Gunstar

I can see why; when I first clicked on this topic I was thinking "what is this about then" with my mind going straight to money from the thread title. But for me it's because I'm not used to seeing $700 as a I use MyIDE II Fat32 a lot and I usually have it set at $600. I didn't even remember that $700 was a starting address for loaders. If the title was 'XEX starting at $600' I'd have caught on to the subject matter instantly.

Good idea @_The Doctor__, I never thought of that for my CA-2001! And I'm surprised I didn't as I usually think of that type of stuff. I've been collecting Infocom games from other computers and just removing the stickers for the other brands at the bottom and writing Atari .ATX's on their floppies, because those versions sell for a fraction of what the Atari ones are going for...

I love the Indus GT's too. I have 2 of them and a CA-2001 clone, though the CA-2001 isn't nearly as elegant as the GT's and came with a different face-plate that doesn't use a plexiglass cover unfortunately. I was looking for a GT front cover to swap on it for a while. But it was in rough shape so I just ended up painting it to match my XL system. The GT's are good cosmetically and will stay their elegant original selves. I just got 3 sram upgrades for all of them I'm about to install. I can't wait until I have them all running in Super Synchromesh mode at speeds faster than my Warp Speed 1050's. Here is a picture of my GT's for you @777ismyname . I guess I need to re-clean their covers, I see streaking from wiping them the last time in the photo...I almost want to paint my 800 black to match them, but I'd never do that to an 800 unless it was one with a smashed case that needed rebuilding and body work done so it would have to be painted.

Ditto on what @DrVenkman and @skr said. I've got 3 1200XL's all of which have needed help out of their comas at one point or another. And the older these machines get, the more maintenance they need to keep them going. My every day 1200XL I've had to strip back down to stock, trouble-shoot, get working and re-install a dozen upgrades (or change them out with new ones) 3 times in the past 15 years. It's all part of the hobby to me and I enjoy doing it as much as using them.

Too true, I also have a Turbo-Freezer, but since I already have either the Syscheck 2 or Incognito on both my machines I can't activate Turbo Freezer's 512K since they use the same memory addresses from what I understand, Am I wrong about this? I still have a lot to learn about all these upgrades. Can I use both Incognito extended ram and Turbo Freezer extended ram at the same time somehow? That's the nice thing about having the sram on MyIDE II cart since it can be used along with Port B upgrades. I also have The!Cart which has the 512K sram option too, IIRC. But if we are talking total ram, even that which clashes, then my 800 has 1598K!

LOL! I voted 1MB due to my Incognito, but since you put it that way, my 1200XL also has 1088K total, including 512K sram from Syscheck 2 and 512K sram that's also accessible to use as extended ram on the MyIDE II I also use with it. Different memory locations are used, so it is all accessible at the same time.

I guess not, since there is now Sophia 2 with new GTIA graphic modes as well. But I guess it depends what you think you've learned from VBXE. I still intend to have both myself, VBXE for my XL and Sophia 2 for my 800 (which I alread got and installed, but it had to be returned and I'm waiting on a replacement still). I'll get plenty of use out of the new graphic modes on both, myself, regardless of lack of support for them from others.

Exactly! I only use a PC at all because for somethings I have too, like Internet browsing (I hate using my phone for Internet-only used when I don't have another way) and when I need to use the PC for flashing Atari stuff that won't flash with Uflash on my Atari. I own a Fujinet but it's PDF to PC and then to printer isn't the reason I bought one and as you say, isn't as convenient as printer directly from my Atari, so I still don't care about it. I bought the Fujinet for wi-fi for using the R: handler for Platoterm and other terminals for BBS browsing, and for multi-player online gaming like 8-bit Slicks. I make use of the SD card and virtual drives to download from TNFS servers (which replaces my need for SIO2PC and downloading from archival software sites on my PC web browser) and eventually either transferred to real floppy disks or my CF cards for Incognito Side loader or MyIDE II. I'll make use of Bluetooth eventually since it's there, but none of it's virtual facilities for disk drives(except to transfer to real drives), printers, cassettes, etc. are of any use to me, because I already have the all those for real. I might use them if I didn't have the real devices, but I do, and I like to use the real Atari hardware whenever I can. I too am working on getting back to totally PC free Atari use, and Fujinet was one way to lose the tether of SIO2PC and virtual software on the PC. unfortunately, even Fujinet requires the PC for your Fujinet device page so you can adjust settings of devices and SIO speed, etc., and to flash new firmware. I wish I could do this stuff too on my Atari, but I can pretty much set and forget for the most part with the Fujinet web page. Hell, I've been using an SIO2PC and APE on my PC for 25 years and never once have I used it's printer facilities, even though I could get deskjet quality prints that way, I just never have wanted to use a PC as a middle man for my printouts either, and have always had the dot-matrix for that. As soon as I build a Fujinet into my 1030 modem, I can totally get rid of SIO2PC and PC software for both my Atari's and be about 98% PC free for my Atari's. And move that damn PC out of my Atari work space into another room and still have access to it, if need be, through Bluetooth. In fact, I've decided to buy one of the Samsung laser printers with Centronics port for my Atari now, so I can have better than dot-matirix printout, which is still exactly what you get with Fujinet anyway ; you pick from a choice of ancient dot-matrix virtual printers to make the PDF so when it comes out of your PC deskjet is still looks like a dot-matrix printout. Why bother when I can get a dot-matrix print out directly from my Atari and it's dot-matrix printer? I like using my dot-matrix because I like using vintage hardware, I have fun with that noisy old thing! But sometimes I would like a better quality printout, directly from my Atari, with no PC involved. I'll keep the dot-matrix hooked up to my 1200XL and get the laser printer for my 800. To me, the boring old PC is a tool I use when I have too, but I hate using it. Just like I have tools for working my vehicles even though I hate working on vehicles and only do so when I have too (I can fix them myself for a fraction of the cost of a mechanic so I do). The Atari is fun for me to use, and makes non-fun things like bills, record keeping and word processing less of a chore because I get to use my Atari. So I do that stuff on it instead of a PC too. Also for security purposes.

