you cant send binary over serial and you cant send hex at 8 cause the 7,1 the ,1 is the 8 bit I was lucky i told him about a altari 8800 emulator and it sparked some memmorys about his ice 80 mon 2708's he burned.. then the menu goes to parity NONE i left it on none then x on x off DESABLE I know what this does but since i sent it a file w real term i left it off cause it said file done THAT I REMEMBER dsr off trailer off??? if i turn it on it says enter trailer it is on 3 WTF header off header on is set to 2 i left both off autosplit on or off I left this on since i thought you had to split all atari files???? uv timer is on 33 minnutes HOW'd you guess that we will never know but i bet you did that telepathicly??? wait a minnute the next menu is uv eraser 30 minnutes i thought the uv timer and the oh shit 33 is the menu number the uv tumer is set to 30 minnutes my mistake... then it says options 34 this is just a long menu witch scrolls threw all the short menus so onto next menu option word size 08 now this might be the whole problem you can choose 8 16 32 now i dont know what to choose ib check I assube that means is it blank check its set to off cause if you put a non blank chip in and push 21 then execute and its not blank it instantlanulssylsy sais not blank but if it thinks it might be blank then it tests chip then says check done if it is . now do i then push e2 erase the 2 is squared on the sticker afer it passes the blank check to actually electronicly erase it?? ok then after ib check it says blank chack off whell thats a duh menu anyway both knew that menu was next then it says test chip off signature off by the way befoee i deleted snoopy do use burner to copy asteroids it had no signature.. then it has automatch i assume match chip to burn to or format it was in?? buzzer on this beeps every time you push buttons on burner printer off whooly crap i never even thought about printer although i dont think it would help then next says security off hmm mabie i should have had this on when trying to copy arkanoid DAMN,,, encrypt off even more damn.... protection off WTF more confusion then exit setup. this we both can agree on... then back to enter function now i push 33 and select 13 minnutes to erase some chips.... mabie ill select 23 if i put it in for 30 minnutes they are hot and burn fingers but i cant help it!!! ☺ so i wil select catch 22 that would make sence naw mabie 14 minnutes ... I will assume you dont GIVE A CRAP WHAT KIND OF BURNER NOR HOW I USE IT no offence ment but I think my problem is lying in the fact that i dont remember weather i sent binary whooooooollllllyyyyyyyyy ccccccrrrrapppp i just remembered what i did I sent binary and had the burner in binary then i changed the burner to intel hex then bunerd I hope I will try that mabie that would work at least its worth a try... I have not been able to recive from burner YET does xp have problems w serial ports if it does then i need to steal win95 hyperterm.exe

whell now that i looked at the carts more in detail w monitor turned up those are definantly 7800 carts cause see the extra pcb's on each side making them only 7800 socket carts you should beable to test them that way. oh ps.. if you plug them in backwards you could blow up rom but probably will only just get noisy lines on 7800 like pulling a 2600 cart out when its on is bad but if you power off 7800 unplug power pack turn back on to KILL capacitor power then plug cart in chips parts side facing tv then plug power pack in then turn on you should get at least one of those carts to ''light up'' I plug my bootleg cart in all the time w chip facing tv and solder side facing me all the time IN FACT the plastic has no electrical propertys exept mabie prevents some static discharge so i suggest gnding youre self and touch a gnd whilst picking one of those carts up also you could take a 7800 game you hate and change the shell out . GOOD LUCK here i saw a link on google to this http://cgi.ebay.com.sg/TWO-NEW-Mint-Atari-...emZ380100241511 that should help you w youre joystick finding PLUS it states purchases meaning they have more than one lot good news for you...

