Gunstar

@tmpI'll calibrate the e-steps, thanks, but yes, I have been making sure that the nozzle diameter (0.4mm) does match the setting in the slicer, as well as 1.75mm filament size. But I'll double-check that I didn't forget that on the cart holder settings this time (this was never checked in my first print out of the tool tray though, it was after it that I started learning the slicer settings instead of just loading an STL, and then sending the gcode to the printer) Thanks for the tip! Below are the current basic and advanced settings in the Creality Slicer that I'm printing with. Please let me know if anything is obviously "out of whack" or needs tweaking in these settings.

So, after a couple of months of owning my Ender3, I've got the basics down of using a slicer and setting the printer up right. I've mostly printed upgrades for the printer so far, including fan guard/vents for the CPU and PSU, a filament feed knob for the extruder, shock/sound absorbing feet for the printer base, a tool tray and guides for the filament. I'm currently printing my first model that is not a printer upgrade, which, of course, in keeping with the thread, a double-wide cartridge holder. Though my intention is to use it as an Atari cassette holder. My first printing beyond the test dog figurine that was on the SD card that came with the printer, was the tool tray for the Ender3. Which turned out o.k., but I just used the default settings of the slicer/STL file without looking, and it turned out the quality and consistency of a disposable carton you might by blue berries in at the grocer! I then looked at the slicer settings and realized it was set for only 20% fill rate. I want printed models that last and feel as solid as injection moldings, so I make sure that all my model printings are set at 100% fill now, which is much, much better and sturdier. Though I think I either still need to tweak setting for my particular printer for better printing, or switch to another filament like ABS, as I'm still not 100% satisfied of the "feel" and print quality I'm getting. I'm also having an issue with side-wall layers coming loose from the interior fill (as pictured below with tool-tray printout). When I noticed it happening on the cartridge stand, I started sitting there and applying slight pressure to the side wall that was currently being printed on for a couple of layers and this allowed the side-wall "layer" or "skin" to get re-attached, and I did this several times throughout the printing cycle. But it left obvious "water line" marks at different heights where I pressured those layers during printing, but at least the side-walls are attached better than they would have been. Is this a print-structure setting issue? Or a proper heat level issue? Maybe a print speed issue? Or maybe it's just the PLA plastic and I might find I prefer ABS instead? I'm only choosing between these two filaments for now, as they are the only plastic types that my Ender3 has pre-heat controls for on the menu system, so I'm not sure how other types of plastic filament might work with it or not. The cartridge stand is salvageable and will be fine, as I'll finish it with some wood-putty or J.B. Weld or something for areas of the model with "holidays" (as it's called in the painting business in patches of missing paint or too thin a coating) before I lightly sand and paint it. I set this cartridge stand printing for an extruder temp of 205, and bed temp of 60, 100% fill rate and 50% print speed to attempt a better quality print than 100% print speed (which hasn't seemed to make much difference in the print quality), but one MUST be willing to have patience, as the print time, so far, with 81% complete, is 3 days 23.52 hours so far!

IIRC, Sega Master System controllers also work with Atari 8-bit like Genesis controllers. But as was said, the 7800 joy pad controller is pretty good, very much the same size and feel of NES or SMS controllers, but it comes with a removable thumb stick attachment they don't have, which is nice for the best of both worlds (joystick and pad) for games that play better with or without it. How ever 7800 game pads have become quite expensive. I myself have a Genesis 3-button that I've used for years with my Atari 8-bit, ST, 2600 and 7800 (one button) but I recently did the Joy2B+ mod to it and now have all three working buttons, though only the hacked Star Trek SOS game uses all three so far, as far as I know.

If I knew the country more, I would have renamed the original with a local name or something, but I just stuck with the name of the original image I pulled from the net which is 'Switzerland.' Sorry the entire nation, and your house, is not in the image! Do you happen to recognize where this is? Maybe the building with a tower is a well known landmark of the area? I'd like to know...

Switzerland. 72 colors. Switzerland.xex

4.78V is exactly what I show on my Fujinet page as well, always has been, and I have my Fujinet powered with an external 5V USB PSU. There was a discussion about low voltage readings off of the Fujinet web config site in another thread in this sub-forum. I remember @DrVenkman and/or @_The Doctor__ talking about it being too low a reading, for me and for someone else who started the conversation who's reading was even lower, IIRC 4.75V. And it was suggested I test my line voltages, so I did. I've tested the +5V off of the SIO, controller port and the PBI I installed; though I was unaware that the Incognito supplied +5V to pin 47/48, so I connected +5V from the mother board during installation. But they all read a rock steady 4.89V from OEM "universal" 31VA PSU. Slightly lower than I'd like, but I've never had an issue so far. I've half a dozen 31VA universal PSU's for my Atari drives and 800/1200Xl, so I may see if I can find one with a slightly higher voltage output and swap them. I haven't tried putting a voltmeter to my Fujinet yet, EDIT: Actually, I just checked my Fujinet config page and it's shows a voltage of 4.757 now! Which, IIRC, is exactly the voltage another user was getting on his. My real voltage from the SIO is still showing 4.89V.

