Ace_1
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Posts posted by Ace_1
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I second to that, although I was unable to fix several systems due to internal problems. They are: 2 front-loader NESes(1 smoked from the power/video box inside the system when I plugged in the power supply, and one has a damaged PPU or something, because replacing pin connectors did not help to fix garbled and discolored images), my other 2 SNESes(they seem to both have a fatal failure somewhere relating to the PPU, not to mention 1 of those 2 has rust on some of the contacts of PPU 1. If I can find out what those pins do(I have some schematics), I think applying some new solder might bring it back to life), a mini PlayStation(this one seems to have a broken IC of some sort, because it powers on, but I get no A/V signal and the CD drive does nothing). I also have a Model 1 Genesis that is "supposedly" broken(the plastic over the power switch was not touching it, so you couldn't turn off the system). Just goes to show how many systems CAN actually be fixable, even though I failed at the ones I've mentioned.
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It's the same trace, not the 2 traces that lead to the black carbon spot where the Start button hits. And, like I just edited in my previous post, the jump worked. I can press it and the bridge is complete(looks like the bridge was stopped when it hit that particular spot.)
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It's a deeper problem. I think the trace was scraped off at that place, because I see something on the board that looks like gold or copper on the board with a green space in between. I'll try to jump it, see if it helps.
UPDATE: Yup, that was it. The button now works
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Will do. And, yeah, the wire's fine. The D-Pad, Select, L, R, A, B, X and Y buttons work properly.
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I got a used SNES controller today(the official one, not one of the reproductions you see floating around), but found out that the Start button is malfunctioning. Now, I took it apart, and saw white mixed with I don't know what on a trace that runs from where the rubber button hits the board that triggers the button input. What can be done to fix this? Do I need another controller(I can always bring this one back and exchange it for another one, but that one has a piece of the black shielding over the wire broke off), or can I fix this one?
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You have got to be kidding me. Those damn things cost $80 where I am, and they don't even have it in white! No way, man. I did think, though, of stuffing in a Yobo FC Game Console with my replacement SNES and do like the FC Twin.
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Well, I got the system for $30 today(the guy didn't take my NES for $20 because it had no hookups. He took it for $10 instead), and I was lucky, because it's a Model 1, but it's still gray. At least this one's fully functional. Was I ripped off?
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My personal fav. would have to be Gradius Gaiden. I just love the good old 2D Shoot-'em-Ups.
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I own 7 consoles:
NES(3 front-loaders, 1 with box, 1 which I will sell, 1 which will(hopefully) be replaced by a top-loader)
SNES(dead, will be buying a replacement system soon)
Nintendo 64(with box)
PlayStation(mini PSone version, no box)
GameCube(with box)
PlayStation 2(slimline, with box)
Wii(with box)
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Well, I got an SNES reserved at a thrift store. Cost: $20 and the NES I want to sell(the SNES is without hookups, with hookups, 2 controllers and Super Mario World, it costs $80). Good deal?
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It costs more, and I'm trying to find the cheapest SNES I can(mini or not). Actually, tomorrow, I'll go to a local flea market that has 2 discolored SNESes to see if they're still there and if I can offer the guy 10 bucks for it, I'll take it(I'll see if I can test the system first, then, I was thinking of making a custom wooden SNES Mini casing for the system, and during the time I keep the system in its original casing, I'll replace the top by a good top I have that has just started to discolor). Thanks for the suggestion about the DigitPress boards. I won't be using that for an SNES Mini, but I'll use it for a top-loader NES(preferably with an A/V mod that removes the column lines).
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Well, see, here's the thing: EVERY, and I mean EVERY place I go to sells the NESes for $50 and buy them for $10, and the SNESes all sell for $60(we're talking about Canadian bucks here), and I have no idea whether or not the system is sold with hookups(if I can get it without hookups(I already have them), I'd give them the front-loader and pay the difference if I can buy the SNES Mini at a lower price, mind you, I've never seen one in my area until yesterday, so it's a unique opportunity to own a Nintendo collectable, and I'll use my dead systems for spare 62-pin connectors(they're the first of the big ones)).
