RodLightning

So it will basically be reduced to a mailing list. One of the things I liked about the original yahoo groups was the ability to read new posts directly from the group site in the order they were posted, numbered. Some users subscribed to an email digest or even opted to get individual emails sent to them. I never did that as my email box is cluttered enough already. This decision by yahoo fits with the times, I suppose. Remove what little practical functionality existed and retain the least desirable (to me anyway) parts of the service. It's still worth what we pay for it though, free. Yahoo web mail allows for sorting incoming messages into folders. Directing an email digest into a specific folder is probably what I will be doing. It shouldn't be a lot of incoming mail anymore. Yahoo groups activity isn't what it once was.

I remember this type of simm socket being present on some older pc motherboards. They were a pain to remove the simm as there are no moving parts. The release relies on flexing two plastic tabs, the ones going through holes on either side. As the plastic ages and becomes brittle, the removal process will be more likely to crack or break off a tab. I recommend putting a drop of silicon based lubricant on either side. Let it penetrate, and then gently try pushing down on the plastic catch that protrudes through the simm circuit board hole. Use a finger or thumb nail to apply as little force as possible. The plastic "latch" will pop loose when you push the simm board inward. Do one side at a time. Wish him luck, those early cheap slots were sometimes tough, even when new.

Video by Pezz 82 on advanced usage of MiSTer scripts, among other things. Lots of good info:

LOL, yeah I noticed the 666 page number. I have a Sears 2600 too...the wood grain on telegames versions is a different type of fake wood than on the Atari version. I sort of like the silver trim. The golden tarnished plate on yours can be marketed as a "feature". Perhaps it was gold plated by father time. Hopefully another post will move us past this devil page!

The 74LS42 function is replaced by the incognito board. The one I have here just has a ribbon header which plugs directly into the empty chip socket where the 74LS42 chip was. It's possible yours had an earlier prototype version of the board with slightly different design, but I am only guessing. Either way, it's a good thing you still have chip. If you managed to get your 800 to boot, then you must have gotten the original ROM board and one or more RAM boards back in their slots. A factory 800 has a "personality" ROM board in the wider slot in front. The three remaining slots should have 16kb memory boards in each for a total of 48kb. There may be a push button switch installed somewhere on the case as part of the incognito, which can be ignored if you keep it as-is.

Did the previous owner replace the 74LS42 chip or missing? Also forgot to mention you will need an original Atari OS board to go along with at least one 16k ram board to get it behaving as a stock machine. I'm wondering if something else is wrong with this 800 that it lost its Incognito board... Edit: Just read last post.. Great News! So you got the parts with it to downgrade. Good deal.

I guess everyone doesn't keep their spare chassis. Someone perhaps found a better 800 for their Incognito board? The mind boggles. Time to find some ram boards and see if the computer still works! Yes, there are a few chnges which must be reversed before putting standard Atari ram boards back in to test it.

My two cents, If your episodes will be covering various consoles, 'Classic Gaming General' comes to mind. If your content will start out with a focus on 2600 hardware and games, I don't think posting to the Atari 2600 forum would be at all out of place. Good luck!

Yes, I would be grateful for any info on hacking the original. I'm trying to reassemble a set of basic instructions from what remains on the internet. Looks like I missed the boat on DTV hacking, which peaked around 2007.

I am looking for good info on hacking the C64 DTV into a proper working Commodore 64 system. Ten or more years later, a lot of the old links with necessary diagrams, firmware and instructions are dead. I have owned the original joystick model for years and recently found a Hummer Offroad plug and play game in a local thrift. The Hummer game seems like a good candidate to modify, as the game-play itself isn't great and I seem to remember it being a revised version of the original Jeri Ellsworth design. What I am wanting to do, at minimum, is to solder on a ps/2 keyboard port and a serial port to use with a real 1541 floppy drive.

400s are great to use, but as said earlier, a 48k memory upgrade is very much needed. In the mid 1980s, I was in the middle of playing through Infocom's Zork series when my 64k 600XL developed a video output problem. I sent it away for servicing and bought my first 400 from a local KMart. It was the floor model that for some reason, had been sitting on a shelf for months. I was able to get my hands on an official Atari 48k upgrade kit through a local Atari dealer (remember those?) and was quickly back to playing Zork II on a membrane keyboard! I hated it at first and couldn't wait for my XL to be sent back. After a few days, I started to get used to rapid typing on the 400. Numb fingertips aside, it wasn't so bad. I own two working 400s currently, the second one I got years later at a thrift store was stock until Jurgen (tf_hh on AtariAge) made his 48/52kb ram card, a great modern upgrade. 400s are solidly built, and probably a little harder to damage than their big brother, the 800.

Try here: https://www.arcadepunks.com/retro-pi-downloads-page/ Lots of prebuilt images to write to your cards with etcher or win32diskimager. Finding the best collection to match your sd card size is the biggest challenge. There are so many releases. Most come with all games and are ready to boot. The only down side is that larger capacity images take a while to both download and then write out to a card. I like the ones by Damasco, although there are many others. Click the 'read nfo' on the end first, as there are usually youtube previews of content.

