missyrelm

Bought modded Gamecube. Still looking for Z64 or CD64.

We've now bought everything we are going to buy.

Just bought a model 490 CD-I, so I am not looking for that anymore. Got it for $71.00 on Ebay. YEAH!!!! I am *very* excited about it... Will have to wait for it to come in the mail. So, I have modified my original post to reflect that and updated to show what I am still looking for.

I have completely updated the original post to show what we have bought so far ans what we are still looking to buy. We're looking for controllers that will play both Guitar Hero and Rock Band. I know that the Kramer Striker and the Gibson SG are the two that do both. Do you have either of those?

WE HAVE BOUGHT EVERYTHING WE ARE GOING TO BUY Hi, My wife and I are looking to try some music games requiring special controllers. We aren’t looking for Collector quality or in box or any of that, so that we can save some money by buying used. That way if we don’t like any of the games we won’t lose quite as much money. ******************** Here is what we have already bought. ******************** 1)BOUGHT Used Beatmania II DX Controller for the PS2, Pending with AceJay on Bemanistyle 2)BOUGHT Taiko Drum Master controller and game from messicamouse on Bemanistyle 3)BOUGHT Jungle Beat with controller for Game Cube from messicamouse on Bemanistyle 4)BOUGHT Taiko Drum Master controller and game - a second one for co-op play! from Qube. 5)PENDING Rock Band Drums - Xbox 360 from Princess-Isabela on DigitPress 6)PENDING Rock Band Xbox 360 guitar controller from walrusmonger on DigitPress *********************** WE HAVE BOUGHT EVERYTHING WE ARE GOING TO BUY *********************** 1) Rock Band Drums – PS2 2) X-plorer Guitar Wired Controller for the Xbox 360, the one that plays GH1, GH2, and GH3. 3) Guitar Hero Kramer Striker Guitar for Ps2 (or Gibson SG). 4) A second Donkey Konga/Jungle Beat controller so we can play co-op. We will consider controllers for Drummania/Guitar Freaks, Samba De Amigo (any platform)and possibly Keyboardmania, if they are at good, used-quality prices, but it’s only the first four listed that we are going to buy for sure, so please keep that in mind We have excellent ratings on Ebay as buyers, please feel free to check them. Same userid as here. We will wait until sometime Sunday or so, then we will turn to Ebay for whatever we haven’t bought here. NOTE: This is on two other forums (DigitPress and Bemanistyle), I will edit promptly once I have bought something.

BUMP - No CD-I's?

That person also has a youtube video of the unit. I'm emailed them both at youtube and on craigslist with no response.....

Anyway, After a lot of discussion about getting this setup vs. a cd-attachment vs. waiting for the JagCF, my wife and I decided to go with this setup, but using a 3 ft cable. We just ordered day before yesterday, and are excited about the goodies coming in the mail! I hope we made the right choice One question, once I load a game onto the Jaguar, will it stay in the memory when the Jag is shut off, or will I need a really long electrical cord to get the Jag from the TV to the computer, so that I can bring it back to the TV without turning it off? It's necessary only if you have a JagCD and you want to play CD-based unencrypted demos/betas. Since the programs needed to create encrypted CDs (runnable on any JagCD) have been recovered, it's much less important now. If you don't want to modify your Jaguar, get Protector:SE. You'll get a CD bypass and a BJL loader in the same cartridge (not to mention, it's a good game as well). Another option, if you have a JagCD, is using Belboz's free downloadable BJL CD : http://hillsoftware.com/atari/index.html. If you're not scared of soldering, you can build the cable much more cheaply yourself. All you need is a VGA extension cable (one end of which will be discarded) and a male 25-pin SUBD. You can find a schematic on Matthias Domin's website : http://www.mdgames.de/jag_eng.htm. Additionally, 10 feet is really long. You may have problems getting the cable to work reliably, or at all. I wouldn't recommend using cables more than about 5 feet long for BJL. Yes, that's correct. (Lo_inp is Bastian Schick's original program I've modified to run under Windows XP). The Catnip cable was something I was working on some time ago. It was supposed to be both a "better" BJL cable (USB-based and more reliable) and a way to connect the upcoming JagCF board to your computer. The later feature has been integrated into the JagCF. The BJL part has been put on hold since I've concentrated my efforts on the JagCF for the moment. Lo_inp was indeed a "stopgap" initially.

