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This is one way, but also there are a lot of non-Freddie mainboards with BASIC "C" in the wild. The much easier way is to use a S-Video monitor cable. All Freddie-based 800 XL (called "XLF") mainboards have Chroma on pin 5 like every XE mainboard. So if you connect a S-Video monitor cable and get color - it´s a Freddie-based 800 XL.

I have 2-3 mainboards "XLF" (PAL) with Freddie in my basement. If you want, I can check one. Let me know

Hi Sebastian, As someone who also realizes HW projects I can fully agree. On the other side... you´re IMHO an absolutely trustworthy person in the community. So I haven´t any problems to sent the money (for example 75 USD for now, rest - if needed - when you´re ready to ship) now and wait half a year. Or 10 months. I know you make it, and as a father of 4 I know also that real-life is more important than all. Just want let you know this, and I think, I´m not the only one in the community feeling this way. BR Jurgen

Hi Mauricio, contact the user "danwinslow" here on AtariAge. Maybe he has one to offer . There are a lot of memory expansions out there. One of the best and most easiest way to built-in is the Ultimate 1 MB. This expansion has 1 MB of extended memory, switchable operating systems, basic-roms, internal SpartaDOS X and a RTC (Real Time Clock). You don´t need to drill holes in your case for switches, it has a BIOS like you know it by modern PCs. And FJC´s new BIOS is a jewel for that - for fee. Most times the chips on an Atari XE mainboard aren´t in sockets, some solder work must be done (removal of MMU, OS-ROM). If you aren´t able to do by you yourself, some users here can help for sure - depending on the area you live. Jurgen

EXTENB alias CASINH isn´t the same like $D1xx. When the MIO (?) adapter assumed that, it´s wrong - so easy. EXTENB / CASINH is provided by MMU, low-active signal, goes LOW when DRAM shouldn´t be accessed in any way. When CASINH is low, then the CAS-signal forwarding to the DRAMs remains high - DRAM is not selected. RAS of course remains clocked, otherwise the DRAMs would loose their contents. D1XX on the XE ECI is directly connected to the 74LS138 address decoder and it´s also low-active. When any (!) access to the address are $D100....$D1FF is done, then this signal goes low. So these both signals aren´t the same thing.

Ok, the docs are not so clear in some things as I thought. But, when full compatibility to the few genuine 1090 is not mandatory... Then I would say: Let´s make a whole new thing or choose the "best of all". For example, +12 / -12v olts are only used back in the old days for serial communications (remind: 30 mA!). Enabling this will raise the costs. IMHO +5V and +12V are enough. For these both voltages cheap and good switching power supplies with 2...5 ampére are easy to get (external HDD power supplies etc.). Also, for modern expansions, a 2nd databus should be present - for high-speed communication of two cards without using the CPU - some like DMA. Together with some new handshaking signals supporting that. Imagine 3 or more cards in such a system must be polled by the 6502 CPU... this could be end up in a bottleneck issue. I suggest to write a proof of concept and then a call for discussion. Maybe on a seperate website or wiki. This forum is not the best place for something like that. Jurgen

EXTENB at the XL PBI is 100% the same like CASH_Inhibit. This signal is controlled by MMU and, if low, disables any access to the internal main memory. CAS_Inhibit is set to low (active low signal) and disable DRAM access when... ... a cartridge is signaling "present" and should be accessed, ... internal BASIC is enabled and should be accessed, ... the OS-address space should be accessed, ... MPD should be accessed, ... a DRAM refresh cycle is active (controlled by ANTIC) The last behavior is the most important thing why this signal is provided as an output to the PBI. To fully claim the system´s buss, the evaluation of this signal is needed. The way like all TurboFreezer and Sys-Check did it, by dragging down the REF signal, wasn´t intended by Atari Jurgen

Some words to this discussion... all of you brainstorming about finding new assignments for "unused" pins at the PBI... look at page 10 of the document uploaded by Lenore. You can read: Pins 1,10,19,29,30,32,42,45,50 are Ground (GND). Pins 33,47,48 are +5 Volts. Pin 37 is -12 Volts. Pin 39 is +12 Volts. So IMHO any further discussion isn´t productive. These "free three pins" are used in different ways. Too much risk. The only thing I would approve is the use of HALT at pin 33 and of course +5 volts at 47 and 48. If somebody uses a real 1090, the pin 33 is +5V and nothing will be damaged. I agree with Mathy, none of the actual hardware developer would rely on the fact that any "unused" pins are assigned with any signals. Today nobody uses TTL-chip graves anymore, it´s absolutely easy to generate own signals for D1xx and so on, making a project compatible to ALL computers with ALL ports. The only signal interesting and which couldn´t be substituted is HALT. My 2 cents... Jurgen