Post in Hack'em! / Hangly Man combined RE:RE . /s.. oh before i forget I had problems w Stella xp and open gl too. you must reinstall stella xp this is why i keep stella in its own directory and the roms in a totaly sepreate one. cause if you change to the wrong open gl settings it wont let you fullscreen so if youreinstall and pick original COLOR PALLETTE then the colors are perfect also you dont really need open gl this is what i have for settings om my stella this is fullscreen after I hit alt enter it still comes back also sometimes when running a pal game you have to hit alt enter a couple of times to get it to stick.. this is why non open gl seems to at least on my card work better

Ceramic could mean eprom so it could be a proto or someones pirate copy. It's hard to tell from the pic though what kind of chip it is. Donkey Kong Jr has a copyright of 1988 so maybe it is a proto or copy of it. But I think that is a cart with RAM and Donkey Kong Jr doesn't need any extra RAM. the white ceramic ones are just old probably nuke proof too cause thats all that was around in the 80's w all the arcade games like space invaders and pacman and the classics needing roms !!! plus when something new comes out they usually use roms not proms cuase they cant cause the proms need to be burned then burned in in oven to make them permanant then they just make roms not eeproms witch have the erase window I finnaly got the burner to take a file in hex using bin2hex it said file done then i tried to burn it but and it even verified but when i tested it it came upo as asteroids then played for 6 seconds then locked up I swear i burned that hangly man hack i got here on atariage but I think I dont have a clue on how to erase the whole memmory in the burner witch means it probably was still in some of the burners memmory witch means the bank switch found partial asteroids from the burn and booted it the problem is I dont have a clue mabie ill just trade the burner in for a new xp version witch would be so mutch easyer to work. anyway face the chips twords the back of the atari and the solder side facing you if you tilt game towrds you then chip side up . mabie those are 5200 carts i cant remember just look on ebay completed items for 5200 carts parts mabie you would find some . as far as the 7800 its worth keeping cause its automaticly reverse compatible to the 2600 w out mods ...

Thanks. The end result will be pretty much the same as the Chris Cracknell mod in the link above, though, it's still a logical AND of all signals, and a digital output, rather than an analog output as all the other mods do. what do you mean digital there is no error compression going on here just telecapton atari signals for the whole screen right!!!!!!???? as the sync pulse is just a huge telecaption not just line 13 but all 255 of them??? I am guessing here I soldered the jumpers to the tops of the resitors then to r210 the picture is from ben hecks site just so I could look back to get the numbers for cr2303 ( i lifted) and r210 otheriwise i didnt have $ or time to go get a radio shack transistor for the video amp in witch i wish i had I thought about stealing the transistor from the sears arcade II rf mod but couldnt figure out weather it was same kind. anyway im making it more complicated than it probably is I do know on the 800 the pins one in from the outer oned on the din need to be soldered to gether to get color roastage unless you use all of them for svideo Digital means the signals are either on or off, and analog means the signals can vary in their voltage level. The chroma and 3 luma signals from the TIA are either on or off, and by tying them together, they can collectively be only on or off. Therefore, you will have no ability to display varying levels of brightness, so your pixels will be either on or off. Also, in some cases you may have no chroma signal, which means the screen will be black and white. You still have color, because it's the phase, not the level that produces color (phase depends on the timing, not the level of the signals, so you usually have color, unless your chroma doesn't get through.) The correct way to tie chroma and lumas together is with a digital-to-analog converter. There are various ways to do this, some better than others, but the simplest is the BenHeck mod that consists of just a few pots - it doesn't work as well as the transistor mod but it does work. It's really not much harder than what you did and will actually produce acceptable results in most cases. thank you I thought the transistor was a amp but i guess it acts as a flanger type of amp i would guess in stead of on off the amp idea must make it more of a delayed + amplified type of signal that must be why frogger sounds tinny ... cause there is no cap to make it fuzzy I wonder what that new mini tube type amp nuts and volts has for a guitar amp /pick up would look like instead of the transistor .. so if i take the output and run it through a amp transistor i can vary it w pot hmm would the motor control voltage regular I used for my laser mirror hobby motor work then i could adjust it.. anyway ben hecks this still is confusing me but I guess all transistors are mostly hooked the same like 340t (7805) input 9-15v dc on input pin then gnd the middle one then outputs 5v thats probably why the © asteroids c screen does not light up on my vcr cause the signal is weak at 1st i thought i could steal composit off the rf chip but no what kind of transisitor was that a npn or pnp I was wondering why on basket ball in the b/w mode it was white vs grey with purple outlines cause the signal is to weak like you said. I totaly understood it I just have to wait till tue when i dont work to goto r shack for the amp transistor ans i will probaby just use the rf mod 4.5 v for and probably use the same hole just empty the rf mod pcb leaving the inputs but not the reistors so i can reuse the pcb I might even find out the existing rf mod transistor might work but dont know.

