awace

I took the 1010 out today and decided to goto target and get some rubber binders but that only fixed the drive mech not the tape head alignment and since i cant find my boombox i dont have time to screw around w it although i did think of using a FAKE MP3 player type tape to see if that would work w mp3 recorder!!???? I doubt it but who knows I did get the stelladaptor(supercharger) mod to work once and used sblaster to load files into 2600 once but the 1010 is a super pain in the butt I almost got it to work but who knows weather the head is still aligned or needs cleaned or the binder is the right size.

Another thing, I was in a few stores today and noticed plenty of game consoles but no cheap computers. A FB3 with a ps keyboard port could tap a market there. Throw in a few programming languages, a word processor with spell check, et cetera and you can also mention they can learn programming on the box. I though I heard this thing might have a ps2 port and SD card slot so it could be an add on. $55 programming package. Get a keyboard and all the languages and assemblers we can dig up on an SD... you just described my COMPAQ n610c laptop w a sd memmory stick reader!!! THE GOOD NEWS IS TARGET STILL HAS atari joystick PLUG PLAY DEVICES. NOW WE NEED TO GET THEM TO USE A SD STICK BASED game key!!!!!!! THATS WHAT WE NEED TO GET THEM TO LET US PLAY W.

I meant when you turn it on, but before the reset switch is pushed. I did reflow the solder points of the TIA chip on the board, but no change. Wouldn't a bad modulator cause that effect all the time, whether standby or actual play? sounds like the aft on youre color tv is screwey ??? automatic color lock did you push that so you could roast the colors on the tv or are you using video in??? cause when you use a old tuner and PUSH IN THE DIAL IT TURNS OFF THE AFT AND THE AUTO COLOR then when you set the rf point it turns the aft automatic fine tuning back on witch on the atari sucks its only good for listning to uhf sound while cars drive by and screw the sound up so it migh be the tv but it could as whell be the big 5v cap witch isnt a 5v but it has the 5v from the lm340T the 3905 volt regulator if youre using bad power it could have an effect OH shit crap DID YOU SOLDER A RF CAN FROM AN ORIGINAL ATARI CART ONTO THE CART CHIP mabie youre having rf can problems cause you never put the rf can back into the atari witch keeps it self from interfering w it self I use those interference lines witch look like super light transparent translucent like a telecaption but _ lines like yars revenge but if I put a choke on the POWER PACK WIRE and move it around or unplug the external cart on the flashback modded to take carts or turn it off since the color/bw switch has been rewired to the external cart mod or the built in at the bottom in the down postion the switch is crappy and you can get both to come on at the same time witch causes super cool flash type glitches if im running snoopy in the external cart slot but started in flashback missile command 1st then push up to start snoopy it always boots snoopy but those rf interference lines i can see the plane comming or in other games like fb II adv i can see the bird or the draggons in the memmory and thus i have found out how to avoid them l.. what you need to do it make a mpeg or mpg and rename it to mpeg so it can be played in a dvd player .. anyway I bet you will figure it out mabie you need a scope!!!.. good luck.. id youre power pack 500mA or .5 amps at least otherwise youcould just use a computer power supply and the 5v cause you know its clean and 5v! lots of computer chips have tanalum caps for noise infact some sockets have them built in look in digikey catalog and you see them thats why all memmory sticks always have caps sticking out. oh also was the numbers EXACTLY the same .... mine is a 4 switcher not the one thats all RF CAN but the big board one witch worked great to rip apart and insert flashback II pcb and steal access to the switches I used the ch3 ch4 switch for bw/color switch cause its on the back witch was convenient!! then i used the color /bw switch for cart/built in so i snipped sticker to say cart and BM this means cart I flipped the w from thew b.w upside down to use it for BM built in memmory flashbackk II games and cart for carts. then i scrapped every switch from the game exept for the power one witch i just scrapped the 5v out put off at a point where i fed it to the fb so when you turn it off the cap is still charged so if you want to turn it off you must unplug the power pack and wait till the cap dies but if you turn the switch off it goes off im just talking about discharging the cap. it looks just like a normal 4 switcher now exept for the color/bw switch stickers are a little messy. btw did you use a magnet to see if that effects the bleeding??? cause if it does then you just need to degsuss witch means if you are GOOD you can get a extention cord and use youre computer monitor to run the coil but the hard part would be of course removing the coil from youre computer monitor. I btw never even plugged the degauss coil in any of my arcade monitors cause its just hooking a coil to 110v and that just suck power and I actually dont need cause i use the solder gun or my dad has a 200v variac adjustable outlet and a degaussing could he made a long time ago..

