wood_jl
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Posts posted by wood_jl
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I'll have to chime in on this topic, but granted this is from a non-technical user's view.
Non-technical means I've never soldered fine electronics and would likely screw something up.
I'm also kind of poor at the moment, or I'd likely PAY SOMEBODY to fix up an XL to superior specs....
Having said that....
I'd go with the 130XE. Here's why:
(1) Has "proper" chroma/luminance outputs on the monitor port (as does the original 800) but the XL computers don't. This translates into S-Video output with no modifications, with $10 S-video cable from Ebay.
(2) It's an XL/XE - I think some of the later games (even ROM cartridges) need XL/XE to play. Archon on ROM?
(3) It has BASIC Rev. C built in - not the buggy Rev. B like an XL
(4) The extra memory - but I doubt I'll find use for it.
(5) The cartridge port on back takes getting used to, but doesn't scratch up like the metal doors on XL.
Drawbacks??
As many people attest to, there's some cheap build quality. I've read how cheap/thin the motherboard traces are. All the more reason I'd be afraid to attempt soldering/desoldering to it with no experience. Everything's soldered in. Cheap! But, since it has what I want in it already, and I don't know how to mod, it continues to work and serve me!
The keyboard, as many attest to, isn't the greatest. It's like an ST. However, back when it was my "main" computer that bugged me. Now I just toy with it and use a PC!! So I don't type much on it and never will.
It's a "Tramiel" era product....philosophically, I prefer Atari products before the Tramiel "aire of cheapness" but I must admit the 130XE, in all its cheapness, does what I ask of it and I don't have to mod it.
If you can solder/mod/etc (or afford to have one modded, and even KNOW WHO/WHERE to get it done) I'd go with 800XL (I think Hong Kong was better than Taiwan 800XL), get the missing signals back on the monitor port so you can do S-video and get BASIC REV C swapped in (may have to be unsoldered/socketed on motherboard) and a 256K (or whatever) memory upgrade.
If I could find one of those, I'd be happy with an 800XL. Alternative is to get a nice 130XE from Ebay for $40 which is what I did. When I get more money, I wouldn't mind buying a modded 800XL or paying someone to fix one up for me. I had one of these about 18 years ago (with those changes I've suggested) and I wish I still had it.
James Wood
Laramie, WY
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Ok, I'm somewhat of a newbie here. So I don't know if a general consensus has ever been reached as far as FIXING THOSE BLASTED 5200 CONTROLLERS.
An old friend - who has a 5200 from the original days of yore - asked me about it and I am curious myself. So SOMEBODY PLEASE TELL ME that there is some "perfected" way to upgrade the old controllers.
So I may pass this on to a (couple) old friends (we're in our crusty 30's now but remember when this stuff made its debut) tell me WHAT NEEDS TO BE DONE to make perfected 5200 controllers a reality. So maybe some money needs to be spent. Where?? I am wanting a 5200 alone just for STAR RAIDERS because I sorta like the way the controller lends itself to that title.......I digress.. any ideas about REALLY FIXING 5200 controllers for the "long haul?" I've been away - HAS THIS BEEN DONE?????????????????????
Thanks in advance, real enthusiasts!!
James Wood
Laramie, WY
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As I said in the private message, it's a reference to the James Woods episode of Family Guy. Don't get all wound up about it.http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-6...h&plindex=0
(Bah, jokes are never funny when you have to explain them...)
Also, calling people "fluffer" and telling them they have HIV probably isn't too smart. I'll chalk this up to a misunderstanding but let's not try that again.
Ok, point taken.
Assuming everyone knows the "Family Guy" reference probably isn't the wisest move ever, especially if you invoke their name directly. My apologies to you, then. Note I didn't call you anything in a public forum. Nonetheless, I apologize. Might I suggest you consider I didn't know your reference; but should I realistically be expected to?
Note to all: I'm simply here to chat up the facts. I'm really enthusiastic about video games, and I'd have to say - after all these years, especially so about getting back into Atari, which I can't believe I've been without for so many years.
