Gunstar

Thanks for the link. Though with shipping these days I may be better off finding another place that is domestic, for now I'll order filament from Amazon

Thanks, didn't know about Woot even though I've been an Amazon Prime member for years. I got the printer for 40% off the price on Amazon, I really appreciate that!

I still use the plunger and wick myself. I almost bought a desoldering iron station, but before the plunger I used only wick, and with the plunger and a PCB holder so I could work with both sides of the PCB at once, I find the plunger and wick and holder good enough for me, since I only do stuff for myself too. I've become pretty quick and adept enough to not worry about a desoldering station. I've decided to buy a 3D printer instead.

Is an enclosure necessary for the Ender 3?

Cool, thanks for the info, pretty good is good enough for me, for my first 3D printer. If I really get into printing 3D a lot, I'll look for something better down the road, I just don't want to buy something that total crap and money down the toilet. I'll take a look at them. What types of filament should I use and avoid? I'll wait a bit yet before pulling the trigger in case others have suggestions so I can choose from a couple... Also, being a total noob to 3D printing, is an enclosure necessary? I also see a bundle option with a silent mainboard, what's that about? Is it something I need or is it just if you want silent printing or something? I don't care about noise.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a budget 3D printer $300 or less? I see quite a few on Amazon, but are printers that cheap total crap, or do some of you use similar?

Never heard of them...I use Mouser, Digi-key and Amazon. If we are talking electronic components... Edit: I was writing as @skr posted...with today's international shipping, I'd never be using them anyway...

That's what mine was until my 1080 went belly-up, then I went full PAL out to a converter (until I repair the 1080). But I don't know that I'll even go back to hybrid at this point. The 1080 repair is off the back-burner now though, since I have a Sophia 2 on the way for my 800 that I want to go with RGB CRT on the 1080 now, so it's even more likely that the 1200XL will stay full PAL since even my converters don't like the hybrid signal, and the 1080 is no longer for the 1200XL.

They all are all compatible and have the same software library only held back possibly by less than 64K memory. But these days, as @Stephen said, go with PAL. Most NTSC software, if not all, works fine on PAL anyway, while NTSC is incompatible with probably 80-90% of PAL software. These days with modern TV's and/or converters I see no sense in limiting oneself by sticking with NTSC. I've converted both my 1200XL and 800 to PAL. I was thinking about converting my 1200XL back to NTSC for NTSC games since they run slightly faster, but then decided it's not that big a difference to matter really...but personally I suggest upgrading and modding the 1200XL as it has the best keyboard and the most room inside for upgrades, and the best styling of all Atari 8-bits, IMHO.

I found a link to Atari User magazine through the Atarimax website, and discovered a current magazine that I didn't know existed. Sure, I've heard Atari User Magazine many times on AA forums, but I always assumed it was about the old British or U.S. magazines by the same name. I just purchased the PDF versions of all that were available to buy...$115 total, but I am loving the magazine! http://www.atariuser.com/ Digital and print copies can be purchased here (do a search for Atari User): https://www.magcloud.com/?firstTime=True

Desert Island Idea. 60 colors. DesertIslandIdea.xex

The problem isn't the cartridge holder, it fits 99% of Atari cartridges, the problem is some people using Commodore sized cartridge cases for Atari software & hardware! After my second replacement commodore cartridge case from Retronics that still didn't close up right with a PCB not meant to fit, I finally put my 'The Rescue Expedition board in my old The!Cart case, (as I had put it in a real Atari cartridge) now it closes right (after my own modification to the PCB) and fits in the Atari cart holder (see my picture in post #43).

Possibly, but I'm not "Okie" stock. I was born in Texas, though most of my youth I grew up in the Chicago suburbs.

The question(s) were rhetorical, and your intention was not to "offer" suggestions, but to reprimanded me in your passive-aggressive ways. Just like your latest post above. Back to the ignore list...

Yeah, this is what I'm talking about. Maybe DVI/HDMI in 4:3 is available on some screens, not mine either.

I forgot to mention that I'm talking about with an HDMI screen, if you're TV/monitor has a "ZOOM" option the PAL Atari Window fits the 16:9 screen pretty perfectly. Not zoomed in it's out of ratio, but then any NTSC screens played on PAL are out of ratio anyway.

Well, as I stated, I really only visit this forum, direct link and all, and this is where I "know" people. I didn't know there was a specific thread for the new VCS. But whomever hangs out there wasn't my target audience, people here were. The thread isn't enough of a concern to me to have it moved (admin can if they want) or to restart it. It was just a bit of trivial news about a company and product that bares the name we all remember fondly, and I thought maybe even 8-bitters, who I converse with, might have some interest too. But whatever...what done is done, and I accomplished what I intended; to let people here know, if they care. Anyone following the actual new VCS forum would probably already be well aware of what's going on concerning the new console. I'm sorry (not really) if some people here can't handle a bit of information that isn't specifically for this forum bubble. Hopefully I didn't burst anyone's for them.