If you are talking about my LWP files, I have been using SIO2PC with APE and just save the file to the APE virtual drive that is mirror mounted, no need to go through all the trouble of .ATR and Altirra run around. Then I access the file from the folder I saved it to with mirror mount on APE. But now, I use Fujinet and save the file to a virtual drive on it which is saved on the micro SD card, which I then pull from Fujinet and insert in my PC. Of course with Fujinet I could also transfer it to the PC via bluetooth too, or, with my 800 with Incognito I can use PClink too, I think, I haven't really bothered with BT or Incognito PC-link yet, as it's simple enough for me to just use the SD card with Fujinet or on my 1200XL use SIO2PC with APE. It just depends which Atari I choose to use with TLW processor on a given day.

There is a link in post #22 on the first page of this thread that @Fred_M made with a link to another P.A.M thread where he posted photos of the entire manual/reference guide and more for all three games so you can know the moves and game play, etc.

It's a tough game, but not impossible. I've played it for an hour hear or there over the last couple of years, adding up to probably a full day worth of play, and I have advanced through about half the levels in the two platform games PAM and The Dream. Barroom brawl is a combination of boxing and WWF wrestling, throwing punches and wrestling moves and also throwing bottles and chairs, etc., the bar is like a fighting ring fill with obstacles. You just have to take the time to learn all the controls and once you do it is a blast. But as hard as it is, and taking me probably a dozen attempts at least to pass each new level I reach (the previous ones get easier to get through again the next game session) , the great animation and uniqueness of the games always keeps me coming back for more, and "just one more try" to get past that next level. Keep in mind that you do not have several different starting levels to choose from, you have 3 different games to choose from and you start on level one of each game. PAM and The Dream can be thought of as the original and the sequel, they were just released at the same time, and Barroom Brawl is a totally different game, you just happen to be the same lead character in all three.

Just to let people know, I received my order from tf_hh today too. Sram chargers for my 3 Indus GT drives, sent in mid December.

So let me make sure I understand what I am seeing here; the front side of the disk is black with a large or possibly full-doverage black label and the backside of the floppy has a full-cover art label design? Or am I just looking at a full-cover sleeve? (which wouldn't make sense to have the holes still exposing the magnetic disk, so probably my first guess?)

Oh, my, God. I seen even worse before though in listings. I don't know what anyone here knows about CED video disks, but they are like LP's but a much finer needle is used to play them and much finer grooves, so much so that they have rainbow coloring like a lazer disc in the light, And this is true of standard LP's too, but in the case of CED's the damage is instantaneous due to the size and fragility of the grooves. That is to stack them up on their sides, It crushes the grooves and instantly ruins the disc inside. They come in plastic caddies that look like giant 3.5" floppy discs, which will protect them if just a few are laid upon one another, but I can't tell you how many auctions on eBay I've seen with photos of the things stack 2 feet high on their sides. Well, I can tell you after the first half dozen at the top, all the rest wore damaged to one extent or another the low they are in the stack, and anything 6 inches or more down is completely destroyed and will destroy your needle if yo try playing them! I wrote, at the time, to several of these sellers, and their reply was generally "I do keep them upright normally, they were just stacked like that for a minute for the photo!" But I would remind them, as I told them in the first message; one second, one minute, one hour, they are crushed by the wait instantly.

I've gotten creative with original software I collect sometimes. For example, I collect Infocom games of late. I didn't really get into text adventures back in the day and I only ever owned and played Wishbringer and The Incredible Spiderman and The Pawn. Anyway, I enjoy them now and have started collecting the Infocom titles, but prices for Atari versions, on average, run MUCH higher for complete used copies (I don't need new, just in good condition) than for other computer formats. So I started buying IBM versions for 1/4 the cost, just removing the IBM version sticker at the bottom and reformating and re-writing Atari .ATX's to the IBM floppy disks, and I have the complete, original boxed Infocom games without paying for the usual Atari price. So far I have Zork I, The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy and The Lurking Horror. Only the last one is an Atari original. I don't mind, with things as rare as Pam, of just making my own DIY reprint of all the packaging and documentation if source images are available. My collecting isn't about value, it's not an investment per-se (some is default because it is original), I never plan to sell, just own and enjoy. It's about owning and experiencing the real thing when possible, but a reprint is fine if there is no other way, just for the physical experience and display. Of course I haven't actually made and fake reprint boxes or manuals, etc. yet, but I'd do up my own for P.A.M if there was a good source of images to copy and use.

