[Sears Video Arcade II (Atari 2800-Japan) Restoration]

On 8/4/2022 at 5:57 PM, David1970 said:

Thanks, I had an extra Atari 2600 laying around so I took the 6507 chip out of it and put it in the Sears Video Arcade ll and guess what, it worked. But now I have another problem, I can't get the controllers to work. I plugged them in every port and nothing. If you have any advice about this I would greatly appreciate it. 

Thanks,

David

Sorry, I read this response by the 5th at least, but I was apparently in a hurry or got distracted, and then eventually forgot to reply. 

 

The fact is, I'm much more knowledgeable about 8-bit computers (especially Atari, but all of them in general-and the 5200 since it's essentially an Atari 400 computer) and so I don't recall off the top of my head how the 2600 reads the joystick/paddle lines. I'm used to a Pokey chip handling most I/O and secondly a PIA chip (in Atari and most other 8-bts) to do or help with I/O. So I will get back to you on this one, as I don't know if the 6507 or TIA reads the controller ports, of if it's done by a non-central-chip circuit that may use one or more 74LSXX series IC's and/or transistors to handle port reads. 

 

So sorry, I'll have to yet get back to you on this, I just wanted to reply since it's been so long and you probably thought I ignored you.

[Sears Video Arcade II (Atari 2800-Japan) Restoration]

The first thing I would try in trouble shooting is to make sure the cartridge slot and cartridges edge connectors are well cleaned. Then replace the video cable to see if it is broken. Any known working audio/video RCA cord will do. If that's not it, next I would try replacing the 6507 and TIA chips, if they have sockets and you have spares or some you can borrow from another working 2600 that is also sockets. If that isn't possible or that easy, then skip that trouble shooting step for now, and turn your attention toward the RF modulator. Make sure the switch is working correctly and make any adjustments possible, make sure all connections/wires are soldered good. And I'd ask how you feel about doing an A/V mod to it and removing the modulator. If all of that is done then it's time to look at replacing the 6502 and TIA chips and/or any of the small support IC's like 74LSxx types and others. I also recommend replacing all capacitors with new ones, something I will be doing to my VA2 soon, even though it;s working, when I do an A/V mod to it.

[Atari 1020 plotter: repairing, finding parts, finding replacement pens & how to refill and reuse your dried out pens]

Sorry I didn't notice this comment earlier or get around to doing this blog sooner @Tonyscouter. what you want are oil based inks, that generally come in small bottles, that are used for Calligraphy and Calligraphy pens, generally found at art supply stores, but I'm sure can be found in online art supply stores or Amazon even. I haven't looked in quite a while now. They come in a variety of colors, including the original RGB and Black the 1020 uses, but many other colors are available. Before refilling a pen with a color other than original, take out the fiberglass filament (like found in magic markers) inside the pen and soak it in a mix of bleach and water, about 20:1 ratio water over bleach until it becomes white again. gently squeeze out after, not hard enough to crush it flat, and then allow to finish air drying before putting it back in the pen. (which you gently pulled the pen top off using two sets of needle-nose plyers) then add ink until soaked using a syringe, and put the top back on the pen.

[My custom Atari 800CX : The upgrade and mod evolution from a stock 800]

On 2/19/2022 at 7:29 PM, WhataKowinkydink said:

Just saw your avatar in a Ballyalley thread and found myself stumbling onto this project blog.  This thing looks beautiful - really nice work.

Thank you very much.

[My custom Atari 800CX : The upgrade and mod evolution from a stock 800]

1 hour ago, Simply_Graham said:

Wow a lot of work there.

I think the white looks great, wondering how you did the keys, are they adapted from the XE or maybe the ST line, or just painted with transfers, be nice to see in a future Blog update.

??

It's the original keyboard, all keys removed and painted individually with vinyl key cap labels ordered from Germany through Poly-Play. https://www.polyplay.xyz/News_1

The white keys have vinyl labels and the gray and blue keys have DIY labels. If it's not detailed in my blog, I detailed it in "What's new pussycat too" thread on Atari Owner's Club or in threads in the Atari 8-bit hardware sub-forum there. But I understand you were away for a while and there's a lot of posts to sift through...

[Bally Professional Arcade, Montgomery Ward model: complete restoration]

I did forget about painting the "insert cassette" text red. I will do that and add a picture of it later, when I add a picture of my fully repaired and restored controllers.

[Bally Professional Arcade, Montgomery Ward model: complete restoration]

I think I will go with red painted lettering then. I have a new Testors enamel model paint set with all the basic colors, so I can mix paints to get as close to the proper shade of red as I can. I bought them when I was doing my 800CX project to paint all the raised text black. And I do think it would be cool too with the red RESET button, but I would rather have all the metallic trim and highlights all gold chrome. All silver would look good too, but I've seen pictures of Bally's with both gold and silver on them, and even on my own, though the silver was done poorly, but I don't like them mixed.