I'd like to hear REAL 5200 OWNERS opinions, by the way. My friend (die-hard 5200 advocate) has me almost conviced. Star Raiders on 5200 (my opinion as non-5200 owner) is the BEST!!! The strategy of using residual momentum to enter a sector and "coast" towards your targets makes me want a 5200 just for that.
I withdraw my comments, but before you question my intelligence, I suggest you ask youself the question "What would you think" if the patron of creamy desserts was - unbeknownst to you - predicating some sort of humor using your real name, which you had balls enough to use in the first place.
I stand corrected.
James Wood
Laramie, WY
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He's... got... James Wood! And I've got James Wood, too!He's the "Patron Saint of Creamy Desserts".
Better watch out, but I'd have to have wear a body condom before I got around him.
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I would suggest that you get an Atari 8-bit computer - like 800XL or "XE Game System."
Functionally, they are equivalent to a 5200 (the 5200 itself was kind of an ill-fated derivative OF the 8-bit Atari), but without all the issues. I don't want to upset anybody with these observations - I sense a day in the future (when I'm not trying to go to school and can afford everything) when I will get a nice 5200 setup......but money IS an issue for me now and if it is for you, then an 8-bit Atari computer should fit in nicely.
The 8-bit computer plays the same games, but uses the 2600's controllers. That's the big coup for the casual gamer - the controllers. As far as I know, you **CAN** "fix" a 5200's notoriously troublesome and unreliable controller. ***SOMEONE FILL ME IN SINCE I'VE BEEN OUT OF IT FOR A WHILE*** But if you check such sites as "Best Electronics" for **ALL* the upgrades necessary to do it, it's going to cost you roughly $35 (more???) plus shipping just for the controller.
I picked up a MINT 130XE (the top 8-bit Atari computer) for $45. It has S-video built in (but need $12 cable from Ebay - but for 5200 you need a much more expensive/troublesome mod to get S-video (or composite)). The 130XE plays all the same games. It uses dime-a-dozen 2600 controllers.
I like the 5200 and want to learn MORE about how to "permanently" fix the controllers (if that's possible) but I have to advise that I think the 8-bit Atari computer is not only a fitting competitor for a 5200, but that it's actually cheaper. You'd have to get a 5200 (for whatever cost), then spend maybe $40 to get a "perfected" controller shipped to your door, then more for a video mod to get composite or (better yet) S-video output. You can get a cable on Ebay for $12 (I just did) for the 130XE. Not to mention the 130XE itself cost little more than a "perfected" 5200 controller (only) does....and it uses dirt-cheap 2600 controllers.
I don't dislike the 5200; I'd like to learn more about them and I think I'll get one for "the collection" but I'd be hard-pressed to not acknowledge the things I've said, and I wonder if anyone else wouldn't be as well.
James Wood
Laramie, WY
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Sorry to sound like a dumbass on this one....but I am unable to find an FAQ for dumbasses on this topic; I have been away from Atari-8s for >15 years and I am just getting back into it.Is there a remedial FAQ that describes - assuming no prior knowledge for those who've been away - EXACTLY what this does?
I assume this is a combination of a switchable, upgraded OS and an IDE hard disk interface? Forgive my surprise, but I can't believe you can interface IDE with an Atari8.
Is this through the cartridge port? Parallell bus? An internal mod?
There are a bunch of different MyIDE variants, so its understandably a little confusing. I'll try to run down the various versions.
The first MyIDE were both internal and cartridge boards made by Mr. Atari. Both were just IDE bus buffers with no ROM, you had to replace the OS with a special MyIDE-OS eprom in order to use the hardware.
Both of these upgrades have been discontinued. You can still find the old documentation and manuals for them at Mr. Atari's site, which is of some use since the new upgrades are just enhanced versions of the old ones and operate along the same lines.
After the old cartridge version of MyIDE was discontinued, the MyIDE+Flash cartridge was released. This is basically a cartridge version of MyIDE combined with a flash memory cartridge. This is currently the most popular and flexible version of MyIDE. The device is easily moved from computer to computer and the contents of the flash memory are easily upgraded.