why did the 2600 port of pacman SUCK because #1 Sears® DEMANDED or ELSE get it on the shelfs before dec 13 rd !!!!!!!!!!!!! or some date before christmas #2 the REAL reason NAMCO® must charge royalty fees for licenceing based on graphics alone! so the crappyer the game the less Atari® probably had to pay Namco® for licence royolatys. and we all know as soon as frogger came out on the atari 800 disk version MS and AND APPLE had enough and said GAME OVER... then MS came out w MS arcade DEMO complete w working 1 ship version of asteroids witch was STUPID cause all you have to do is KICK asteroids ass long enough to get 3 ships then push pause on MS ARCADE DEMO and viola you just started a normal 3 ship game... If atari sucked so bad how come WALLMART carried the fbII AND /|\ KEYCHAINS AND PLUGPLAY JOYSTICKS VERSION #1 CAUSE THEY dont suck....Atari® rules... the only thing Atari made that was a joke was the 410 with its rotten rubber binders

Those joysticks only have 1 button, some games use 2. If you only need 1 button though, then you can just as easily use a Sega Genesis controller. You should find mega atari 7800 joysticks on EBAY!!! as far as those carts the chips face the tv meaning plugged in the solder side faces you and the label end parts side faces the back of unit so this should help ill show a pic of a /|\ cart w out shell no its not a 7800 it just looks like a cool one it has 4 joystick plugs but the extra two do nothing!! I tried to use both paddles and joysticks and switch but does nothing you still have the 1st two as p1 p2 p3 p4 plugs are fake and do nothing as far as i can tell anyway the sears arcade II acts just like a normal 2600 exept it takes a normal 9v power pack instead of a special phono plug 9v power pack SO IM using a packardbell(smuckardbell) power pack! from some speakers.. you sould beable to just use rca to f connector and hook to lcd w ch3 in unless it dont have old school tuner then just pick up a vcr at good will that would be cheaper than buying a rf modulator if youre lucky the vcr might even rewind!!... anyway good luck keep those big carts they look specail.. now that i remember for i sold the 32 in one cart on ebay i think it might be one of those!!! try it when you turn it off and back on it changes games.. good luck.. i hope you find some 7800 joysticks on ebay! . oh before i forget i better show a pic of my homebrew asteroids hack i burned to a eeprom I cant seem to burn more games but the brown tape is covering the erase hole so the sun dont erase my eeprom!! i called the game crockrocks it has ®'s and aw's as the big rocks.. i used hackomatic to modify it then one day i got lucky and figured out how to burn a eeprom I havent been so lucky and tried a nother game on a blank eeprom and i got same asteriods so for now i give up on burner I will still try . the flashback II is cool to I already gutted a old non working 2600 and used the case for a flashback II mod for to accept carts the b/w switch selects between built in flashback II games and the color postion selects the cart hole i just scratched all traces off the original broken 2600 i robbed chips out of to fix the arcade II sears so i t worked! then i soldered the mod to the cart hole connector then i also scratched the 5v line off the board so i turned on using the 7805(340t) 5v voltage regulator and the big cap and the power switch so when you turn it on the power goes into the flashback pcb and not to the old pcb original broke 2600 still in case and since the flashback II has video and audio out i just used the ch3 switch on the back its a 4 switcher w mini a/b ch3 ch4 switches in back I used ch3 ch4 switch for color/bw needed in flashback II adventure to cheat and see invisible walls in adventure II . here is picture of my asteroid hack and a nother stella windows snap so you can actually see the intro and game w out scan problems cause of camera and my tv tv

[oh beg beg plead please make hackomatic III avalible here as a link just rename .zip to .bin so you can list it here I have II but I seen a snap you made of III and am drolling already!!..

