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About Dropcheck

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    Stigler, OK

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  1. Interested in purchasing this. I hear that there is a chip delay problem?
  2. I've got a crystal resonator coming in Thursday. We'll see then.
  3. FYI I have verified that the main Atari chips and the OS are good in another 800XL. I could not test the Freddie, but I just got that one in from Best Electronics, so I doubt it is bad. So you are saying that these circled passives need to be removed if I am using a full can crystal oscillator? I can remove the can and get a crystal resonator if you aren't sure.
  4. Sorry, my 15 year old camera ain't what she used to be. It flatly refuses to take a pic of the monitor.
  5. All PAL circuitry removed. No tone, but still blank blue screen with red tint.
  6. It's set to stock video and no SRAM now. Same display and now have tone back. I do have all of the PAL clock circuitry installed, but no PAL crystal. Would that cause an issue?
  7. Okay first power up: No keyboard attached. Using a DIN5 to composite/r&l audio RCA cable. UAV settings Initially I got a audio tone and a bluish/black screen. Turned the computer off and reset the DIN5 cable into the connector. Now I am getting a blue blank screen with a definite reddish tint. I'm assuming that one of the main Atari chips are not working. Before I start pulling the chips and doing the mamba swap with my Atari 800XL to see which one is bad, has anyone had a like issue?
  8. I suppose I could try. Not quite ready to power up yet though. Just a few more checks and board/parts review to make sure I have everything installed.
  9. Thing is I'm not using encryption. At least that I know of. I'll check and go ahead and try the rest of them. My programmer is not having any other problems. Worst case I'll have to order a couple more GALs.
  10. Having an issue with programming my GAL22V10D with Horus's v1.3 jed. I am getting a vector test fail indication on five of the 10 chips so far. I tried re-downloading the jed individual file and the zipped file directly from his website. My programmer claims it can program these chips and everything goes well until it attempts to verify the programming. Is it possible I got bad/fake GALs?
  11. Please forgive us. Sometimes we loose something in the translation between languages. Sometimes the translation between the dialect of New England and the South of the US even though we supposedly speak the same English is worse. 🙃 I was trying to get my mind to a yes or no translation of the instructions.
  12. So this seems to be in confusion. Several people have asked the same question. 🙂 Do you have to do the mod to use the original Atari OTP 24 pin chip?
  13. The boards are designed to be put into a 3d printed case. There are also mounting holes in the top right/left corners for support. Sadly I'm not that great at 3d design and so didn't create a case for it. You can also check out Digikey for rubber standoffs. This link will get you started. Measure the distance from the bottom of the board to the next flat surface (desktop?) and keep the diameter of the standoff/rubber feet to no more than 1/2 in or so. There is some limitation on this type of RA extender. Some Atari original cartridges may be difficult to use since they were designed to open using the ears on cartridge slot. Otherwise there is no real 'operation' other than insert the cartridge into the board with the label facing you and then insert into the cartridge slot with the label facing you.
  14. Just realized that I completely missed the indication that the ferrite beads were supposed to be salvaged from an existing 130XE. I checked the Sams manual and of course there is no value listed for them. All my 130XEs are still working, (knock on wood) and I have no desire to open them up and kill them just for the beads. Does anyone know what the value or part # would be for substitutes from Mouser or Digikey?
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