Well, now I have to ask, as I've never seen it before. Can you or someone point me to an archive site that has "Donkey Kong (Hi Res)?"

I was just looking through everyone's posted pictures again, taking in the details more, and I noticed the nice Fuji you have on your SDrive-max. I have one just like it to put in the exact same spot on my SDrive-max, but I have the XL-style 3D printed case. I already put the same Fuji's on my 1050 drive, that weren't on them yet the pictures I posted. Here are my 1050's now, after Fuji badges and some detail enhancements like silver paint on the molded text of the Power switches too. I also gave my 1030 a Fuji with the text 'NET' under it standing for a 'Fujinet', which will be installed into the 1030 very soon. I have a different Atari Fuji badge on my 1200XL, and the same on my 1010 and 1020. The one thing I never liked about the XL lines design was a lack of Fuji symbols on everything!

Very nice @gollumer , Nice 1200XL. I had a Mega STe like I see you have there about 15 years ago a friend gave me. It worked fine but he'd lost the keyboard, so I took a non-function 520ST and rigged it's keyboard (still intact in the ST case) up to the Mega STe keyboard port and it worked! The ST computer would be powered to give the keyboard power, but it didn't effect the Mega STe at all. But I sold it off to someone who had a working keyboard, but non-working Mega STe. I had a few other 1040STf's and 1040STe's too, but I lost them with many other things when a storage locker I was renting was robbed a few years back. I am a big 1200XL fan, it's upgraded including a PBI port I installed and I use a Syscheck plugged into it for extended ram. etc. I really love your big framed poster(?) of what seems to be, from my research, the only print-ad ever done for the 1200XL on it's own. I have the same ad, but mine is printed on a metal sign plate that I have screwed to the wall behind my 1200XL. Here is a better picture of it below. My big poster that will eventually be framed can of course be easily seen in my other picture. A big poster of Omnitrend's Universe.

I feel like the souls of Atari and Commodore swapped company bodies in '84/85 when Jay Miner's Amiga went to Commodore and Tramiel and the engineers he brought with him were the soul of Commodore coming to Atari with the ST line. But if it weren't for Jack's continuance of the A8 in the XE, I never would have bought an Atari 8-bit and would have missed out on the Atari legend altogether, and never would have eventually aquired the older, better quality machines in the 800 and 1200XL that I love and use to this day. So I'm glad Jack kept the 8-bit line on life-support long enough for me to discover the brilliance of Atari 8-bits when all I was interested in the time was the cheapest 6502, 128K computer I could get. The 130XE fit the bill and my computing life and life in general was changed forever. So as much as I came to hate the Tramiels and Atari Corp., I still owe my life-long love-affair and hobby to them. I knew of the 400/800 years before, but the price was to high for me, as with all others at the time, except the Timex/Sinclair 1000 I started with. And I really never knew of the XL line until I went to by my 130XE. I was saving up for either a Commodore 128 or an Apple IIc at the time.

This is the one I had in my archives, I don't know if it's the latest version or not. ARD_WIP_rel3.atr

I will tell you this; that question would either take an entire dissertation for me to properly explain to you, or it can be summed up in one word, the one word that explains why we are all even here in the first place.

I do believe that's about the same time the band Van Halen died as well if you look at it that way, then also, Atari died when Nolan left, not in '84.

If you have to ask at all, you would never understand, so I won't bother telling you.

I have an R.D. eprom burner too that I need a 3D case printed for, and I forgot that @Dropcheck has STL's on her site. I bought the burner several years ago and had long forgotten with my recent 3D printer ownership. Thanks for reminding me! And thank you Dropcheck for posting an STL. Now I don't have to design my own as planned.

