awace
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Posts posted by awace
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Thanks. The end result will be pretty much the same as the Chris Cracknell mod in the link above, though, it's still a logical AND of all signals, and a digital output, rather than an analog output as all the other mods do.Its slightly different. he clipped the resistors, combined all the pins into a resistor, then took the composite from the other side of the resistor.what do you mean digital there is no error compression going on here just telecapton atari signals for the whole screen right!!!!!!???? as the sync pulse is just a huge telecaption not just line 13 but all 255 of them??? I am guessing here I soldered the jumpers to the tops of the resitors then to r210 the picture is from ben hecks site just so I could look back to get the numbers for cr2303 ( i lifted) and r210 otheriwise i didnt have $ or time to go get a radio shack transistor for the video amp in witch i wish i had I thought about stealing the transistor from the sears arcade II rf mod but couldnt figure out weather it was same kind. anyway im making it more complicated than it probably is I do know on the 800 the pins one in from the outer oned on the din need to be soldered to gether to get color roastage unless you use all of them for svideo
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What did you do now? Apparently others understand but it appears to me you just tied TIA pins 2, 5, 7, and 8 together, and if I'm correct, that won't work well. Those pins are open drain digital outputs, and while it probably won't damage anything, the output will be a logical AND of all the signals which is certainly not how they were intended to work.Nathan Strum compared video mods and this one performed worse than any other.
His page seems broken but here is google's cache:
http://209.85.173.132/search?q=cache:xMoNK.../2600mods.shtml
TIA pins 2, 5, 7, and 8 together and hooked those to r210 connected it to rca composite out and removed (lifted )cr2303 ..
ok i guess ill have to take a picture of it...
hmm i wonder if i could just feed those signals into the zenith rf modulator using 9v in and hooking to the agc pot backwards not using ch3 out but chomping off pins on the rf mod DAMN now i wish i haddnt thrown cable boxes in dumpster ok yes i am.
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that's cool!So, I guess the HDMI VCS will be next.
what the hell is that ( just kidding ) I do have a old copy of nanopvr so you could gouge a hauppauge into svideo in if you wanted!!!!!! that used w a new hauppauge and descaler might just be the same thing!!!!!!! desaler is cool so are hauppauge's cause if there old you can choose japan pal mode for pal 2600 games. luckaly my deadly duck game is ntsc!!
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Oh neat, you can do that.I'm going to have to try that on my sears video arcade II. For some odd reason when I pull the Chroma, its either really fuzzy, or if I try to do it directly off of the TIA, its not a clear signal.
I'm gonna have to play with this to see if this will give my sears video arcade II composite. I sure hope so, that's the only console that I cannot mod for composite.
remember to hook that to resisor 210 as whell yes its crappy and might not work whell but i just wanted to unhook the power into the rf mod cause the cable was shot and i kept having to resolder every time i changed from tv to atari now i just switch vcr to video 2 channel and viola Atari w no cable problems. also you could add the stereo out I used a old 50 footer ok mabie a old radio shack 100 foot rca white cord i snipped in the middle so i could get two output rca's out of it.. I had already lifted one of the tia's sound pins to hear seprate tank sounds one day then resoldered it back to the other pin w a solder bridge incase i got a nother rca cord to add stereo HMM a use for the ch3 ch4 switch mono shorted out or stereo out!!! so when playing tank stereo is ch4 and ch3 is just unhooked in stead of shorting out sterero outs incase not playing a stereo game.
PS as you all can see I dont like grammer .. PPS im going to burn a nother game to the boootleg cart this time like my dad said you need 7.1,even or none cause you cant send hex in 8 bits cause the 7,1 is the 8th bit so all i have to do is run bin2hex.exe from cmd.exe and then send normal put the burner in 7,1 then send the .bin file after i run bin2hex.exe hanglypac.bin
witch makes hanglypac.hex then i rename to 0.hex incase a chip dont like long names then send it chanigng hyperterm to 7,1,none then it might not says usart error or incorrect file cause it has to be hex cause you cant send binary over serial !!! you have to send it hexadecimal binary!!! anyway my dad said try 7,1 then run bin2hex then send that..
ill tell all if it works cause if it does I will be playing hangly pac on sears arcade II now i wish i had that damn transistor from the video amp benhack heck hack!!!!...
oh before i forget only dont remove anything just run jumpers to those places those pins are on the top of the resistors and to the resisor 210 too I think i removed one doied ALSO I Bet that video amp on bens page would help but the color resistor still works but its more tewakey sensitive... cr2505 unhooked too .