There is quite a bit of software available for the cartridge version and it can be customized with various boot ROMs, xex/menu loaders, etc. There are some videos in the MyIDE+Flash documentation that might be useful for getting started. Also make an account on the MyIDE forum since there is a great deal of good information available there as well.
http://www.atarimax.com/flashcart/forum/
Since the internal MyIDE was also discontinued it was also updated, to include an integrated OS. This is the board that was recently released. It is not an n-in-1 OS upgrade like the Warp+ OS, but is flash programmable, so you can change the OS any time you want just by loading an XEX program to flash it.
All the original MyIDE documentation except the installation instructions can probably be applied to this board since it is essentially an update of that device, with the OS rom integrated into it.
If you don't intend to use the MyIDE hardware the board itself can still be used as a general purpose flash OS board on any XL/XE computer.
But for new users interested in MyIDE I'd recommend the MyIDE+Flash cartridge version over the internal, at least to get started.
Where does the hard drive go? 2.5 internal notebook drive in the case? External ribbon connector for external IDE drive with external power?Both the cartridge version and internal versions have standard 40-pin IDE host connectors. You can use a 3.5" -> 2.5" IDE adapter to mount a 2.5" drive. Powering a real drive requires adding a power connector inside the Atari to power it. I personally recommend using a IDE->CF adapter or IDE Flash module that can be powered off the cartridge/upgrade board itself.
SIO2PC still seems like a novelty to me. Now a USB version! The 8meg Flashcart seems to good to be true. I can really put a bunch of games on there myself? How many fit? IDE interface now? Seems I'm going to have to get some of this stuff after Christmas. 32 OS's in one? Good grief!The flash cartridge are user programmable so you can use the software kit to put whatever you like on them, though XEX/EXE/COM type games will work best. Some disk games can be done as well. How many depends on the size of the games, a 8mbit cartridge holds 1MB, which will probably work out to 40-50+ games per cart, again depending on what games you choose and how large the files are.
Is there a general FAQ that explains exactly WHAT all these products are for people who have been out of the loop for years? They all sound like things I'm interested in, but would like top-down description of them!!There was an upgrade FAQ at one time, I'm not sure if its up to date or even still available?
Steve
THANKS SO MUCH FOR A GREAT REPLY!!!!
I will definitely be doing business with you when I can get my hands on some money at the start of the new year.
Was ready to go with SIO2PC/USB but then my Trinitron died and I had no TV (no gaming either) so I had to crap out my only "extra" cash for a new TV.
Most appreciative,
James Wood
Laramie, WY
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-->I don't think it's feasible. The Gameboy Advance has a screen resolution of 240x160, whereas the Atari 2600 has a
-->screen resolution of perhaps 160x210, with most games having a screen size of about 160x192. The difference in the
-->pixel shapes and screen reolutions would make it impossible to create a decent emulated display. And I own a
-->Gameboy Advance, so believe me, I thought it would have been cool, too.
-->Yep, I had thought of that, too. But the pixel shapes would still be wrong, so the game screens would look very
-->distorted. Also, having to turn the GBA sideways would mean the controls would have to be read accordingly. I just
-->don't think it would be very feasible-- doable, perhaps, but not very good-looking, and probably too awkward to hold
-->and play.
You guys have seen the 2600 games on GBA Activision Classics, right?
If those look as good as they do, couldn't any?
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Sorry to sound like a dumbass on this one....but I am unable to find an FAQ for dumbasses on this topic; I have been away from Atari-8s for >15 years and I am just getting back into it.
Is there a remedial FAQ that describes - assuming no prior knowledge for those who've been away - EXACTLY what this does?
I assume this is a combination of a switchable, upgraded OS and an IDE hard disk interface? Forgive my surprise, but I can't believe you can interface IDE with an Atari8. Is this through the cartridge port? Parallell bus? An internal mod? Where does the hard drive go? 2.5 internal notebook drive in the case? External ribbon connector for external IDE drive with external power?
I glanced at the documentation, but it of course assumes you know what each of these products are already so you can understand they are combined.