So, the original reason I ever wanted more than two floppy disk drives in the first place (though I have many other reasons since) was because AR: The Dungeon allowed the use of 4 floppy drives (and also up to 128K memory). Now this isn't the first time I've used 4 real floppy drives with AR in recent years, and it's not the first time I've used a combination of real and virtual drives to play AR with all four. But it is the first time for me, and maybe anybody, to use Fujinet with one of the AR disks mounted, and loading from thousands of miles away off a Fujinet TNFS server, the image mounted on D4: and being loaded from that distance to my computer. Drives 1-3 are real disk drives, and I am loading the official commercial disk on the real disk one, and back-ups, made with ARD, of all other disks and then of course Disk 3 side 2 is coming from Fujinet. Now I could be doing the same thing off my SD card on Fujinet, but the idea of using a TNFS server from another part of the world is too cool not to use. I still have my original commercial release of the game and am still using the original maps, manual and guide. I am able to use the full 128K ARD looks for as well with the Incognito in XL/XE extended memory mode. I only need to swap in the character disk for loading and saving, and then disk 2, side 1 into drive one, as disk 1 side 1 isn't used again until character saving time. Playing with no disks swaps after that, with disk 2, side 1 and disk 2, side 2 in drives 1 and 2, and disk 3, side 1 in drive 3, and disk 3 side 2 ATR mounted on Fujinet. The boot process is to leave drive 1 off and allow Fujinet config to boot off of the Fujinet, mount the disk image from the TNFS server in D4:, then turn on the real Drive 1, and hit OPTION for Fujinet mount and boot, and the game starts loading from floppy drive 1 as normal and recognizes 128K and 4 disk drives. Of course you can use all Fujinet virtual drives and have it all at high-speed SIO too, from another part of the world, if you want to, or any combination of real and virtual drives you want. Fujinet D4: is set for HS SIO, and that disk is the most accessed by the game, the encounters/creatures data disk. So that really helps speed along the game as well as having more of the game in extended ram, including many of the encounters for instant load. And of course this can all be done with SIO2PC or SIO2BT too, but with Fujinet you aren't tethered to anything but Wi-fi or via BT to any device you want. Using all AR:The Dungeon's facilities, the world wide web, and old school maps (the level one map actually looks like a real old, tattered, well used map out of a pirate or fantasy movie as my brother and I have used it so much over the years. I just reinforced it with packing tape on the backside as it was truly in tatters when I pulled it out of the archives. It's still my favorite RPG series of all time, even though I'm a big Elder Scrolls fan too and a big fan of many other classic and more modern RPG's.

I'm currently still using (until I decide to have another go with my replacement Sophia 2) S-video out I installed underneath my 800, but it's feeding directly from the monitor port, so I don't know how much difference it makes, but I've not noticed any video noise beyond the minute amount I've always gotten, which is just the usual faint vertical lines, which depend on the color(s) on screen for me to notice them at all. Of course I am power via USB since it is the 800. But also I do feed my S-video through a VGA converter too, a very good one which I'm sure filters some noise too.

Me too. As for the SIP on the 24-pin rom sockets, that is what I did as well instead of desoldering the originals and taking the chance of lifting pads or traces and heat damage. I just wish I'd thought of doing it to the jumpers as well!

I still have a 2600, and I say yes, for at least one reason: SOLARIS. Though I would love to see an updated version of this game made for the Atari 8-bits. Otherwise it's just a bit too primitive for me, and most of my classic gaming is on the Atari 8-bit. I do plan on getting a C64 system soon though too. Of course a 7800 might be a better idea, as it can play 2600 SOLARIS plus it has some incredible titles of it's own as good or better than the C64 and A8 versions, and some exclusives.

So far though, no respondents use real media "exclusively" though...

@Stephen Me too, CP/M and ABBUC on real floppies!

Exclusively, no. But I'd say I still use not only real floppies, but tapes as well (with turbo-upgraded 1010) about 80% of the time, like Nezgar said, it's the nostalgia factor as I've always loved to use hardware and as much variety of hardware as I can muster. I have 3 real drives and 1 cassette for BOTH my daily driver computers that get used equally, set up for different stuff. So that's 6 floppy drives and 2 cassette drives total. New cassettes are still manufactured for sure, I order direct from the manufacturer(s); there's a cassette resurgence these days just like other vintage media like LP's. So far I haven't had an issue getting new floppy disks either, though I've really no idea if they are new manufacture or NOS, I suspect the latter, as not all disks I buy work, but most work fine (generic floppies, which is why I don't know if they are new or not, but not used). My last purchase of floppies was about a year ago, I got 20 floppies and one or two of them didn't format as I recall, or one side did, but not the other (I always make them into "flippies" for the full 180-360K per disk). I've also got about 100 old floppies not yet gone through to see if they are good, but the last hundred I did go through about 75% were still good on at least one side. Of course all my real drives except the 410 are upgraded with Happy or Indus sram upgrades or Rambit/T2K for the 1010, for maximum speed and capacity. I have very few original commercial disks left though, but that's because most were lost in a move back in the 90's. I do have about a dozen original release games that I've started collecting again from eBay and elsewhere too, both good used and NOS for my collection. Most of my floppies are .ATR's written back to floppies with 10502PC and Prosystem (part of APE software on the PC). I have started a decent collection of original cassettes though, mostly English ones for collecting, but I do still plan to buy quite a few from @Duddie and Retronics, as well as a few of their real floppy releases too. Of course I'm an avid user of SDX, but when I use it, it's 99% CF/SD APT partitions. However I do still use a boot floppy on D1: for my SDX config.sys so I don't have to re-flash my SDX's and have several different boot disks for different configurations I use for different stuff. I do have MyIDE II, Incognito Side, Fujinet SD, The!Cart and SDrive-max's I use the other 20% of the time, Because I do love new hardware for my 8-bits almost as much as legacy hardware. I just love using all kinds of new and old hardware tech. And it goes beyond the 8-bits into consoles, and audio/video equipment too, new and old.