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What did you do now? Apparently others understand but it appears to me you just tied TIA pins 2, 5, 7, and 8 together, and if I'm correct, that won't work well. Those pins are open drain digital outputs, and while it probably won't damage anything, the output will be a logical AND of all the signals which is certainly not how they were intended to work.Nathan Strum compared video mods and this one performed worse than any other.
His page seems broken but here is google's cache:
http://209.85.173.132/search?q=cache:xMoNK.../2600mods.shtml
i also hooked those to resisor 210 too then to composite in on vcr YES IT DONT WORK VERY WHELL but the rf modulator has been unhooked from power and it still works BUT the © 1982 asteroids screen wont work it stays blue till colored rocks appare on screen then it works also in basket ball the black and white turns more a grey and white the black dude turns dark grey w purple roastage on the ends but NO MORE broken rf cables so im happy .
also my freind played he beat the HELL out of me in jets on combat after I woudlnt let him move on tanks then he beat me in basket ball both on Atari 2600 and further more on the oddessy 2 i just got carts 7 of them off ebay for $10.00 also even he couldnt beat 2600 basket ball AI autmatic dude even in atract mode so for a 2 to 4k basket ball game atari2600 basket ball has some great AI. also we figured out defender 2600 you can go UP into radar screen and hyper space I didnt know that till today cayse i never tried it...
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I hooked lifted cr2303 dioed and hooked pins 2 5 7 and 8 together on tia chip then soldered that to the top of resisor 210 the chroma one then hooked composite rca cable + to that connection for compsotie video this means pins 2 pins 5 pins 7 and pins 8 are tied to gether then to resistor 210 yellow brown black gold black bigger greensih resitor needs to be tied to the pins 2 5 7 and 8 this way if you only lift dioed cr2303 then the original color adjusting chroma pot still works!!!!!
the audio was just picked off above or mabie i got it from the tia chip where i had used to have a stereo mod but gave up on that cause only tank seemed to be stereo as far as orgional games anyway it works great exept for pacman sounds lame on start but i think i screwed up my tv's hidden sharp agc menu adjustments so i am going to forget about audio. anyway the using 2 5 7 and 8 plus the r210 worked now i have no need for rf mod output resisor nor the cap either so there is no rf comming out of the atari as whell as interferance to other things like near other tv's!!! if you look at bens picture you can see the green resitor he replaced w a cap i just soldered the top to pins 2 5 7 8 and hooked that to composite then used pacman to get the
yellow then put space invaders in and adjusted to the last time i seen it on the emulation . I dont have a svideo tv so i dont care for NOW .
but at first when i tried to pick composite off board i didnt know it was old school chroma signals I thought composit was on a pin the rf mod must be at baseband ch3-4 usign those chroma signals i dont have a clue exept when you short pins 2 5 7 8 to r210 then use that as composite it works and the color (tint (HUE ) adjust pot still works I only lifted the doied cause it seemed conveient and ben did it in that pic so i did it too.!
the tia chip is the on to the left of those resistors in that picture the coil w the red plastic can be in different spot and wont make difference.. at least since this was
Sears® arcade II it still seemed to have same pins on resistors even though the red choke coil was in differnt spot.
i was getting audio from the resistor one to the right of the pin 8 one in that picture
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Yeah, the mp3 cas player would be kind of cool. I've actually been going through all my Multiboot disks and making .cas files of the games (some of which aren't in the cas archive), then converted them with cas2wav, then run through a flac compressor for archiving. I then play it through the stereo and record onto a cassette, put it in the 1010 and re-read with a boot-tape copier and write back out with the 1010. A lot of time to do it all, but I've had about a 99% success rate with this method. There's just something about the squelch from an Atari tape drive that brings back them warm fuzzy memories. And because of the flac files, I know exactly how much time I can be away from the Atari to do other things before I have to press the START/FIRE button."Why?" you ask. "Just for the hell of it," I say...
i have a atari file that loads then lets you copy files called ultra copy witch i boot to then remove then i copy file from original to blank disk
pushing a makes destination autoformat before writning out dest then i take copy and leave it in and copy again but this time i have ape emulating d2 as virtual drive cloning drive 1 then once ultra copy copies it once or twice its in ape cue then i can make a .atr file from REAL atari or vise versa Its long but certianly not as long as a .cas file would be I cant even get tape to load its own tapes..
anyway sounds cool by the way if you want to eliminate fake tape dont forget to steal the surface mounted resistors from the fake tape head you will need those to hardwire to hardwire to eliminate both heads I did this on a car stereo so i could use walkman w broken tape I finnaly just bought a real stereo for the car.