I am trying to burn a atari .bin file to a REAL eeprom burner and am having problems . I started w a snoopy cart i got from somone here it was only to be used to be erased to use for my asteroids hack witch i successfully did but now i want MORE games on other chips so far since that one day the power went off when i had one plugged in backwards in the burner i forgot what to send the burner . I have successfully sent it files at 7,2,none but i cant remember weather i send a .hex file using bin2hex or just send it original stella .bin type file in anyone has info on what to send burner please help. I tried it once and got a nother blank eeprom to take new file but when testing it it booted into asteroids again!!!!!!!!!! wtf then it crashed after 4 seconds of play I thought it might have been the pal bank switching chip w memmory stuck in it but who knows. I know it was blank cause i erased it w ultra violet light for 33 minnutes and it said check done also when i sent it a binary file in .hex format after chaning from bin2hex.exe i sent it a .hex file w burner in intel hex I havent tried ascii hex but thats next.

Thanks. The end result will be pretty much the same as the Chris Cracknell mod in the link above, though, it's still a logical AND of all signals, and a digital output, rather than an analog output as all the other mods do. what do you mean digital there is no error compression going on here just telecapton atari signals for the whole screen right!!!!!!???? as the sync pulse is just a huge telecaption not just line 13 but all 255 of them??? I am guessing here I soldered the jumpers to the tops of the resitors then to r210 the picture is from ben hecks site just so I could look back to get the numbers for cr2303 ( i lifted) and r210 otheriwise i didnt have $ or time to go get a radio shack transistor for the video amp in witch i wish i had I thought about stealing the transistor from the sears arcade II rf mod but couldnt figure out weather it was same kind. anyway im making it more complicated than it probably is I do know on the 800 the pins one in from the outer oned on the din need to be soldered to gether to get color roastage unless you use all of them for svideo

TIA pins 2, 5, 7, and 8 together and hooked those to r210 connected it to rca composite out and removed (lifted )cr2303 .. ok i guess ill have to take a picture of it... hmm i wonder if i could just feed those signals into the zenith rf modulator using 9v in and hooking to the agc pot backwards not using ch3 out but chomping off pins on the rf mod DAMN now i wish i haddnt thrown cable boxes in dumpster ok yes i am.

what the hell is that ( just kidding ) I do have a old copy of nanopvr so you could gouge a hauppauge into svideo in if you wanted!!!!!! that used w a new hauppauge and descaler might just be the same thing!!!!!!! desaler is cool so are hauppauge's cause if there old you can choose japan pal mode for pal 2600 games. luckaly my deadly duck game is ntsc!!

remember to hook that to resisor 210 as whell yes its crappy and might not work whell but i just wanted to unhook the power into the rf mod cause the cable was shot and i kept having to resolder every time i changed from tv to atari now i just switch vcr to video 2 channel and viola Atari w no cable problems. also you could add the stereo out I used a old 50 footer ok mabie a old radio shack 100 foot rca white cord i snipped in the middle so i could get two output rca's out of it.. I had already lifted one of the tia's sound pins to hear seprate tank sounds one day then resoldered it back to the other pin w a solder bridge incase i got a nother rca cord to add stereo HMM a use for the ch3 ch4 switch mono shorted out or stereo out!!! so when playing tank stereo is ch4 and ch3 is just unhooked in stead of shorting out sterero outs incase not playing a stereo game. PS as you all can see I dont like grammer .. PPS im going to burn a nother game to the boootleg cart this time like my dad said you need 7.1,even or none cause you cant send hex in 8 bits cause the 7,1 is the 8th bit so all i have to do is run bin2hex.exe from cmd.exe and then send normal put the burner in 7,1 then send the .bin file after i run bin2hex.exe hanglypac.bin witch makes hanglypac.hex then i rename to 0.hex incase a chip dont like long names then send it chanigng hyperterm to 7,1,none then it might not says usart error or incorrect file cause it has to be hex cause you cant send binary over serial !!! you have to send it hexadecimal binary!!! anyway my dad said try 7,1 then run bin2hex then send that.. ill tell all if it works cause if it does I will be playing hangly pac on sears arcade II now i wish i had that damn transistor from the video amp benhack heck hack!!!!... oh before i forget only dont remove anything just run jumpers to those places those pins are on the top of the resistors and to the resisor 210 too I think i removed one doied ALSO I Bet that video amp on bens page would help but the color resistor still works but its more tewakey sensitive... cr2505 unhooked too .

