Ace_1

That, to me, sounds like a MASSIVE load of BS. Start and Select not working at all on Player 2's controller just doesn't sound right whatsoever. Someone tell me if swapping out the Player 2 controller on a Famicom for one with Start and Select buttons would mean those buttons don't work at all. As for the audio hardware being different, that's complete BS. Both the Famicom and NES share the exact same audio hardware, however, the Super 8 doesn't perfectly reproduce the audio out of the 2A03. It's like modern NOACs with correct duty cycles: some of the square waves are off and the DPCM is both too quiet and COMPLETELY screwed up. DPCM does work, though. I don't know where the idea that the Super 8 doesn't have DPCM came from, but that's BS.

Aside from my four original-model PlayStations (all different revisions: SCPH-1001, SCPH-5501, SCPH-7501, SCPH-101 PSone) and an SCPH-39001 PlayStation 2 I gave a friend, I've never had Sony systems give me problems. The first PlayStation is the most unreliable of my old CD-ROM based consoles. Every single one of the consoles I mentioned has varying problems with the laser. The SCPH-5501 has a modchip in it and while it's okay with original discs (with the occasional skipping), if I put a burnt game in the console, there's a high risk the game will lock up unless I turn the console upside-down. The SCPH-7501 skips all kinds and the PSone only starts to skip when the console has been on for 15 minutes (playing a burnt game, I haven't checked original discs yet). The SCPH-1001, though, is a nightmare. I used to use a swap trick to get burnt games running on that console using a GoldFinger cartridge, but this thing has an EXTREMELY hard time reading burnt games. That manual bias adjustment is a pain; either burnt games work or original discs work. I could never get the two working, and personally, I prefer to use the SCPH-1001 model. As it is right now, the system does have some skipping in the opening FMV of V-Rally 2, but that happens on every PlayStation I've put the disc in (but it doesn't skip on a PlayStation 2). My big problem with the PlayStation is how much a finicky b****** it is with games using CD-XA format. Those kinds of games seem to be the most highly prone to skipping, and a lot of PlayStation games I play use this format. It drives me nuts, especially since Gradius II in Gradius Deluxe Pack will not run correctly on a PlayStation 2 (the first two stages play at half speed). At this rate, I feel like I'd be better off ripping all my PlayStation discs into custom EBOOTs for the PSP and use my PSP-3000 for PlayStation games instead of an actual PlayStation (minus games with analog controls as it seems the PSP's PlayStation emulator doesn't support analog controls). As for the PlayStation 2, that one blew two fuses, one which I believe was on the 5V rail, and the other which provided rumble for the controllers. It didn't take much to get it back up and running again, quite unlike the 4 PlayStations that have given me hell.

No. Just... no. The Genesis' video hardware lacks the video mode required by SG-1000 games, so while you can hear them and control them, you won't be able to see anything. I've tried using an SG-1000 game I converted for use on a modified v1.3 Master System and that's exactly what I got: sound, controls, but no video. FM sound is for Master System games with support for the Yamaha YM2413 FM Synthesis chip. Personally, I wouldn't even bother with an FPGA-simulated or software-emulated YM2413 as not a single software emulator can faithfully reproduce the YM2413 (they're all off). Even a counterfeit YM2413 is more faithful to the original Yamaha chip than that. I say you're better off getting a YM2413 (counterfeit or legit, though the counterfeit ones have some differences in the tuning of certain instruments and have VERY noisy audio output, however, there is one particular YM2413 clone, the UM3567, which is supposed to be a 1:1 replica of the YM2413, but it's a bigger chip and the audio appears to be considerably louder than the real YM2413) and integrating it within a Master System converter or your Mega EverDrive (the latter would most likely be near-impossible due to space issues as you not only need the YM2413, but also several other chips in order for the YM2413 to work).

