tf_hh
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Posts posted by tf_hh
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I have ordered items from www.rewindgames.eu and they use 4 different shipping methods - not sure if this is worth exploring?
At the "shipping costs" site from Rewindgames (assuming you´re an U.S. resident):
United States/Worldwide: Sadly postal rates have gone up. TNT, DHL and DPD are now asking a lot. If you want to order a few light items, please contact us before you order. We will try to find the cheapest option for you. Envelope post up to 350gr: € 6.65 Packets up to 2kg: € 24.00 Packets 2kg - 10kg: € 52.00
The "envelope post up to 350 grams" is something similar to the "Deutsche Post Einschreiben" I used before. Packets up to 2 kg costs here 24 Euros, nearly same price like in Germany.
I´m pretty sure, most other postal services in other countries will change their rules also. Maybe some of them didn´t update their websites yet.
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Both the UK Post Office and USA USPS offer a small packet service for stuff that isn't a standard letter, doesn't Deutsche Post offer something similar?
In the UK the Post Office also has a service called Parcel Force with competes directly with UPS/FedEX/DHL for medium to large parcels as well. Stuff I've sent Parcel Force UK->US in the past has been delivered by USPS in the states.
*** Just had a quick look, https://www.deutschepost.de/de/b/briefe-ins-ausland/warenpost-international.html seems they do the same thing, no need to send stuff as a letter, just as a small packet for ~6 €
The cheapest option is "DHL Päckchen" (small parcel) for 16 Euros. But this is without tracking and insurance - something I never do, specially when paid with Paypal due their terms and conditions ("seller protection"). So additional 4 Euros must be paid, then you must pay 20 Euros for up to 2 kg and max. size of 90 cm (Length + Depth + Height together added). For 1 kg goods this price is much lower then the other way, but for my light-weighted shipments is double expensive than before.
Such services like parcel force exists in Germany only for business users and have their focus on parcels with 5 kg and more. I´m pretty sure when you use parcel force in UK for 200 grams with insurance it´s also double (and more) expensive than standard royal mail.
Regarding your quick look... that´s the problem with quick looks
- please read my text carefully. These options ("Warensendung international") requires to be a registered business user (company) with a lot of costs and things to fulfill the requirements of U.S. (and other countries) customs terms and conditions. Special labels are needed. And much more... -
Hi all,
some changes
for further orders from me...Since January 1st 2019 it´s impossible to ship goods for 9 Euros worldwide any more, because "Deutsche Post" (German equivalent to "U.S. Postal Service (USPS)") changes his standard business conditions. The postal product "letter" (which I used before) doesn´t allow ANY kind of goods anymore - just paper, documents and magazines ("print items"). ANY content of hardware or "things" in general is denied.
To prevent to include any goods, you can´t label such shipments with the international CN22 customs declaration form any more. If the destination postal service and/or customs will detect any goods in letters, the shipment is withhold and will be destroyed or return to sender with terrible extra fees.
As a private person like me there´s no chance to use other, cheaper ways than DHL freight (standard parcels). The smallest product is "DHL Päckchen", which offers up to 2 kg weight and 50 Euros insurance for 20 Euros. If you want more insurance, I must use "DHL Paket", which is much more expensive.
By default 50 Euros insurance is enough, I never have problems with lost or damaged parcels in the last years. Everybody who has ordered something from me before knows, that I packed very well. Without insurance the price would be 16 Euros, but I can´t sent without tracking number due to Paypal terms and conditions. At last, without the 50 Euros insurance and tracking number it´s something like a game of chance, if the parcel would arrive you or not.
These changes are NOT a special german thing… the general terms and conditions of the "Universal Postal Union" (UPU) was changed and deny from now on the shipment of goods in letters. Main booster for the changes within the UPU rules was the U.S. government with the "Stop Act" to prevent drug smuggling. Read more here: https://govtrackinsider.com/stop-act-would-require-postal-service-to-scan-incoming-packages-from-overseas-for-opioids-ad5d174ad1a9
IMHO the good idea behind the containment of drug trading was only one motivation, but maybe not the most important one really - if you watch political discussions, global trading agreements etc., but it´s now the game we have to play and affects to all members in the Universal Postal Union(which causes to be ALL countries on this planet…).
For companies there are new ways of shipping possible which include goods, but I can´t register as a company. These special shipments require - for example - a complete digital transfer of all infos, invoices, included parts and their country of origin to the (U.S.) customs authority before shipment was dropped off and specialised, barcode labels for the shipments. Of course you´ve to pay for these services and you must sent a minium quantity each month.So for "little people" only the standard parcel services remains, which are expensive.