SIO2PC still seems like a novelty to me. Now a USB version! The 8meg Flashcart seems to good to be true. I can really put a bunch of games on there myself? How many fit? IDE interface now? Seems I'm going to have to get some of this stuff after Christmas. 32 OS's in one? Good grief!
Is there a general FAQ that explains exactly WHAT all these products are for people who have been out of the loop for years? They all sound like things I'm interested in, but would like top-down description of them!!
Good lord, it's great to be back to Atari8!! I wonder if the Commodore 64 and Apple II people have this kind of development for their 8-bit platforms!
James Wood
Laramie, WY
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I would suggest using the Game Boy Advance SP - the last model with the BACKLIT screen [model AGS-101] and "Activision Classics."
I know it's not everything - and it's probably not what you want to hear - but if you don't feel like $300..... And there are a few good games on there.
I got mine at a pawn shop - in mint condition - for $35. Game was $10.
Hey, it works! At least it's SOME 2600 portable gaming and the battery life is great!
James Wood
Laramie, WY
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Looking for a 27" CRT? GOOD LUCK!!! Did your nice one break down yesterday and you think you can replace it easily? BWAAAAA HA HA HA HA!!! THINK AGAIN!!! Happened to me last week!
Several years ago I was in the market for a 27" CRT and looked and settled on a Trinitron KV-27something. I didn't see Toshibas where I was looking, but it was a choice between a Sanyo (low-boy then) and the Sony. This is before the "WEGA" stuff came out. I've always thought Trinitrons had great pictures, but were overpriced but got one anyway.
So last week my Trinitron took a dump and it was prohibitively expensive to repair. After doing some research on the web, I find that LOTS of people had trouble with their Trinitrons of the era. Seems they have a nice picture when they work, but the coax (tuning) was kind of flaky on mine for the past couple of years and finally the vertical scanning went out so I chucked it into the dumpster.
I went looking for a WEGA Trinitron (27" CRT is all I want) and I couldn't find one anywhere. So have to settle for a cheapie. Note I'm not interested in Hi-def yet. As appealing as the new stuff is, somehow the PS2/Xbox(1)/Gamecube and even Dreamcast graphics [i guess these are now "classic" systems] still look good to me and I have more games than I can ever play. Not mention PS1/Saturn/N64 won't improve on hi-def. Ditto SNES/Genesis. Ditto NES/2600. I have TONS of DVDs and I'm not buying any new-format movies. When the smoke all clears in future years - all channels are hi-def with no compromise and all standards have not only been established but have become dirt cheap - then I'm ready. I know I must seem like Grandpa, but just because something isn't the lastest technology doesn't INSTANTLY TRANSFORM IT INTO SHIT. I guess I can't help it if "regular" TV (a quality tube, mind you) still looks good to my defective eye.
Enter the Sanyo at Walmart. Over the past several years, I guess they've improved. I picked up a "HT27547" which is flat screen. It has the speakers on "the sides" like a WEGA. It's also BLACK which I like because the silver crap looks so "Krylon" to me. (the HT27546 was the store display and is cheap-o silver).
I must tell you I am impressed, for a cheapie. The picture is sharp and the colors are bright. For $270 I think it's a good deal because it appears to be high-end CRT even though I know it is not. Hell, I can't believe how clear the 2600's RF comes in - I didn't know how crappy my Sony's coax input was getting until I tried this. The 130XE through S-video looks smashing! There's also a component video input but I don't know why anyone would want to use it on a "low-def" TV. I can't imagine any improvement over S-video at this low resolution.
This unit also has a digital tuner so (if I understand correctly) it will pick up HDTV signals in 2009 and downgrade them to "shit" which is what I am accustomed to. I think a lot of TVs have that now.
The only other 27" CRT they had was an "ILO" brand that has the WORST REVIEWS I've ever seen. Even on Walmart.com the user reviews are universally bad - quits after 2 months, remote quits after a month, etc.
I can't believe what a dying breed the 27" CRT is. It was a choice between the Ilo or Sanyo. I suppose people look at little 19" fishbowls until they can put a LCD/PLASMA on the charge card.
