Gunstar

@tschak909 I am just starting to do this update and following the instructions you linked too, but when I go to the second page of Atari-apps/Irata.online there is no Ultimate_1MB_FujiNet_and_UFlash.atr to select there, only fnc-tool-doc.atr and fnc-tools.atr. Has it been moved elsewhere or taken down for some reason? Thanks.

While I am awaiting a non-functioning Sophia 2 to return to Simius to diagnose and a new one sent out, I have been checking out terminal programs with my Fujinet, and here is what Flickerterm looks like through my S-video to VGA converter (sorry about the glare):

Thanks @_The Doctor__, but apparently I won't have to do that at this time, because my dumb-ass forgot to install the CP210X driver! I installed it and everything worked and I already have the firmware updated!

@tschak909 Ok, I just spent the better part of an hour going through all twelve pages of that thread, and see absolutely nothing about PC's not recognizing the Fujinet and no fix you describe. I found one thing about the flasher program not recognizing the Fujinet, but your answer was to make sure it's a data USB cord and not Power, and that's it. Nothing further. Can you give me a post number or something to look for? Or how about just telling me which two pins I need to bridge on the UART chip?

When I plug my Fujinet into my PC (Windows 7) and power Fujinet on for flasher updating (straight into PC USB, no hub or other) it says device unknown and in the details it says it shut it down every time.

Well, honestly I don't know, yet. I assumed there would be or will soon be, but I'm just learning to use it and find out what there is still.

WOW. Now we just need some .xex's from you so we can see them on the real McCoy.! Those are incredible

Well, hopefully I can join you guys there once I get my Fujinet up and running. But I don't have the proper type of USB cable to hook up to it and download firmware and other stuff yet to get going. I have the same issue with my new 3D printer that I got, and also didn't include a USB cable, and I don't have the right type for either one, so I can't do much with either until the cables I ordered off Amazon get here... And, of course, they are both different types so I had to buy 2. Mini and Micro, and all I have on hand are either USB A, USB B or USB C. I do have a couple Micro ones, from my older smart phones,but they don't work anymore. I used to have a couple of the Mini's, but I couldn't find them.

What, no 80 columns?

Thanks, but of course neither my 800 or 1200XL are stock machines, they've been modded and upgraded to act as later XL/XE models, including the addition of PBI's on both, so I don't think that necessarily applies in my case, but I do intend to use USB PSU on the Fujinet with both, regardless, because that way the Fujinet can stay on when I power cycle or cold reset the machines. My 1200XL: My 800: https://atariage.com/forums/blogs/entry/17138-upgrading-and-modding-the-atari-800-too-an-800ai-advanceincognito/

My "sweet spot" in number of solutions is about 8000. I actually have this "theory" that Rastaconverter can work better with multiples of 8 that computers are based on. I started out years ago using 1024, then 2048, then 4096, then 8192. and I kept going higher than that but images would take much longer to render and weren't any better in the end than with 8192 and errors where much more frequent the more evaluations they had to run, so I went back to 8192 and that's what I stick with for all my images now and they are resolved good enough between 150-500M. Of course every image is different for me when it comes to other settings, and the more you do, the better you get at knowing what settings work best for different types of images. You can judge for yourself by the quality of my images and lower number of evaluations I use if my "theory" is a good one... This is a great image, IMHO, by the way.

@777ismyname The image of the Smoky Mountains I posted was just an image I pulled off the net, as are most of my conversions, so I can't say exactly what part of the mountains it's from or what polar direction it was taken from.

Just a tip on conversions: If you are getting a lot of horizontal line segments in your images, it due to not having the contrast set high enough, and Rasta is having trouble distinguishing between shades of color; it has to reduce image colors from 256 in the destination picture down to a 128 color palette, and then on average you get about half that many colors in the output image, because it can only average about a dozen colors per scan line. This is one of those things were if you are seeing too many line segments by 50M evaluations, stop the conversion and raise the contrast and start over. The higher the contrast the easier it is for Rastconverter to pick and change colors. Of course it's all about compromise and you may have to change color brightness and gamma to make the picture still look good with the higher contrast. The more images you do, the more you'll notice what works and what doesn't.

Sounds very cool. I have a Pokeymax Quad + Covox upgrade in my 800, that can play MOD files and a bunch of other stuff too. 8 channel stereo with Covox and up to 16 channels of stereo with 4 emulated Pokeys. There's a version of Pokeymax you can get with SID emulation too, maybe even stereo SID. Pokey channels can be 8-bit 3 1/2 octaves or 2 combined for 16-bit 7 octaves, Just a bunch of cool stuff can be done with it too.

Where and/or what is the ##atari channel? Oh, is that an IRC? Something I'm also not familiar with, all I ever do is go to forums and websites, so I'd still need more info...if I can get on it with my Atari and Fujinet I'd love to try, But with my PC I only ever use it for forums and websites...