Sure. It´s a tiny circuitry using one half of a Dual Monoflop, i.e. 74LS123 or 74HCT123. Goal of this thing is to create a shortened PHI2 high phase. Normally all chips on a 6502 buss system should be synchronised to PHI2. If PHI2=1, data/adresses are valid. This is the theory In real life there are some special conditions and combinations of CPU and other chips, which hasn´t a exact PHI2 timing. So the CPU changes datalines for example 10-20 ns before PHI2 goes low. Modern, fast SRAMs, Flashchips and so on then will take the wrong data, because they sample the data hold on the databus until the last few nanoseconds. Generating a shortened PHI2 phase prevents all write accesses from that behavior. Standard PHI2 phase at 1,77/1,79 MHz is something around 260-280 nS. With this circuitry the new "PHI2S" high phase is only about 170 nS. This is absolutely long enough for all SRAMs, Flashchips and so on produced in the last 20 years. So if the logic of the new project uses /WE = PHI2S AND /RW, then no wrong data will be written. Read accesses should be synchronised with /OE = PHI2 AND RW. I didn´t know who really make this little circuitry first, but it´s very helpful and mostly all expansions with Flashchips and/or external RAM make use of this. Jurgen P.S.: If you ever use this and make the usual correct way of connection unused inputs of the other half to ground or +5V, NEVER do this with C and R/C of the Monoflop! One of these are internally connected directly to GND or VCC - this will make your PCB burn. There´s no real standard, Hitachi differs from TI - I have learned this the hard way...

Hmmm... 1000 ohms for a tiny SMD led is normal. They need most only 2 mA current to light up. And here could be the issue... what kind of LED you try to connect? A standard LED with wires? If it´s not a special one, they need approx 20 mA to light. Maybe 12...15 mA is enough. But 1000 ohms at 5V or 3,3V (often used at these adapter cards) could be too much. For example: A standard red 3 mm or 5 mm diameter "THT" LED draws 18 mA current, operating at 5V the resistors should have 220 ohms. When power is 3,3V, the resistor should have 100 ohms. Maybe you check that and try a less valued resistor or a special 2 mA low current standard LED. Jurgen

Ok, then all is fine. Pin 2 = ground, so if you cut the connection between pin 2 (the "middle one") and pin 5 that´s fine. You mentioned SCART... do you have ever tried successfully (!) a S-Video output on your TV or monitor? S-Video is not a real official thing using SCART connectors. Some TVs accept it, some not. Because Luma contains the synchronisation signals, a B/W picture is shown, but Chroma (color signal) is ignored. In some cases a special setting in the TVs menu is needed. Or, if the TV has more than one SCART jack, S-Video works only at one specific SCART input. You´ve to test all possibilities.

The interlock switches alternating current, the heatsink is connected to DC ground. So you´ve short-circuited AC voltage to ground... it´s you luck that most of the parts in an Atari 400 are good old NMOS chips... CMOS wouldn´t have survive such an attack When the system is running fine, I suggest to inspect all parts carefully. Specially the electrolytic capacitors. The noises... came out of the system or television/monitor? Maybe it was only the 50/60 Hertz buzzing came from the internal speaker or transmitted via RF to the television. Examine the capacitors on the power PCB. If any of the caps are looking like in the pictures below or any fluid is visible around the caps, replace them. Or buy a new power PCB... Jurgen

Was the DIN 5 monitor jack already installed? Then you should have a PAL computer. At this model, the pin 5 is connect to ground - then you always get a b/w picture. Look at the thread Showstring mentioned in post #8. Follow the instructions and cut the path between pin 5 and ground:

Hmm, my 2 cents... Don´t change too much. In the last 20 years most of the hardware expansions, enhancements and patches I know of will get instable if trying to change elementary things on the system bus. For example, the "PHI2 patch" (using the unused AND gate (74LS08) to combine PHI2 and PHI0) helps for SOME issues, but also is the source of trouble for NEW issues with special combinations of different expansions. Specially when mixing new technologies (CPLD, FPGA) and old parts some strange issues may occur when patching around the system timings and so on. It´s better to use compatible ways, for example for write access to modern chips, flashes and so on using a shortened PHI2 phase (74xx123 solution), für read access correct driving /OE with PHI2 combined and so on. When the logic is correct and the 6502 system bus parameters hit, then such an expansion works in ANY system (in normal condition). This is easier for developer and user. Jurgen

I overlooked this thread - sorry. Didn´t know that an explicit manual exists. Jurgen

Congrats, it´s a fine tool, I use it for or after every repair (endless loop tests). If you didn´t know (I didn´t know and seached a long time for this information) the full manual and all informations for this test fixture and the error codes are found only in the Atari 600 XL Field Service Manual... Jurgen