Sorry. Maybe one day new ways will be open, but today I didn´t see any other chance. This affects shipments worldwide - not only to or from the U.S.
Jurgen
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How much more difficult is it to make them work with 1.44 disk drives?
This isn´t easy when using the XF551 circuit as a most compatible base. You will need twice base frequency (16 MHz instead of 8.333 MHz) for the FDC, an AJAX FDC or one of the selected 1772-02-02 variants (they work flawless with overclocking) and at last complete new firmware which runs flawless at higher CPU (8040/8050) speed, too. And the firmware must be enabled for switched HD/DD.
IMHO this ongoing project shall be a simple just-replace-the-PCB-and-do-two-little-things solution for not dozens of bucks, specially the today useless single sided SF354 is offered anywhere for a few USD/Euros at eBay etc., most Atari ST users have also a bunch of it in the basement
When asking for HD and "more modern" solutions, I think, it´s better to buy a Karin Maxi Drive or similar solution. Or anybody try to re-create the HDI from ABBUC (no... myself hasn´t any time for such a job, my desk is full with other projects!).
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Atari did have a prototype 3.5" drive for the 8-Bits, the XF-351, Single Sided, double density (80 tracks, 18x256byte sectors per track, for 360K) but was never released. Same mechanism as the ST's SF314. Very similar operation / hardware to the XF551, probably only firmware differences.
Theoretically such a solution is easy to made.
1. Dropcheck makes a new PCB of the re-imaged XF551 PCB. Because no power supply part is needed (the SF354/SF314 has 5 and 12 volts), the PCB can be much smaller and, more important, must NOT require a XF551 as a organ donor. All parts are availible except the special oscillator, but Dropcheck has also made a fine solution.
2. With the Hyper-XF O.S. you can attach any 3.5 80 track mechanic. No other changes possible, and Hyper-XF is much better than the genuine firmware
Just my 2 cents.. I would do that way
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Does a jumper need to be set to make it take the 27C64's?
Yes. Above the both ROM sockets are some 0R resistors used as jumper bridges. It´s easy to mod the 1200XL to work like a 800XL, which gives more compatibility.
1. Remove the both 24 pin sockets and solder 28 pin sockets in.
2. Change the "jumper resistors" from W9/W13, W8/W12 and W7/W11 to the opposite one´s if you want to keep it genuine 1200XL like
For upgrading to a 800XL:
3. Remove 0R resistor at W6 and connect addressline A13 (taken from pin 3 of the MMU for example) to pin 26 of the bottom ROM socket (U13)
4. Burn the desired XL O.S. into one 27128 EPROM, placed in the bottom ROM socket (U13)
5. Burn, if you want, Atari- or Altirra-Basic into one 2764 EPROM, place it into the upper ROM socket (U12)
6. Burn a GAL16V8 with the MMU jedec code for the 600/800 XL
7. Connect pin 18 of the MMU socket to pin 11 of the PIA socket
That´s all. Now you have a 1200XL with internal BASIC and, I suggest to use this, a Rev.2 800XL OS, which gives the best compatibility to all software (IMHO).
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Hmm. Maybe you grab the COLOR signal from the wrong point? It´s a long time ago since I built an UAV into a 2600 Junior, so I don´t remember really where I connect COLOR, but looking into Jerzy´s schematics:
I would suggest to remove that cap (C50). The 1k pull-up resistor must remain. Grab the COLOR signal anywhere between pin 9 of TIA and C50. The pad you´re used (R54) is not found in the trace of COLOR, but I think it´s a mistake in the schematics.
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I configured the UAV for 2600. The picture is very good, but the colors seems to be wrong (as far as I can tell).
Did you try to re-adjust the color using the color-pot? Same behavior like with all Atari computers :-)
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Or find some (pro) mixing device that has hdmi in and out that allows to convert and mix the audio into the hdmi output...
The are some "injectors" on the market, DVI and/or HDMI input, analogue audio using RCA and the device mux them all together to one HDMI output with audio. But I didn´t find a smaller than 10x8 cm, this won´t fit. The owner of this 5200 wants, if possible, a nice solution built-in.