When I was growing up, a 27" (CRT) was the "big" TV and as such, it's all I need. Too bad when this one pukes on me, I have a feeling I won't be able to buy one.
Guess I'll have to throw out all the light guns....no more Duck Hunt, Virtua Cop, Point Blank.
No way to get those to work on TVs that don't do a raster scan, is there?
I know a couple of people with BIG CRT's and to me, they are still desirable. One has a 36" Trinitron and the other has a 40" WEGA Trinitron. (The 40" even does 1080i). Man I wish they still made those.
The only other "larger" CRT they had at Wallyworld as a 32" ILO fishbowl. Do yourself a favor and google that brand before you buy anything of the name.
If you're looking for a cheapie 27" CRT available at Walmart, check out the HT27547 (or HT27546 in silver) because it works - and looks as good as - a $400 Trinitron....only you can't buy a $400 Trinitron or I might still have considered it.
I think you can still get Sharp and Sanyo in 32" models. I am not sure if you can get Sony in 32". Trouble is with CRT you're limited to what is available locally since nobody could afford to ship one.
James Wood
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Are you sure it's Netlink playable? I am not aware of this, and think I would have known about that....
I USED to have the game - then some jerk "borrowed" my Saturn games (back in the mod chip days - on a CD-R spindle) and I never got them back. Bet I won't make that mistake again, eh? [bought back many on Epay later]
I thought it was a tough game - and the handling was unforgiving. However, it was towards the end of the line and at that point I was happy to get ANYTHING new for Saturn.
Netlink though....hmmm.. I thought Bomberman, Duke Nukem, Daytona CCE, Sega Rally, and Virtual On were the only ones Netlink playable. I should know because I made it a point to have 2 copies of each, as well as 2 (actually 3) Saturns and 2 Netlinks in the collection so I could [presumably, one day loan one to a friend and hook up and play.
Where does it say it's Netlink compatible?
James Wood
Laramie, WY
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I played Atari at friend's houses because my miserly upbringing didn't allow for one for years. That, and spending the entire time at Sears (playing the Tele-games they had set up) - every time the folks went to the mall they never had to look for me since they knew they'd find me there which is likely one reason they never bought be a VCS.
In the early days it was (of course) Combat and Air-Sea battle. Later days I enjoyed Adventure, Maze Craze, Space Invaders, Warlords, Asteroids, Pitfall, Megamania.
Then I bought an Atari 400 (used of course, only 8K) and was shocked that the VCS carts didn't work in it. Never even dawned on me. But since one of the carts that came with it was Star Raiders, I got over it!
Later picked up a VCS at a garage sale so had the best of both worlds.
Can't believe I ever let go of all that stuff - hence I find myself scrounging up Atari junk once again; I'm glad SOMEONE held onto it so I can buy it back!!!
To this day I still like 2600 Space Invaders as much as any other version, even the real thing on retro-titles that include the actual arcade version. I also like 2600 Asteroids more than the 400/800/XL/XE, probably for the silly reason that it's colorful! I was disappointed in the Flashback2 changing it to "arcade asteroids" which just means less color!
I think Battlezone is the most visually appealing 2600 game I've ever seen and didn't see it until recently.
James Wood
Laramie, WY
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PLEASE DISREGARD THIS AS I BOUGHT A 130XE AND DON'T KNOW HOW TO DELETE THIS
IF ANYONE CAN TELL ME HOW TO DELETE A POST, I'D APPRECIATE IT. CAN'T FIGURE OUT.
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I must admit, I didn't really care whether or not my 2600 (recently got back into the scene) was a 6 or 4 switch model. My first Ebay 2600 didn't work, but my second did.
I was pleased to find that the top from the first fit on the second and converted my "Vader" to "Woody."
So then I'm playing "Star Raiders" clones (forgot which one now) and they use the difficulty switch to change from main view to galactic chart. I almost NEVER messed with the switches years ago in the original 2600 era.
So I find out my switches are flaky! I wonder if it's dirty in there? I haven't taken my 2600 back apart yet, but can someone tell me if the switches come apart for cleaning? Is it common for the 4-switch models to get dirt in the switches?