The 400 computer has of course a audio signal on it´s main PCB. The new CPU card just grab this signal from two points (junction R161/C164 Atari 400 mainboard, junction R167/C181 Atari 800 mainboard) and forwards it to the new monitor jack. This is only needed for the 400 or 800, if external monitor jack will be used. Jurgen

Hi, I set up a order list where every order and payment status is tracked. Will keep it up to date every 24h once or more until 01/22. View list here: http://www.van-radecke.de/SuperColorCPUCard/SCCC_order.txt If anything is wrong at the order list, please contact me. Thanks! Jurgen

I will make it possible in the final PCB layout

Yes, I´ve tested it and it works flawless. I forget to mention in my 1st post: On the backside of the PCB (where no components are placed) there are two solder pads for "IRQ" and "HALT", the two signals which must be grabbed from the CPU card for Incognito. Jurgen

Yes, indeed. When I draw the first schematics for this card, I planned to try to make it work together with an VBXE. Technically I was sure to found a solution creating the EXTSEL and CASINH signals needed by VBXE. Some mods to the 800 mainboard and the personality mainboards should have be done. But I discard this in the further development due to the following: - The VBXE PCB won´t fit together with the CPU card in the metal assembly of the 800 computer - For the 400 it´s totally impossible without huge changes to the main PCB - ... most significant reason: VBXE can´t be used really useful with an 400/800 operating system (see below) VBXE would work technically flawless with an old 400/800 operating system, but most of the software not. The modern type of memory expansions using PORTB ($D301) can´t used on a 400/800 PCBs without heavy mods. To make VBXE work fine, also a new personality board must be created or an Incognito must be present. Maybe there are 1, 2 users out there who would purchase something like this... but spending nearly 300 bucks (all together) to make an Atari 800 work like a modded 800 XL for half the price... I think this wouldn´t be a burner Jurgen

Hi Jon, is this faulty CPU a Synertek one? In the last 20 years I´ve repairing Atari computers dead or faulty CPUs are the second place in my personal "failure list" - 1st place was bad memory. In my "defects" drawer over 10 Synertek CPUs have their last habitat. Mostly out of the 600XL models. My suggestion for this accumulation of faults is a.) the manufacturer itself and b.) the less free space in a 600XL. Specially in the 600XL the CPU can reach 5-8 degrees Celsius more than in all other Atari computers. Second, the Synertek ones always getting up to 10 degrees Celsius warmer than Rockwell or NEC CPUs. Only the rar MOS one beat them. So it´s possible, than just one transistor got a defect - and maybe this one fails only in a combination forced by the BASIC. Nothing is impossible Jurgen

