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The order in the schematics is not the same like on the mainboards. Look into the Sys-Check manual, there´s a picture of the different mainboard variants with the correct order.

Hi, many thanks to trub - he helped a lot and grants me to use his website for information. I´m working at the manual besides the solder job. Actually I have less spare time than usual due to heavy workload in the office. And - maybe a result of the near-by autumn - A lot of people sent me their defective Atari 8-Bit stuff for repair or building expansions like Rapidus in their computers (never be in touch since now with that). But I hope to finish the first batch soon. I will offer some SRAM chargers with straight connector instead of using the angled connector specially for the LDW 2001. Jurgen

There´s no direct, easy way, because the combined video + sync signal (= composite video) at the Atari 400 circuit is too weak to drive any standard 1Vss input of a television. You have to do one of these: a.) exchange six resistors at the 400 mainboard and remove the RF modulator, and remove some parts from the HF audio modulation unit b.) make a little amplifier using a few parts on an extra PCB c.) install an UAV plug-in board or my SCCC Version a) is invasive to the mainboard, but has a better result. For version b) here´s a schematic: Most times - as my personal experience - the "Math-ROM" is defect. Remove this for a test - it´s not needed in general, only Atari-Basic and some other languages need it to run, the OS will work flawless without Math-ROM. It´s chip "A105" at all Atari 400 mainboard versios, the chip itself is marked with CO12399B. Good luck, Jurgen

I got the PCBs last week, but until today I haven´t found the time to start assembling. Will need 1-2 weeks until a bunch of ready-to-use and tested SRAM chargers are ready. Will keep you updated here

To save postage costs, I will offer to add a 40 pin (20x2) stripe of male connector pins for any order for a few euro-cents. It´s cheaper than make a special order IMHO.

I would suggest to buy a new, 220/230 volts compatible power supply instead of a 230 => 115 volt converter. You can get a good replacement power supply at Amazon, search for "Rockpower 9V AC". You will find a 2.1A AC power supply for around 18 Euros. When using Amazon UK you can order it with the UK plug instead of the Euro standard plug. 2.1A is absolutely enough for any 1050 with or without expansions, you don´t need really 3A.

Cat is included?

Thanks for this info. I´ve already read about this fact, also some clones hasn´t the connector, but it can be soldered in. Another bunch of drives (non Indus GT!) need modifications on the main PCB, too. I will collect these infos and make a small manual for installation. The usage of CP/M etc. is well explained in different places (Trub´s website, AtariWiki etc.)

Don´t know. Have try google for pictures of an open Indus GT for C64, but didn´t found any hint. Here´s the manual for the C64 version, this one doesn´t tell something about a CP/M mode. Indus_GT_Disk_Drive_Manual_C64_version.pdf Maybe anybody else knows more...

Hi, based on the great interest I can offer SRAM charger for 8 Euros each. I´ve ordered 20 more pieces than here requested, so everybody who wants one gets one Thanks, Jurgen

Would be no problem. Pls write to my email (see avatar)

Hi, thanks to you all for the interest - much more than I expected I´ve just ordered a bunch of PCBs and will assemble then this month. Jurgen

1. I´m in the same mood like 8BitJunkie and 1NG 2. IMHO the continuing disputes are the result in establishing the repeated rule changes since 2015 Maybe I´m wrong, but we hadn´t ANY of these discussions in all compos before 2015. I didn´t remember about any software declined for the compo. But since 2015, the rules are changed every year. We didn´t got MORE or BETTER participants. Specially the hardware area is, regarding the huge amount of good new stuff published outside the ABBUC hardware compo something I called a joke. So my 2 cents: No more jurors for the hardware compo. All software entries are handled using the rules of 2015. And, final: The members vote. DONE.

If you have genuine Indus GT drives, no soldering is required. Just plug the PCB in, that´s all.