i also hooked those to resisor 210 too then to composite in on vcr YES IT DONT WORK VERY WHELL but the rf modulator has been unhooked from power and it still works BUT the © 1982 asteroids screen wont work it stays blue till colored rocks appare on screen then it works also in basket ball the black and white turns more a grey and white the black dude turns dark grey w purple roastage on the ends but NO MORE broken rf cables so im happy . also my freind played he beat the HELL out of me in jets on combat after I woudlnt let him move on tanks then he beat me in basket ball both on Atari 2600 and further more on the oddessy 2 i just got carts 7 of them off ebay for $10.00 also even he couldnt beat 2600 basket ball AI autmatic dude even in atract mode so for a 2 to 4k basket ball game atari2600 basket ball has some great AI. also we figured out defender 2600 you can go UP into radar screen and hyper space I didnt know that till today cayse i never tried it...

I hooked lifted cr2303 dioed and hooked pins 2 5 7 and 8 together on tia chip then soldered that to the top of resisor 210 the chroma one then hooked composite rca cable + to that connection for compsotie video this means pins 2 pins 5 pins 7 and pins 8 are tied to gether then to resistor 210 yellow brown black gold black bigger greensih resitor needs to be tied to the pins 2 5 7 and 8 this way if you only lift dioed cr2303 then the original color adjusting chroma pot still works!!!!! the audio was just picked off above or mabie i got it from the tia chip where i had used to have a stereo mod but gave up on that cause only tank seemed to be stereo as far as orgional games anyway it works great exept for pacman sounds lame on start but i think i screwed up my tv's hidden sharp agc menu adjustments so i am going to forget about audio. anyway the using 2 5 7 and 8 plus the r210 worked now i have no need for rf mod output resisor nor the cap either so there is no rf comming out of the atari as whell as interferance to other things like near other tv's!!! if you look at bens picture you can see the green resitor he replaced w a cap i just soldered the top to pins 2 5 7 8 and hooked that to composite then used pacman to get the yellow then put space invaders in and adjusted to the last time i seen it on the emulation . I dont have a svideo tv so i dont care for NOW . but at first when i tried to pick composite off board i didnt know it was old school chroma signals I thought composit was on a pin the rf mod must be at baseband ch3-4 usign those chroma signals i dont have a clue exept when you short pins 2 5 7 8 to r210 then use that as composite it works and the color (tint (HUE ) adjust pot still works I only lifted the doied cause it seemed conveient and ben did it in that pic so i did it too.! the tia chip is the on to the left of those resistors in that picture the coil w the red plastic can be in different spot and wont make difference.. at least since this was Sears® arcade II it still seemed to have same pins on resistors even though the red choke coil was in differnt spot. i was getting audio from the resistor one to the right of the pin 8 one in that picture

i have a atari file that loads then lets you copy files called ultra copy witch i boot to then remove then i copy file from original to blank disk pushing a makes destination autoformat before writning out dest then i take copy and leave it in and copy again but this time i have ape emulating d2 as virtual drive cloning drive 1 then once ultra copy copies it once or twice its in ape cue then i can make a .atr file from REAL atari or vise versa Its long but certianly not as long as a .cas file would be I cant even get tape to load its own tapes.. anyway sounds cool by the way if you want to eliminate fake tape dont forget to steal the surface mounted resistors from the fake tape head you will need those to hardwire to hardwire to eliminate both heads I did this on a car stereo so i could use walkman w broken tape I finnaly just bought a real stereo for the car. I havent tried fake tape although you wouuld have to cue mp3 player up for record or playback.