I simplified the original post, when re-reading it, it came across too picky.

Hi, Just bought the CD-I that was the main purpose of this WTB, now looking for the rest. ls there anyone with a Xeno GC 2.0 or Viper Extreme Gamecube chip? I would like to send my Gamecube to someone who has one of these and get it installed. Still looking for a Z64 (or maybe a CD64).

Hi, I've read the old BJL articles out there, there's just a few things that I am still unclear on. This is even more confusing as I don't have the CD Player Attachment, my computer is XP, and I want to avoid using a Windows 95/98 computer just to program my Jaguar. My understanding is that I need the following: 1) A way to bypass the CD, either: a) Protector SE game from Songbird, $74.95 OR b) CD Bypass cart from B&C, $30.00 Any suggestions on which one to get? Is there any difference aside from the price and that one comes with the Protector SE game, and the other doesn’t? 2) Atari BJL adapter from More Than Games, $15.00 3) Cable to go from BJL adapter to computer, must be DB25 Male to DB25 Female cable a) 10 foot cable: IEEE 1284 , DB25 , M/F from Monoprice: $6.20 4) A copy of lo_inp. If I understand correctly, this is an updated version of BJL for XP computers that will allow me to transfer homebrew games from my XP computer to my Jaguar with the above hardware even though my computer is not Windows 95/98. http://www.jagware.org/index.php?showtopic...entry8665 So will this work with my setup? I just want to be sure before I start buying stuff! Notes: There are longer Male to DB25 Female cables: I was hoping to find a longer cable, but monoprice doesn’t have one and on other sites prices skyrocket to around $35.00 for a 15’ cable to around $50.00+ for a 20’ or 25’ cable! Also, there was something talked about called a “catnip cable” specifically for XP computers, but discussion stops around 2006, so I am assuming that this never happened. I am assuming that lo_inp reduced the need for this drastically. Thanks for any suggestions!

I'm guessing that the chances of someone being willing to sell a Jaguar Catnip cable is about zero, but I figure it never hurts to ask. My computer is XP only. I just want to be able to play homebrew on my Jaguar using one of the CD bypass carts from B&C or Protector SE from Songbird. I know about the Jaguar Atari BJL Adapter and More Than Games, but my understanding is that this won't work with XP. Thanks, Missyrelm

Bad news for me Well its better to find out now than after buying one, but its very dissapointing... Thanks for the help, you probably just saved me loads of money by explaining that...

Thanks for bringing up the question of whether or not this will work… Of course I don't want to do this if it won't work... My understanding from researching this heavily is that even when using a NTSC CD32, when it plays PAL games it will switch to the PAL signal after the starting screen, and that it will output 50hz with both composite and S-video, but that RGB would work on any TV that allows for RGB input. I got this from many sources, including the following Unless I am misinterpreting it, the Amiga FAQ at http://www.faqs.org/faqs/amiga/CD32-FAQ/part1/ says that the only way to avoid the 50/60hz problem even when using the “mouse NTSC/PAL changing trick” is to either use a TV that takes both 50 and 50hz or to mod a CD32 to output RGB… Am I misunderstanding this? Here’s the quote: “TVs/monitors connected to the CD32 through the French CD32's or SX-1's or CD32x's or TP9's (see diagram at end of FAQ) RGB connector will also work fine. TVs/monitors connected to the CD32 through the composite or S-Video outputs won't work though. The problem is that the PAL colour signal is still sent at the NTSC frequency.” My understanding is that using a NTSC CD32 will not fix this when playing PAL games, Here is a quote on the subject: Here is a quote from Akira on the English Amiga Board some years ago.. http://eab.abime.net/showthread.php?t=1761...t=cd32+ntsc+pal “It goes well beyond that, some games will just not run when facing NTSC timing. It's not a matter of having your TV displaying PAL as well... Besides, NTSC CD32s display 50Hz NTSC instead of real 50Hz PAL when playing in a "PAL mode". The color system is STIL NTSC. So you need a TV that supports 50Hz NTSC (not all of them do, I even had problems with professional projectors in demoparties) I know, I have an NTSC A1200 and it's quite a bit incompatile with loads of shit. I wouldn't purchase an NTSC CD32. It's not much extra money to get one from Europe. Let's keep in mind then you will need a TV that displays PAL or to conect the CD32 through RGB (needs modding)”.