this post totally sucked and was a even longer rant so i just ediedted it to be nothing.. continue w the original Atari 2600 hacks > Hack'em /hangly man combined: ). oh the attched file needs to be renamed to atariedit.exe its just hackomatic II It doesnt require .net but is not as good as hackomatic III. Also thank you Nukey for at least responding to my pm. I didnt mean you were bitchy I guess i was being pushy I applogize twice.... I was trying to find out if you Sell any Versions as carts or are they just for enjoyment Downloads.. atariedit.bin

I took some pictures of me using hackomatic II I am nowhere as good as neukey and his HACK'em I just clicked the mouse on hackomatic II and changed the go to ready.. I just wanted to see how good my pictures looked the cart doesnt have hangly man I cant seem to figure out what to send the burner I wonder if nukey ever produced one cause it would sell like hot cakes here.. anyway there is a pic of my crockrocks cart I made w printer and pictures of hackem w < aw on intro screen its a older version. i decided to clean this post up cause the other older one was to long of a rant. 111.bin a1.bin a1wwins.bin adam1.bin adams_.bin awwins.bin

i remember those buttons are more springy and the color differnce in the fire button

i THINK ATARI JUST HAD THOSE MADE IN mexico . I remember that as a kid I thought those were cool does the button have a springy feel to it cause those are cool. I still have the two slick sticks i got off ebay one has a cracked knob but some tape rammed in fixed it and the other one i dont use

HD, plasma, LCD - Bah! Humbug! Give me a tube set any day. I hate all this stupid 16:9 aspect ratio garbage. Why stretch and distort your picture, and take up more horizontal space for less overall screen size? I don't get it. I _much_ prefer CRT's. But then again, I still listen to cassettes and vinyl records, use a rotary phone and play video games on the Atari. But that's just me -Ian I just restored a beige princes TOUCH TONE CLASSIC TOUCH TONE COMPLETE W THE ROUND choke coils NOT SMASHED and has the LIGHTED white lit touch tone keys I have put a YELLOW LED inside ok two of them inside so if i hook it up polarity right the phone lights up when you dial then you simply use the original key light switch to turn the lit keys back off to HEAR the phone THIS original western electric not for sale phone I got at good will works way better than the crap nortel crap i was using they ust dont make phones like they used to wow the mic has a 58 stamped on it hmm i wonder if the charcol microphone is from 1958!!! it also says sticker e but the coolesT thig is it states the ringer Equivilance of 1.0A and with a nother $1.00 crap phone i have they both ring but this one has a REAL Western Electric bell and has that bell and Bell System Property NOT FOR SALE stamped into the botom also it has some &umber stickers and a Property of Northwestern Bell I know that the At&t store used to sell these right after the big bells broke apart SO i agree w you I know that you can dial almost as fast w a atari modem using pulses . NOW I ALWAYS wanted to listen to a record w a fake tape one of those walkman to mp3 player adaptors a fake tape hooked to a record so i could push dolby button and see what that sounded like compred to just using the rca inputs . i THINK I GOT TO THE END OF THE FIDO NET FOR TODAY!! GOOD PHUPPY FIDO MAIL IS COOL

sounds like a bad connection or bad aztech rf modulator in stadnd by mode do you mean atari attract mode .