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Another option is to use a DVI-D to HDMI cable that also carries the analog audio signal.
https://www.mycablemart.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=6237
Thanks, but this doesn´t work this way - the television hasn´t an additional analogue input for audio. Only when switched to SCART input, the RCA jacks for audio are used
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Hi,
I´ve built the Sophia DVI into an Atari 5200 console and it works fine. But what I missed: The Audio output. The 5200 shall be connected to a standard 40" TV with HDMI only. Video works fine with a DVI to HDMI cable of 3 meters. Now I look for a nice option to integrate the Audio of the 5200 console into the HDMI video stream. My 1st wish was to include this into the 5200, there´s enough space. Does anybody here have a suggestion for a small DVI & analogue Audio to HDMI converter? I saw the Monoprice item at the beginning of this thread, but this device is not really small.
Any hints welcome.
Jurgen
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Interesting issue
When I read the posts before right, you´ve changed OS-ROM, BASIC-ROM and MMU already. So I would focus on smaller parts. One possibility - I´ve had this issue some years ago - is a missing or defect (yeah, possible!) resistor. Check R4 (3k, near by the MMU) and the voltage of pin 14 @ MMU. This pin always should read high (something more then 2.5 volts is fine) as long no real PBI device is attached and running.
When pin 14 - called MPD, MathPack disable - is left open or grounded, then the address area $D800-$DFFF will be reserved for external use by a PBI compliant device. This will cause in a ROM checksum error, because the floating point math routines located in the same area can´t accessed and self-test will report an error. Check this pin...
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The bare board is running around $2.00 per and assembled will be around $7.00 plus shipping. tf_hh should be able to offer the bare boards as well to those in europe. I don't know if he wants to assemble them.
Sure I will
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Bumping the thread. I still have a few pieces of Atari 800 mylars (not XL) which need to be tested. I do not have such keyboard. Who wants to help me? Free shipping and tester can keep the mylar after tests!
Overlooked. Sure I will help. Sent a PM.
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AAAarrrggghhhh! Anyone else have problems trying to program these damn Flash chips? AM29F040? I am having trouble with one of mine. I went to erase it and it enly went to 13% and said finished. Erase chip produces "erase completed byDQ7" instantly. Then when I try to program, it gets to 49% and stops. I spend 2 hours trying to get this to work. I ended up ording 3 new chips from eBay to test next. I did see there is a way to do it with an Atarimax 8Mbit cart by doubing the ROM and programming the two chips on the cart. Might try that next....
Just one hint... do you try it with the right version of the 29F040? AMD offers to variants... AM29F040 and AM29F040B - the "B" is very important. The both versions differ in sector sizes, protection schemes and some other small details. IMHO the "B" version is more common in retro-stuff, but check it.
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So far not a peep from the guy I contacted that should have all of the IP on this device. If by some miracle we connect up, I'll be sure to ask him for the Rockwell chip datasheet so that the IO assignments can be determined. Because nothing I've found in the wild matches up with it being in a 44 pin SMD package.
Sounds good. IMHO this Rockwell-chip is something like a PIC or ATmega today - I would wonder if Rockwell "just" uses his 6507 CPU and 6532 RIOT, mix them together with a ROM for the firmware and that´s all. So the most important part is the firmware itself. The hardware could be replaced by an ATmega or similar.
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I seem to recall in discussions with Jon, that the one I sent him for examination had a peculiarity all of its own.
I may be confused here, but I think it was down to it being an Amic chip and a compatibility issue with these.
I didn´t own one of these 32-in-1 OS switchers, so just "something completely different" (by Monty Python
)... I´m remembering such problems when Steven changed the Flash-ROMs from AMIC to AMD - new, special flash write routines were needed to make the newer AtariMax 8 MBit Flashcarts work fine.How the changed (selected) OS is stored? Does anybody knows this? Maybe the selection is stored in the "first" OS (the menu) itself. Maybe his code checks the access to the flash-chip. This would be one reason why changing to another flashchip won´t work.
Just an idea...
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I've also found that the mantra should ne "never replace caps, never replace caps" just because it's the vogue thing to do. If there is a problem, then replace them.
I have never in my life, had to replace a cap in any Atari computer, peripheral, etc. since I have been using them. From 1982 to 2018. Also, I have lots of high power, high dollar vintage audio gear. Some going back to my birth year of 1975. Again, never an issue.
I'd really love to know the origin of this mythical need for "re-capping" devices.
There are HUGE differences in quality and parts used by the manufacturer. I wouldn´t say "replacing caps" is something like a mantra or nonsense, it depends on the personal experiences some hardware guys made.
