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ratwell

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About ratwell

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    Star Raider

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    Male
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    Victoria, BC
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    Former Sysop of ATASCII EXPRESS! and The Realm of Chaos BBSes. Former member of G.C.A.C.E.
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    Boulderdash
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    see currently playing and repeat forever.

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  1. This should be corrected to say PIN 2 (GND) not PIN 3 which is audio.
  2. Here's an updated set of images after calibrating the UAV composite and S-Video outputs using the trim pot:
  3. The motherboard is sitting high in that photo above looking at the edge connector:
  4. It runs in the emulators when set to PAL and 400/800 CTIA/GTIA Artifacting: However, when I tried Atari 800 (16K) to simulate an Atari 400 w/ 16K, it didn't load. Do you have any way to boost the RAM? I run it with AVGCART but sometimes it doesn't load for me (still trying to figure out what I've done wrong) so I ran FJC's s2loader3.car on AVGCART to run the executable: https://atari8.co.uk/firmware/avg/
  5. Here is a very nice how-to-install your UAV in an 800XL: http://atariprojects.org/2021/01/02/purchase-and-install-an-ultimate-atari-video-uav-for-better-composite-video-from-an-800xl-1-3-hours/ The online manual from The Brewing Academy (Rev. 1.94) is an important resource as well but it's taken me a while to comb through all the details in these threads to help clarify parts of the manual... Some feedback for @MacRorie and advice for others who will be installing their UAV in an A8: 1. The manual could use some larger photos and texts from Bryan's posts regarding UAV Color Adjustment (page 48): The dark blue noise in the painted area in the top right quadrant mandates an adjustment of the trim pot! I didn't notice this at first but when I put the image on a large LCD and looked closely at my screen caps from the El Gato capture stick I used, it was obvious that the default setting had to be tweaked after installation. Running Bryan's test app above (uav.xex) is essential. Just running a few games looks great right away because the UAV is so awesome but when you start to deal with artifacts, the lack of tuning immediately jump out at you. 2. It would be useful to include uav.xex in the TBA download package for the manuals. I realize that it's linked inside the manual: https://www.thebrewingacademy.net/uav_xex.zip Here's my UAV composite output before adjusting the trim pot: After: notice that the bars that make up the wavy column on the far left are all visible and the larger horizontal bars have all had the noise dialed out. Same goes for S-Video. Before: After: Tuning is a turn-and-watch process but this how much mine needed to be adjusted (I've added the orange dots so you can more easily see how much it moved): 3. The reason for all the kits on the product page was somewhat confusing until I tried to fit the RF shield. Bryan posted a photo of two types of shields on the 800XL: 4. The kit includes a socket but it would be nice to include a lower profile socket to help with height issues. Stacking on top of the CD4050 at U20 isn't going to work with the default socket included in the kit. Maybe not even with the one that just skims the logic board. 5. I put kapton tape on the headers for the jumpers so they don't accidentally short out on the RF shield (see above). 6. Some monitor jacks can’t easily be soldered to on the backside in order to attach the chroma signal so you have to route the wires to the underside of the logic board. Care has to be taken to route the wires ahead of the reinstallation of the shield. I bent the shield a little here and there for clearance. 7. There are two separate pads on the UAV PCB for picking up power/ground from the socket. Bryan recommends splitting the pads and running power directly and ground to the UAV for best results. In this trace, 5V (yellow) is taken from Vdd on the U20 socket. Ground (pink) is taken from R66 where you wire the UAV to ground location as per the steps in the manual: In this second trace 5V (yellow) is taken at the power switch and ground (pink) at Pin 3 of the DIN-5 monitor jack. Big difference: After cutting both pads and applying 5V from C3 and ground from Pin 3 on the monitor jack, this is a far better power supply being fed to the UAV: 8. There is an unlabelled jumper position on the PCB (not silkscreened) that flips the artifact colours from red/blue back to purple/green just like the stock 800Xl composite output. I couldn't quite figure out why some games just looked odd to me. This detail is somewhat buried early on in the manual in the Quickstart and forgotten later: The banding in these screenshots is before I adjusted the trim pot... S-Video: Composite default artifacting: Composite reversed artifacting (with the jumper installed): 9. The kit is lacking this extra small jumper and all the other jumpers are required for the base UAV configuration. Of course the jumper I had on hand bumped into the RF shield! This would be nice to include. Enjoy.
  6. A kind soul sent me a pm with this info: Thanks!
  7. See this post for colour artifact variations between the different models:
  8. Results from upgrading 800XL to UAV Rev for the benefit of those wondering about the level of improvement (huge).
  9. RF modulators inside low-budget computers were made as cheaply as possible and by the millions. Splitting audio and video into separate signals to improve image quality always worked towards improving the image quality (composite -> s-video -> component -> etc) and reduce signal losses. Having said that, were these low-res games any less fun when played on a 1977 CRT? The blurring of low-res images was also somewhat helpful reducing the obvious pixelation now easily seen via emulators.
  10. With 250kg of cables to sell, I think it might be best to keep selling this Xbox designed cable into that market, as is. I’m more concerned that this cable is still being advertised as being fully shielded 7 months after this issue was raised and confirmed. https://lotharek.pl/productdetail.php?id=198 Highest possible quality cable (1,6 m long) fully shielded, made for : ATARI 8BIT Commodore 64 probably many more compatible @lotharek please update your product page or confirm that the cable has been replaced with an updated shielded version...thank you.
  11. The UAV upgrade is finally done. Thank you to everyone for recommending it. It's so worthwhile. - I split the ground pad on the PCB as recommended in the UAV manual (optional). - I unsoldered the CD4050. It took a lot longer than I thought it would using soldering braid and caring not to lift any traces or pads. - With the UAV installed the RF shield bulges a bit from the green terminal strip; no biggie. I don't see how I could stack the 16-pin socket on top of the CD4050 chip. - The monitor jack had leads that were quite recessed so I ended up soldering to the bottom of the jack rather than the back of it. Q: I have a replacement logic board which doesn't quite allow the monitor output jack to align with the opening in the case. I guess Atari changed this towards the end of the XL production run? Has anyone else run into this issue? Here are some screen captures from an 800XL -> RetroTink 2x Mini -> Elgato Cam Link. The stock S-Video in B&W is the giveaway it's an 800XL. I also managed to find an new RF switch box (CA010112) at a local video game store...so I connected its output through an old VCR to get a composite signal I could capture and include. While Stock RF is blurry and noisy compared to the stock composite, you can see how the UAV cleans up the artifacts in composite signal quite a bit. Whenever I install a SOPHIA I'll update these screen shots. CLICK to enlarge...
  12. I just tried it again using all combinations and it only fails with a divisor less than 8 so I must have had it set to a lower value at some point and forgot. Sorry for the false alarm.
  13. I only just formatted this card added a few files and tried these disk based versions of SpartaDOS but it’s clearly an issue when OSEXE2 is present. Perhaps someone can try it with the 0020 firmware and reproduce this issue: https://avgcart.tmp.sk/files/atari/avgcart-0020.zip
  14. SIO cable: I just wired up the cable and it’s working for other titles. I selected the disk with Shift-1, then Option-Return. I removed the OSEXE2 file and now it boots! The docs at De Re AVGCART suggest you can leave OSEXE2 and use SHIFT-RETURN to enable it but I had to remove it from the SD card altogether. https://atari8bit.net/tutorials/de-re-avgcart/
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