I have a set that's _very_ similar to that one. I don't remember for sure, but that might have a delta gun tube in it, as opposed to in-line. On delta gun tubes, the fine convergence is done differently than an in-line. Take the cover off, and look inside. If you see a board with a bunch of controls on it (usually near the top - upper right when viewed from the back), it's a delta gun tube. These controls adjust the dynamic convergence. There should be a legend there that tells what section of the screen each affects. Be very careful adjusting these, as they're not necessarily independent of each other! So adjust in small increments. Best to have a test pattern on the screen when doing this. I have a DVD I burned with various crosshatch patterns that I use for aligning sets. Post pictures of the problem you're having with the picture, and a picture of the inside back of the set. I'll see if I can help you. -Ian Thanks for the offer! I'll post some pics Friday night. I don't know what kind of tube it is but there are adjustments on the back of the set. I've tried playing with them but it doesn't correct the bleed I get on the left side of the screen. Since a few of you got the RCA TV at Wal*Mart and had success with it maybe I'll give it a shot. I'll go down and give it another look. Again... that you everyone for your input! mabie the thing needs degaussed or there is a strong speaker magnet near it if the tv is that old i know the tube yoke has those purity rings on it you can rotate them around two at a time then move the two singley then turn the middle ones together and sepratly some DONT MOVE so if you think you can take cover off and adjust this mabie it would work. what model is it

HD, plasma, LCD - Bah! Humbug! Give me a tube set any day. I hate all this stupid 16:9 aspect ratio garbage. Why stretch and distort your picture, and take up more horizontal space for less overall screen size? I don't get it. I _much_ prefer CRT's. But then again, I still listen to cassettes and vinyl records, use a rotary phone and play video games on the Atari. But that's just me -Ian 16:9 has nothing to do w screen I am using a rca 8001 type digital tv tuner and I get 16:9 ratio on my 4:3 tv so it crops 1 inch around whole screen making it a smaller square but i SEE all I dont give a crap about losing 1 inch around whole picture as long as i SEE the whole sides but if i strech the tv tuner it zooms withc sucke and cuts off a lot of the picture so i leave it in 16:9 mode I have to use ch3 cause my $99.99 target memmorex tv only has ch3 in so every thing goes into my vcr witch if i wanted i could ram rca dtv box into a hauppauge then into the vcr using the TV VIEW external vga to tv box then i could use descaler and just strech it back!!! gouge I can also use the ZOOM mode of the external vga to composite tvview box to zoom letter box witch i hate out of a dvd by making a super small dvd window over near the xp clock!!! this way i can use the tvview zoom and move it to that corner cutting off the unused letterboxing cause the vga to tv zoom window cant SEE it if i fenagle it around you cant even tell this makes dvd movies that are not even full screen stay 16:9 but i chomp the letter box away JUST LIKE A bigscreen tv. so its only 53Hz on the composite who the fuck cares at least i dont get that crock 4 millesecond artifact crock when a black sceen comes on w black feathers from uncompression to lcd errors witch drive me nuts on my dads sony proector big screen THIS DONT HAPPEN he says three months till it needs a new bulb I could live w that. but the thing i love about using a hauppauge tv tuner on my computer the most is the ability to use the pal 32 in 1 cart just by telling the hauppauge to goto japan tuner mode pal mode ch 3 then it stops the vertical rolling also on the computer the ATARI colors are always correct especcilaly using stella xp from source forge I was playing hackman hanglypacman i modified to start out w a pacman and aw then it said RE ady! instead of go and i noticed i forgot to turn off the screen saver and it said XP PRO MEDIA CENTER but it was FULL SCREEN in 320x240 witch was trippy cause i forgot i pushed esc to escape game so the screen saver came on and the GUI for stella x was still in 320x240 so the screen saver was so it moved around only like 1 inch on the screen i thought this was funny . NOW as far as i remember the FOR COMPOSITE ONLY the lumina and chroma short to snd gnd for atari 800 din cable anyway just hook up and start shorting single pins to gnd untill you see color burst ROAST and the colors will look unltra roasted like they are subposed to be!!!.. so as long as you can See the 16:9 ratio the vertical size shouuldnt matter Unless you make a big deal about 720p witch on my computer is a crock cause the tvview only does 53Hz compisite sometimes a small glitch rolls up its like about 5 lines going up shifted to the left about a centimeter this is not very big deal to me cause its better than seeing a Delay in action. so far watching tv on my laptop still sucks but its 1400x1050 32bit lcd screen shure looks great for using it as a computer. what they need is to up the cache on computer tv tuners I think so you have to wait 10 seconds to get the tv but after that no milisecond delay would definently be a better picture thisway you could hook youre computer to the new tv and basicly chomp it into making it have a better computer signal than its tuner can!!!!! cause you use the DVI connector right from computer vga card video card and if you have a pci express this should have the dvi connector witch would allow you to use the biggest mode the tv can display from a dvd big fucken deal 720p progressive scan is a mode a nvidia card will do too but 1080x720 is not as good as 1400x1050 now is it interlaced or not that mode blows compared to 1400x1050 so the tv makers have to catch up to the computer age and buy some cache ram. we need a tv to use a P 4 for compression and the amd for caching the 3dnow of the p4's video thisway you could have a 0 milisecond responce time cause it would be like a laptop screen casue it would cache before it let the lcd see it thus making it about 2 ms witch i guess i could live w wow i just rambled that .. sorry