When we´re talking about the first production waves of the Atari XL series for example, I´m in. Never need to replace a cap on an rev. A or B type Atari 600 XL, 800 XL or 1200 XL. But the newer, mostly in Europe offered versions with Freddie-IC and all XE series have definitely lower quality caps. I have had to repair a lot of systems, where the major caps (470 uF, located beside the power switch and the O.S. ROM ("800XLF")) looks good, but weren´t. Systems are instable, sometimes they hang etc. - after changing this caps all were fine. Several times the caps are beginning to "take their hat off" (visible deformation at the upper part, cap will blow out).
But also some 400/800 systems are affected. If you have an Atari 400 or Atari 800 with long usage time, sometimes the big 4700 or 6800 uF electrolytic cap at the power PCB is bad. Also instable system, and voltages with a lot of ripple. This also for 1050 disk drives. Heavy used drives have defect or near-by-defect caps, and if you don´t exchange them, you might cause other defects in case of overvoltages. Most times the 78xx linear VRM burns and the rest is safe, but not always. I´ve done repairs at over hundreds of systems and disk drives, and my opinion is easy: Better change the most important caps for a few bucks - we´re talking about +30 years old components...!
Also regarding high-end HiFi components... it depends massively on the manufacturer and used parts - and, not to forget, on the time the device wasn´t powered on! Some years ago I got a Bang & Olufson amplifier as a gift, build in the early 80s. I was curious - and quite silly - and power on the amplifier... after a few seconds both big caps of the output stage blast away. The amplifier was not used for over 20 years...
Last word: Ask any Amiga 600 or 1200 owner regarding "caps"...
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Thank you to everyone who decides to help.Sent a PM to Voy for paypal address
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I have a few of the pokeymax boards from the initial run I did for the ABBUC content entry here.
There are 6 left. I'm selling them for 40USD, 35EUR or 30GBP if you are interested. Open to anyone, though I'd rather people who are willing to help me test/improve them. Priority to ABBUC members!
There are also 7 bare pcbs, though you need to be VERY GOOD at SMD to assemble them (BGA and very small parts). Also about 30 souvenir boards that don't work (wrong footprint!). If you want any of those make me an offer:-)
I expect there will be a more polished 2nd run next year. I've just packed up a couple for some arcade experts to try. Also I plan to do more work on the firmware (I'm yet to try it on an NTSC board even).
I would take one :-)
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Also - Does anyone know if using 2 x 32k Intec Peripherals memory boards would actually work (64k total) - anyone tried this..?
Failing that ill try this - http://atariage.com/forums/topic/242691-atari-800-256kb-upgrade/
a.) Using an Atari 800 without Incognito or another heavy modification you can only access 48 (or 52KB with some hacks) memory at once. All other solutions require bank-switching. Without mods to the mainboard and personality cartridge the last 16 KB can´t access by RAM, even if you put a 64 KB RAM cart in. The old series (400/800) never include such mechanism like the XL/XE series.
b.) I´m quite sure that only one of the non-standard (i.e. 8 or 16 KByte) RAM carts works fine. And only in the middle slot, where all needed Sx select lines are availible
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I have started production of 800 and XE single-layer mylars, next will be 1200XL and maybe 800XL. If there is still enough demand, I can make XE double-layer and 400. However, Simius produced a lot of them for XE.
When we´re talking about mylars for this Stackpole XL keyboard:
... then I´m pretty sure there´s a lot demand. In Germany (and maybe other countries, too) this keyboard model is found often - and more often one or more keys are not working due to defect mylars.
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I have mounted Lotharek's Covox on the board.It's a great piece of hardware, but I'm switching covox to disabled in ultimate setup and covox still works. Any ideas?
As already mentioned, Covox can´t be detected by software. It uses 4 bytes of address space and uses typically the addresses $0280 or $D600. Covox switching on/off is only possible with the Stereoboard made by Candle.
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If enough people are interested, maybe Jürgen and/or Lenore or somebody else could redesign the SALT hardware.
Bradley (BEST Electronics) sell them "NOS" (New Old Stock). New, unused SALT extermal test fixture for all SALT versions in an Atari 850 shell for 50 USD. IMHO this is a fair price and there´s no need to clone it until some units are in stock.
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Atari 800 best ram options
in Atari 8-Bit Computers
Posted
I planned a new personality card for the Atari 800. It shall be no replacement for the Incognito, but will combine four flash-based operating systems, 64 KB base memory (you don´t need the memory modules anymore) and 512 kb axlon expanded memory on one single, cheap solution. Maybe other features, too. But today I´m working at The Expander 600XL and some Atari ST stuff. So little time...