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I'm looking to sell a front-loader NES which I've bent back the pins to the point where there's a contact without pushing down on the ZIF mechanism and has its lockout chip cut(a must, this system has an NES-CPU-11 board). Now, every place I go to is offering me $10 Canadian for the system. Is this how much I should be given for it(it's in perfect working condition)? Now, at that same place, I found 3 SNESes selling for $60 Canadian each. There was a Model with minor, but noticeable discoloration, a Model 2 and... a Mini. I'm hooked on the Mini, though, but I was wondering whether $60 is what I should pay for it. Now, I know it can't output in RGB or S-Video, but I'm not really picky about that, all I'm looking for is a system to replace the 2 dead ones I got for repair, I got sick of fixing them because nothing I ever do fixes anything. So, what do you think? $10 too little for my NES? $60 too much for the SNES(I really want the Mini because it's the first time I actually found an SNES Mini in my area)?
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Schematics, anyone? I'd like to see how the video signal in the SNES goes from the PPUs to the A/V outs and RF unit. There might be a problem there.
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I really have no idea, that's why I wouldn't pay $60 for a used system if I don't even know it works or even has hookups. I had found two with all hookups, one was $60, but it was a discolored Model 1(yuck, and plus it had an RF UNIT and not A/V cables), and another one was $70, with the same stuff, except that this one looked like it was a Model 2(the one with the smaller board), it was all gray.
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Right, I got ya. But would you say that $60 for one is too much considering the fact that you don't know whether the system is with or without hookups(another flea market close to where I live sells used SNESes for $60, and right next to that are FC Twins selling for $80(NESes cost $50))? I think so. If I find a SNES Mini at that place(not the overpriced one), how much should I offer the guy?
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Actually, I want to BUY the system FROM him, not sell my dead ones.
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No, so now 1's 100% discolored and the other is 100% gray. But, I MIGHT give up on this because one of my local flea markets has 2 discolored Model 1 SNESes with no hookups(doeen't matter, I already have them). Only problem is that I have no idea if they work. How much should I offer the guy for it? About 5 bucks Canadian? If they don't power on, it's an easy fix for me(got 2 working fuses), same with games not working(got 2 62-pin connectors). Basically, if I get one of those, I'll break off the lockout tabs and use my 2 "dead" ones for spare parts.
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By spare tops, do you mean an extra top half of the casing? If it's the case it's been replaced by the one that had the discolored bottom(the one I call "discolored"). Is that what you meant?
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Guys, I think I might have a new development on the normally colored SNES. Did I mention it was not giving out video AND audio? I believe that the A/V signal(and in the RF Unit as well) is too weak, and the problem might not be related to the PPU. I can see the white bar when I power on the system, but then I get no audio and no video. BUT, here's where I think the A/V signal is too weak, when I reset the system, I get the usual diagonal lines that straighten, then it goes back to a black screen with no audio. Could my A/V out and RF unit be shot? I found more rust on the A/V outs where they meet the board(looks like it suffered water damage from the high amount of rust I'm discovering, it's also on the front heat sink). Would swapping the RF Unit and A/V out from the discolored one help? It gets a signal, but one that is not right. Who had that problem with their SNES in which it would give no audio or video and not respond to controller inputs(which, by the way, the discolored one didn't before I shorted the voltage regulator)?
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Oh, yeah, I remember seeing this one looking for a Nintendo-Brand top-loader at a reasonable price(I can't find one for anything less than $70 Canadian).
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Anyone? I'm running out of options here! How can I fix the black screen on my normally colored SNES?
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Got a pic of that particular Famiclone?
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Honestly, I couldn't care less about the length of the FC Twin's controllers. And by the way, I'm part of the "hardcore" bunch(I LOVE classic gaming), but I don't care about minor incompatibilities here and there, as long as it's not something that butchers the game like the FC Twin does with Gradius(check the video I linked on post #8 and you'll know what I'm talking about, it's so bad audio-wise(unless I get used to it, I'll be playing it in my front-loader)). By the way, what does the Hyperkin look like?
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Who modded(or thought of modding) their gaming system?
in Classic Console Discussion
Posted
Just curious to see how many people here modded, or have thought of modding, their gaming systems, whether it's custom paint jobs or portables, every mod is welcome here. I had a couple of ideas of my own, but I scrapped them all and thought of this one for my Model 1 SNES: stuff it in a custom-made SNES Mini casing(not sure if Nintendo will like that), and if I grab a Yobo FC Game Console, probably stuff it in with it. Instructions on how to do your mods are also accepted(I will post some when I'm done with my big SNES to SNES Mini conversion, if that's what you can call it).