Seems so The german postal service offers only 1 cm in thickness for a lower postage than the usual boxes I take for all my shipments. This is not enough for an air cushion envelope and some small parts like this. If somebody wants only to order the SRAM Charger and will take the risk, I can offer non-insured shipments for 5 Euros instead of the usual 9 Euros. Not recommended for non-USA and non-Europe destination addresses.

Yes. See this link to Trub´s site and scroll down to the chapter "Testing the extension". There´s a tool for testing the RAM Charger (any type, genuine or new build). You can see the process of testing the 64 KB in pages displayed by the track display - well done, Trub!

Myself has "only" the genuine Indus GT. As I have read (for example here and in some other posts @ AtariAge) this way of building a new RAM-Charger should also work with the clone / compatible drives. But I can´t test it by myself. Trub (see link) has explained what to do. I used a similar way and take a different TTL chip (74HCT139 instead of 74LS155), but there shouldn´t be any difference.

Hi, another little project is made by me: A SRAM-Charger board for the Indus GT drive (and compatible ones). This board enables the usage of CP/M inside the drive´s electronic (based on a Z80 CPU). The PCB is already tested and ready. Here are two pictures: Because this is a very special thing and I assume that not a huge amount of people want one, I want ask for your interest about such a board. The final price will be something between 8 and 12 Euros each. Please show your interest here, if you want one (or more). I will collect the answer for 2-3 weeks and will made some pieces then. They´re offered as my other projects then in my "info pdf". A very big "Thank you!" to Eric Bacher, who enables me to make this thing real. Best regards, Jurgen

The current firmware is 1.4 - I got no email or PM from today, and emails from 2017... deleted

@Richard: The important things about the right RAM chips are already told. But... How is your experience with Atari 8-Bit? If you´re doing the first technical steps with such an old system, it´s better to do it step-by-step. First fix the defects, then think about expansions. There are a lot of new developments, some useful, some not. You will find a lot of infos here at AtariAge

I already own 3 Turbofreezer and some varies of the prototypes , but I´m also in for one or two

I have some pieces also. But if Karl has some, it might be cheaper (shipping costs).

I take a 2nd look to your picture... please check this part: You´ve to remove the right leg of the 100 pF capacitor and solder the wire to "COLOR" (at UAV PCB) to the free pad. Can´t see it really exact, but it looks like the cap is connected to both pads (on both sides). Then such a bad picture is normal. 2nd tipp: Exchange this coil (L6) also with a simple wire. The coil will reduce the +5 volt voltage used for the 4050 (where the UAV draws the power from) and the 1k resistors (pull-up for LUM0...3 and COLOR). At the UAV PCB is a voltage regulator from +5V to +4.5 volts. It´s a real good one, but if the input power is too low, then also such side-effects may happen.

Here´s a picture and marking which cap must be removed at the Sys-Check XE version in case of failures:

Hmm, IMHO after reams of PAL mainboards seen in the last 30 years... half-half. 50% of all 800XL mainboards have the RAMs in sockets, the other 50% not. Also I wouldn´t say that piggypack-updates are very common in Europe (ok, I can only talk about the german users). Most users prefer expansions for built-in, and there exists two wide spreaded solutions: The Compyshop 256 KB expansion and Klaus-Peters "mega-RAM" versions (3 major types with 256 or 1024 KByte). All of them incl. the Compyshop expansion need to remove one RAM chip and (Compyshop) one of the LS158 address mux chips and a PCB is plugged in. Then some wires must be connected. Because the access to US sources in the 80s was not easy, only a few nerds use sources from overseas. Some solutions here in germany (ABBUC Ram-Disk, Atari-Magazin Ram-Disk) based on your Quarter-MEG solution or similar US ones. And, Compyshop & Klaus-Peters delivers good instructions in local language for all XL/XE variants. So there was no really need for piggy-packing. All of these expansions also offers the ANTIC/CPU seperated access - a lot of users thinks in the 80s this feature is a "must have". Today we know a different story. Maybe the east-european market has different expierences...