That's why I'm choosing to go with RGB/VGA on my Sophia 2. I first discovered this issue with a cheap Chinese video to HDMI converter. It actually works well with PAL, since PAL Atari screen is letter-boxed compared to NTSC, except when you want to use graphics programs or games that use over-scan, then it sucks. And NTSC Atari's are just all-around terrible with aspect ratio through DVI/HDMI. But it's just a pet-peeve of mine when video or graphics are out of their native ratio either squeezing or squishing the image.

Agreed. But this is the only forum I hang out at anyway.

I know this isn't really the right forum, but what is? Will one even ever exist for this? The new Atari VCS. That is, people seem to be attempting to sell them off while they are still hot, before they lose their value...I believe these are all the people who pre-ordered, I don't think "full manufacture and distribution" happens until March or something was the last I heard...if they survive long enough to even get to a full roll-out. The wait is over, let my wait begin...I'll be keeping my eyes peeled and watching for those prices to plummet of the next year or two and get in on them at bargain-bin level before they have a price resurgence i years to come for collect-ablity.... This isn't even all the auctions, just a sampling... https://www.ebay.com/itm/2020-Atari...-Joystick-Modern-Control-IN-HAND/233837561329 https://www.ebay.com/itm/2020-Atari-VCS-Collector-s-Edition-Includes-Classic-Joystick/124506116079 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Atari-VCS-...w-Modern-Controller-and-Joystick/174580896857 https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-2020-A...assic-Joystick-Modern-Controller/233842169608 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Atari-Blac...on-w-Classic-Joystick-Controller/324425538259 https://www.ebay.com/itm/2020-Atari...-Joystick-Modern-Control-IN-HAND/264986345112 https://www.ebay.com/itm/2020-Atari-VCS-Collector-s-Edition-W-Joystick-IN-HAND/264988469938 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Atari-VCS-...ition-W-Classic-Joystick-In-Hand/164616831407 https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-2020-A...ion-Bundle-4-Controllers-IN-HAND/293935787738

I have a 600XL and 1200XL with keys that look similar those, they aren't compatible though as you can see by the missing ones. Those missing ones are replacing broken and missing ones from the 1200XL that has the same looking keys, except in their case they are shiny. I forced compatibility by essentially "putting a square peg into a round hole" to fix my 1200XL keyboard. Eventually I'll clear-coat them so they match better, but this 1200XL is still in the midst of restoration. It seems to me I have seen an 800 with that type of keyboard before at some point in my life.

IIRC, it was a year or two ago and the Chelco family was in litigation and needed proof that they made computers for Atari. So many people making things is what happens when you are in price wars with competitors and are constantly looking for the lowest cost of manufacturing. They saved a few pennies on every computer when they started melting tabs instead of using screws, in both the case production (less plastic, simpler mold design) and not needing to use the screws too.

This would probably help hold them in place better while removing and inserting cartridges, so you aren't aligning them every time they are touched, which is an issue if you don't hold the stand at the same time. Of course some rubber feet on the bottom would probably work as well or better. I'll have to pick up some thin ones and try it.

If a retro-brite doesn't work for you, I can recommend a paint for the XL "white" that comes so close to the original "brand new" XL "white" that one is hard pressed to see a difference at all. I first got it because after I installed a PBI port in my 1200XL, I had to hide the body work. I've since used it in the restoration of an 800XL and another 1200XL and to match some poor physical condition third-party peripherals and Atari/third-party controllers to my XL system and as well as my own custom cases, and finally, an entire desk installation I did in a room matching the dark brown/white/silver styling of the XL line. In fact, I can also show the paint I use to match the XL brown, though it's not something I've had to use on original XL brown plastic, only on other non-Atari XL-painted stuff. Rust-Oleum Painter's touch: Dark Walnut and Heirloom White in Satin, then I use a matte clear coat (same brand and type) and the same sheen of the original plastic and texturing is retained.

I liked your post. I was going to do a sad or confused as per your SV 2.1 issues, but then you might think I'm frowning on a UAV, which I'm not. I still use the SV 2,1 S-video out to the Ambery VGA converter and love it. I changed out a resister in my 800's luma circuit which gives me nearly the same quality out as the 1200XL, but most notably the colors aren't as rich. So I'm about to install the Sophia 2 in it, and use RGB out, and if I ever need it to be VGA, I have another RGBtoVGA Ambery converter which works wonderful with my Jaguar and Genesis. Anyway, I'm glad you sorted it with a UAV. Once my Sophia 2 is installed, I'll compare the final output quality between both of my computers and post pictures.