There's better than this. It's the same concept, only made in 1995 and works a whole lot better than the RetroPort Adapter: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BO5ICApvVNY The Super 8 Adapter. It is more expensive than the RetroPort Adapter, but it's more compatible, does not require its own AV cable (but you do lose the ability to output S-Video and RGB from your Super NES if you were to keep this on your Super NES at all times - probably a better idea to use this on a Super NES Mini as it doesn't output S-Video and RGB without doing some mods to the system) and passes the audio out of Famicom games with sound chips in them. There's a seller on eBay selling a few of these for $49US plus shipping: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/170886716472?_trksid=p5197.c0.m619 For what it's worth, the RetroPort Adapter is decent, but is underwhelming considering something made in the mid '90s when Famiclones were still illegal outperforms something recently made (and it uses a glop-top NOAC just like every modern Famiclone). Seems to me like the only way we'll get good Famiclones is if someone puts the time and effort to reverse-engineer the NES from scratch and create a brand new NOAC. From what I've seen, Famiclone manufacturers rely on existing NOAC designs for their Famiclones, and they all have problems ranging from audio and video inaccuracies caused by improper reverse-engineering or compatibility problems caused by signals being hooked up in the NOAC itself rather than to the respective pins on the cartridge slot.

Clones seem to have a tendency to trigger anti-piracy messages in certain games. I don't quite know why this happens, though. The Genesis slot really has a death grip on it, and it seems to be common to most of the modern GOAC-based clones. I have two different revisions of the FC3 Plus and have used the RetroN3 Version 1 and Version 2, and all 4 consoles have death grips on their Genesis slots. Strange that the Genesis side has issues. The only game I've had problems with is Virtua Racing, which simply will not load, and even when you try to make it work by faking a missing signal on the cartridge slot, it still doesn't work! A user on Sega-16 got a RetroN3 Version 2 soon after it was discovered, and he had to send it back due to the Genesis side working with very few of his games while his RetroN3 Version 1 worked with everything no problem. Do not waste your time with the PowerPak on the RetroN3, it will not work. I don't know what the RetroN3 Version 1 does, but on the RetroN3 Version 2, it seems to be unable to read any data off the Compact Flash card. It gives an error saying the POWERPAK directory was not found every time. By the way, has Hyperkin fixed the INSANELY DISTORTED Super NES audio? When I tried the RetroN3 Version 2, I got this mess: The RetroN3 Version 1 was pretty good when it came to audio out of the Super NES side (aside from low volume and inferior Stereo separation to original hardware), but the RetroN3 Version 2 is a MASSIVELY distorted mess. Honestly, I think the RetroN3 in general is a piece of crap. The RetroN3 Version 1 is decent, but the RetroN3 Version 2 is an absolute mess, and it looks like in the long-run, you will ALWAYS have one problem or another with the RetroN3. The RetroN3 Version 1 I tested would short out if I kept a Super NES controller plugged into Player 1's port while playing Super NES games, and the RetroN3 Version 2 used to show graphical glitches in Super NES games when I first tested it, which have since stopped, but now, it stopped recognizing Super NES controllers. In short: avoid at all costs. I would much rather have an FC3 Plus, and that's why I have two of them, Version 1 and Version 2. The Version 1 is only good for Super NES games (the NES side is garbage and the Genesis side has compatibility issues with Virtua Racing and Master System converters on top of VERY bad video), but the Version 2 is a lot better (the NES side is still garbage, but the Genesis hardware is completely different and works with nearly everything I've thrown at it with the exception of R-Type for the Master System which simply displays as rolling graphical garbage). If only it had 6 controller ports like the RetroN3 does... that plus the fact the NOAC is one of the worst ones to be used on a modern Famiclone (reversed duty cycles, incorrect colors, lots of compatibility issues, incorrect wiring of the cartridge slot... yeesh) and all audio is Mono (yes, even on the Genesis and Super NES sides... WTF?) really hurts the FC3 Plus.

Thanks for giving me another reason to loathe AtGames even more. This company needs to be shut down.