Hi, some years ago I gave a promise to an ABBUC member to make a video-out solution for his Atari 400 without the need of changing parts, scratching conducting paths or any other destructive mod to his Atari 400. He´s a real "hardcore" collector with no way in give-and-take regarding this point. After tinkering around with an "add-on" PCB for the GTIA socket I failed, because there´s not enough space. Of course - from a collector´s view - it´s a No-Go to remove the metal cabinet, so I decide to create a complete new CPU board with the needed components directly on it. I´ve reached the goal by 99%. A very little bit of soldering is required and the need to drill one hole into the metal assembly - the shielded video cable needs a place to break out, there´s no way else than making a new 5 mm hole somehwere in the upper part of the metal assembly. So here´s my solution: The Super Color CPU Card for Atari 400 and Atari 800 systems This PCB is a complete replacement for the original CPU card in any Atari 400 or 800 using PAL or NTSC. This PCB works NOT with SECAM. You are able to use both CPU-types found in the Atari 400 and Atari 800 series, the standard 6502B MOS CPU (without HALT signal) and the Atari-specialized version 6502C, also called "Sally". Chips (CPU, ANTIC and CTIA or GTIA) are not included and must be pulled of the built-in Atari CPU card. But they are always in sockets, so it´s easy. Circuitry on this PCB is nearly 100% the same like at the genuine Atari CPU card with some changes to make it possible to use both CPU types. You only need to set five jumpers to select the desired CPU type. Addiitonal the PAL color clock generation circuit is onboard for PAL systems. There´s a seperate jumper to select PAL or NTSC - this jumper connects the GTIA "PALC" pin to either the output of the PAL color clock generator or directly to 3,57 MHz system clock (NTSC). Only for clarifying this: You can´t just switch the jumper and make a NTSC system to a PAL computer or vice versa. At least you´ve to change ANTIC, GTIA and of course the system clock crystal at the mainboard At least a third jumper block (not existing an the prototype shown on the picture above) enables/disables the 75 Ohm termination resistors for Luma, Chrominance or CVBS output. This setting must be tested depending on the connected monitor or television - sometimes the picture quality is better with, sometimes without termination resistors. The video out solution is based on the Atari 800 XL video circuitry without mixing Luma and Chroma together. Of course the well-known mods are already integrated. The final signals are amplified and filtered by the Fairchild FMS6410 VideoAmp. This chip also generates the CVBS signal. So you can use either S-Video (Y/C) for best picture quality or CVBS for common monitors and televisions which doesn´t accept S-Video (Y/C) input. Please notice: This video solution can´t performing magic. I test it on different computer monitors and televisions. The best performance - as ever in every setting with old computers - will be shown on CRT (tube) monitors or televisions. Of course for Atari 400 owners EVERYTHING is better than the antenna (RF) output, but don´t expect a higher quality than the regular Atari 800 S-video output. It might be better, but I can´t promise. That´s impossible by the dozens of different monitors, cables, T.V. systems and so on. Scope of delivery One PCB "Super Color CPU Card" for Atari 400 or Atari 800 computers, capable using 6502B or 6502C CPU, runs on PAL or NTSC systems A manual (illustrated installation instructions) in german and english (sent by email with shipping out notice) One DIN connector 5 pin to lead out the video signals (optional for Atari 800 users) approx 50 cm shielded cable for video out approx 50 cm shielded cable for internal audio connection (optional for Atari 800 users) I offer two versions of the PCB "Standard" = Full populated (except Atari custom chips) PCB, standard HASL surface (as shown in the picture above) "Gold" = Full populated (except Atari custom chips) PCB, gold-finished (ENIG) surface (like my Sys-Check and many other solutions) The ENIG (gold-finished) surface is more rugged against rust and fouling. Because the naked PCB price doubles when choosing ENIG at this board size, I offer two versions. Prices One "Standard" PCB = 48 Euros each One "Gold" PCB = 59 Euros each Registered and insured shipping 1 or 2 piece(s) worldwide = 9 Euros Registered and insured shipping 3 or 4 pieces worldwide = 12 Euros More than 4 pieces or specialized = please ask Info: After some bad experiences with some postal services I only ship insured now. Time schedule I will collect orders and payments until the end of January, the 22.th 2017 (GMT) At the end of January I will order the parts and PCBs Assembling and shipping out can take up to 6 weeks, because there´s no holidays for me, assembling will be done in my spare time Depending on shipping time you will get your PCB(s) in March or April 2017 - This is the worst case, but I won´t promise things I can´t realize. So this is a safe suggestion. First payment, first serve: I can´t make all PCBs at one time, so small batches will be made. Date & Time of cleared payment sets the order of shipping out Please sent me a PM (personal message) or leave a post in this thread. You will get an answer soon. Practical hints for Atari 400 users The Atari 400 hasn´t any S-Video/CVBS output and no standard monitor jack, just an antenna (RF) cable. This cable is replaceable, so the best way is to remove the whole cable. You can use the hole in the case where the antenna cable was now for the new video out cable. At the end a standard DIN 5 pin connector coupling is applied. You can use ANY standard CVBS or S-Video cable made for any Atari XL or XE (or the Atari 800) to connect your Atari 400 to a monitor or television. The sound signal must be clamped from the main PCB. Nothing is destructive, only two solder drops at the mainboard of your Atari 400 must be made and one hole with ~5 mm diameter must be drilled in the metal cage for leading the video cable out. Practical hints for Atari 800 users Remark: The Atari 800 has already a quite good video output (S-Video). The CVBS output ranges something in the middle of existing video solutions. The need of my Super Color CPU card isn´t really mandatory for an Atari 800 owner, but it CAN improve video quality. Of course without any promises. I repeat that to make this point of view clear for all interests. The first option is to go ahead like the Atari 400 user. Replace the antenna cable with the new video cable. The existing monitor connector is always out of function when replacing the Atari CPU card with my Super Color CPU Card. Second option for Atari 800 users is to use the existing monitor jack with the new Chroma, Luma and CVBS signal. For this purpose the best way is to bend away the three connections from the mainboard to the power-PCB transmitting these three signals. This is reversible, non-destructive and needs only four additional drops of solder at the monitor jack. The manual will show how to do and also point at the junctions where to grab the audio signal, too. If you want, the external monitor DIN 5 pin coupling connector is already soldered. Leave your wish with your order, otherwise I will ask when confiming your payment. Any questions? Feel free to ask Jurgen

Hi Adam, here are my votes: 1. Dimo's Quest 2. Bomber 3. Jim Slide 4. Toy'Swap 5. D.I.T.C.H.

Yes, that´s why I suggest to connect the pin 1s to GND or +5V. This degrades the 41256 to 4164 in a simple way. Jurgen