Hi, My wife and I are trying to find someone to mod an Amiga CD32 to output RGB and are looking for suggestions as to who can/will do it. We am getting ready to buy an Amiga CD32, but our TV is NTSC, and only accepts 60hz signals. So, we are hoping to get around that by modding the CD32 to output RGB instead. Our Samsung TV’s specs say RGB input, and on the back it says “PC input”, which I am assuming is the RGB. My understanding is that as far as mods go, this is a pretty easy one, I just don’t know how to solder or read schematics, and don’t want to practice on a classic console. We have a good history of buying modded consoles and mods of consoles that I provide… I can provide a list of people I’ve done business with, and also we have an excellent rating on ebay as buyers. My understanding is that the mod is “just” taking an amiga rgb cable, cutting the db 23, then locate the RGB and video at the TP9 test port near the fmv connector, where there are pins where you can solder the cable. Thanks to anyone who can help! Here is the schematics from the Amiga CD32 FAQ http://www.faqs.org/faqs/amiga/CD32-FAQ/part2/ CD32 RGB signals... The RGB signals are available from a test port, TP9... | | | <--- Kickstart ROM .-. Desc Equiv pin #s | | | |o| | | | |o| | `--' .----. <--- Akiko |o| | | | |o| HSync 159 | | | : <--- TP9 |o| VSync 160 | `----' : |o| Red 163 and 164 | .. .--. |o| Green 165 and 166 `-------'`----------' | |o| Blue 167 and 168 ^ ^ `------- |o| CSync 157 | | |o| Ground 161 and 162 Expansion port Pin 182 `-' The RGB signals come from the D/A conversion unit and lead directly to the expansion port. These signals are, however, not amplified. In addition they are weakened by the S-Video output unit. As a result I (aim to) insert a 47 Ohm resistor to each colour signal connection. You may also reduce the load by interrupting the signal supply to the S-Video unit. Set pin 174 of the expansion port to GND to achieve that (174 --> u36 (4066) signal switches). The sync signals connected to the expansion port are unbuffered. As a result you may re-synchronize your Amiga by an external tact source. You schould at least buffer the CSync line; there is no external synchronisation possible on this pin. Hint: make use of an XOR gate chip. You may negate certain sync line(s) to adapt your Amiga to (old? :-( ) multiscan-monitors (the A4000 monitor adapter box will do the same; without the possibility of selected negation). Written by Klaus Hegemann, posted as part of 'CD32 expansion port info' by Anders Stenkvist in comp.sys.amiga.hardware, forwarded by Michael King.

There's been a lot of activity about this on the TI-99/4A yahoo group, in case anyones been wondering... I would say that whatever works for ColecoVision should work for this too, since it's the same chip.