I tried this on my atari 800 type this in and have paddle (0) and (1) ready whell since there crimmped together finding a pair of paddles shoud be easy NOW I WISH I HADNT MADE THAT PLUG PLAY PADDLE 2 player cause there is 4 variables i could have had paddle(0) threw paddle( oh yeah there is 8 possible paddles . anyway I just did this OOPS ERROR- _ CAPS MUST BE ON DUH! 0 POKE 53768,96:POKE 53761,175 1 POKE 53768,175 2 POKE 53760,44:POKE 53764,45 10 POKE 53765,PADDLE(0) 20 POKE 53764,PADDLE(1) 22 POKE 53760,PADDLE(0):POKE 53764,PADDLE(0) HMM? 25 GOTO 10 22 POKE 53760,PADDLE(0):POKE 53764,PADDLE(1) RUN I COULDNT HELP TYPING RUN TRY THAT ITS COOL PRETTY WEIRD NOISES USING PADDLE PADDLES ONLY GOTO 228 SO 255 WONT BE A PROBLEM JUST DO A PADDLE(0)+25 TO BA SAFE OR X GREATER THAN 254 THEN X=228:X=PADDLE(0) GOTO 10 TRY IT I THOUGHT IT WAS TRIPPY . PS wARLORDS IS ONE OF MY FAVROITE GAMES. I NOTICED IN PLUG PLAY VERSION BLUE OPPONENT IS HYPER ALSO THE ANGLE IS DRAWN LAMER THAN THE real ATARI THIS IS CAUSE i HEARD IT WAS SOME KIND OF NUMTENDO EMULATION RUNNING ATARI BINS THATS CAUSE ATARI HAS BETTER GRAPHICS ALWAYS . oh i also noticed whell i heard it 1st the tv snags stereo signal from the interferance witch i thought was COOL pps. the 1010 rubberbinder project worked exactly like i thought I was able to use a 12v ac aultpower pack from surplus store but as usual the rubber binder worked but still no luck loading files save is easy but reloading them just wont seem to work. I think it might just have to do w degaussing but dont care anymore I got STAR DP8340 TO WORK W MPP PARRALEL WITH LIST "P" HERE IS A FILE i TYPED HALF A SLEEP WITCH I WOULD HAVE NEVER REMEMBERED BUT SINCE I LIST "P" ED IT 10 GR.11 20 X=PADDLE(0) 30 IF X>70 THEN X=70 40 COLOR X+INT(0)*2+1 55 PLOT X,X:DR.0,X 60 SOUND 1,999+PADDLE(1),10,10 61 SOUND 1,998+PADDLE(0),10,10 90 GOTO 20 ALSO TRY THIS END SOUND 0,999,10,10 SOUND 1,998,10,10 SOUND 2,1001,10,10 SOUND 3,1000,10,10 THIS SHOULD MAKE SUPER RESONANT SOUNDS SOUND 0,PADDLE(1)+772,10,10 EXAMPLES/ OH GR.9 IS B/W GR.11 IS COLOR GR.10 IS ARTIFACTLY LAME

that reminds me last year i had the old PET computer upstairs hooked to one of those tape recorders it still worked I have some super old public domain tapes that still load too isnt it load "filename" or load "filename",8 for disk access I have no clue weather a disk would work. I did however once find a pet emulator and played Advanced Dungunens and Dragons for the pet in green color in xp once it was cool i wish i had that tape file.