No, that was the Flashback 2.5, it was never the 3. I think this stuff is a waste of time. Either come out with an all powerful new console with emulators or so you can have the classics and the lastest game tech or dont bother at all. The two flashbacks I bought collect dust. Jaguar II chipset at a much higher clock (I've been told this is possible by FPGA guru's) would be enough to handle any classic system emulation and still play games at the Wii level. Get that friggin VR add-on ready and really bitchslap the Wii's wiimote advantage. Now that sounds like a good idea. Heck, the Jaguar II chipset already exists so there is no need to reinvent the wheel here. To be honest, I don't see that happening anymore than a FB3 though. (but it would be nice) yea I somewhere have some software that lets you use atari800.exe on a psp I dont have a playstation portble but would think that would be suffiecent to suffice a atari fix to beable to play dkong on a protable system. acroding to kurt v copyright contract w jaks pacific and the © owners he has to wait till it goes back to public domain again or they let him tell us how the flashback c-mos OS operating system kind of like awdflash.exe /D the d means dont erease the program the .bin file runs on just update the new stuff I dont see why some one dont just come out w a atari2600 cart w memmory stick build in and a usb plug on it or just a socket for a memmory stick that emulates a atari cartridge w some lcd device to let you choose some address like a basic stamp to choose witch game you want to run I see no reason you couldnt emulate a cart socket and since it comes EMPTY w no roms in it no one would care.

sounds like bad solder points or a lose connection intermitent I have seen whole boards on ebay for those. I guess i was reading the end of the posts and didnt see this one.

wow mabie he just needs a disk with something on it mabie thats the problem also mabie it needs cleaned otherwise adjust the allen screw on the fly the exact opposite way its pushing.. good luck the easyst way to fix that is w frogger boot disk 800 version an autoload version of frogger. GOOD LUCK. I would try a known disk in a known atari drive then find a formated one boot from known working drive as drive one then switch to youre suspect disc drive then once in basic dos dos then try formating a disk more than once once it starts the format function and finnally works it seems easyer to use . I have been known to use cassette cleaner and a que tip on the heads W OUT smacking them together w it on this usually fixes it if its an aligment problem witch i dont think it is its harder to do I was farting around w frogger autoload disk this disk you can put in and it will load up w out basic to frogger so i had problems and found the alignment to the stepper motor was going gnank shannank and i accidently pushed it farther than i thought it was trying to go the exact opposite way electoricly but it was actually reading it over and over trying to work its way to the begining of the FART like noise movment so you help it along pushing it back IN witch means rotate not the motor but the other pully the other way the smallest you can adjust w out scrwing it up moving it clock wise a teany bit will allow it to move the other way more when starting a read. this fixed my drive . I just hope you either have a dirty head or just dont have a properly formated data file quoting bender from futurama. GOOD LUCK.

also i remember one of my freinds had a Atari motor cycle Jump game he would allow us to watch him play but NEVER touch Whell now i know why would you let someone ride youre motorcycle if you knew it was a collectors item even if it was brand new. I also got a Pong unit from thrift store twice one w bad battery cover and a nother one w good battery cover but bad battery holder so i replaced battery holder . the other one i took a Target CUBE furniture wooden box and added plexiglass and some black vinyl and a orange zenith composite computer montor the screen is like only 9 inches big and then added coin slot to back no lock you have to take apart to play its being used as furniture. I still like the 2600 and chose that to mod the flashback II into.

ever NOTICE MOST VIDEO GAME MOVIE video game noises are coleco's Atari 2600 donkey kong but they are clearly playing some other game EXEPT for the movie "War games" in witch he got 222 for shots fired in galaga and his address was333 for his house address ALso missile command had REAL sounds in WAR GAMES movie.. Also they used Galaga sound when the NORAD screen said welcome. this article the doteaters is a really good article on the web here is really good article i loved reading http://www.emuunlim.com/doteaters/ it shows cool pictures of that magnavox guy.