One thing for sure, the "sixer" difficulty switches would be SO MUCH easier to get to, now that I know games are going to make me use them often. The 4-switch model's switches SUCK and are hard to use when in a game.
I thought the "sixer" nostalgia was just that....nostalgia. Now I see there's practicality to them.
In the meantime, anybody know anything about cleaning/repairing these blasted 4-switch difficulty switches? Anybody ever have a similar experience?
Thanks.
James Wood
Laramie, WY
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Well, finally took the plunge again and bought my first 130XE (since 1985) on Ebay.
Been watching and asking questions on them until I finally found one at a reasonable price from a seller with good feedback on similar purchases, and a guarantee that it works.
What I can't believe is all the 8-bits on there where they're "untested." Especially the ones where there IS a power supply and video cable, or a standard RCA cable for RF output would suffice.
Have they no shame? Why don't they just list it as "broken" or "nonfunctional." I can't believe the number of sellers who sell stuff like that yet have no negative feedback.
I love the excuses - "won't hook up to my flat-panel HDTV so I can't test it."
Now, I'm an old CRT tube-man myself, but won't ANY new-tech TV (plasma, LCD, DLP etc) throw any image on the screen that comes in on RF channel 3? Surely they wouldn't sell TVs that won't easily hook to people's cable boxes (etc) that still largely hook to the TV over an RF connection.
I don't know anything about HDTV, so can someone "in the know" enlighten me? If you can't even hook an old Atari to a modern HDTV and get a picture over RF, then I guess I'll be cruising the thrift stores for CRTs until I die.
James Wood
Laramie, WY
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Found one more duplicate game in the stack - "Sonic 3D Blast" with manual, no case.
Thanks for looking!
James Wood
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(going to try to post a picture at the end of this diatribe)
I have too many Sega Saturns (4) and I want an Atari 8-bit. So I dug out a couple and one has some scratches (damnit - worthless so I'll keep it) and the other is beautiful that I had wrapped in bubble wrap for years. It is in EXCELLENT condition - this is NO BEAT UP SYSTEM. I was into modding these about 10 years ago and got extras, and hardly used them - even the modded ones since I played (gasp) Playstation all the time.
Not here to sell you on the merits of this system, just have a very nice example of one. If you know what this is and are a player or collector of such (as am I) then you know what I mean.
Now, before you read further, here's what I want: Original beige Atari 800, 48K, in EXCELLENT condition. GTIA chip. Basic cart would be nice, of course a power supply. Or, 130XE in similar form. Not interested in XL. Some kind of video hookup would be nice. If you're a real collector and could throw in an SIO cable would be nice - I am trying to get back into by beloved first computer with APE/SIO2PC (or whatever that stuff is). That's it. No software, controllers, or extras - just a nice, working computer.
Ok, here's what I have:
Sega Saturn console - newer version with round buttons.
One "original" 6-button controller that still has the cord wrapped in the original tie.
One "3D Nights" (analog) controller - excellent conditon - clean and not at all worn.
Power and composite cables (of course).
Owner's manual - includes "Sega Saturn" stickers!!! (oh boy)
One off-brand (but new in the torn-up box (yeah!)) RF adapter. Big deal.
ONE GAME - "NBA Action 98." Very vintage I'm not "selling out" of Saturn so I'm keeping my games but had 2 of these. Game and manual, no case (Saturn cases are WAAAAY too big and got rid of them long ago). Very old, but the late Chick Hearn announces and calls the plays!
3 "sampler" discs that at least let you play a level of Sega Rally, Panzer Dragoon, and "Nights Into Dreams." I know these are lame, but like I said I'm not selling my games, so at least you can play with them until you order games (which are CHEAP for this system, BTW).
Not sure how to work this. I'm no sucker, but if I could be convinced that someone (1) REALLY Had what I was looking for (2) Was trustworthy and had some history here and a reputation/vouchers, I could be talked into sending first; I understand that I am new here and have none.
However, you may take a look at my feedback on ebay:
http://myworld.ebay.com/wood_jl/
.......and you'll see that I recently sold a couple of Nintendo consoles and got good feedback. They're the only things I've ever sold.