I havent tried fake tape although you wouuld have to cue mp3 player up for record or playback.
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I tried this on my atari 800 type this in and have paddle (0) and (1) ready whell since there crimmped together finding a pair of paddles shoud be easy NOW I WISH I HADNT MADE THAT PLUG PLAY PADDLE 2 player cause there is 4 variables i could have had paddle(0) threw paddle(
oh yeah there is 8 possible paddles .
anyway I just did this OOPS ERROR- _ CAPS MUST BE ON DUH!
0 POKE 53768,96:POKE 53761,175
1 POKE 53768,175
2 POKE 53760,44:POKE 53764,45
10 POKE 53765,PADDLE(0)
20 POKE 53764,PADDLE(1)
22 POKE 53760,PADDLE(0):POKE 53764,PADDLE(0) HMM?
25 GOTO 10
22 POKE 53760,PADDLE(0):POKE 53764,PADDLE(1)
RUN
I COULDNT HELP TYPING RUN
TRY THAT ITS COOL PRETTY WEIRD NOISES USING PADDLE
PADDLES ONLY GOTO 228 SO 255 WONT BE A PROBLEM JUST DO A PADDLE(0)+25 TO BA SAFE
OR X GREATER THAN 254 THEN X=228:X=PADDLE(0)
GOTO 10
TRY IT I THOUGHT IT WAS TRIPPY .
PS wARLORDS IS ONE OF MY FAVROITE GAMES. I NOTICED IN PLUG PLAY VERSION BLUE OPPONENT IS HYPER ALSO THE ANGLE IS DRAWN LAMER THAN THE real ATARI THIS IS CAUSE i HEARD IT WAS SOME KIND OF NUMTENDO EMULATION RUNNING ATARI BINS THATS CAUSE ATARI HAS BETTER GRAPHICS ALWAYS .
oh i also noticed whell i heard it 1st the tv snags stereo signal from the interferance witch i thought was COOL
pps.
the 1010 rubberbinder project worked exactly like i thought I was able to use a 12v ac aultpower pack from surplus store but as usual
the rubber binder worked but still no luck loading files save is easy but reloading them just wont seem to work.
I think it might just have to do w degaussing but dont care anymore I got STAR DP8340 TO WORK W MPP PARRALEL WITH
LIST "P"
HERE IS A FILE i TYPED HALF A SLEEP WITCH I WOULD HAVE NEVER REMEMBERED BUT SINCE I LIST "P" ED IT
10 GR.11
20 X=PADDLE(0)
30 IF X>70 THEN X=70
40 COLOR X+INT(0)*2+1
55 PLOT X,X:DR.0,X
60 SOUND 1,999+PADDLE(1),10,10
61 SOUND 1,998+PADDLE(0),10,10
90 GOTO 20
ALSO TRY THIS
END
SOUND 0,999,10,10
SOUND 1,998,10,10
SOUND 2,1001,10,10
SOUND 3,1000,10,10
THIS SHOULD MAKE SUPER RESONANT SOUNDS
SOUND 0,PADDLE(1)+772,10,10
EXAMPLES/
OH GR.9 IS B/W GR.11 IS COLOR GR.10 IS ARTIFACTLY LAME
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PM sent.that reminds me last year i had the old PET computer upstairs hooked to one of those tape recorders it still worked I have some super old public domain tapes that still load too isnt it
load "filename"
or load "filename",8 for disk access I have no clue weather a disk would work.
I did however once find a pet emulator and played Advanced Dungunens and Dragons for the pet in green color in xp once it was cool
i wish i had that tape file.
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MyAtari is currently auctioning off XC12 cassette players on eBay. It's a good unit (and probably a better choice than the 1010, as it takes power from the computer), but you'll have some problems "daisy chaining" peripherals for it.I took the 1010 out today and decided to goto target and get some rubber binders but that only fixed the drive mech not the tape head alignment and since i cant find my boombox i dont have time to screw around w it although i did think of using a FAKE MP3 player type tape to see if that would work w mp3 recorder!!???? I doubt it but who knows I did get the stelladaptor(supercharger) mod to work once and used sblaster to load files into 2600 once but the 1010 is a super pain in the butt I almost got it to work but who knows weather the head is still aligned or needs cleaned or the binder is the right size.