Thank you, I did not know this... I knew that you could get the list shown there in alphabetical order and find software on-line that way, but I assumed any downloads were still multi-title .ATR's or "download all" was just a .zip of all the .ATR's. I already have that .zip in my archives, I just never bothered to open it and see it was .xex's. I merely downloaded it to go through and sort out "some day," but have the archive on hand for posterity as you never know when a web site will just disappear like some other Atari software archive sites that have gone away over the years.

Would that not be totally frickin' awesome? But after browsing through my ChromaCAD manuals, with my '91 versions and the lists of at-the-time available ChromaCAD software, it seems I'm missing only the Model Builder Cylindrical Coordinates disk set and various model disks filled with pre-made models. Though software including: General Utilities (just for copying and moving model files), TIFF file maker turning them into TIFF images for use elsewhere (but not model format conversions), model sculpture program (for reworking existing models) and high-res printer driver software were all still "on the drawing board" as of the '91 revisions, and if they were the latest revisions, then we are SOL. So, from my information, no conversion programs for more standardized CAD file formats was ever released and I'm not sure if the stuff mentioned above was ever released either. I thought I'd read somewhere though that there were later revisions than the '91 ones? Like '93 editions or something? But if there were they seem to still be "lost" to the Atari internet archives. So, unfortunately, if I have the latest revisions, then a converter program would still need to be written by someone, and probably out of the question without source code anyway. It would be a perfect CAD system on the Atari for using with a 3D printer though, if a conversion program was available.

I may just get my own TNFS server running, once I have a second and third Fujinet, right now I only have one. But of course I already have all my software (which itself is pretty similar to what's out there on the TNFS servers) on CF or SD cards (including Fujinet) for both my currently working Atari 8-bits, and my Incognito 800 with Fujinet has CF and SD, but that is ok since I can only use either Side loader or Fujinet SD at one time. So a personal, private TNFS server is sort of pointless since it's all on the Fujinet SD card already, so for all intents and purposes it is my own private server in that slot, and will be the same for every Fujinet I eventually have; but I may eventually do a public one. The only reason I use any TNFS server atm is because they are more organized than my CF/SD cards...I'm working on getting them organized, at which time a public TNFS would be practical, but probably also pretty redundant like the rest. I may end up with just a lot of empty server slots in the long run, since the vast majority of software archives will be on my Fujinet SD. There's not much point in 8 slots that are pretty much redundant, now is there? Atari8.us has also been working every time I tried it. Though I'll add your server to the list again since in your case it was a power-outage but otherwise it'll be up most of the time. As already stated, that's the issue with many of the current TNFS servers, they are redundant with homesoft collections and most other things, though they all tend to have a couple folders with different stuff than other servers, but mostly redundant. I'm hoping to find one or two servers to swap out with one or two of the current ones I use, in hopes of less redundancy. But I suppose in this day and age when pretty much all Atari software is available on-line for download, like the homesoft collection, this is unavoidable really since by now most of us have built up quite a similar library from downloads over the years, and mostly what I don't already have is because I'm not interested in bothering with software I'll never use. But that's why I started the thread and want to compile a list of all TNFS Atari servers, then I can check them all out and only keep those with more diversity permanently in slots. Maybe there isn't enough diversity for this though, but a full list of servers to check out might reveal some with files others don't have. I actually, even though I have the full archive myself too, don't even care for the homesoft collection because it's all multiple random games on hundreds of ATR's and finding the piece of software one wants is then a major pain in the ass, having to have a list to look through to find out what's on what disk/.atr. If it were more organized alphabetically or by genre I'd probably like it. I prefer to download individual software on their own .ATR's or .XEX files for my HDD partitions. Multi-load .ATR's were great back when floppy disk storage was at a premium, but with FAT loaders and APT partitions it's just a pain in the ass to find anything that way these days; I prefer having things in alphabetical order in folders by genre, which is what I'm working on sorting with my own archives right now.