welshleo

Unfortunately, while I received a response regarding a query I made a few days ago regarding the availability of the E-Burner, Bob doesn't seem to be so interested in responding to questions regarding faulty CSS products. Having said that, I'd rather avoid having to ship the BB over the Atlantic to him if possible, especially if it's a simple problem (i.e. replacing a resistor or a standard 74xx logic chip) as it wouldn't be very cost effective.

Just been looking at the schematics. There are many ways of doing the same thing (a friend used a number of resistors to generate values for each joystick through the pot lines) but this is a very elegant way of doing things. Think I have a few 74xx138 chips lying around waiting for something to do. I imagine that the best way to program for this device would be to check for each joystick value and store them during a VBI. This should ensure that no lag took place and improve joystick response times. The values would be grabbed when necessary during the main program loop. A more complicated version that would theoretically allow up to 512 players would involve adding a circuit to flip between each joystick in turn and tell the system which joystick was being accessed by sending an ID value through the pot line. Programming would be a little easier as both joystick ports could be used for input. Sorry, mind thinking ahead of itself again

A little while ago an 8-bit addict gave me his Black Box. He's one of a rare breed who prefers to use standard equipment (although most of his XL and XE systems are heavily upgraded). He bought the unit with floppy board and several drives a while back, tried it once, couldn't get it to work and promptly shoved it into a cupboard. So anyway, earlier this year he dumped it on me (not that I'm complaining) along with a pile of ST stuff while making room at his place ... no doubt for more 8-bit stuff. I've tried to get the BB to work but without any luck. The manual has a hand drawn image of the BB and all socketed ICs have been drawn in. This has suggested to me that the original owner messed around with it (perhaps trying to repair it himself). I've just opened it up again to take a closer look and there are a few anomalies ... 1. One of the diodes is clearly damaged with a missing leg. But on the underside, the remains of that leg seems to have been badly soldered in place and the solder is touching a pin from the neighbouring diode. 2. The logic ICs used on the board are not of the same family in that it's a mixture of LS, HCT and even a member of the ALS family. While in theory this shouldn't affect the workings of the unit I am wondering whether or not this person tried to replace older-series LS chips with faster switching ALS or HCT chips. So what I'm really after at the moment is someone who has a working BB and who can either give me a diagram or a photograph of the two sides of the board for reference, or a list of standard ICs used on the board as shipped. In case anyone has any idea what the problem might be, the fault is simply that upon pressing the menu button on the BB, nothing happens (the LED does not light up to show that the ROM is being read).

The only trouble is that it's too quick to detect on its own. Looks like I'll have to design a circuit to latch the output from a specific address. Ho hum. Out come the AND/NOT/OR gates

I have a slightly different type of bypass switch to the norm. It was designed by someone else and comes as an external box. All it has inside is a simple circuit containing a NE555 timer chip. For someone as clumsy as me, it's proved invaluable. On the top of the box it has a switch, one red and one green LED, and a screw embedded in it which acts like a touchplate. The designer, John Foskett, realised that there was a potential problem with the standard bypass switches ... it was way too easy to forget that it was on so you'd accidentally erase data from time to time. Like me, he was also a programmer and the last thing a programmer wants is to have all their hard work destroyed (backups?? What are they??). This little device was 'semi intelligent' in that it switched itself into 'write protect' mode if you opened the drive door, if you switched it on or if you just left it in 'bypass' mode for 10 mins. You'd then switch it back into 'bypass' mode at any time by touching the touchplate. Pretty elegant solution, I thought. As for the original question: Yes, there was an LED version of the bypass switch available. I had one prior to the above mod. It had a two colour LED which lit up as red for 'write protect' and green for 'bypass' modes. I'll dig around for the instructions. Should have something on them somewhere. This particular model (bought from Micro Discount) plugged straight into the 1050.

The 6502 microcontrollers are manufactured by this company: http://www.weltrend.com (only one L ) They're marketing them as monitor controllers (presumably USB I/O and on-screen display). Just tried them now and their servers seemed to be down. However, many of their products seem to be 6502-based so just have a browse through the datasheets for an idea of what they produce. At the moment the 6502 computer project is on hold until after Christmas due to funds. I have no idea what I'm going to use for visualisation at the moment and only have a rough idea of what I'm going to do as a whole. There are several similar projects on the net so this will be just one of many. Having said that, I suppose my main wish would be for some genius to produce a VHDL or GAL version of the Atari's custom chips . Now for a quick question to the 8-bit techies here ... I'm trying to figure out how to use the cartridge port for I/O. Anyone have any pointers for me?

I was looking at the 6502 a few days ago since I've got an urge to design and build my own 6502 computer. What I discovered surprised me. There is at least one US company that produces its own 6502 processors (the G65SC02) with speeds up to 6Mhz, as well as their own 65xx series VIA, PIA and comms interface chips. What I did find mind-boggling was a Taiwanese company producing 6502 instruction-set compatible microcontrollers with 28 I/O pins and built in USB!! I think you need to take into account the age of the architecture. 2 billion units sold doesn't seem quite so much then. Haven't found anyone who still produces the 65816 yet, though.

That's the one. Thanks.

I've been searching high and low for schematics for the Atari 8-bit stuff. There is a Polish site out there with a mass of material that I've downloaded before but do you think I can find it now? Any pointers would be appreciated. David

Actually, the number of Atari 2600/VCS systems sold is around the 26 million mark. Only the Gameboy series has sold over 100 million as far as I know. Even the Playstation hasn't reached that level yet! Hell ... I remember being blown away when it was reported that Atari had shipped 7 million units!!!

I'd go with Frostbite as well and TESB. There's one common game you must add if you haven't already got it ... Galaxian. The 2600 version is one of the best of the bunch. Strangely enough, Keystone Kapers (Activision) is also a game I used to play the hell out of. Atlantis (Imagic) is another very playable game which could bring you back for more.

Does anyone have any more information on what these are (beyond the obvious ) http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...item=1356816694 Should they be added to the rarity list?

I've a few Activision picture label carts and I think that all of them have deteriorated over time, while similarly aged Atari ones are fine. Anyone know why Activision labels are so prone to mottling? Is it the paper, the coating or the glue they used?

I suppose it's each to their own. Personally I sadly don't have much time (or space) for the 2600 anymore but that doesn't stop me from collecting carts for it, just for the sake of it. At the moment, for example, I've got bids in for two boxed M-Network games. Why? Simply because I'd never seen them before. They're cheap enough so I'm not going to break the bank on them. A 'problem' has been caused by eBay, but then again if people are prepared to pay silly prices then people will *rightfully* ask silly prices. Sadly, eBay has seemingly made it harder to find cheap Atari stuff at the local car boot sale or second-hand shop. Until two years ago they came up pretty regularly but now the supply has dried up. As more people get to know how much in demand the vintage stuff is, it's making things very difficult. So at least eBay has served a purpose in that it's easier to find what you want ... the flip side is that you're gonna pay more for it. David

Just a pointer for our NTSC area friends. I'm not sure if there's any interest but there's a copy of Avalon Hill's Death Trap up on the UK eBay. It's an NTSC version (don't know if a PAL version exists). The guy is starting the bidding at the rough equivalent of $45 - $50! It's rated 8 on the AtariAge rarity list. If it is that sought after then there's also a buy-it-now on this auction ... but it'll set you back about $80 - $90!!!! Is this game really worth that much for what is a loose cart? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...item=1356261210 David