I've gotten into a bad habit of automatically scrolling past the pinned topics and sub-forums at the top, because most of them either don't interest me or is about something I already know all about. (slaps self on forehead and back of other hand) But like I said, often I don't bother with sub-forums and topics for stuff I don't own, or threads about on-going developments that haven't been released yet, as I'm a hands-on guy. Now I own Fujinet, so NOW I'm interested. But my bad habit made me not even bother to look at the sub-forums to see if the Fujinet info was there.

I'll have to get one of those UII+'s when I get my C64! It seems to be a Swiss army knife device like the Fujinet.

It works, as far as I know, but I have no land line anymore so no way to use it. I was going to use it with an old router I have that has phone line connections on it and hook it in with my Internet modem and Netgear wi-fi, but then the Fujinet came along so I got it instead. I'll put the case to another use for something eventually, but I'll probably just salvage the electronic components and the SIO ports off it's PCB for other uses. Maybe I'll convert it into a 3.5" drive or I have a 27XX eprom burner for my Atari's that could use a case, maybe I'll use it for that. But it's more for collection purposes right now, too look pretty. I suppose I could make a DIY Fujinet for my 1200XL and install it in the case too, and set up a local area network between it and my new Fujinet I just got for my 800.

@MazzspeedThanks, just edited post above... I bought those cartridge caddies from another AA member, but now I can print them myself! What is the black box on top of your 1541?

Thanks! I just got the 410 a few months ago and have not used it yet because it needs new belts installed, which I have, but too many other projects going on so it's way down the list. Plus I have a 1010 with my 1200XL which I do use quite a bit, but it's also upgraded for super speedy loading with Rambit. The speakers do match the 1200XL, but I need to retro-bright or sun-bright or paint my other XL peripherals soon so they all match! Of course under the incandescent room lighting everything there looks like it matches well, it's only when photoed with the white flash of my phone camera that shows the dingy-ness of the 1050 drives and 1010, 1020 and 1030. I love your Commodore set-up too @Mazzspeed and hope to have a similar system myself soon. The only issue is where I will put it. I'll have to move some stuff around to make room, and I just made this desk area over-crowded already since I just set up a new 3D printer, out of picture to the left of the 1200XL! If you want to see pictures of it, you'll have to visit this thread here: https://atariage.com/forums/topic/289596-3-d-printable-atari-8-bit-cartridge-holder/page/5/#comments

Can I assume that the SpartaDOS X + U1MB + Fujinet utilities configuration works with my Incognito too, since they are pretty much the same, even though the Fujinet documentation doesn't say "Incognito" anywhere? And if I am in XL/XE mode on my Incognito, do I still need the USB power? That is only an academic question though as I do intend to use USB power just to keep Fujinet on when I may need to cold start my 800.

Oh, is THAT what the USB port is for! I was kind of wondering why there was one there since it's already WI-FI! Thank you very much!

I received my 'The Brewing Academy' version of Fujinet today, with a 400/800 style case and extras like the Jtag and power switch. But I didn't really keep up with all the threads on Fujinet (I searched and there are many threads for Fujinet) as I like to learn about things hands-on, so now that I have it, I've no idea how to use it all or even all of it's features. So, I'm looking for any documentation on instructions and features for it now. Can someone point me to them?

I have two similar monitor stands I also made myself, one for my 1200XL and one for my 800. The one I made for my 1200XL is exactly the same height as the XL, meant to give some extra depth so I can have my two 1050 drives sitting on top of it and the 1200XL too, resembling in a small way the Atari 1400XLD. My 800 stand is slightly taller than the 800 so I can have my 800 partially underneath to give me extra desk space in front of the 800 to rest my elbows while typing (the area of my L shaped desk where the 1200XL sits is much deeper) though I also have my two Indus GT drives on top of it too. Both also do an excellent job of hiding all the cables and PBI attachments coming out the back.

Now that I have the printer and it's set up, I can tell you that the Z-axis does not need to be shimmed. The mount is a perfect square bend and everything is in perfect alignment. The rest I'll have to see how they work, but the bed seems to be pretty good and has a grippy texture to it, but only use will tell how good it is. I'll definitely get the BLtouch and solid bed mounts. It is a plastic extruder, so I'll probably get a metal one. The cooling duct seems to be a well built one, it's a metal box, not plastic, but only use will tell how well it works. As to the side mount spool, I think I'll make the filament roller guide that @toddtmw linked too first, as due to where I have my printer and the space I have for it, I'd rather not have a side mount one if it can be helped. I like it up top. Also, @skr suggested some noise dampeners, but after doing a test print to confirm proper build leveling and proper nozzle height, that it's a pretty quite printer, no noise dampeners required as far as I'm concerned. The only plastic parts on this printer are the front cover for the Y-axis pressure/contact switch, the side mount plate for the X-Axis pressure/contact switch, the extruder and the build level dials. Everything else is made of metal. If this is a knock off the the Creality Ender 3 pro, it's a quality built knock off.