User TmEE on NESDev posted a circuit he built for the Top-Loader NES that makes the vertical lines practically invisible much like on a Front-Loader NES. This is his circuit: http://nesdev.parodi...p?p=73759#73759 I made a few tweaks to his circuit as I was getting very dull colors on my TV. I forgot what resistor I used between Base and Collector (it's definitely more than 4.7Kohms), but I used a 91ohm resistor at the output and a 470uF capacitor between Collector and Ground (it's a good idea to have this cap there). But I can assure you that adding a capacitor between pin 22 of the 2C02 and Ground really helps a lot with the vertical lines. My Sharp Twin Famicom AN-500B had some VERY nasty vertical lines in the video output, and as soon as I added a 470uF capacitor between pin 22 of the 2C02 and Ground, the lines are barely visible. Another thing I suggest to do if your Top-Loader NES has very quiet audio after the A/V mod (mine had VERY low audio when I first A/V-modded it) is to build an audio amp using an LM358 dual op-amp, a few resistors and a 100pF to 220pF ceramic capacitor depending on how much low-pass filtering you want (I used a 100pF cap on my Top-Loader NES and it sounds no different than my Twin Famicom with its excessive low-pass filter cap removed and my AV Famicom). The cap is a must because if you don't use it, you'll get a lot of video noise in the audio signal. At the same time, wire up pin 51 of the cartridge slot to where the audio out of the 2A03 gets mixed with a 47Kohm resistor so you can get expansion audio out of whatever game has expansion audio (this only gives good volume balance on the PowerPak, though, and even then, the audio out of the PowerPak still seems a bit too quiet. With a 47Kohm resistor, at least with Akumajou Densetsu, expansion audio is WAY too loud, so add a 47Kohm resistor in series with a 1Kohm resistor in your Famicom to NES converter between pin 46 of the Famicom end and pins 51 and 54 of the NES end so you can use the converter on both a Front-Loader and Top-Loader NES. Using 95Kohms worth of resistors makes the volume balance between expansion audio and the 2A03 perfect when using the original cartridges).

You might want to consider getting an A/V mod done if you get a Top-Loader NES or at least add a capacitor and redirect a signal on the motherboard to clean up the RF a bit. The video out of the Top-Loader NES is FILLED with vertical lines and it really makes the video look horrible.

In that case, it's a bit understandable, but personally, I would always deny a request to AtGames to manufacture hardware unless they stop making half-a**ed systems or move from software emulation to reverse-engineered hardware like unlicensed Famiclones and Geniclones. Seriously, their Geniclones are about the worst clones I've ever seen, even worse than Famiclones using garbage NOACs with the typical reversed duty cycles and missing signals causing the same issues time and time again. AtGames has improved the compatibility with their Genesis emulator, but the sound is still horrible (some games even manage to play music at the wrong speed!), the video looks rather lousy and a lot of games have graphical errors. It seems that way. It's how I see everyone spell out "Geniclone," probably due to how Famiclone has an "i" before "clone." I hate pronouncing acronyms as a word because they usually grate my ears, so I pronounce NOAC letter by letter: N O A C. Typically, that's how I hear NOAC pronounced. Same goes for GOAC; I pronounce that G O A C. Whoops! Gotta correct that.

I'll be perfectly honest, if AtGames would have approached me to do something, I would have denied their request on the spot. The only decent thing I've seen them put out is the Flashback 3; all their licensed Geniclones are rehashed piles of garbage that barely work correctly. Huh... I always thought the idea behind the Flashback was a 7800-based system. When I read you wanted to use a 2600-on-a-chip, I couldn't help but ask myself, "Wasn't the Flashback supposed to be a 7800-based system right from the start?" Guess not. Well at least, I'm grateful for that. I will say, when I got my Flashback (which was actually AFTER the Flashback 2, some old stock a local EB Games had left over), I knew it was an NOAC and didn't expect perfect accuracy, but hey, it's still fun, and if I want to experience the games on the Flashback the way they were originally, I've got some 2600s and a 7800 laying around. With the Flashback, you just have to play the games and completely disregard accuracy (that's what I do when I use my Flashback, but I still expect better from software emulation like what's on the Flashback 3).