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Again Gorf, I'm with you 100%. I meant to say "I think the Wii has proven you don't have to have the latest hardware to be competitive". My reason for stating that is to say: I think the Jag II could be very competitive in this market. And yes, it does come down to games. I know some of the stuff you have done for the Jag. I have followed a lot of that stuff. I think you are definitely capable of supplying these great games, but it is going to take an act of God to get Atari to do this.Or a massive letter writing campaign. (I don't see that happening either, we're talking 1000's of letters and not emails)
Another thing, I was in a few stores today and noticed plenty of game consoles but no cheap computers. A FB3 with a ps keyboard port could tap a market there. Throw in a few programming languages, a word processor with spell check, et cetera and you can also mention they can learn programming on the box. I though I heard this thing might have a ps2 port and SD card slot so it could be an add on. $55 programming package. Get a keyboard and all the languages and assemblers we can dig up on an SD...
you just described my COMPAQ n610c laptop w a sd memmory stick reader!!!
THE GOOD NEWS IS TARGET STILL HAS atari joystick PLUG PLAY DEVICES. NOW WE NEED TO GET THEM TO USE A SD STICK BASED game key!!!!!!! THATS WHAT WE NEED TO GET THEM TO LET US PLAY W.
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sounds like a bad connection or bad aztech rf modulator in stadnd by mode do you mean atari attract mode .I meant when you turn it on, but before the reset switch is pushed.
I did reflow the solder points of the TIA chip on the board, but no change.
Wouldn't a bad modulator cause that effect all the time, whether standby or actual play?
sounds like the aft on youre color tv is screwey ??? automatic color lock did you push that so you could roast the colors on the tv or are you using video in??? cause when you use a old tuner and PUSH IN THE DIAL IT TURNS OFF THE AFT AND THE AUTO COLOR then when you set the rf point it turns the aft automatic fine tuning back on witch on the atari sucks its only good for listning to uhf sound while cars drive by and screw the sound up so it migh be the tv but it could as whell be the big 5v cap witch isnt a 5v but it has the 5v from the lm340T the 3905 volt regulator if youre using bad power it could have an effect OH shit crap DID YOU SOLDER A RF CAN FROM AN ORIGINAL ATARI CART ONTO THE CART CHIP mabie youre having rf can problems cause you never put the rf can back into the atari witch keeps it self from interfering w it self I use those interference lines witch look like super light transparent translucent like a telecaption but _ lines like yars revenge but if I put a choke on the POWER PACK WIRE and move it around or unplug the external cart on the flashback modded to take carts or turn it off since the color/bw switch has been rewired to the external cart mod or the built in at the bottom in the down postion the switch is crappy and you can get both to come on at the same time witch causes super cool flash type glitches if im running snoopy in the external cart slot but started in flashback missile command 1st then push up to start snoopy it always boots snoopy but those rf interference lines i can see the plane comming or in other games like fb II adv i can see the bird or the draggons in the memmory and thus i have found out how to avoid them l..
what you need to do it make a mpeg or mpg and rename it to mpeg so it can be played in a dvd player .. anyway I bet you will figure it out mabie you need a scope!!!..
good luck..
id youre power pack 500mA or .5 amps at least otherwise youcould just use a computer power supply and the 5v cause you know its clean and 5v!
lots of computer chips have tanalum caps for noise infact some sockets have them built in look in digikey catalog and you see them thats why all memmory sticks always have caps sticking out.
oh also was the numbers EXACTLY the same ....
mine is a 4 switcher not the one thats all RF CAN but the big board one witch worked great to rip apart and insert flashback II pcb and steal access to the switches I used the ch3 ch4 switch for bw/color switch cause its on the back witch was convenient!! then i used the color /bw switch for cart/built in so i snipped sticker to say cart and BM this means cart I flipped the w from thew b.w upside down to use it for BM built in memmory flashbackk II games and cart for carts.
then i scrapped every switch from the game exept for the power one witch i just scrapped the 5v out put off at a point where i fed it to the fb so when you turn it off the cap is still charged so if you want to turn it off you must unplug the power pack and wait till the cap dies but if you turn the switch off it goes off im just talking about discharging the cap.
it looks just like a normal 4 switcher now exept for the color/bw switch stickers are a little messy.
btw did you use a magnet to see if that effects the bleeding??? cause if it does then you just need to degsuss witch means if you are GOOD you can get a extention cord and use youre computer monitor to run the coil but the hard part would be of course removing the coil from youre computer monitor. I btw never even plugged the degauss coil in any of my arcade monitors cause its just hooking a coil to 110v and that just suck power and I actually dont need cause i use the solder gun or my dad has a 200v variac adjustable outlet and a degaussing could he made a long time ago..