Just greedy people hoping that the sucker born every minute will stumble onto their listings...

And now that you found where, and I never would have because my searches were all "diamond" inclusive and not his name, I remember downloading that file and it's probably on my computer, again, using the wrong search word! But I guess it was @bob1200xl that posted them here, instead of Alan Reeve. I did have a conversation with Alan on another forum and thread a few years back.

I remember Alan posted a bunch of Diamond stuff here a few years back when that long thread was on-going and people questioning the existance of 3.0. Which I was one of the few that actually did own back in the early 90's, The cartridge long lost, but the 2.0 and 3.0 manuals are still in my possession. 3.0 was only sold by direct mail-order from Alan and he would give you the choice to send the 2.0 cart in for an upgrade, or just send out the 3.0 eprom and new manuals to you. I chose the latter. Anyway, I think he posted the source code too, back then, but I guess it doesn't hurt to get it from another source just in case, for posterity. and you never know if something new might come to light, like some previously forgot desk accessories or something. I know I have some Diamond stuff somewhere on my PC that I downloaded from that thread. Well, I went and did a search and found the Diamond GOS 3.0 thread which has it for download, but I didn't see any posts or uploads by Alan Reeve. I think I might be remembering another thread on another Atari forum. But at some point he released it all into the public domain within the past few years, maybe it's archived online somewhere? Maybe the source code hasn't been uploaded and archived yet... I found all I had for Diamond 3.0 that I'd downloaded from where ever, it includes development stuff too, but I don't think any of this stuff is source code. And another .zip that contains, I think, all versions of Diamond GOS. posted below. Diamond GOS 3.0.zip DIAMOND.zip

My first printing seems to be going very well. This is about 6 hours into it and it looks about 3/4 finished.

Well, I finally got around to finishing leveling my printer bed and the Y axis arm and am currently printing my very first object. It is just a test puppy figurine that came on the SD card with the printer. If successful I'll start printing Atari stuff soon, but first a few upgrades for the printer. So far the printout is about a half-centimeter high and it is looking good so far...

I use a late 80's Panasonic KX-P2023 24-pin dot-matrix with my 1200XL (which of course has the resister fix spoken of) with Supra Corporations MicroPrint Centronics interface (the same as MPP's interface as Supra bought them out). It does require the resister fix as the interface uses +5V from the 1200XL. But the Panasonic is 100% Epson compatible which also means it's 100% compatible with virtually any Atari program that prints since Epson was the standard back then, and even Atari software developers made sure their software had drivers for Epsons. I haven't looked to see if there is a new ribbon out there that works with it, I have the original and an extra I picked up at a Goodwill that was dry, and I re-ink them myself. But that's a whole other topic I won't get into now, and though re-inking works fine, I'd rather be able to pick up new working ribbon cartridges than have to go through the trouble. But I don't trust old-stock since I have one already that was dry. I do have Fujinet, and while printing to PDF allows the classic dot-matrix look, I still use my Panasonic for my personal hard-copies of program listings. I still use a 1020 too, that I re-ink my own pens for as well, to use with CAD programs. There are a lot of great things about Fujinet including it's printer facilities, but I'd rather print to my vintage printers and writing I do for magazines and whatnot gets sent in rich text format converted from the Atari Last Word processor I use and sent via e-mail, not PDF. But I do use Fujinet to get the documents to my PC from the Atari now, nice and wireless without the need for software running on the PC like with SIO2PC and PC virtual drive software like APE or AspeQT. One of the many great features I love about Fujinet, even though it has a couple, like PDF printing that is great if you don't have a vintage Atari printer and want that look, but if you already have a vintage printer, I'd rather use it myself.

@Level42 said HUNDREDS (plural) anyway, not 100. Hundreds can even be used past the 1000 mark you know, @emkay, like 23 hundred or what ever, so as per the usual @emkay's "evaluation" of what someone else said is meaningless and pointless.

I have academic questions. This program has been out for years, but is still getting version numbers starting with 0.xx and I am wondering why the trigger isn't just pulled and call it 1.0? How much more is ever actually going to be added to make it to 1.0 otherwise? How long will that take? By my estimation at it making 0.22 now, that would be about the year 3000 when it makes it to 1.0, but unfortunately we'll all be long dead and Atari probably a footnote in some vague electronic history book by then, if at all. This isn't the only program that I see starting with a 0.x still after being out for decades but still updated once in a while to another 0.01 point added. It just doesn't make sense to me to have 0.xx except when still in beta testing, which I'd think was finished decades ago. So why do programmers sometimes still stick to a not quite version 1.0 forever?🤔

All I know is that I'm actually good at Checkered Flag on the Atari Jaguar, and if you can play that game with it's amount of frame-skipping and poor control, you can play any other racing game successfully, period.