unhuman

This is the original one - have all the materials and it has Stella Gets a New Brain CD with it. I think it's still sealed (as I had one from the original Stella get a new brain series - didn't need to open it). If I ever used it, it was a long time ago, but I can check it out before selling. I don't know what it's worth, directly, so feel free to make an offer or provide guidance. They don't come up very often. Full Details of Cuttle Cart Thanks - Howie

Highly recommended!

Still waiting for mine. Maybe takes longer b/c preassembled? Or maybe my mailman is slow.

Wishing I ordered unassembled (to save some $). My CV mod was ultimately successful and my soldering skillz confidence is back. Oh well. When can I expect delivery?

Grrrr... I could use one and missed it. Oh well.

When I was a kid, I figured out that I could run a 2600 off a 9V battery - but I don't remember how long a battery lasted... I didn't do a good job. I'm sure a Flashback 2 would last much longer.

It was the coax - multimeter showed me there was connectivity, but now, there's not and the audio is working. So I've got a fully working (and beautiful) solution. Thanks for the help! Now, I worry that the rust on that one chip will eventually kill my board. I do have one other (dead) CV board. It's a shame the CV case is almost big enough to hold a spare board.... Alas, it is not. Thanks for the great solution and the help getting it to work! -Howie

Well, I checked the resistors... They are fine. I checked the rusted chip... I cleaned out between it and guess what?!!! It works. Not only that, but the RF output is now way cleaner than it was before (it was snowy) and the RCA out works. I guess the rust must've gotten moved just enough to ruin everything. Unfortunately, however, I'm not getting any audio. Now, that seems like a pretty simple attachment - any ideas why I'm getting nothing there? -H

I might do that. I still need to check the resistors. My board worked before installation (but was snowy) so I wanted to get better output. I didn't know what to blame. But yeah, let me do a few more tests tonite and then I'll get back to you. Thanks...

I'll try what you suggest. Unfortunately, the CV is otherwise dead, so I'll check out the resistors - yet be careful to ensure they are fine. Is there a way to test the Caps? Anything I can test... Before I go get another CV... Thanks - Howie

Finally got all my pics taken and uploaded. Here they are: It lets you view everything in various sizes. Thanks - Howie

Why are you asking ridiculous questions? The game is supposed to be crap

You're in the same boat as me... I can solder but don't know beans about electronics beyond remedial basics about how resistors, diodes and capacitors work. I could never design a circuit nor figure out how to test one out beyond voltages and connectivity. -H

N 4 1 This mod kicks everything else to the curb Clearer image, no lines, s-video, sharp lines.

Thanks for the quick response. But.... how it's better? Details? Edit: Oh - I noticed it does SVideo... That might be enough to sell me, but anything else? Thanks - Howie This mod kicks everything else to the curb

Any info on if this would compare to this solution? http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/127926-easier-7800-composite-video-mod/

Ok - spent some time with my multimeter, but it's not like I know what I'm doing. Testing the power, I'm definitely getting 12V. Testing the Video out, I'm seeing 4.5V, and testing the RF in, I see it cycle from 0-400mv and then start over 0-400mv. Regarding my prior post, the ground pad for audio is created by scraping off some green on the board. That worked, it seems. I get 0V across audio, but that makes sense since it doesn't work. I didn't look at the docs close enough - they detail where the grounds are set on the board, but that info would be more helpful if the docs included that info when it actually talked about making the connections. Also, the little capacitor - I didn't know how to mount it, but the images implied that the labelling should be on the front, so I did it as such. Still not working, though... -Howie