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this post totally sucked and was a even longer rant so i just ediedted it to be nothing..
continue w the original Atari 2600 hacks > Hack'em /hangly man combined: ).
oh the attched file needs to be renamed to atariedit.exe its just hackomatic II It doesnt require
.net but is not as good as hackomatic III.
Also thank you Nukey for at least responding to my pm.
I didnt mean you were bitchy I guess i was being pushy I applogize twice....
I was trying to find out if you Sell any Versions as carts or are they just for enjoyment Downloads..
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I took some pictures of me using hackomatic II I am nowhere as good as neukey and his HACK'em I just clicked
the mouse on hackomatic II and changed the go to ready.. I just wanted to see how good my pictures looked the cart doesnt have
hangly man I cant seem to figure out what to send the burner I wonder if nukey ever produced one cause it would sell like hot cakes here..
anyway there is a pic of my crockrocks cart I made w printer and pictures of hackem w < aw on intro screen its a older version.
i decided to clean this post up cause the other older one was to long of a rant.
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It was nearly perfect. I'll take pics tomorrow, but the chassis was nearly perfect, even said Atari on the db9 plug! The only difference that was noticable was the circuitboard. It didn't have the three-legged dome switches, but round with one flat side, and the screws holding it together had a more aquared off head (just less rounded really). I'll show pics tomorrow, it's at the shop.Nathan
i remember those buttons are more springy and the color differnce in the fire button
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It was nearly perfect. I'll take pics tomorrow, but the chassis was nearly perfect, even said Atari on the db9 plug! The only difference that was noticable was the circuitboard. It didn't have the three-legged dome switches, but round with one flat side, and the screws holding it together had a more aquared off head (just less rounded really). I'll show pics tomorrow, it's at the shop.Nathan
i THINK ATARI JUST HAD THOSE MADE IN mexico . I remember that as a kid I thought those were cool does the button have a springy feel to it cause those are cool.
I still have the two slick sticks i got off ebay one has a cracked knob but some tape rammed in fixed it and the other one i dont use
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I replaced all of the Tv's in my house except one with either plasma or LCD panels, and needed to get rid of the old stuff, so I gave a couple away and sold my old rear projection hdtv for cheap.HD, plasma, LCD - Bah! Humbug!
Give me a tube set any day. I hate all this stupid 16:9 aspect ratio garbage. Why stretch and distort your picture, and take up more horizontal space for less overall screen size? I don't get it.
I _much_ prefer CRT's.
But then again, I still listen to cassettes and vinyl records, use a rotary phone and play video games on the Atari. But that's just me
-Ian
I just restored a beige princes TOUCH TONE CLASSIC TOUCH TONE COMPLETE W THE ROUND choke coils NOT SMASHED and has the LIGHTED white lit touch tone keys I have put a YELLOW LED inside ok two of them inside so if i hook it up polarity right the phone lights up when you dial then you simply use the original key light switch to turn the lit keys back off to HEAR the phone THIS original western electric not for sale phone I got at good will works way better than the crap nortel crap i was using they ust dont make phones like they used to wow the mic has a 58 stamped on it hmm i wonder if the charcol microphone is from 1958!!! it also says
sticker e
but the coolesT thig is it states the ringer Equivilance of 1.0A and with a nother $1.00 crap phone i have they both ring but this one has a REAL
Western Electric bell and has that bell and Bell System Property
NOT FOR SALE
stamped into the botom also it has some &umber stickers and a Property of Northwestern Bell
I know that the At&t store used to sell these right after the big bells broke apart SO i agree w you I know that you can dial almost as fast w a atari modem using pulses .
NOW I ALWAYS wanted to listen to a record w a fake tape one of those walkman to mp3 player adaptors a fake tape hooked to a record so i could push dolby button and see what that sounded like compred to just using the rca inputs .
i THINK I GOT TO THE END OF THE FIDO NET FOR TODAY!! GOOD PHUPPY FIDO MAIL IS COOL
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Heres one to try and figure out. Just picked up another 4 switcher today and when you turn it on, the color "drops'. Hard to describe, but for example, on Circus Atari, when you power it up in standby, the blue cascades like a waterfall from top to bottom and goes to a darker blue on most of the screen, but 1/4 of it on the left side still remains the lighter blue.On Pac Man, in the standby mode, there are various blue/purple splotches.
