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Gunstar last won the day on January 13 2019

Gunstar had the most liked content!

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About Gunstar

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  • Birthday 08/12/1968

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    Way out in the wild near Kellyville, Oklahoma
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    Electronics, videogames, motorcycles, great outdoors,painting/art in all mediums

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  1. Well I'm sure Duddie would replace it for you, like he is going to do for me, if you asked him, anyway. It is supposed to be a collector's item after all. And you are located a lot closer to him than I. But have happy times with your game, whatever you decide. I know I will, I did buy it to play it, not to stick it on a shelf (if that's all I had bought it for, I probably would never even have noticed the cartridge condition actually), but of course the box is on display, since it is a high-quality collector's edition.
  2. I'm glad it works out for you o.k., but when I pay $59.44, with shipping, for a 'collectors edition' game, I expect it to be perfect, and have every right to expect that as a collector and gamer. If I were paying half that for a "slightly dis-formed" discount version, then it would be acceptable.
  3. After I re-worked the cartridge case by shortening one of the case half posts and trimming the side of the post halves were they would press against the PCB's chip socket, and changing out the screw for a shorter one, I managed to get the case to close properly, with the PCB flipped so the screw side is the back. but the PCB was loose inside, so I added rubber washer and foam as a spacer between the PCB and case on the bottom, taped in place which now holds the PCB tightly in place. Though I'd still appreciate a new case and new label decal to replace this twice removed and thrice applied label. I can use this re-worked case for a home-brew cartridge for myself.
  4. Here it is, back together again, the way it came, with the screw recessed and not pushing against the label (did I set that label too low or too high?). Though the corners I peeled from don't stick down any more. But there is nothing that can be done, without my taking tools to the case and attempting to fix the issues. The case molding does look a bit sloppy, and no trimming was done by the manufacturer, but the issue could likely also be, as I said, due to the socket on the PCB being too close to the case's screw stem. But the case halves appear to be slightly concave on the outside, convex on the inside so that screwing it tight doesn't help and may actually contribute to it. The edges then don't touch and interlock. I can, of course center the PCB, and manage to plug it in using my SSDX cart's extension or my 1200XL cartridge extension of @Dropcheck 's, I've purposely moved it for show because this can happen while attempting to insert it directly in my 1200XL's modified-to-fit cartridge port. I think these reflective label shots below reveal the case deformity, as well as the blank case shots in the previous post.
  5. I have removed the label, without too much damage, though I don't know how well it would re-stick. I noticed the screw was slightly angled (first pic, before I adjusted it), I attempted to correct this when I removed and re-screwed it back in. I was able to recess the screw head more, but it did not help to properly close the case or secure the board. I also flipped the board and tried it facing the way @Dropcheck 's SDX board faced, but that way the case half tilts to one side. Either due to the chip socket's proximity or the poorly made case that causes it not to close the other way.
  6. @Duddie OK, will do as you say. I did notice that my V.1 SSDX cart from @Dropcheck uses the same cartridge design, I think it was said that it's a Commodore designed case? Not an issue for me as I long ago modified my 1200XL cart port to fit the SSDX cart and subsequently every other cart that didn't fit. But she made the label side the side you used for the back and the screw side is the back, so it can be easily opened to change out the RTC battery or reprogram the chip with the latest version of SDX. It seems cart PCB's fit either way? Unless, of course, your choice was intentional to cut down on possible rom piracy by having to possibly destroy the label to open it?
  7. That is pretty incredible looking! I also really like the Jaguar remake "Fallen Angels." Not nearly as up to date as Fractalus, but still also an incredible update for the 27-year-old console, and it fits since it's an Atari console. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kh_39WlffcA
  8. Here is the original thread about this: https://atariage.com/forums/topic/244785-back-to-the-future-written-on-an-xe/?tab=comments#comment-3350126
  9. If this is not normal, then I would very much appreciate it @Duddie , if you can send me a new label so that I can correct your poor assembly work.
  10. 1985. It is an XE, that was established for sure in the previous thread about it. I also owned one for 20 years and can verify, even from that poor picture that it is an XE.
  11. I received my copy of RE today. It managed to make it unscathed through the two postal systems. I like the packaging, but I do NOT like the cartridge, at least not the way mine was assembled. The screw that holds the case together is bulging and threatening to tear through the label, the case is loose, either because it was not assembled correctly or because the PCB does not properly fit the case! I can snap it shut, but it comes apart again. The PCB inside is loose and shifts around making it very difficult to plug in correctly and get good contact. And I can't do anything to correct the problem (if possible) because I'll probably destroy the label attempting to remove it to correct the problem (if possible). If this is the way all the cartridges are, then either a new case needs to be used or a PCB that properly fits! I would assume it's my bad luck of getting a cartridge like this though, else I think others would have complained already. This sucks!!! I won't be buying any more cartridges from Retronics unless this shit is fixed! I am VERY disappointed in this cartridge/assembly.
  12. Yep, been there, done that, it's still cool though. Someone was commenting on the printer there in one of the previous threads too.
  13. Thanks, I will look into these other disk-salvaging options. As far as the 1050 I use with APE's prosystem, it is a Happy upgraded drive, so either Happy 1050's still format first and verify later, or Prosystem bypasses the standard way the drive formats and allows formatting before verifying. After all, it has the "quick format" which does just that without verification at all.
  14. That philosophy only works when there are enough of the custom IC's (eventually all IC's, but maybe not in our lifetimes) to keep them all running. Sooner or later the only place to get parts will be from computers and devices as salvage unless you want to rely on a bunch of chip emulation boards throughout the entire system. Personally I think it better to have one working machine than two or more that don't work because there are no parts to fix them. We are already at the point, apparently, where this is happening with Pokey's. I have never had to replace a capacitor or other basic component due to failure* on any of the Atari's I own or owned (once on a 1050 drive), I have had to replace PIA's, Antic's, GTIA's and 6502C's several times. Maybe my experience is an isolated fluke of luck, good and bad. I do expect to be replacing basic components in the future, especially capacitors as they continue to age and be used. My point is, that I have bought several non-working, as-is, for parts only Atari's off of eBay and every time it was bad IC's; ram, support chips and custom processors I had to replace to get them running again, not basic components. *I'm trouble-shooting one of my 1200XL's right now and it appears to be the first one, in my life, I need to replace basic components to repair. I've removed or replaced basic components while doing upgrades and mods, but the originals still work and I save them.
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