On Amazon.com
http://www.amazon.com/gp/help/seller/at-a-...=A3RKYZYP4GD27N
.....you'll see that I have 72 ratings as a seller, but recently got a bad one.... Some BUTTHOLE gave me 1 out of 5 on a CHEAP game that I sent him and the mailman left it outside (on top of the apartment box) and he got pissed because it could have been stolen. My fault? HE STILL GOT IT AS DESCRIBED, CHEAP, AND FAST SHIPPING!!! I would have refunded if he never got it, as I have before. Of course, it's all my fault because I didn't do my part. Look at the other 71 ratings. Not to mention the myriad who didn't leave feedback because they often don't on Amazon.
Anway, I'm not out to screw anyone, but I really want a nice 800, and I think this is more than a fair trade for someone who has too many 8-bit Ataris and wants another Saturn. Maybe we can talk about a deal!
James Wood
Wyoming
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I'm interested in one for the little PS-One combo unit with the little screen - so I can take backups of my PS-One games with me on the road and not worry about trashing my sacred disc collection.
I remember these were popular a few years back, but I'm sure there's not much interest anymore.
Do these use the same chips as the older (larger) Playstation (1)?
Many of the sites that still come up when you Google this inquiry seem dead or nearly so.
Thanks.
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Being fairly new here, I'm always at the risk of asking something for the millionth time.
I did search the forums unsucessfully for this.
How does one clean the cartridge slot in a 2600? The cartridges look easy enough to hit with a q-tip and some isopropyl alcohol. But the cartridge slot looks difficult.
Anybody remember the "cleaning kit" for the old Nintendo? It was something like thick cardboard (or similar paper product I think) and it was thick like a PCB end of the cart and you wet it with solution (likely isoprop) and inserted it a few times. It was the right thickness to do the job.
Is there any way to do this to the 2600 with commonly (read: at walmart etc) products?
Any tricks to cleaning carts? I have a pile of new (to me) carts that I'm going to clean this weekend!
I'm so happy to be 2600 gaming again!!! I combined my broken Ebay Woody with a working Ebay Vader so now I have the look that I wanted and it works!!! The video looks pretty good, too! Afraid I'll mess it up unless I clean everything!
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I'm a long-time console gamer. Done PC gaming on a limited extent.
What I traditionally thought were the strenghts of console gaming (back as far as 2600 etc) was that when you bought the game, you OWNED IT FOR LIFE.
I kind of see a chasm between the "last gen" systems (PS2/Gamecube/Xbox1) and the new systems.
Whether Atari 2600, NES, Sega Genesis, Super Nintendo, Playstation, Saturn, Dreamcast, Playstation 2, and Xbox(1), when you bought the game (even used at a pawn shop for $6) you OWNED THE GAME outright.
Now, it seems that they're hellbent on SELLING YOU HALF A GAME and then they'll sell you the rest online.....only it's NOT PERMANENT what additions you buy.... When your console dies, or you change consoles, you lose everything you've bought.
That's kind of how it was with PC gaming, in my limited experience. A game would work with Win95 and DirectX 4 but then curiously wouldn't work with the next version of Windows and its corresponding DirectX version.
Don't you see this happening with the current consoles? Sell you half a product and force you to pay extra to obtain the content that should have (and was last-gen) included on the disc??
Oh, multiplayer works now UNTIL WE TAKE THE SERVER DOWN and then you need to buy a new version.
You wanna know the pinnacle of FREE online multiplayer? SEGA SATURN NETLINK!!!! No server, no bullshit. Put in the phone number of your friend and CONNECT!!!! So they can't do this now? Coulnd't you (if they wanted you to be able to) specify the IP address of your friend and FOREGO THE SERVER AND ITS LIMITED LIFE ALTOGETHER??? Of course you'll never be able to, because they're able to BUILD OBSOLESCENCE INTO YOUR GAME from the start by requiring all this SERVER HORSESHIT that is always dated.
Anybody who knows more than I do (most of you) please chime in and make me feel better about the situation, but I wonder what you can say.