I'm aware of this, but why AtGames? Their Titan ARM-based Genesis emulators they have on their lineup of licensed Geniclones are a disastrous mess! Now, granted, their 2600 emulator is a lot better than that, but I wouldn't put my trust in a company who puts out a ton of rehashed garbage time and time again like AtGames has done. I personally consider the Flashback 2+ pointless due to its game selection compared to the Flashback 2. I would much rather have a Flashback 2 than a Flashback 2+. Duh, I know that. Though they should really switch to system-on-a-chip designs rather than this software-emulated crap. Wouldn't a 7800-on-a-chip design be a better idea for the Flashback considering it's made to resemble a miniature 7800? Still, the porting resulted in pretty lousy accuracy, much worse than what AtGames has done on the Flashback 3. I got my Flashback 2 when they were still in production off a friend who was no longer using his (it's got a revision B motherboard, if I remember correctly). It's legit, all right.

Picked this up last week while on vacation in the US to complete the Flashback lineup (well, almost). I already had the Flashback and Flashback 2 (not the Flashback 2+, which I honestly think is pointless), so I wanted to get the latest Flashback and see how it is. I was already reluctant to get a Flashback 3 because of the fact it was manufactured by AtGames. I absolutely HATE this company's products (their Geniclones SUCK!!!), but the Flashback 3 is probably one of their better offerings. Still, I did notice some imperfections and oddities with this thing: -Sound pitch is too high. -Video seems blurrier and more saturated than a real 2600 or Flashback 2. -The audio stutters (WTF, really?). -The emulator on the Flashback 3 appears to be frameskipping! The games seem to run at half the framerate as there's no flicker where there should be flicker and the motion in some games doesn't seem as quick and smooth as on a real 2600 or Flashback 2. -Some games appear to leave trailing images behind for a bit such as Missile Command, where the cursor appears to leave a trailing image when it moves (I can assure you this is not my TV as I haven't seen this on a real 2600 or Flashback 2). -The controllers are crap. Their sticks are WAY too loose and are quite unresponsive due to the much longer throw compared to real Atari controllers. I have to push on the stick REALLY hard in order to make diagonal movements, which gets real irritating real fast. -The A/V cable is ridiculously short. Seems to be a common trend with AtGames' products; if anything they supply has a cable, it's always ridiculously short, which is a problem for me due to the placement of my consoles in relation to my switchboxes. I will still say AtGames did a much better job than Atari did with the first Flashback (guess that was to be expected as using completely different hardware than what was originally on a certain console would result in differences far greater than what you can get via software emulation). It's got its fair share of weird things (audio stuttering... I never thought I'd see that coming from a 2600 emulator), but the games are recognizable at least.

Right here: http://www.sega-16.c...ull=1#post95953 The image is an attachment, so you'll have to make an account on Sega-16 to see the image. Oh hell yes, they are. If it has an AtGames logo on it, it will suck no matter what because they run on filthy software emulation. Those clones belong in a landfill. Newsflash: Geniclones are better than software emulation with the right circuitry. Not a single emulator can get the Genesis' audio correct whereas GOAC-based Geniclones do, however, the manufacturers of such Geniclones always seem to make crappy audio amps, causing some issues ranging from bad volume balance to distorted low-frequency FM Synthesis. I would still much rather use cloned hardware. It may not be perfect, but I don't expect perfection when playing games on a portable. Besides, especially when it comes to audio, even if it's inaccurate, I wouldn't care as when I play games on a portable, the audio is always off because I take my portables where there's a lot of ambient noise, so I can't hear a thing from the system. And no, I will not use headphones, not to mention, I have the original hardware, so if I want to play my games with perfect audio, video and controls, I'll use them, but on the go, a clone with good video, controls and compatibility is good enough for me.