I want to apologize for how obnoxious I made the title and content of my original post to this thread. It’s more than a little embarrassing. Not quite the first impression I was hoping to make. I didn’t want to get into this originally but at this point I feel the need to explain myself. I am *VERY* new to the scene here and did not understand how that was going to come across. The Subject line basically suggests that I would use a PC-Engine or Duo-R purely to play downloaded ROMS and even play CD images that might damage a perfectly good Duo-R instead of buying any of the original games. This is not the case. The truth was that I made that original post the same night I first even heard about Flash-Carts. I didn’t know that anything like that even existed. I got over-excited about it for about a day or two, and my original post shows this, but it is NOT reflective of how I really operate. That attitude lasted about a day and a half. Then I got over it and came back to my senses!  I am blessed to have a wife who likes to play retro games with me. We only play co-op games together with only a few exceptions, and we pick old systems based on what co-op games are made for it, namely the NES, SNES, Genesis, Saturn. But the PC-Engine would be a very nice addition indeed as while it doesn’t have the most co-op games, but the ones we know of, are pretty weird and interesting! We’ve never used an emulator ever, and while someday I might try one, neither of us are particularly interested in emulators. I downloaded some ROMS that same night I first heard of the carts and started this thread, but I’ve honestly never used them yet, partially out of laziness because I don’t want to take the time to learn about how to run an emulator but mostly for some reason we just don’t like the idea of an emulator. We just love the actual consoles way too much! We love the actual machines and just really don’t want to get started emulating the games… We’ve gotten pretty much all of the systems that have a variety of co-op games along with *only* real games we want except for the PC-Engine, because both the system and the games are out of our price league. But the PC-Engine games we’ve watched on Youtube have been her absolute favorite. So…. I was naturally excited about some of these $100-1000 games suddenly being within our reach, not to mention some of the few fan-subbed translations out there.. We do plan on getting a Duo-R we can’t afford and a Flash Cart that we can’t afford. But we don’t plan on using the Flash cart only. We will also get real games we can’t afford too! Ethics aside, we LOVE the cool HuCards and there’s nothing like the real thing! But honestly I don’t see how someone can get a feel for whether or not they want to spend $200-$1000 on a game without actually playing it for more than 5 minutes or even just for one day like some people claim to do. Or why we should pay over $100.00 for a 1-player game that we just want to check out for an hour or two out of curiousity when we only really play co-ops. I think it’s perfectly reasonable to for us to try out a game for a while, and if we like the way it plays co-op, then save up and buy it, and if we don’t like it, why buy it because then we won’t be playing the game anymore anyway. Try and find old games reviewed strictly on co-op play and you’ll see what we mean. Even the Youtube videos mostly only show 1-player play. And I guess we are just stubborn but we don’t want to mess with emulators, at least not yet anyway. . I also don’t really feel like its unethical to play a downloaded rom over a period of time while saving up the money to play the real game. I guess everyone has to draw that ethical line somewhere. Honestly, this way will allow us to buy WAY more games. Also influencing our friends to buy real games. It’s just easier to justify the cost of one of these expensive games when we know we are going to be actually playing it a lot. It’s already an ethical grey area because none of the money goes to anyone involved in the making and selling of the game, not any at all. Usually it all goes to some Ebay seller who wasn’t involved in the making or marketing of the game in any way. It’s just not the same as downloading roms for a Wii or Xbox 360, Ps3 or even a Xbox, Gamecube or PS2 because you can still rent games for those at the video store if you want to try them out. I find that unethical and the old mantra “if you can’t afford it then don’t get it” makes more sense for these systems. But for the old, unsupported systems this really stops making sense. As for the CD’s, I’d like to redirect this thread to them because there is *VERY* little information on how to be the easiest on a Duo-R or the many variations of the CD-player with CD-R’s. And I’ve read a LOT of threads on a lot of different forums on the subject. The problem seems to be wear and tear on old systems. Any CD causes wear and tear but it seems that CD-R’s seems to cause more wear and tear than other CD’s. It’s important because there are a LOT of very valid reasons to honestly Rip and backup PC-engine CD games that one owns. My wife and I are pack-rats, and I just know that we’d find a way to scratch or step-on or otherwise ruin really expensive CD games, so to save them from ourselves its better for us to play backups than to risk the originals that we plan on buying. Some of the original CD’s are cheaper on Ebay if they are scratched but still play. In this case wouldn’t the original CD possibly damage the player more than a back-up? Some people say never to play CD-R’s at all and to only play the original CD’s, but this is one extreme. On the other exetreme, other people say there’s no problems with CD-R’s at all because its they are old CD players and will give out about the same time as they would without playing CD-R’s. And still other people say that REAL back-ups won’t hurt the consoles but downloaded ROMs will because the code is different on the ROM’s and made for emulators. This makes partial sense but it would seem like any properly Ripped ROMs with TurborRip (is this the right name?) would work fine by this logic. So it would be good for people to know the safest way to back-up their expensive Pc-Engine CD’s and if some people use that knowledge to just pirate games, well that’s just something that can’t be helped. While there are some threads about the basics of making back-up copies of CD games for the Pc-Engine, a lot seem to not explain how to lessen the damage on the PC-Engine Cd’s or Duo-R’s old, sensitive CD-players. And what’s sad is I think that the people with this knowledge are leering of spreading it around because they don’t want to encourage piracy. I find this sad. In particular its hard to get the following information without just being told to “play the original disk”: 1) Is it really true that if you back-up your own CD games with Turbo-rip, there will be less stress on your CD player than if you download a ROM, whether the ROM was made with Turbo-rip or not? 2) If you intend to rip your CD-games and then to just play the back-ups to preserve the original games, would it be better to use the Super CDROM add-on or will a Duo-R be just fine? 3) Some people say just use really high quality cd’s like Taiyo-Yuden brand and use a high quality CD-burner and if possible burn at 1x or 2x. This doesn’t make any sense. Modern High-quality media doesn’t support low speeds like 1x or 2x, and neither do any modern high quality CD-burner. So that means either a) Buy a really old used CD burner and somehow find a way to drive it using your current operating system, and then buy old media to burn onto with. b) Try to figure out what modern CD burner plays nice with the PC-Engine CD’s, And what speeds work the best (I’ve seen some people say 4x, other people insist on 8x with a specific CD brand I can’t remember at the moment, others have said speeds even higher. There’s virtually nothing out there as to what are the best CD-burners for the delicate old CD-players like the PC-Engine’s CD players. c) Try to figure out what media to use. Is it better to just get High Quality CD’s like Taiyo-Yuden, or does it make more since to buy one of the super-high reflectivity CD’s like diamond silver? Assuming that there are loads of people who are honestly backing up their own games or are only downloading roms to decide what games to buy or to play English translations and such, it seems like we should help inform people how to cause the least amount of wear and tear on these old, delicate machines. And if some snot-nosed kids use the information to download pirated material on their virus ridden machines on their way to surf some porn benefit from the information, than that’s an unfortunate side-effect, but not a good reason to not try to figure out the safest way for honest users to play their backed-up games or even to try out downloaded roms to decide what to buy. But anyway, just for the record, we DO agree that its wrong to just download ROMS to pirate games with no intention to ever buy the games, ever. Again I apologize for the obnoxiosnus of my original post and especially the subject line, and I swear it was temporary insanity! I’m rather embarrassed by my original post, but oh well, that’s life…

