Here is a very nice how-to-install your UAV in an 800XL:
The online manual from The Brewing Academy (Rev. 1.94) is an important resource as well but it's taken me a while to comb through all the details in these threads to help clarify parts of the manual...
Some feedback for @MacRorie and advice for others who will be installing their UAV in an A8:
1. The manual could use some larger photos and texts from Bryan's posts regarding UAV Color Adjustment (page 48):
The dark blue noise in the painted area in the top right quadrant mandates an adjustment of the trim pot!
I didn't notice this at first but when I put the image on a large LCD and looked closely at my screen caps from the El Gato capture stick I used, it was obvious that the default setting had to be tweaked after installation.
Running Bryan's test app above (uav.xex) is essential. Just running a few games looks great right away because the UAV is so awesome but when you start to deal with artifacts, the lack of tuning immediately jump out at you.
2. It would be useful to include uav.xex in the TBA download package for the manuals. I realize that it's linked inside the manual:
Here's my UAV composite output before adjusting the trim pot:
After: notice that the bars that make up the wavy column on the far left are all visible and the larger horizontal bars have all had the noise dialed out.
Same goes for S-Video. Before:
Tuning is a turn-and-watch process but this how much mine needed to be adjusted (I've added the orange dots so you can more easily see how much it moved):
3. The reason for all the kits on the product page was somewhat confusing until I tried to fit the RF shield. Bryan posted a photo of two types of shields on the 800XL:
4. The kit includes a socket but it would be nice to include a lower profile socket to help with height issues. Stacking on top of the CD4050 at U20 isn't going to work with the default socket included in the kit. Maybe not even with the one that just skims the logic board.
5. I put kapton tape on the headers for the jumpers so they don't accidentally short out on the RF shield (see above).
6. Some monitor jacks can’t easily be soldered to on the backside in order to attach the chroma signal so you have to route the wires to the underside of the logic board. Care has to be taken to route the wires ahead of the reinstallation of the shield. I bent the shield a little here and there for clearance.
7. There are two separate pads on the UAV PCB for picking up power/ground from the socket. Bryan recommends splitting the pads and running power directly and ground to the UAV for best results.
In this trace, 5V (yellow) is taken from Vdd on the U20 socket. Ground (pink) is taken from R66 where you wire the UAV to ground location as per the steps in the manual:
In this second trace 5V (yellow) is taken at the power switch and ground (pink) at Pin 3 of the DIN-5 monitor jack. Big difference:
After cutting both pads and applying 5V from C3 and ground from Pin 3 on the monitor jack, this is a far better power supply being fed to the UAV:
8. There is an unlabelled jumper position on the PCB (not silkscreened) that flips the artifact colours from red/blue back to purple/green just like the stock 800Xl composite output.
I couldn't quite figure out why some games just looked odd to me. This detail is somewhat buried early on in the manual in the Quickstart and forgotten later:
The banding in these screenshots is before I adjusted the trim pot...
Composite default artifacting:
Composite reversed artifacting (with the jumper installed):
9. The kit is lacking this extra small jumper and all the other jumpers are required for the base UAV configuration. Of course the jumper I had on hand bumped into the RF shield! This would be nice to include.