If PIN 12 and 13 of the TIA have a direct connection on the main PCB (a multimeter should read 0 Ohms betweens these two pins), you have an NTSC console. If they are not connected, it's a PAL console. Thorsten so what youre saying is lift pins 12 and 13 and you have a pal atari ! or add socket w pins 13 and 12 lifted as not to ruin chip. I have seen pal jumpers on all the jaks pacific games even the keychains have pal jumper!!!

http://files.flipperspill.no/Support/Arcad...ner/WG-4600.pdf look on page 5 and 6 even though you dont have this monitor all color screens ecept for big screens projections have these purity rings look like round fridge magnet rings you would need to some how get a video of cross hatch pattern so ill capture a jpg from pacman from mame for you then you can just burn a jpg to c closed cdrom and use a newer dvd player to load up picture unless you have a way to load up the atari test pattern cart but the pacman cross hatch pattern works great. all you have to do is get a a rectangle blue type storage container a rubber maid one works great use the lid to keep circut boards from shorting out or you from having to touch them when tv is on then stay away from sucktion cup wire remember you might need a mirror cause you have to reach behind tube to get to yoke knobs and look at screen at same time so do SMALL adjustments I strongly suggest you use cross hatch pattern if w white cross hatch patterns once you get the hang of it you know you got it its kind of a bitch at first but once you figure out what it does its easy to adjust all of them remember you adjust the inner two apart or closer to them selfs i have yet to get them to work aligned pushed together but you can rotated the iner two simultainously all the way around but this makes picture roll around the screen too so remember not to loosen the rubber knobbies holding the yoke wire harness to the tube otherwise the whole picture can be screwed up so the horizon is at angle you wouldnt want this if you screw it up then make shure you turn tv off get some goretex winter towrope ski gloves and use a jumper cable from a mounting screw around frame metal gnd to the suctiuon cup hole DONOT crunch glass ans cause a inplosion. anyway remember if you only adjust the purity rings and use the rubber maid container cover you should have no problems converging the screen back to normal then if you notice a coil around the screen where the frame ring mounts then you have a built in degouseing coil and wont have to worry about kids bringing magnets to close to the tv also you can use a soldering gun to somwhat degauss cause it makes ac waves near the screen .. i spent hours scrwewing around w pacman/s test screen and the wells gardner k4616 4600 series arcade monitor using the windows in my apt and reaching around wooden cabinet arcade cabinet it should be easyer to do this w tv ALSO if you talk to the tv repair man if youre nice and ask really nice mabie he would help you by explaning the purity rings ans since you could do it youre self i think once you look at pdf file here http://files.flipperspill.no/Support/Arcad...ner/WG-4600.pdf page 5 and 6 but this means nothing you use the cross hatch pattern and adjust for 10 minnutes then screw it up drive youre self nuts then come back later after eating a tv dinner then fix it my adjusting remembering what did what the last time . you might find youre self ripping tv apart many times just to screw w the purity rings this is why if you know what youre talking about the tv repair man might just let you do it youre self GOOD LUCK W THAT anyway i see no reason you cant do i t youre self in fact ill take a picture of my arcade tube to SHOW YOU the knobs you need to adjust. 1st pic is of knob on arcade monitor for purity adjustment. 2nd is jpg of pacman adjust test screen the cross hatch screen is not full screen it would be better for you to use a laptop w svideo out or composite out hooked to youre vcr to the tv or just use atari cart tvtest and mame then just pause pacman and then push tilde ~ button and increase pause brightness and then adjust using that screen. then you should not have any problems. anyway good luck. PS wow I didnt know my camera took such good pictures you can also see the yoke wires just to add a tidbit I once made a 13 inch b/w panasonic tv my dad used to use for the altair 8008 as a dumb terminal video monitor I have since went threw a new tuner pack witch has been since bypassed and hooked a 6v relay to a 12v relay stealing power from the tuner power so i can use tv as test bench for space invaders as on the yoke wires if you swap the two inner and the two outer wires around the picture flips like cocktail mode! if you use mame you can just use rol 1 anyway good luck I hope you converge youre tv also if you have a atari 800 you could just make a cross hatch pattern in basic or just go gr.2 ?#6,"#" abuntch of times and since it starts print mostly on the left right it should be easy to adjust .