It's a small world out here!

My wife and I have been wanting to get into the PC-Engine/Turbografx-16 scene. We are planning to order a NEO PCE Super Flash Cart in a couple days. The prices of the games are so high, at least for us, that we feel like it would be taking too much of a risk not to back them up. Now we just need to pick a system to go with it! Since the NEO PCE Super Flash Cart will play all regions, we will be pretty set as far as being able to play any region HuCard/ TurboChip games that we buy. So what we are concerned about is being able to play PC-Engine/Turbografx-16 CD’s and back-ups of CD’s. I’ve read a lot of people recommending the Duo-R for beginners, but we are really concerned about the sound issues that we keep reading about for all of the Duo models. I’ve also read that they don’t like to play backups very much. I’ve also looked into systems with the CD attachments and I am confused as to which one would be best for playing both US and Japanese CD games, as well as backups of those games. It’s not that big of a deal if we have to buy a Arcade Card and/or Super System card separately, so we can play more of the games available. On Ebay, I’ve seen a TurboGrafix-16 with CD and System card for around $250 + $30.00 shipping, Or a PC-Engine White Core System w CD Turbo-Graphix-16 (Would I need a step-down converter to play it in the US? For around 250.00+$25.00 shipping Or the Dou-R route, for $119 in Japan, with $61.00 EMS shipping I have no idea if these are good prices or not or how well the CD attachments will play all region games and backups of our games… Any advice?

