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guus.assmann

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About guus.assmann

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    Moonsweeper
  • Birthday 09/23/1957

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    Netherlands City EDE

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  1. If memory serves right, there's one more difference between Sally and a 6502. The R/W pin is on another location. Just jumper the NC pin and the RW and it should work. Of cource holding the Halt pin high is also needed. BR/ Guus
  2. Hello Tillek, The board is complete and supposedly worked. To the best of my knowledge, the Eproms have an adapted version of Tos 2.06. I have checked the CPU and that's ok in another board. The Eproms not being covered is usually no problem. It takes many days of full sunshine exposure to get them ereased. BR/ Guus
  3. Hello Tillek, I have that board as well, but it doesn't work. Are you able and willing to read the Eproms and sent me the content? That way I can verify if maybe the Eproms are the problem and I can fix the board. Thanks in advance. BR/ Guus
  4. There's an ACC that has a VT100 terminal emulator. Unfortunately, I cannot find it right now. I've used it a lot in the past... BR/ Guus
  5. Hello, If there's still room, please consider adding a terminal emulator. This is what I use the Atari for quite often. It should offer the possibility to upload and download a file in such a manor that it mimics keyboard entry. This makes it possible to use the Atari as a terminal for other Single Board Computers and load/save programs for those. BR/ Guus
  6. This switch has 2 contacts that are insulated from each-other. Both "switch-decks" are separated by extra insulation. That's the black plastic that's visable vertically between the pins. There is not input or output. Looking at your picture, the two pins on either side of the "bridge" in the middle will be connected or not, depending on the position of the switch. So a connection will be between the pins vertically, on either side of the bridge. Or in other words, connect the power input to 2 horizontally placed pins. Connect the wires to the power supply to the other pins. Normally, an Ohm-meter will tell you just fine. And you could test with a small battery and a light-bulb, or motor. So low voltage and only 2 pins = half the switch. That way it cannot go wrong. And now for the disclaimer: If still in doubt, ask for help. But to someone who's physically available. :-) BR/ Guus
  7. Hello, Why not socket the LMC1992 in the 1040STE? Then you can use that to test the other IC's. Of course you need to be able to not destroy the 1040STE. And also, put the suspects in the 1040 and not the LMC1992 from that in the TT. If the TT is the "killer" it won't be able to get the other chip. It's highly unlikely that the 1040STE will be killed by a broken LMC. On the TT, check all spots and traces that may have been in contact with the shielding. And one more thing. Check the metal standoffs of the power supply. They can short out tracks. Specially the one on the left/middle may touch a capacitor. (I mean the metal that's away from the back of the computer.) BR/ Guus
  8. Hello pixelmischief, You're missing the pin, obviously. :-) Now seriously, it seems likely that the pin is missing for a reason. It may have been a reversing safeguard. To be sure, you'd need to verify with the original power supply. If it has no wire on that position it's clear. Does it look like the pin is broken of? Can't see that on the picture. If there's a piece of pin left, check for continuity between the pin-part and the last 3 pins of the connector. I'm writing this, without having a look in a Mega STE. I do have one, but it's quite some work to get it and open it up. Maybe Frank Lucas has one available that's also opened up and still complete. BR/ Guus Assmann
  9. Hello, Some lines? I hope the attachment will do much better. As a Chines proverb says: One picture is better than 1000 words. NB: TT and STE-pwer supplies are identical. BR/ Guus TT_Power_Wires.PDF
  10. @pixelmischief Just now I had a look at the switch. The type (building form) will do just fine. It sort of looks like the one used in the original power suppply. But you should take one that's rated for 125V-AC. This rating is mainly for the fact that the connections should not be too close. There's some rules for that. In Netherlands (230V-50Hz) the minimum distance has to be 5mm (about 0,2") This is called "creep distance" Peronally, I'd choose a double-pole switch and make sure to use a 3 lead-connection. That is with protective earth connection. BR/ Guus
  11. It may also be dirt, bad solder joints or solder "Whiskers". Clean it all and resolder as much as you can.
  12. For the Mouse, have a look at the traces from the connector into the keyboard. That's where I would expect damage / bad contacts. And for the Tos-Roms. It should be fairly easy to get another Tos for the machine. Have a (Google) look for Atari TT: Storm, Thunder and Lightning. These are names for boards that give the TT a USB interface, a CF interface and more TT-Fastram. It needs a patched Tos and the Roms are included. BR/ Guus
  13. Hello, Thanks for the presentation and the hard work behind it. And of course I'm curiuos about the price. Please keep up the good work :-) BR/ Guus
  14. For 1.44 MB to work, there's also a Gal that needs to be the right revision. If not, it won't work either. If I'm not mistaken, the one you need is in this .zip However I'm not sure which one to get. And I don't have source code. I did replace that one in my computer as well and also placed the FPU and Gal with that. BR/ Guus GAL.zip
  15. If the capacitors are removed and the resistors and possible coils are bridged, the I/O will be faster. However, the computer will not pass the EMC test. That may cause problems in some case. It may cause RF interference. The 68B21 has some higher drive capabilities. That can also cause more RF. Not always a big deal really. BR/ Guus
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