there are magnetic rings on the yoke the part of the tube with the windings on it these are adjustable. if youre computer can put out composite use a vcr then run atari tv pattern then converge untill you can see only white lines!!!!!!!! i spent hours OK days converging my arcade monitor but this can be done on tv's too. also a degousing coil can fix magnet type problems where the color stays but if its alighment those round ring fridge magnets on the yoke need adjusted. ALSO A solder GUN can be wiggled to degouse if done close you can wave it around and avoid needing a variac and a degouing coil but good luck w the yoke convergence and remember to use a mirror so you can see DON NOT touch the sucktion cup or even get near it and keep youre left hand behind youre self to avoid highvoltage and death. DONOT TOUCH THE WIDTH COIL EVER its high voltage you can use a plastic choke adjusting rod I some times cheat ans use a floss pick. LCD SUCKS even 2 millisecond resopnce time is enough to make you miss ONE smart bomb I wont upgrade my computer monitor cause 18.5 inches is good enough for me espically when playing asteroid ver 1 on mame at 35/35 frames per second I want to see all of them not miss one frame cause some lcd memmory chip has to cache it and assume black level w artifacts and chunks of grey! crt screens rule for video games!.. that repair man was trying to GOUGE you $300 is more than the tv is worth . the good will or thrift store that still takes tv's should have a lot of really good ones people upgraded from. I almost forgot to ramble longerrr if you rip apart a tuner pack that wont work w out wiggleing it you can unsolder it take the channel rotary switch apart then pinch the connectors back then put back together and then ch3 will work great with out any lose connections I did this to a rca tv i bought for $4.95 from a thrift store and now it gets a super great picture TUNER GREASE IS a crock.

Mabie they are waiting for you to find an original stock cert on auction site or what not mabie thats the way to do it. its worth a try anyway. i saw one recently for under $10

I hope you are doing better w youre recovery and hope you dont do to mutch stress drink a lot of FUZE.. get wheller soon!

HMMMMMM interesting I was at Target the other day and noticed the atari 10 game joystick was still avalible but noticed there was a big huge 1 inside a circle then i noticed a nother jaks pacific mspacman this one was a cocktail cabinet plug play and went hmm it had a different number in the circle mabie a 2 i cant remember but i did remember that sponge bob had a 3 so there is 3 versions of the sponge bob plug play I also obtained a single paddle plug and play device and ripped it apart instantly when i got it and found a 1p 2p jumper a pal jumper (not used) since i have ntsc and paddle player 2 input paddle player 1 input SO i took a single pair atari2600 padele and now i have soldered both to the button hole and after lots and lots of melting i finnaly got the main paddle on the unit not to spin and the orignal atari paddles work and you can play 2 player games even though the menu lies and says it wont work it does let you choose 2 player games cause of the jumper added. I also did the flashback hack twice once w the one w the BLACK wire that failed cause i tried to solder pitfall II onto pcb that blew up pitfall II I witch have replaced . I did however do the hack to a diferent version FB II and fit it into a broken 2600 w blown chip then removed the good chips for spares and scrapped all wires off the traces for p1 difficulty p2 difficulty so they would short to gnd then used the CH3-4 switch for the B/w color switch for playing fbII adv making the bw mode makes the walls in the invisible rooms visible mabie a kid mode.. anyway I bought a bootleg cart from someone here w snoopy just so i could play again then i made my own hackomatic verion of crockrocks I renamed asteroids© to c 2007 aw and made the rocks look like aw's and r whell the ®'s have memory holes in them but the aw was made to fit into a rock this was hard because you had to keep adding chunks to hackomatic and think in hexidecimal binary even though i understand binary i cant quite get it my dad made a altair 8008 once so i get the jist of it but cant quite get programming as i would like to anyway I like flashbacking from built in memmory to color( i mean cart mode of the flash back) I used the color /bw switch to switch from built in and cart's this switch was used purposely cause its loose and has two thresholds where the right and left sides of the switch error near the down postistion making it able to let you switch from say cartridge is snoopy and the red barron on that 2764 cart bootleg cart witch no matter what i screw up in the built in mode lock up the snoopy cart ALWAYS BOOTS then i power off NOW I USED THE OUTPUT of the 7805 (340t)5v off the capacitor so i could use a original FUN VISION POWER PACK an original atari 2600 type power pack. so you have to unplug then wait to kill power all the way! but its cool you can start missile command on flashback II and switch to snoopy or asteroids on the bootleg REAL cart cart and sneak back to missile command like POWER FLASHING witch is impossible on this one cause i used the capacitor cause I know my self and didnt want to ruin it so i assumed the capacitor having all that power in it would keep it on WHell it works .. one time a freind was over and he started to screw w the color/bw switch i used to switch between built in memmory and carts and was flashing that switch I told him that was ok but not the power one and that I had MOVED the flashback switch he somehow got the screen to say AREA NOT USED THIS AREA intentualy not used. or some thing like that intentally left blank I was like HOW the hell did you do that and got scared then i wiggled the switch back UP and snoopy booted then i pushed back down and AS assumed it locked up so i pulled the power pack off then snapped the + end to gnd got rid of static then plugged the phono plug back in and it went to the menu I was like COOL a new way to flash so this is cool I thought about a usb stick and wondered if the chip they used was just a disguized memmory stick w .bin files filed in order at memmory locations like pacman 4 in one menu. SO is jaks pacific going to come out w the flashback III or a cart to usb game key or do we have to make the KEY's our self ... being that is the KEY. is to collect all key chains all versions of games and the one who dies w the most toys wins and you cant take them w you. .. hmm mabie they could get pitfall II to load into the new flashback III also before i forget once playing w a sears arcade II just a 2600 w red led's socket selectors for joysticks i was playing pitfall II and remembered someone did something stupid but it worked once I decided to hook a whimpy 6v power pack and hook a 9v power pack in parralel adding to it and found out the music in pfall II went faster w more voltage . this was cool and weird at the same time.