I changed all the chips, checked potentiometer, power supply, etc. No issues with any.
Could a bad cap cause it? Any advice? Thanks!
sounds like a bad connection or bad aztech rf modulator in stadnd by mode do you mean atari attract mode .
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Thanks for the information on the adjustments. I wish I knew how to adjust it but I've got no clue. Maybe I'll ask around and see if I can find a half decent repairman.This TV is the one my grandmother bought me back in 1981 so I'd have a TV to play games on. I'm going to look for used TVs on craigslist as you all recommended but I'd love to get this TV fixed up! I've got serious sentimental value attached to this baby.
I have a set that's _very_ similar to that one. I don't remember for sure, but that might have a delta gun tube in it, as opposed to in-line. On delta gun tubes, the fine convergence is done differently than an in-line. Take the cover off, and look inside. If you see a board with a bunch of controls on it (usually near the top - upper right when viewed from the back), it's a delta gun tube. These controls adjust the dynamic convergence. There should be a legend there that tells what section of the screen each affects. Be very careful adjusting these, as they're not necessarily independent of each other! So adjust in small increments. Best to have a test pattern on the screen when doing this. I have a DVD I burned with various crosshatch patterns that I use for aligning sets.
Post pictures of the problem you're having with the picture, and a picture of the inside back of the set. I'll see if I can help you.
-Ian
Thanks for the offer! I'll post some pics Friday night. I don't know what kind of tube it is but there are adjustments on the back of the set. I've tried playing with them but it doesn't correct the bleed I get on the left side of the screen.
Since a few of you got the RCA TV at Wal*Mart and had success with it maybe I'll give it a shot. I'll go down and give it another look.
Again... that you everyone for your input!
mabie the thing needs degaussed or there is a strong speaker magnet near it if the tv is that old i know the tube yoke has those purity rings on it you can rotate them around two at a time then move the two singley then turn the middle ones together and sepratly some DONT MOVE so if you think you can take cover off and adjust this mabie it would work.
what model is it
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I replaced all of the Tv's in my house except one with either plasma or LCD panels, and needed to get rid of the old stuff, so I gave a couple away and sold my old rear projection hdtv for cheap.HD, plasma, LCD - Bah! Humbug!
Give me a tube set any day. I hate all this stupid 16:9 aspect ratio garbage. Why stretch and distort your picture, and take up more horizontal space for less overall screen size? I don't get it.
I _much_ prefer CRT's.
But then again, I still listen to cassettes and vinyl records, use a rotary phone and play video games on the Atari. But that's just me
-Ian
16:9 has nothing to do w screen I am using a rca 8001 type digital tv tuner and I get 16:9 ratio on my 4:3 tv so it crops 1 inch around whole screen making it a smaller square but i SEE all I dont give a crap about losing 1 inch around whole picture as long as i SEE the whole sides but if i strech the tv tuner it zooms withc sucke and cuts off a lot of the picture so i leave it in 16:9 mode I have to use ch3 cause my $99.99 target memmorex tv
only has ch3 in so every thing goes into my vcr witch if i wanted i could ram rca dtv box into a hauppauge then into the vcr using the
TV VIEW external vga to tv box then i could use descaler and just strech it back!!! gouge I can also use the ZOOM mode of the external vga to composite tvview box to zoom letter box witch i hate out of a dvd by making a super small dvd window over near the xp clock!!! this way i can use the tvview zoom and move it to that corner cutting off the unused letterboxing cause the vga to tv zoom window cant SEE it if i fenagle it around you cant even tell this makes dvd movies that are not even full screen stay 16:9 but i chomp the letter box away JUST LIKE A bigscreen tv.
so its only 53Hz on the composite who the fuck cares at least i dont get that crock 4 millesecond artifact crock when a black sceen comes on w black feathers from uncompression to lcd errors witch drive me nuts on my dads sony proector big screen THIS DONT HAPPEN he says three months till it needs a new bulb I could live w that. but the thing i love about using a hauppauge tv tuner on my computer the most is the ability to use the pal 32 in 1 cart just by telling the hauppauge to goto japan tuner mode pal mode ch 3 then it stops the vertical rolling also on the computer the ATARI colors are always correct especcilaly using stella xp from source forge I was playing hackman hanglypacman i modified to start out w a pacman and aw then it said
RE
ady!