HEhe, was going to get this from you, but my wife has already read the thread and got the ebay link from your second post and bought them Hard to say if they will work for her, but she does have small hands and likes the small wierd Tomy Tutor controls that we have the best so far, but they aren't compatible with anything else but the Tutor/Pyuuta's... Can't believe that they were right there on Ebay. I've searched Ebay for a while now using the search term "amiga power stick", when it was listed as "Atari Power Stick" That's so cool! PM sent

Update: Already got Arcade Pad, now trying to find the elusive Amiga Power Stick

OOOPS... I meant to put this in the Buying subforum. Is it possible someone can move this for me? I am trying to buy a few joysticks for my wife to try as she doesn’t like the joysticks for the Atari. We’d really like to try the Amiga Power Stick. And possibly the Sega Arcade Pad. ---ALREADY BOUGHT I have no idea what prices are for these. We don’t need more than 1 of each, as we are just getting them for her. Also we don’t need them with a box or anything like that as long as they work fine, as we are just trying them out. Please feel free to check out our feedback on Ebay.

Best way to get a fully modded and chipped Saturn? My wife and I in the US and are trying to get a Saturn to play imports and homebrew. We are looking to get a 50hz/60hz switch and a UK/US/Japan switch for the imports and also chipped to play CD-R homebrew. Neither of us have any interest in doing this ourselves, we are both all thumbs when it comes to soldering. There seems to be three ways we could do this. We could a) Try and buy one already fully modded. I found one expensive place in the UK that sells them pre-modded and chipped, but they are out of the fully modded black switched models. They do have a white Japanese one that is fully modded and chipped but does it without using switches I think using the reset button to do it, for I think 110 pounds (about $225), and that’s before shipping. b) Buy one of the black ones with just a 50hz/60hz switch and a UK/US/Japan switch, buy a mod chip for the CD-R (found one in the US for something like $56 plus shipping) homebrew stuff then try to get someone to put it in. I found one of these also in the UK for 70 pounds (around $143) before shipping. There may be some cheaper, I’m not sure. But then I’d have to get someone/someplace else to add the CD-R chip which means mailing it back and forth. I guess we could use a swap disk but we’d rather not if possible. c) Buy a totally unmodded Saturn and get someone to do all the mods for me. I have no idea what this might cost or who would be willing to do it. As far as I can tell, most people either do the CD-R chip or both the 50hz/60hz switch and UK/US/Japan switch, but not all three. Anyone have any suggestions on the best/cheapest way to do this? Thanks!

It's been brought to my attention that Goldeneye, Mario Kart 64, Soul Calibur and Power Stone are competitive rather than cooperative so I've removed them from the list. Also I've added the Neo Geo.