wow i hope that was pasted and you didnt have to type those all in.

Replying to that i say dont worry i still have 5¼ floppys w atari800 dos dos3 dos 5 and dos6 win95 dos cdtech.sys /d:cd and I actaully got the compaq portable suitcase 286 to use a nokia 3589i 3.6v battery and got a 2g western digital hard drive to load up to 259M bytes this was a pain but since i could boot to usb drive on my big machine i decided to just remove the whole floppy rack then boot to the usb drive then sys a: b: a:{being the usb faking a:} then format /q/s then i stole the compaq c-mos setup.exe then booted from the floppy then once the floppy let me into the c-mos w the fully charged nokia 3.6v battery soldered to the motherboard where the dead dead c-mos battery went I was able to choose a drive type witch allowed 259M then once booted to floppy i had win98 dos on it but decided to change it back to dos5 since you cant do anything w out a memmory card i loaded dos5 from usb stick to a: then sys a: c: and pop it booted to the western digital drive!!!!! i was like no way so i got bowling basica and adv.exe yes you want instructions and reincarnated Yes and feed bear. ps. I figured out if you have a sio cable for atari800/400 you can use ape and ultra copy to use virtual drives and copy from it self to it self just copy disk w atari on hooked to computer emulation mode then copy it once then take copy and leave write hole off then just copy it again then it fills the cache on the second virtual drive so on ultra copy you would just do a 1:1 not 1:2 from disk 1 to disk1 w out f for format cause you dont have to format a atr file I once got a image into atari800 once then had to reload xp but it was fun. I also have some win98 machines and I yes still have a machine witch boots to a seagate mfm 225 some times i turn it on w out keyboard or screen to lul me to sleep. I also still have a working atari800 810 I hope it still works but have faith in it .

Once i wanted to play a 32 in one green cart on the 2600 i got off ebay and couldnt play cause i couldnt get the vertical hold to stableize then rememered the hauppauge had a pal tuner mode and shure enough putting it on ch3 in the pal mode or composite pal mode the game worked great ... this worked on the usb version but would work on any tuner that gets old tv signals w a pal tuner button. I dont know weather a digital tv tuner would have pal cause i cant afford a computer digital tv tuner. anyway if you have a regular hauppauge or other tv tuner just use ch3 and pick pal mode!