 

Yeah, I know the metallic trim around the outside edge of the name badge looks more silver than gold, but the Bally name is in gold, though it looks like it has faded possibly and I think the silver looking trim on the name tag was once gold too, but faded even more, I'm not sure. You've seen more of them in person than I though, what do you think?

[My new TRS-80 Coco 2: First look and immediate upgrade and modding]

I'm the opposite about emulation. I want to own and use the original hardware, and of course you can't repair, restore, upgrade and customize an emulator physically, and that's half the hobby for me is working on the hardware, I'm very much a hardware guy that wants to tinker with the electronics just as much as playing the software, and emulating the software just doesn't do it for me.

 

If I can't have the real thing, then I have no further inclination toward them. But to each their own. Just like the types of vintage computers we all prefer, like for example I used Apple II's plenty in high school and learned BASIC on them in class, but once I got my Atari with it's incredible graphics on top of everything the Apple has, IMHO, I could never go back to an Apple II. In fact it's about the last retro computer I'd ever collect, regardless of cost. I rather have C64's and Coco's and TI-99/4A's and even the Coleco Adam before I'd want to go back to the primitive graphics of the Apple II. I find it absolutely hilarious how Apple owner's are so snobbish about their over-priced, under powered hardware and how superior they think they and their computers are and it's all a branding illusion they've been suckered into from my perspective. 

 

And honestly, like the Coco's peripherals (legacy ones anyway) I don't care for Apple II's primitive dumb drives and other dumb peripherals that require interface boards in the computer or sticking out the cartridge slot, where as Atari's drives and peripherals are all smart, with all they need built into the peripheral and are plug and play, just like USB. Atari SIO is in fact the precursor to USB with Joe Decur the who invented Atari SIO and was on the team that invented USB and smart plug and play peripherals that don't require cards and cumbersome drivers and setting up, for PC's and Mac's so they could finally catch up to the Atari with peripherals that are smart plug-and-play, just like Atari computers have used since 1979.

 

And by the way, on my Atari I also have graphics like Apple II's, which has high-res 320x200 monochrome mode that can use artifacting just like Apple II's for color and I grew up playing the same artifact color games like the Ultima Series and others, plus 14 other graphic modes that can be mixed to achieve software graphic interlaced modes with 256 colors on-screen at once. I'm an artist and graphic pixel artist And Apple II's and Mac's would never do, I need Atari 8-bits and Commodore Amigas with incredible graphics and sound for their day.

 

I suspect you may want to check out some C64 and Atari 8-bit archival sites and see the massive amounts of software they have too. On tape, disk and cartridge rom. The disks games alone for them run well into the thousands and tens of thousands. The TRS-80 Coco line is actually the first computer line I've owned where software titles are only in the hundreds instead of thousands and tens of thousands. 

 

But as I said, to each their own and I'm not unreasonably biased toward any computer, I just know the ones I like and don't. I've owned and repaired and restored Apple IIc's and Laser 128's too, but I rarely used them, so sold them. The Coco is an interesting machine, but far below what I'm used to as well, just like Apple's, which is why I'm immediately upgrading it into a much better machine before I even turn it on a second time. I'm learning to love it and enjoying working on it since that's half my hobby too. It's always fun to explore the electronics and tinker with them.

[Bally Professional Arcade, Montgomery Ward model: complete restoration]

I want to ask you people that actually read this blog what you think about a cosmetic modification to the Bally's case that isn't an attempt to restore it to look original. You may or may not have noticed, depending on if you looked through any of my other blogs, that I'm not afraid to do upgrades, other modifications and even do completely custom paint-jobs to a console or computer. Sometimes I want it to be absolutely adhere to being restored to original condition and stock inside too.

 

But if I think a computer or console already looks good, but feel like the manufacturer should have had just a little more attention to detail and completeness. One thing that I almost always modify is the raised text on injection-molded plastic cases and face plates with brands that don't highlight the lettering with paint to make it easy to read and in my opinion, just classier looking and just looks more "complete." to me. Usually it's just small lettering though, by power switches and peripheral ports. 

 

To the point: I keep thinking about the raised text and arrow on the Bally's cart port that reads "insert cassette" with an arrow pointing to the cassette port. I don't like it not being highlighted with paint or electroplated gold chrome paint, and I am definitely going to paint it.

 

But I would not be trying to match the gold trim and button text, but possibly painting it the same muted golden-yellow color that surrounds the mathematic symbols on the Bally's keypad, so it would still go with the motif of the system.  So what do YOU think? Would that color look good on that text?

 

 Since I can't make it gold chrome like the trim, because I can't use the straight pin-striping on stuff this thin and not in a straight line. Would the same color of "yellow" on the keypad face plate look good on the cartridge door raised text? Or maybe I should go with the same shade of red that is on the Bally Arcade name badge? would that look better? or maybe white since that is on the name badge too? Again, I will be painting it one of these colors, no matter what, I would just like opinions on which and I'm leaning toward the keypad yellow.

