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About RodLightning

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  • Birthday 08/21/1969

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    USA Southeast
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    Computers, console gaming, cycling both motor and human powered. Old technology. Coin-op games and equipment.

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  1. Wow, that tag was the price! Nice find. I figured it would be full of renamed NES games or worse. So cheap and poorly made. With several damaged and no sign of a UPC, they will probably sit there for a long time.
  2. Typical Walmart find. Nobody working in the dept. knew anything about them, although I didn't try very hard to get more info. That shelf tag may have been for something else. First thing I thought about was a case mod for raspberry pi. Spray paint would be mandatory. The analog stick and weird wide screen LCD caught my attention though.
  3. I saw several of these purple things in a Alabama Walmart. No bar code to scan or price tag other that the yellow shelf tag. Stickers were peeling or missing on some and the red analog control knob was gone on one of them. They have a three position switch on the back: on, off, try me. Batteries were dead on all of them so no testing possible. Cheap looking construction but interestingly over a foot tall. Has anyone seen these in a saleable condition?
  4. I would put a Q6600 cpu in it if it will take it. Also, going to 8gb is a a good idea for Windows 10 (or 8.1), even though it is the slower DDR2 in that machine. The memory is probably the first thing I would upgrade. The video card is really a matter of how much you want to spend and what games you want to try and run. Any Geforce card from 600 or 700 range will be fine for retro gaming and even PC games from a couple years ago. The latest eye candy games are beyond that hardware. Graphics cards in the $100 and up range would start to get bottle necked by the DDR2 sdram. It might manage some light 720P gaming on low to medium detail settings, depending upon title. For internet, music, web, youtube, etc, that system is good for a few years yet. It's perfectly fine for general use with cpu and memory upgraded and only sees a challenge if you want to run modern games. Your current cpu might be good enough as well, but Q6600s are under $10 these days, so why not? A couple of shopping tips: Sometimes you can find a deal directly from evga.com on wednesdays: https://www.evga.com/midweekmadness/ When shopping for memory, use the search feature on crucial.com to find your exact memory. Then buy from there, or take the info and try ebay or craigslist if you are so inclined. my two cents
  5. From the pictures on that Amazon listing, I thought for a minute they were including a smaller GPIO board with it, but I think those are just examples. Yes, that's the correct board. It works out of the box, similar to a raspberry pi in that respect. Digikey also sells them: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/terasic-inc/P0496/P0496-ND/6817231 To make it run MiSTer, you would need to go here: https://github.com/MiSTer-devel There is a sd card formatter to create a bootable MiSTer setup. You can use the 8gb card that comes with the DE-10, or use a larger card (I have a 64gb sandisk in mine). The wiki with all the other info is here: https://github.com/MiSTer-devel/Main_MiSTer/wiki Copying the cores over is easy enough, making the arcade ROMs (not included) is a little more difficult, but instructions are there. You can use MAME ROMs or everdrive sets for the various cores. There is a learning curve there, but not terribly difficult. Info is all online, albeit a bit scattered sometimes in forum threads. Some of the cores use the built-in DDR3 sdram in the DE-10 nano, others need the slower SDRAM board to properly implement older hardware such as the classic computers.
  6. Since you are using just the one power cable on both, I would start by making absolutely sure that 5vdc is present at the DIN connector and power jack inside the computer. Both XLs completely dead suggests an issue with the power plug. Wet the DIN pins with wd-40 or rubbing alcohol and then repeatedly insert and remove the plug into a power jack. Friction will help remove any tarnish. Let the contacts air dry for a while, then power up a computer. If no joy, then try taking those measurements at the power jack and other points inside the computer.
  7. I have one and enjoy it. Keeping up with all the different cores (arcade machine / computers / game consoles) can be a weekly task if you want to keep everything updated to bleeding edge. There are scripts available to help automate downloaded updates. I have the SDRAM and I/O board with fan installed on my DE-10 and a small heat sink on the FPGA. I currently have it living in a generic 3D printed enclosure. Definitely more of a DIY build, you also need a mini-usb hub as the DE-10 nano only has the one mini usb port. Most users want to add a mouse, keyboard and game pad. Some are now using usb bluetooth and wifi dongles as well. It's a very active project. The main developer along with contributors stay busy. Edit: The add-on boards are being sold by various individuals with the know-how and skills to make them up. There is a seller thread on atari-forum dedicated to the add-ons.
  8. Links are both broken. Edit: Weirdly, they both work in the above quotation, although not sure if they point where intended.
  9. The seller is sure someone into that kind of stuff will shell out for this 1050 and know how to get a game going on it in no time. After all, it does say "ATARI" on it. I may have put more thought into it just now that the seller ever did. At least he listed it as make offer.
  10. Do you have a PC with a serial port? If the same issues happen hooking your uds to another terminal, it would rule out any problems on the atari side.
  11. I refuse to believe this happened until I secure a copy of the romset in question for testing in mame. I will of course, delete the files after testing and playing.
  12. Strange character returns can mean mismatch baud setting between terminal software and data terminal equipment (Lantronix). No idea about D6 and D7. You are loading software from alternate drives?
  13. Found a Wii for $6usd a few weeks ago and lucked into a loose stand and sensor bar this week for $3. All works good. Same day, different store was a original NES for $10. NES has a dirty/tarnished ZIF connector. It will play a game only with direct pressure applied to top of cart. The Raspberry Pi in NESPi case I have had for a while but it looks good atop the original.
  14. Post #4 pretty much sums up my experiences as well. I agree with everyone who recommends patience. Time and a watchful eye will yield results...eventually. It also helps to have friends and family helping you keep look out for stuff you need/want. The more the better. The times I have spent more money on a retro project, is when I got impatient on finding the pieces and parts needed for completion. Difficult? Oh yeah. Like games, too easy quickly becomes boring and uninteresting.
  15. Ok, here's the additional requested measurements for Battlezone. As pictured: B1 = 74.5 inches B2 = 74 1/4 inches B3 = 74 inches even A1 at the control panel measured closer to 21 5/16 inches but probably started out 21 1/4. It's hard to say because MDF can swell due to moisture and humidity. Such a tiny difference probably doesn't matter, but you can decide which to use. Lastly, the rear vent measured as follows: Top edge of vent opening starts at 2 1/4 inches down from top edge of the panel. It is 14 inches wide and 1.5 inches tall, with 5 inches of mdf on either side. The vent is centered. The MDF side panels are 1 inch thick, adding to the total width of the cabinet. I hope this helps in making a realistic 3d model. My machine does not have the step, so no measurements possible.
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