instead of go
and i noticed i forgot to turn off the screen saver and it said
XP PRO MEDIA CENTER but it was FULL SCREEN in 320x240 witch was trippy cause i forgot i pushed esc to escape game so the screen saver came on and the GUI for stella x was still in 320x240 so the screen saver was so it moved around only like 1 inch on the screen i thought this was funny
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NOW as far as i remember the FOR COMPOSITE ONLY the lumina and chroma short to snd gnd for atari 800 din cable anyway just hook up and start shorting single pins to gnd untill you see color burst ROAST and the colors will look unltra roasted like they are subposed to be!!!..
so as long as you can See the 16:9 ratio the vertical size shouuldnt matter Unless you make a big deal about 720p witch on my computer is a crock cause the tvview only does 53Hz compisite sometimes a small glitch rolls up its like about 5 lines going up shifted to the left about a centimeter this is not very big deal to me cause its better than seeing a Delay in action. so far watching tv on my laptop still sucks but its 1400x1050 32bit lcd screen shure looks great for using it as a computer. what they need is to up the cache on computer tv tuners I think so you have to wait 10 seconds to get the tv but after that no milisecond delay would definently be a better picture thisway you could hook youre computer to the new tv and basicly chomp it into making it have a better computer signal than its tuner can!!!!! cause you use the DVI connector right from computer vga card video card and if you have a pci express this should have the dvi connector witch would allow you to use the biggest mode the tv can display from a dvd big fucken deal 720p progressive scan is a mode a nvidia card will do too but 1080x720 is not as good as 1400x1050 now is it interlaced or not that mode blows compared to 1400x1050 so the tv makers have to catch up to the computer age and buy some cache ram. we need a tv to use a
P 4 for compression and the amd for caching the 3dnow of the p4's video thisway you could have a 0 milisecond responce time cause it would be like a laptop screen casue it would cache before it let the lcd see it thus making it about 2 ms witch i guess i could live w wow i just rambled that .. sorry
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Curt posted a picture of a portable 2600 somewhere on AA (I'm too lazy to look for it right now), that was most likely going to be the FB3. Hopefully, this project will still happen... I would be all over a portable 2600... Assuming it takes cartridges or allows me to add games on a flash card.No, that was the Flashback 2.5, it was never the 3.
I think this stuff is a waste of time. Either come out with an all powerful new console with emulators
or so you can have the classics and the lastest game tech or dont bother at all.
The two flashbacks I bought collect dust.
Jaguar II chipset at a much higher clock (I've been told this is possible by FPGA guru's) would be enough
to handle any classic system emulation and still play games at the Wii level. Get that friggin VR add-on
ready and really bitchslap the Wii's wiimote advantage.
Now that sounds like a good idea. Heck, the Jaguar II chipset already exists so there is no need to reinvent the wheel here. To be honest, I don't see that happening anymore than a FB3 though. (but it would be nice)
yea I somewhere have some software that lets you use atari800.exe on a psp I dont have a playstation portble but
would think that would be suffiecent to suffice a atari fix to beable to play dkong on a protable system.
acroding to kurt v copyright contract w jaks pacific and the © owners he has to wait till it goes back to public domain again or they let him tell us how the flashback c-mos OS operating system kind of like awdflash.exe /D the d means dont erease the program the .bin file runs on just update the new stuff I dont see why some one dont just come out w a atari2600 cart w memmory stick build in and a usb plug on it or just a socket for a memmory stick that emulates a atari cartridge w some lcd device to let you choose some address like a basic stamp to choose witch game you want to run I see no reason you couldnt emulate a cart socket and since it comes EMPTY w no roms in it no one would care.
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Yes - I've made sure that the drive switches are set to the left. My thinking is that something must be wrong with the drive, since even when it isn't plugged into the computer, it still continuously starts to spin, stops, and does it again ad infinitum. In other words, it doesn't really give the user a chance to insert a disk, since after the first time the busy light turns off, it turns right back on again.sounds like bad solder points or a lose connection intermitent I have seen whole boards on ebay for those.
I guess i was reading the end of the posts and didnt see this one.
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First thing I would do is to see what happens when you turn on the drive with the top removed and the front facing towards you.If the head moves towards you then away again, then you have some sort of logic problem.
If it doesn't move at all, the problem is in the stepper motor area, either the 12V or the drive circutry.
If the head only moves towards towards you or bounces when very close to the disk spindle, then the problem lays in the track 0 sensor area. See if you can manually move the head (with the drive turned off to make sure it isn't stuck).