 

I am keeping this the rest of my life and I don't care about losing value due too it not being 100% original looking in this restoration. It's all about the hobby and my vintage systems looking and working as new as possible, and looking good to me if I'm not totally satisfied with it's original look.

 

 

 

 

[Bally Professional Arcade, Montgomery Ward model: complete restoration]

Thanks @Keatah. I'll be able to test the Bally and continue this blog with the results sooner than I expected, as after @Allen Schweitzer read my blog (a VERY experienced Bally Arcade/Astrocade restorer and seller) he messaged me and offered to loan me an extra original PSU that he has until I get mine built!

 

If the test results are good, then the blog will be close to an end, with just finishing up the DIY PSU. If not, then the blog will extend into a trouble-shooting phase until it does work. Most likely at this point it would be dead IC's or power regulators or both.

 

Of course it won't be the end of hearing about me working on my Bally, just the end of the repair and restore blog. I plan on doing all the possible upgrades and expansions I can to it, whether I manage to find them for sale, at a price I can afford, or more likely, I build replicas from scratch, either way there will be upgrade/mod blogs to come for this Bally Arcade.

 

And I'll be jumping on the joystick repairs next instead of last thanks to this opportunity, something that Allen is interested in, and he's also sending me a couple of broken joystick case halves for me to practice on before attempting mine.

 

And if I happen to be successful and do a good job the first time, then Allen will get back some fixed controller case halves he can use.

 

And that's not all! He offered to swap RESET buttons with me as he has a spare with mostly intact gold chrome paint. So it would be very minor touch up on the button I get from him (if it wasn't just the photo fooling my eyes and it doesn't need touch-up at all) and my EJECT button, it only needs the top part of the 'T' touched up. And the 'T' I might actually be able to just use a trimmed down piece of the gold chrome trim I have, and just overlay it across the T's top bar. That might look better than gold paint that won't have the true chrome shine.

 

And Allen is a great guy.

 

 If your looking to get a Bally Arcade/Astrocade or one of the other named versions, look too him. you'll get a better price from him than ebay, for a restored and repaired system that you know will work compared to one just pulled out of the garage or basement looking and maybe not working, like mine before I restored it. Especially if you don't have the time or just have no interest in repairing and/or restoring one yourself like Allen or I. 

[The Poor Man's 1400XL Part 2]

I'm very curious as to why you chose the DIN7 and DIN13 connectors for this project? Why not a much more standard positive/ground power connector like the original, to fit a common 5v PSU, like from an old cell phone, or even keep the original and find a PSU that fits or splice in the plug from the original PSU? And why not just use a standard VGA connector for the VBXE output? It seem to me the ones you chose are out of the ordinary and far more complicated to make cables or find PSU's to fit. Is there some logic to your choices that I'm just not seeing?

[The Poor Man's 1400XL (or Adding a rear-mounted PBI to a 1200XL and making it run off a 5v PSU)]

Yeah, I never had a problem with my 1084S and my Atari's, of course I'm using NTSC machines or one NTSC with PAL Antic, but all work fine for chroma and luma. my 1084's sub-variant is 1084S-P

 

Are you aware that the 1200XL doesn;t have it's chroma attached? Without a video mod, you have to use composite for the chroma out. There's a simple mod for connecting the chroma line with the rest of the video-circuit as-is, if you don't want to do a full video upgrade like the Clearpic or SuperVideo upgrades. This is something I assumed you knew since you seem to be quite adept at upgrading, but I'm just making sure, especially now that I know it's a chroma problem and not luma. I'm guessing that hooking up to LCD is not through RCA chroma/luma inputs? If so, the LCD's are getting the composite signal for the chroma would be my guess...are you hooking up to the LCD's via composite or a S-video cable of some type (which might be using the composite for the chroma)?

[The Poor Man's 1400XL Part 4]

I find the PAL screen (with my PAL ANTIC installed) far to squished looking, I have to adjust the vertical height so it's as tall as NTSC. Of course when I use games and demos that are overscanned PAL, I have to adjust the height again to see everything on screen!

[The Poor Man's 1400XL (or Adding a rear-mounted PBI to a 1200XL and making it run off a 5v PSU)]

Hello Flashjazzcat!

 

As you know from the main 8-bit forum, I'm repairing and upgrading a couple 1200's right now, so I've gotten excited about upgrades again since I have to take them apart for repairs anyway.

So, discussions with you have led me to your blog, just getting started here, but right off the bat I see something that piqued my curiosity. You say that you were having problems getting your 1084S to sync to the luma. I also use that same monitor, 1084S 50/60HZ (they all are aren't they), and I've never had any luma sync problems. (on a fully working 1200XL that is)

Can you explain further?