I would honestly NEVER buy a portable Geniclone. All the portable Geniclones are made by AtGames and run on absolutely FILTHY software emulation. Games have graphical errors, the audio is MURDERED and it may be possible that some games have screen resolution issues. I've personally seen resolution issues on the home console versions of AtGames' hardware, but I'm not sure if the portables have the same problem. Either way, I wouldn't buy a portable Geniclone until a good one with a GOAC that's not the TCT-6705 or TCT-6801 (they're the two worst GOACs I've come across) shows up at some point. As for a portable NES and Super NES clone, you have a few options. I would personally get one of the following: -FC16 Go Version 2.1 and FC Mobile II -RetroDuo Portable I don't know how the compatibility compares between the FC Mobile II and RetroDuo Portable's RetroPort cartridge, but I do believe the FC Mobile II does work with Castlevania III which the RetroDuo Portable is incapable of playing without modifying the RetroPort. Still, if Castlevania III works on a Famiclone, you can also expect other problem games to work like Rad Racer II and After Burner (though some clones like the RetroN3 Version 2 still have severe graphical errors with this game despite full compatibility with Castlevania III and Rad Racer II). Actually, come to think of it, if I were to game on the go exclusively on cloned hardware, I'd have the following: -FC Mobile II -RetroDuo Portable with RetroGen Adapter Of all the portable Super NES clones, only the RetroDuo Portable is able to pass the video from the RetroGen Adapter. With this combination, you can play a good bit of games on the go. The only games I can think of which may give you problems are Super NES games with the SA-1 co-processor, and don't expect the RetroGen Adapter to work with Virtua Racing because it does not, and there's no way around this (yet). This combination will allow you to play the maximum number of NES, Super NES, Genesis and even Master System games on the go using cloned hardware (although Master System games will tower out of the console or look absolutely ridiculous depending on what Master System converter you have). My personal preference for NES, Super NES and Genesis (Master System too) gaming on the go would be the following: -Sega Nomad with Master System compatibility fix (Sega didn't wire up the pin required to switch the video mode in the Genesis when playing Master System games on the Nomad) -FC16 Go with standalone RetroPort Adapter (I may do this so I can also play both Super NES and NES games with wireless controllers) or RetroDuo Portable with FC Mobile II Software emulation is not an option for me, so I won't even consider it.

Therein lies the problem. The term "emulation" always seems to make people think "software emulation" because it's so common. A lot of people say X clone emulates Y functionality a certain way, which for a lot of people, makes them think of software emulation and not reverse-engineered hardware. I'm also certain most people who aren't familiar with clone hardware automatically assume it's software emulation judging by the videos I see people post on different Famiclones and Geniclones (with the exception of AtGames' FireCore-based Geniclones which run on absolutely dreadful software emulation). I have a set list of terms I use depending on what is used to mimic a certain piece of hardware: -Reverse-engineered hardware (discrete components or system-on-a-chip designs): reverse-engineered hardware (I think that's pretty self-explanatory) -Software emulation: emulation -FPGA: FPGA-simulated I do this to prevent any incorrect assumptions. A black Famiclone with top-loading NES and Famicom cartridges made by Yobo? Are you sure you're not confusing something else with the FC Twin? That one is a 2-in-1 NES/Super NES combo clone. As for a black Famiclone with both NES and Famicom slots... are you perhaps thinking of this one: http://ultimateconso...pgamevg9000.htm

