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redman

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Posts posted by redman

  1. Hello,

     

    I've been playing with BASIC replacement roms for quite a few years. Star Raiders and River Raid are diagnostic carts that have been fixed for XL machines. They are included in the .zip file that I attached that has 128 8K roms. I test the roms with Altirra and all these work with the emulator but Twin Pack Sinker + Teaser doesn't work in the BASIC slot?? Included is a link to an old discussion about BASIC replacements.

     

    http://atariage.com/forums/topic/110394-basic-rom-replacement-eproms/?hl=redman&do=findComment&comment=1338759

     

    8kroms.zip

     

    Redman

    • Like 5
  2. Always nice when the actual creator shows up. I'm even more impressed with the work now that you've shared these extra details and photos. Was the original Kaypro green monitor kaput, or did you just prefer the amber?

    The Kaypro monitor was not compatible with composite video.
  3. Hello,

    I'm looking for a good glue to piece together 2 cut up cartridges to make a wider cart on top. These are the old brown carts like Basic Ver A. I tried Duco plastic model cement and it didn't even stick. Has anyone found a good glue for this?

     

    redman

  4. I've been using Norton programs for many years with excellent results. My ISP is Comcast and they supply Norton Security Suite for free. When I compile programs written in Visual Basic 6 (.exe), Norton deletes them. Apparently when Norton sees that only a few people have a program, they assume that it's a virus. I googled the problem and found a solution. For NSS, go to Settings, Firewall, Program Control, then add the program name to the list. Now Norton should ignore finding it on your computer. Works good for me. Good luck.

    And I am using WinXP on a laptop.

     

    redman

  5. I got a cable on eBay for $6.26 - free shipping.

    I used a little project box that was laying around so I could mount a switch for changing handshaking options

     

    cable info:

    on eBay search on - "6P FTDI FT232RL USB to Serial adapter module USB TO TTL RS232 Cable F/Arduino 5v"

     

    It has these connections:

    Red wire: 5V

    Black wire: GND

    White wire: RXD

    Green wire: TXD

    Yellow wire: RTS

    Blue wire: CTS

    FTDI based USB to TTL Serial Cable are designed using the the standard FT232RL chipset.

     

    To connect to Atari:

    Pin on cable goes to Pin on Atari

    ------------ ------------

    GND 4 or 6

    RXD 5

    TXD 3

    CTS 7

     

    Looking ahead, I switched command 7 between CTS and RTS thinking that maybe in the

    future some software will use RTS plus I have a lot of switches sitting around doing

    nothing:) Currently, RespeQt can use CTS but not RTS.

    Connect to a SPDT switch like this:

    RTS---+

    +------ Atari command pin 7

    CTS---+

    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

     

    The SIO connector pin-out looking at the pins on the computer:

     

    1 1

    2 4 6 8 0 2

    -----------

    /o o o o o o\

    /o o o o o o o\

    -----------------

    1 3 5 7 9 1 1

    1 3

     

    1 clock in (to computer)

    2 clock out

    3 data in

    4 GND

    5 data out

    6 GND

    7 command (active low)

    8 cassette motor control

    9 proceed (active low)

    10 +5V/ready

    11 audio in

    12 +12V (400/800)

    13 interrupt (active low)

     

     

     

     

    Please disregard all the comments and circuitry related to the switching between CTS and RTS. I was wrong about RTS being useful for handshaking. Another senior moment!

  6. I got a cable on eBay for $6.26 - free shipping.
    I used a little project box that was laying around so I could mount a switch for changing handshaking options

    cable info:
    on eBay search on - "6P FTDI FT232RL USB to Serial adapter module USB TO TTL RS232 Cable F/Arduino 5v"

    It has these connections:
    Red wire: 5V
    Black wire: GND
    White wire: RXD
    Green wire: TXD
    Yellow wire: RTS
    Blue wire: CTS
    FTDI based USB to TTL Serial Cable are designed using the the standard FT232RL chipset.

    To connect to Atari:
    Pin on cable goes to Pin on Atari
    ------------ ------------
    GND 4 or 6
    RXD 5
    TXD 3
    CTS 7

    Looking ahead, I switched command 7 between CTS and RTS thinking that maybe in the
    future some software will use RTS plus I have a lot of switches sitting around doing
    nothing:) Currently, RespeQt can use CTS but not RTS.