What retro/classic systems (either consoles or cartridge-based computers, no PC’s) would you say are worth buying just for its co-op games and no other reason? This could either be because a) there are a whole lot of co-op games for that console which are either exclusive to that system or have their best version on that system b) There are only a couple of co-op games for that console but those games are only on that console and they are good enough to justify buying that system. c) A super obscure weird system that only has 1 or 2 co-op games that might suck but no-one will even know they exist without someone familiar with the system pointing them out I’ve done a LOT of research on this subject so I can kick this off with what I can think of at the moment. Playstation 1,2,3 and Xbox, Xbox360 aren’t on this list because there are loads of lists of co-op games for those systems. 3DO – As far as I know, doesn’t have any co-op games other than Captain Quazar. There’s some game shows I think but they are competitive. Not a machine for co-op only players IMO. Atari 2600 – definitely worth it for co-op play just for Joust and Mario Bros. We also play Space Invaders (one of us moves the other shoots)., Wizard or Wor, GI Joe, and a couple others, but for us, it’s all about Joust. Atari 5200 – No idea whether its worth it just for co-op. Atari 7800 – I’ve heard its good for co-op but I don’t know much about it so I don’t know if it’s worth getting just for co-op for people who already have a 2600. Our TI-99/4A (cartridge based computer) I grew up with this computer so I’m biased towards it. There is some co-op play on two games that don’t to my knowledge exist on any other platform. We have a lot of fun playing Microsurgeon (one moves the other shoots) and also A-maze-ing in co-op mode. Saturn US - We plan on getting one just for Guardian Heroes. I’ve read in several places it’s worth getting just for that game. We also plan on getting Virtual On, House of the Dead. I know there are some other very popular co-op Saturn games, but I think most them are Japanese and won’t play on the US console. From what I’ve read, this system is definatley worth buying just for co-op, but I have never owned one. Saturn Japanese – not sure if you need to know Japanese to play these but there are several articles that say these are worth buying one: Dungeons and Dragons Collection, Elevator Action Returns, no idea if it would be worth buying one just for the Japanese co-op games. N64 We have one in the mail and I got Star Fox 64 and Jet Force Gemeni in the mail too… I’m still looking into what co-op games there might justify buying this console, I’ve read Perfect Dark, Quake 2 is good on this console, but the jury is still out as to how. Honestly it was an impulse buy, as from what I’ve read the co-op games may or may not have been worth buying the system for co-op only games, I’ll report later when we get it. Genesis/Mega drive: I’ve seen several co-op games listed for this esp but I’m not sure if they justify buying this system for co-op onlyor not: The ones I remember reading about are General Chaos, Streets of Rage 1-3, Sonic the Hedgehog 2. NES – I’m sure there are loads of co-op games for this, I just can’t remember what the exclusive co-op titles are or if it’s worth getting just for co-op. SNES – I see several co-op games on co-op lists for this system but have no idea if it’s worth getting the system or not. People list Battle Toads but also say it’s really hard to beat. Turtles in Time, Double Dragon, Wild guns, Kirby Super Star, The Secret Of Mana Zombies ate my neighbors. It seems like a candidate system for co-op only players, but I have no idea. GameCube- Does anyone know if this is worth getting just for co-op? I see loads and loads and loads of co-op games for this system, but almost none of them seem to be exclusive to this system, maybe someone here knows. Dreamcast – Hmm from what I’ve read this may not be worth buyng just for co-op, but again I’m just going by what I’ve read online. Jaguar – I have no idea what the co-op scene is for this system. Neo-Geo - I've been told that this has lots of co-op arcade style games but I don't know much about it. FM Towns Marty – I don’t think there are any co-op games that justify getting this, but I’d love to be corrected if I’m wrong about that. The problem is from what I’ve read there really isn’t much in the way of exclusive titles for this, co-op or otherwise. Sega Master System – Does anyone know the co-op situation for this? TurboGrafx-16 – not sure about the co-op scene here Obscure consoles: My wife and I love the obscure systems and are trying to find out which of the obscure systems have even 1 co-op game. The TI-99/4a (cartridge based computer) has three co-op games that we know of as listed above. Other consoles we’d love to know if there’s any co-op games at all no matter how bad are: Amstrad GX4000, Commodore 64 Games System, Action Max, Tomy Tutor/Pyuuta, Sega SG-1000, VTech CreatiVision, Fairchild Channel F, CD-I, Super A'can, Amiga CD32, Apples Pippin, iQue Player, Tapwave Zodiac, etc…. Please give your opinions as to your which systems are worth buying just for co-op or any info on obscure systems with any co-op at all…