I tried gaming on some LCDs, and unless the console in question supports Component video or HDMI at 480p or higher, the picture usually looks terrible. I've tried a 24-inch Samsung SyncMaster 244T computer monitor (this has inputs for Composite, S-Video, Component, VGA and DVI/HDMI up to 1080p), a 32-inch Toshiba LCD TV and a 50-inch Sony Bravia, and about the only display where 480i or 240p sources looked decent was on the Bravia. NES and Super NES games on original hardware and on Famiclones via Composite looked quite good, but quickly flickering graphics looked translucent with interlacing artifacts (horizontal lines like you typically get with capture devices) and I'd get some minor instances of garbage on the screen. My SyncMaster 244T makes the video look absolutely disgusting. It's very blurry, there's a good bit of smearing (particularly bad on Sega hardware) and MASSIVE fringing (rainbow-colored artifacts). It also has a bit of lag on the Composite and S-Video inputs. It's short, but noticeable. The worst LCD I've used is the 32-inch Toshiba TV. When things aren't moving, it's pretty blurry, but otherwise decent, HOWEVER, when things start to move, it's like the TV is applying a sort of "smoothing" effect which makes the edges of graphics look a lot smoother than they would normally be, but it looks like those graphical filters emulators use which look like crap. It does support 240p Component video, but the smoothing effect kills the otherwise very good picture quality (still not as good as a CRT with Component inputs - using Component video on a CRT TV with Component inputs will look just as good as a TV with RGB inputs). This is why I keep a 27-inch Electrohome 27E510 CRT TV and a Samsung SyncMaster 244T side by side for my gaming needs. The 27E510 is used for pre-6th generation consoles (with the exception of the GameCube and slim PlayStation 2. I mainly use the GameCube to play GameBoy games on my TV and I use my slim PlayStation 2 to play PlayStation games through Component until I get an RGB cable for my SCPH-1001 PlayStation and SCPH-101 PSone. As my SyncMaster 244T hates 240p Component and shifts the image so far up to the point where 1/3 of the screen is cut off, I have to play PlayStation games via Component on my CRT), usually via a custom RGB to Component box I built for maximum picture quality (S-Video and Composite are used for consoles which either don't output RGB or Component at all or don't have any RGB or Component mods on them yet), while everything else (fat PlayStation 2, Xbox, Wii, Xbox 360, PlayStation 3) is used via Component or HDMI through an adapter on my SyncMaster 244T (HDMI in 1080p looks GORGEOUS on the SyncMaster 244T).

While I do say N-E-S, I don't say S-N-E-S, but rather Super N-E-S. I rarely pronounce acronyms as a word and just spell it out. It all depends on how it sounds because, call me whatever you want, I refuse to say things that sound horrible to my ears (acronyms especially). Just as another example: (E)EPROM. I do say ROM, but if anything is attached to ROM, I spell it out - (E)-E-P-ROM. Don't ask why, I just do this.

Those chips are socketed, all right(and it looks like the RAM at location U1 is socketed, too). Now get yourself a real Ricoh 2A03 and 2C02 and turn that thing into a proper Famicom with built-in turbo controllers.

Not quite. Don't forget the European Super NES, which has a physical lockout on North American cartridges, but an electronic lockout as well due to the shape of the cartridges being the same as Super Famicom cartridges. European Super NES cartridges and consoles use a different lockout chip than any North American Super NES or Super Famicom cartridge(both the North American Super NES and the Super Famicom share the exact same lockout chip). This prevents all NTSC games from working in a European Super NES unless you A) disable the lockout chip(in turn, causing games with the SA-1 co-processor which can detect the presence of a lockout chip not to work), B) replace the PAL lockout chip with an NTSC lockout chip or C) rig up both an NTSC and a PAL lockout chip and activate whichever one is needed. You would also need to widen the cartridge slot so North American Super NES games can fit. The difference in lockout chips also prevents European Super NES games from running on any NTSC Super NES. You would need to once again either disable the existing NTSC lockout chip, wire up both the NTSC and PAL lockout chips(I'm not even sure this would work) or replace the lockout chip entirely, and if you have a North American Super NES, break the tabs in the cartridge slot.

Thunder Force II for the Sharp X68000. That game is BRUTAL unlike its Genesis counterpart, Thunder Force II MD, but the insanely high difficulty is what keeps bringing me back to the Sharp X68000 original. It's so damn difficult I am determined to beat the damn game on Normal difficulty with 3 stock, the default settings.

Get both. After Burner Complete for the 32X is a damn good port, but After Burner Climax not only looks beautiful, but is even faster and more frantic than After Burner II. Speaking of ports, may I suggest the Sega Saturn port of After Burner II? It's a direct port which is about the same as having the Sega X-Board arcade original. After Burner Complete is slightly downgraded as the game isn't as smooth as the Saturn port or the Sega X-Board original as After Burner Complete runs at 30FPS rather than 60FPS and has some instances of slowdown. Not to mention, After Burner Complete has no analog controls whereas you can After Burner II with a flight stick or any other analog controller on the Sega Saturn. As an After Burner fan, I'd just buy any After Burner port I come across which is worth something, and I say go for both the 32X and Saturn ports. They're both good. And get After Burner Climax, you won't be disappointed.