    Connect to a SPDT switch like this:

    RTS---+

    +------ Atari command pin 7

    CTS---+
    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    The SIO connector pin-out looking at the pins on the computer:

    1 1
    2 4 6 8 0 2
    -----------
    /o o o o o o\
    /o o o o o o o\
    -----------------
    1 3 5 7 9 1 1
    1 3

    1 clock in (to computer)
    2 clock out
    3 data in
    4 GND
    5 data out
    6 GND
    7 command (active low)
    8 cassette motor control
    9 proceed (active low)
    10 +5V/ready
    11 audio in
    12 +12V (400/800)
    13 interrupt (active low)

    post-14426-0-83005900-1506196484_thumb.jpg

    post-14426-0-34218400-1506196500.jpg

    • Like 4
  7.  

    Awesome Redman - thank you!

     

    Does the drive cabling have a twist / standard setup like a PC with two floppies then?

     

    No. The cable is straight.

     

    First to avoid confusion, let's talk about floppy (PC type) drives and drive select

    numbers (DS). The drive select number is set by putting a jumper on 2 pins at the

    rear of the drive. Some drives are numbered DS1-DS4 while others are numbered D0-D3.

    Some only have 2 DS's. 1.44meg drives usually don't have any jumpers while some of

    them have 1 jumper. 720K drives usually have 4 DS's. So when I refer to the first

    drive, it may be jumpered D0 or D1 and the second may be D1 or D2 based on it's numbering

    system.

     

    IBM set all their drives to be the second drive. Then they put 2 connectors on

    the floppy cable with the cable twisted between them. The twisting changed the

    location of certain wires so the floppy controller saw the drive at the end of the cable

    (past the twist) as the first drive. The drive in the middle of the cable was seen as

    the second drive. Now when you put a new drive in your PC, you didn't have to deal with

    drive jumpers. The location on the cable determined whether it was Drive A or Drive B.

    A lot easier than playing with tiny jumpers that get lost very easy.

  8. I have 2 Percom AT88-S1PD drives. They both came with one 180K single sided drive. One now has 2 3.5" 720K drives

    and the other is empty. I took pictures so you can see what they are like. Once I got the 720K drives to fully format, I put

    a label on top of the drive because I surely would have forgotten how to do it again:) You can see from the screen shot,

    using MyDos 4.53 enables you to have 2867 free sectors after formatting.

    So yes, you can get 720K of usable space. I used 2 standard 720K DD drives from IBM pc's. They are a good choice

    because they have drive select jumpers. You can probably use a 1.44 drive, but their drive selects are set to 1. The first

    drive in a multi-drive setup has to be set to 0. Some 1.44 drives have selects and some can be modified to change drive

    numbers. To clarify this, if you use one 1.44 drive, it will show up as drive B not A. You also have to use 720K DD floppies,

    not 1.44's. There's a lot of discussion about 720 & 1.44 drive swapping out there.
    I don't know anything about playing with FAT12 on an Atari. Hope this helps.

    I just noticed that the drive on the left is wrongly marked 1/3. That was from a different project.

    redman

     

    post-14426-0-18805600-1502897184_thumb.jpg

    post-14426-0-40874000-1502897194_thumb.jpg

    post-14426-0-52911600-1502897202_thumb.jpg

    post-14426-0-55761100-1502897213_thumb.jpg

    post-14426-0-17272700-1502897224_thumb.jpg

    post-14426-0-95429900-1502897233_thumb.jpg

    • Like 5
  9. Hello,

     

    I just tested an 800XL with chroma output and one without chroma using a digital voltmeter. I measured the voltage between pin 5 of the video output connector and ground. I used a small wire to connect to pin 5 with the positive probe and I touched the negative probe to the outside of the tv output connector. The one without chroma measured .01 volts - probably should be 0 because nothing is connected to it. The one with the chroma mod measured 2.37 volts.

  10. So, I finally got my Atari hooked up to my computer via SIO. I don't have any serial ports, so the old SIO2PC was out. I ended up using USB (virtual COM port) by wiring up an inexpensive breakout board. The cost for the parts was about $20 + shipping and I'm quite happy with the result.

     

    For anyone interested, I've documented the process in a kind of 'how-to' here:

     

    http://www.stephens-home.com/sio2usb/

     

    Cheers

    Hello,

    I know there are a lot of sio2pc circuits floating around, but does anyone have a copy of what was at this link? TIA.

    redman

  11. Hello,

    I'm redoing an old project that replaces the Basic rom in an 800XL with a 27c801 eprom. It's very hard to find 128 8K cart images that work. I've run into a few problems.

    Carts that don't work that I would love to have fixed versions of:

    known diagnostic carts - Asteroids and Basketball
    Keystone Kapers, Twin Pack - Sinker+Teaser not sure why they don't work
    K-Razy Kritters, K-Star Patrol, Pool400, Monster Maze and Gorf - they need osb

     

    If you know of fixed versions please let know.
    Thanks a lot.

    Redman

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