One big thing you may have picked up in the other theads is the capactors. replacing these may fix your problem.
james
Hi everyone -I'm totally new to Atari, but recently wound up with a pair of 800XL's and a single 1050 Disk Drive that a professor of mine was about to throw away. In any case, the 800XL's both turn on and boot to BASIC just fine, and operate from there without a hitch, and they can both load cartridges without any problems. The 1050, however, acts strangely. When I turn it on, the power light comes on, and the busy light turns on too, and you can hear the drive spinning for a moment. It stops spinning and the busy light turns off after a second or two, but then, a little while later, will come back on and the disk drive starts spinning again. And then it stops again, and starts again, and keeps doing that. I've tried turning it on with and without a disk inside of the drive, and it doesn't change this behavior. When used with either of the 800XL's, before the word "Ready" comes up in BASIC, there's a noise that I think was described here as "farty", which from what I understand is an error code? What I'm trying to figure out is whether this is a problem with the SIO cable, or if something is mechanically wrong with the Drive, and if so, what I can do to fix it. Thanks a lot for your help!
wow mabie he just needs a disk with something on it mabie thats the problem also mabie it needs cleaned otherwise adjust the allen screw on the fly the exact opposite way its pushing.. good luck the easyst way to fix that is w frogger boot disk 800 version an autoload version of frogger.
GOOD LUCK.
I would try a known disk in a known atari drive then find a formated one boot from known working drive as drive one then switch to youre suspect disc drive then once in basic dos dos then try formating a disk more than once once it starts the format function and finnally works it seems easyer to use .
I have been known to use cassette cleaner and a que tip on the heads W OUT smacking them together w it on this usually fixes it if its an aligment problem witch i dont think it is its harder to do I was farting around w frogger autoload disk this disk you can put in and it will load up w out basic to frogger so i had problems and found the alignment to the stepper motor was going gnank shannank and i accidently pushed it farther than i thought it was trying to go the exact opposite way electoricly but it was actually reading it over and over trying to work its way to the begining of the FART like noise movment so you help it along pushing it back IN witch means rotate not the motor but the other pully the other way the smallest you can adjust w out scrwing it up moving it clock wise a teany bit will allow it to move the other way more when starting a read. this fixed my drive . I just hope you either have a dirty head or just dont have a properly formated data file quoting bender from futurama. GOOD LUCK.
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ever NOTICE MOST VIDEO GAME MOVIE video game noises are coleco'sAtari 2600 donkey kong but they are clearly
playing some other game EXEPT for the movie "War games" in witch he got 222 for shots fired
in galaga and his address was333
for his house address ALso missile command had REAL sounds in WAR GAMES movie..
Also they used Galaga sound when the NORAD screen said welcome.
this article
the doteaters
is a really good article on the web
here is really good article i loved reading
http://www.emuunlim.com/doteaters/
it shows cool pictures of that magnavox guy.
also i remember one of my freinds had a Atari motor cycle Jump game he would allow us to watch him play but NEVER touch Whell now i know why would you let someone ride youre motorcycle if you knew it was a collectors item even if it was brand new. I also got a Pong unit from thrift store twice one w bad battery cover and a nother one w good battery cover but bad battery holder so i replaced battery holder . the other one i took a Target CUBE furniture wooden box and added plexiglass and some black vinyl and a orange zenith composite computer montor the screen is like only 9 inches big and then added coin slot to back no lock you have to take apart to play its being used as furniture. I still like the 2600 and chose that to mod the flashback II into.
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BURNING ROMS TO EEPROMS
in Atari 2600
Posted
I am trying to burn a atari .bin file to a REAL eeprom burner and am having problems . I started w a snoopy cart i got from somone here it was only to be used to be erased to use for my asteroids hack witch i successfully did but now i want MORE games on other chips so far since that one day the power went off when i had one plugged in backwards in the burner i forgot what to send the burner . I have successfully sent it files at 7,2,none but i cant remember weather i send a .hex file using bin2hex or just send it original stella .bin type file in anyone has info on what to send burner please help. I tried it once and got a nother blank eeprom to take new file but when testing it it booted into asteroids again!!!!!!!!!! wtf then it crashed after 4 seconds of play I thought it might have been the pal bank switching chip w memmory stuck in it but who knows. I know it was blank cause i erased it w ultra violet light for 33 minnutes and it said check done also when i sent it a binary file in .hex format after chaning from bin2hex.exe i sent it a .hex file w burner in intel hex I havent tried ascii hex but thats next.