I (finally) got around to attempting to install the ColecoVision AV mod. I think I built the board properly. Of course, it's not working. Not only that, but my CV itself isn't giving signal to the old RF out (this mod looks like it didn't disable that). There were a few things I had to do that seemed slightly different than the directions. Here's hoping I didn't ruin my CV. Anyhow, there were a few things I had to do to get it to go in. My 15W soldering iron was inadequate to melt the old solder in the CV, so I used my 25W. That worked. Now, compared to the instructions found here: http://www.arcadecomponents.com/f/Colecovision_Composite_AV_Mod_Installation.pdf 1. I used the WJ2 for my +12V, as I did not have a memory Mod 2. My board differs slightly (different rev) than the board in the images. 3. The ground pad on the images for the little board (down to the right of L3) was buried under a weird fat capacitor that was not on the pics in the directions. It was hard to get at and did not want to take solder... It took a while to get this to hold and I figure this is my culprit? 4. The directions did not talk about, when using the coax, where to use the center wire and where to use the braid. When I did mine, i attached center to left and the braid to the right on the little board attachments. It's more obvious when wiring the jacks and the RF adapter. 5. Although it's irrelevant, when doing the sound attachments, my board did not have the grounding pad that is in the installation documentation. So, my sound is disconnected, but that should not affect it working (or not). This also sent as a message to ArcadeComponents.com Any ideas? Thanks - Howie

That's awesome. If I had it to do it all over again, I'd go that route. Oh well. -H

To answer your question, yes. 1&2 wired to J3 and 5&6 wires to J9. if you're doing proof of concept, you could just hard wire it to use the cartridge port and skip the switch (for now). You're gonna pull a switch out of a 2600 just to make this work? That seems foolish. RatShack never has huge lines near me, but, perhaps you're where they do good business... -H

Hehe... I did as well, I thought about having it inserted from the right hand side, since I'm right handed, left handers could go from the left, of course. But then I thought about how difficult it would be to get a clean slot cut out using the tools I have, and punted. Another idea I had was attempting to have some physical switch (button) attached to the cartridge slot such that if there was a cartridge inserted, it would automatically switch to cartridge mode, and when not, default to the built-in games. I know someone else has done a circuit for this, but that seemed overly complicated... Alas, I erred on the side of simple and got it done As far as a rechargable - perhaps a remote control car's 9.6V battery would work. A slight overvolt might be okay... But do at your own perils -H I thought of that cart-fits-inside-the-case idea as well. There certainly seems to be room.

Rather than using a VCR, one could get an RF Demodulator. This is not my auction, but I found these for much cheaper than everywhere else: RF Demodulator on Ebay There's 8% cash back if go find that item on Bing.com. -H

Unfortunately, at this time, I can't - it's all working and as you can see it's pretty tight. I don't want to rock the boat again. I had wires break out a few times and don't want to go through that again. My pics are on twitpic and very high resolution (10MP), so you should be able to view them "full size" to see some things a little closer. If you post a pic of yours, I could tell you if it's the same EDIT: Found Your old post It appears we have the same system. You need a DPDT (Double Pole, Double Throw) switch. This will let you control 2 distinct things with the same switch. You would wire it like this: Please forgive the underscores: Couldn't figure out how to get my ascii art to look good. J3 _ J3 | __ | __ | ========= SWITCH ========= | __ | __ | ___ J9 _ J9 As you can see, if you slide the switch one way, J3 is connected and J9 disconnected. Slide it the other way and J3 disconnects and J9 connects. -H

This has been a long time coming, but I've finally hacked it... Turned out pretty good. The wires are "touchy" and became disconnected several times. But, it's finally done & working. One thing I did - I used a floppy drive cable and kept it a single length. That seems to stress various solder points, particularly along the cartridge slot. If I were to do it again, I would cut those different lengths. Flashback Hacked Board Image The cartridge slot inserted down into the hole I cut. Most other people, IIRC mounted it from below. Anyhow, it felt like it snapped in, but it pulled out if the cartridge was tight, so I used a lot of dollar store super-glue to hold it in. That worked well. Flashback Cartridge Slot Internal Image The cartridge slot solder wasn't nearly as clean as I had hoped, but it works... Stupid wire lengths. Although you can't see it very well here, pin #1 is the red wire. Since I split the floppy wire, I colored #13 black with a sharpie. Closed Up Top Image I used an DPDT switch - as you can see, I didn't mount it high enough into the top, so I had to cut away a little of the bottom, no big deal, but it doesn't look as good as it could. Flashback Back Image

That's nice of you to say. Just try playing them, especially Karate... They are bad games, but... Games none the less. umangame.zipHere's the disk image... He he, I would think only _new_ entries count. Not much “crap” about those mockups/screenshots (aka they look good). Also, I think the download link for umangame.dsk is broken. 99er.net has its share of broken links these days.