Wow, that tag was the price! Nice find. I figured it would be full of renamed NES games or worse. So cheap and poorly made. With several damaged and no sign of a UPC, they will probably sit there for a long time.

Typical Walmart find. Nobody working in the dept. knew anything about them, although I didn't try very hard to get more info. That shelf tag may have been for something else. First thing I thought about was a case mod for raspberry pi. Spray paint would be mandatory. The analog stick and weird wide screen LCD caught my attention though.

I saw several of these purple things in a Alabama Walmart. No bar code to scan or price tag other that the yellow shelf tag. Stickers were peeling or missing on some and the red analog control knob was gone on one of them. They have a three position switch on the back: on, off, try me. Batteries were dead on all of them so no testing possible. Cheap looking construction but interestingly over a foot tall. Has anyone seen these in a saleable condition?

I would put a Q6600 cpu in it if it will take it. Also, going to 8gb is a a good idea for Windows 10 (or 8.1), even though it is the slower DDR2 in that machine. The memory is probably the first thing I would upgrade. The video card is really a matter of how much you want to spend and what games you want to try and run. Any Geforce card from 600 or 700 range will be fine for retro gaming and even PC games from a couple years ago. The latest eye candy games are beyond that hardware. Graphics cards in the $100 and up range would start to get bottle necked by the DDR2 sdram. It might manage some light 720P gaming on low to medium detail settings, depending upon title. For internet, music, web, youtube, etc, that system is good for a few years yet. It's perfectly fine for general use with cpu and memory upgraded and only sees a challenge if you want to run modern games. Your current cpu might be good enough as well, but Q6600s are under $10 these days, so why not? A couple of shopping tips: Sometimes you can find a deal directly from evga.com on wednesdays: https://www.evga.com/midweekmadness/ When shopping for memory, use the search feature on crucial.com to find your exact memory. Then buy from there, or take the info and try ebay or craigslist if you are so inclined. my two cents

From the pictures on that Amazon listing, I thought for a minute they were including a smaller GPIO board with it, but I think those are just examples. Yes, that's the correct board. It works out of the box, similar to a raspberry pi in that respect. Digikey also sells them: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/terasic-inc/P0496/P0496-ND/6817231 To make it run MiSTer, you would need to go here: https://github.com/MiSTer-devel There is a sd card formatter to create a bootable MiSTer setup. You can use the 8gb card that comes with the DE-10, or use a larger card (I have a 64gb sandisk in mine). The wiki with all the other info is here: https://github.com/MiSTer-devel/Main_MiSTer/wiki Copying the cores over is easy enough, making the arcade ROMs (not included) is a little more difficult, but instructions are there. You can use MAME ROMs or everdrive sets for the various cores. There is a learning curve there, but not terribly difficult. Info is all online, albeit a bit scattered sometimes in forum threads. Some of the cores use the built-in DDR3 sdram in the DE-10 nano, others need the slower SDRAM board to properly implement older hardware such as the classic computers.

Since you are using just the one power cable on both, I would start by making absolutely sure that 5vdc is present at the DIN connector and power jack inside the computer. Both XLs completely dead suggests an issue with the power plug. Wet the DIN pins with wd-40 or rubbing alcohol and then repeatedly insert and remove the plug into a power jack. Friction will help remove any tarnish. Let the contacts air dry for a while, then power up a computer. If no joy, then try taking those measurements at the power jack and other points inside the computer.

I have one and enjoy it. Keeping up with all the different cores (arcade machine / computers / game consoles) can be a weekly task if you want to keep everything updated to bleeding edge. There are scripts available to help automate downloaded updates. I have the SDRAM and I/O board with fan installed on my DE-10 and a small heat sink on the FPGA. I currently have it living in a generic 3D printed enclosure. Definitely more of a DIY build, you also need a mini-usb hub as the DE-10 nano only has the one mini usb port. Most users want to add a mouse, keyboard and game pad. Some are now using usb bluetooth and wifi dongles as well. It's a very active project. The main developer along with contributors stay busy. Edit: The add-on boards are being sold by various individuals with the know-how and skills to make them up. There is a seller thread on atari-forum dedicated to the add-ons.

Links are both broken. Edit: Weirdly, they both work in the above quotation, although not sure if they point where intended.

The seller is sure someone into that kind of stuff will shell out for this 1050 and know how to get a game going on it in no time. After all, it does say "ATARI" on it. I may have put more thought into it just now that the seller ever did. At least he listed it as make offer.

Do you have a PC with a serial port? If the same issues happen hooking your uds to another terminal, it would rule out any problems on the atari side.

I refuse to believe this happened until I secure a copy of the romset in question for testing in mame. I will of course, delete the files after testing and playing.

Strange character returns can mean mismatch baud setting between terminal software and data terminal equipment (Lantronix). No idea about D6 and D7. You are loading software from alternate drives?

Found a Wii for $6usd a few weeks ago and lucked into a loose stand and sensor bar this week for $3. All works good. Same day, different store was a original NES for $10. NES has a dirty/tarnished ZIF connector. It will play a game only with direct pressure applied to top of cart. The Raspberry Pi in NESPi case I have had for a while but it looks good atop the original.