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Room 34

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  1. Hi all… if you've been around here for ages you may remember me, but I haven't been posting much. I'm having another wave of nostalgia for Atari 2600. (And I'm freaking out a bit, because I originally came around here when it had been 20 years since I got my Atari 2600… and now it's been 20 years since I joined the AtariAge forums!) Anyway… I haven't been keeping up that much with developments in emulation, but now I'm working on putting together a nice setup to play old games on my new MacBook Pro using RetroArch. I like how RetroArch takes a lot of the work out of hunting down everything (other than the actual ROMs, of course!) but I am finding it extremely irritating how it pulls in some random fake Atari 2600 box art instead of scans of the real original art. I think the attached image says it all. I'm wondering if anyone here has any ideas about ways to get the real box art. I know it exists online, because it's right on this site! But I don't want to spend ages manually updating the files, especially since I'm finding a few aspects of RetroArch's configuration tools a bit inscrutable. Thanks in advance!
  2. I wonder if they're going to be shorter than the original cartridges, the way they are in the mockups currently on the site. 🤔
  3. Well hey there. I used to be a regular around here but I haven’t posted in years. I just saw an ad for these games on Instagram and thought, what the ****! I had to come here and see what the general reaction was. I don’t quite get this. I find it hard to believe that anyone in 2021 would have a working Atari 2600 and potentially be interested in these games, and NOT know more about the community than the people behind this AtariXP business apparently do. The whole thing is just… weird.
  4. Oh right... I totally forgot about that! That's how I got my 7800 in 1997 or 1998, actually. But I don't think they ever sold 2600 games in the '80s (pre-crash). And believe me, I spent a LOT of time at Radio Shack in the '80s because it was the only place you could get tech stuff in my hometown. (I got all of my Atari games at Kmart or Kay-Bee Toys, but for anything like computers or stereo equipment it was either Radio Shack or out-of-town.)
  5. Definitely not, as it's missing my favorite Imagic game, Cosmic Ark!
  6. @JeffVav I think something else some people might not get is that with the joystick games, movement isn't going to be instantaneous. If you hold the joystick in a particular direction, you're going to move in that direction at a fixed speed. That doesn't translate well to the touchscreen and doesn't feel the way people expect it to. Therefore... it's all your fault, right?
  7. Sorry for the late response here... I just wanted to mention if it hasn't been already that I don't think Radio Shack sold 2600 games. They has their own Intellivision clone called the Tandyvision and I think they only sold games for that. Could be wrong but that's what I remember.
  8. Room 34


    Doesn't this belong on a prog rock forum? (I wonder how many people will get the "Nice" reference.)
  9. I just wanted to commend the Code Mystics team on another great job. The controls could still use a bit of refinement, but "follow touch" works especially well on paddle games... i.e. Kaboom! I can't tell you how long I've been waiting for an Activision Anthology on the iPhone and I have played Kaboom! on my phone every day all week. Pitfall II is tough with the touch controls though.
  10. IT WORKS! (No soldering required.) The key was deciphering the "3 FF" and "2 FF" codes. Page 6 of the owner's manual indicated that they corresponded to chips F2 and L2 on the board. I pulled those two chips out and re-set them in their sockets, and now it works perfectly.
  11. Thanks. That's helpful to know. Something else to consider: the machine WAS working fine for me previously. I have owned it for 10 years, and while it has mostly been sitting unused, and it did have an issue a few years back where the video collapsed down to a bright point in the center of the screen, it has otherwise worked fine. The last time I fired it up, several months ago, there were no problems. I am thinking the most likely scenario is that a chip has come loose. Hopefully that isn't going to require me soldering. (Again… you have no idea how incompetent I am with a soldering iron.)
  12. Hmm… another update. I found a PDF of the original owner's manual: http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/A/Asteroids.pdf Page 6 talks about the "3 FF" and "2 FF" in the upper left. Looks like they are indicators of failing ROMs/PROMs, and since they're showing FF that looks like total failure. :/ I may be in over my head on this. Looks like some ROMs need to be replaced. Soldering may be involved. (Did I mention I am dangerous with a soldering iron?)
  13. Update: After a couple of weeks away from it, I decided to give the Asteroids machine another look tonight. Some interesting developments: 1. I inspected all of the fuses. I missed this before, but one of them was blown. So I went to Radio Shack tonight and got a replacement. 2. After replacing the fuse, the display still didn't work. But then as I continued inspecting, I noticed there were some latches that could be released to lift up the table top. (Yeah… I'm not an expert on these things. I had never noticed that.) So just for the heck of it I opened it up, and I discovered an instruction sheet for putting the unit in self-test mode. 3. In self-test mode, the screen came on immediately! I took a photo of the test screen so I could remember the codes that came up. Basically there was a row of 0's (which I assumed was good), and on the left, "2 FF" and "3 FF". Haven't deciphered that yet. 4. I Googled (not sure why I didn't try this before) and found some good troubleshooting sites, including: http://arcarc.xmission.com/Tech/Asteroid%20Tech/asteroidsrepair.html Which gave some good suggestions for what to do in my situation (both player buttons flashing quickly, with no video). That's all I'm going to be able to accomplish tonight, but I am now more confident that this thing is not dead and that I will be able to get it working. Here's a photo I took of the self test mode screen.
  14. I'm afraid much of what you said is beyond my understanding of electronics (and is one of the reasons why owning an arcade cabinet is not for the faint of heart). I can replace a fuse, but that's about the extent of my abilities. One thing that may be relevant though, suggesting the problem may not be with the CRT: it's impossible to start a game. I neglected to mention this in the video, but I had pressed the 1-player start button, and nothing happened… I expected to at least get game sounds, indicating the game was playing, but I didn't. Could it be that there's a loose connection on one of the cables, or a chip that's come loose? Since it hasn't been moved or jostled much, I didn't expect anything to have come loose inside, but I suppose it's possible. But then again, I expected that the purpose of the two red lights I saw inside was to indicate the boards were functioning normally.
  15. I have an Asteroids cocktail table that I've owned for about 10 years. It has been sitting upstairs in my house unused for the past several months. The last time I fired it up, though, it was working perfectly. Unfortunately now I have a problem. I just turned it on, for the first time in months, and there's no video. It's definitely turning on (I can hear it) and when I open the cabinet while it's powered up, I see a solid red light on each board, and an orange glow coming from the bottom of the CRT. (Is that a vacuum tube? I have no idea.) But nothing ever comes up on the screen. My problem is, I don't know if the CRT is just dying/dead (in which case, I think it's pretty much a lost cause), or if there's a simple part like a vacuum tube or fuse that needs to be replaced. Or maybe it's something with one of the boards, but I don't think that's the case. I created a video demonstrating what I've described above, in case actually seeing it in action helps anyone diagnose the problem. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGol128neWY Basically, I am just hoping someone who knows more about how these things work can give me an idea of whether this is something I can easily resolve myself, whether it needs a pro repair, or whether it's just a lost cause. (I am old enough to know that it takes a while for this kind of display to warm up. But even after it was left on for several minutes, there was nothing on the screen.) Thanks!
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