I personally think all AtGames Geniclones are completely piles of crap. There are better Geniclones than these software-emulation based abominations. Only problem is that those Geniclones which are based off a proper GOAC design and not some shoddy software emulation are all home consoles, not portables. I'll just stick to my big, bulky, battery-hungry Nomad for my Genesis fix on the go. At least I won't have to deal with ear-shattering audio(try playing a Thunder Force game on any AtGames clone. It sounds HORRIBLE).

Those ones have NOACs with reversed sound channel duties. They sound completely wrong, but those NOACs have proper DPCM, so the screwy DPCM of NOACs with proper sound channel duties is not applicable to those. Both of my FC Twins have Yobo's name on them, so both use the same NOAC.

Unlike NOACs, though, Geniclones sound bad only because their audio amps are complete trash. The only Geniclone I've come across which sounds almost spot-on is the FC3 Plus. It's the only clone I've personally tested with proper volume balance with FM Synthesis and PSG and unlike other clones, the sound is not overly muffled or distorted. If you REALLY want to hear ear rape, listen to an AtGames Geniclone. Worst pieces of trash you can get. They're not even proper Geniclones as they run on a Titan ARM core with a VERY shoddy Genesis emulator on it. Other clones are GOACs, but the AtGames ones run on very bad software emulation. Dude, I'm serious. Both of my FC Twins(one of which no longer works), my RES and my RetroDuo all have square waves with proper sound channel duties, and on all 3, the DPCM is too quiet and is sometimes completely mangled. I'll record some audio samples from Gradius II, which has speech that sounds really weird on the FC Twin, RES and RetroDuo. Even Super C's sampled instruments sound wrong. And even Mike Tyson's Punch-Out's DPCM is a bit weird. It's not affected as badly as Gradius II and Super C, though. Those sound really wrong, and in Gradius II in particular, the DPCM is VERY hard to hear. And I have proof of this; I'll get some audio samples for you. Even Rad Racer's engine sound is off compared to a real NES. Here's Part 4 of my RetroDuo vs. Original Hardware series of videos which shows Rad Racer played on both the RetroDuo and a Front-Loader NES(it's the second game - starts at position 2:08 with the Front-Loader NES shown first): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bv4yMjv8IMU Another thing: how old is your FC Twin? Newer models have very loud NES audio that's a bit distorted, but my first FC Twin had perfect, albeit a bit quiet, NES audio(well, aside from the audio issues I mentioned with weird square waves and DPCM).

Famiclones are not the way to go when it comes to playing NES games. Not a single Famiclone will work right as the sound channel duties are reversed in the APU causing sound pitch issues(or in other instances, the sound channel duties are correct, but some square waves are still incorrect and the DPCM is COMPLETELY screwed up and barely audible), the color palette in the cloned 2C02 is different from the real one, the clone might not accept NES controllers without mods or controller converters(this is the case with the FC Twin, Gen-X, Tomee Dual Action, Tomee C2, RetroDuo, GN Twin, FC3 Plus and FC Mobile II. There may be others I haven't mentioned with this same issue), the clone might have problems with original controllers(RetroN3 - this thing has problems with the Zapper and is completely incompatible with the NES Advantage and NES Max), simply put: there's a HUGE list of problems with Famiclones. I don't get how the NES is such an old console, yet clone console manufacturers STILL can't clone it right when they can clone a Genesis and Super NES to near-perfection. Just clean the crap out of your cartridges and if you have a Front-Loader NES, disable the lockout chip and tighten the cartridge slot. As for dead NES carts, I've only come across 2 in my lifetime. Oddly enough, though, I've ONLY come across dead NES carts. I haven't come across dead carts for any other cartridge-based system I own(2600, Odyssey 2, Intellivision, Colecovision, 5200, 7800, Master System, Genesis, TurboGrafx 16, Super NES, Nintendo 64, GameBoy, GameBoy Color, GameBoy Advance).