I really would like to hear some other opinions on this, for I don't purport to have it all figured out, but I can't help but make this observation on the console market.
Any thoughts??? Please be kind.
J. Wood
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$70 worth (well, $50 but $70 to me with shipping) of Atari 2600 JUNK THAT DOESN'T WORK.....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...N:IT&ih=018
DON'T BUY CONSOLES ON EBAY!!!
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I don't know jack, but I assumed they were pretty reliable, as has been my experience with most consoles that have no moving parts. NO???
All I want is a GOOD (looking) 2600, woodgrain, 4-switch ok, THAT WORKS!!! Is that hard to find? I would also like S-Video/Composite out added. That might be asking a bit
So I bid on Ebay - for one "with the box" and "everything that was in the box". It comes with a few games. The left side of the box is all ripped up (flaps gone), no packing material. Everything's thrown in the box, but with some bubble-wrap. The ebay picture of the box (in the background) carefully cropped the ragged end on the edge of the frame. The box isn't that important, but the assumption is the system isn't banged up because the box is there. WRONG!
So the system is filthy, and it looks like someone took a knifeblade and shaved a little plastic off the right side. Just some ugly notches but couldn't see it in the pic. OH, no switchbox! Can't run to the store like you did in the 80s and get one. So I take a few coax adapters and (and twist some wires) hook it up - either a black screen or vertical bars and random noise from the sound chip. Great, it's DOA and sending it back is prohibitively expensive.
One joystick ok, the other worn out and the rubber falls off. Good thing I suspected this and ordered Flashback 2 sticks from igg1na.
Allright! And it only cost me $20 shipping!!! So may as well go in the trash, save for a few carts. At this point, sending it back means I'd lose the paddle controllers, 1 joystick, and several good games. I'd only clear a few dollars after I PAY SHIPPING BOTH WAYS and get my refund. I guess I'll keep the stuff and shitcan the console. EBAY SUCKS for buying consoles for this very reason. I'd never done it before. I CAN'T IMAGINE PEOPLE BUYING XBOX360/PS3 (etc) from Ebay because of this. IT'S INCUMBENT UPON BUYER TO PAY SHIPPING BOTH WAYS WHEN THEY GET SCREWED????
What I want is a nice one with S-Video. So rather than pay shipping 4 ways (from seller to me (assuming seller isn't completely full of shit and I don't end up like I am now), to modder and back), don't places sell pre-modded, clean, tested, like-new 2600s? Maybe even stripped systems with no controllers/etc for people just looking to upgrade?
In this day of Playstation 3, would it be that expensive?
Thanks for listening to the rant. I feel better now.
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I'm new here, so I hope this isn't beating an old horse; I tried to search for an old thread on this and couldn't find one.
Is it a common hack to add composite (dare I ask for S-video) output to a 2600? I like the fact that the Flashback 2 has this and no screwing with RF.
I also wish my NES (the newer top-loading model) had composite. The newer NES is touted as so great but they deleted the composite video out!! Makes me want to find another old one.
Any pointers greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
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Which Atari 8 bit computer is best overall?
in Atari 8-Bit Computers
Posted
Back towards the end of the 8-bit heyday (late 80's/early 90's) I had a modded 600XL that I wish I still had. Scott Peterson (who was known for 320K/576K/1088K 130XEs) lived in Anchorage, AK at the time I did, and used to mod stuff for me for pennies. So I had a 600XL with "Rambo" 256K (or equivalent) and added monitor port (hole drilled in case) with chroma/luminance and BASIC rev. C. Wish I didn't let it go; hence I use a stock 130XE now. I really shot myself in the foot when I got rid of my 8-bit stuff because I was wowed by the glamourous new ST stuff at the time. In retrospect, the move from ST to PC (a 286/16Mhz) was not as painful and I don't really miss the ST computers. Moving from the ST to a DOS/Windows machine felt much like moving from a Pentium 3 to Pentium 4 machine - just a progression, but without the "character" and uniqueness of the 8-bit Atari. Damn if I wasn't in school I'd be stockpiling the 8-bit stuff before it's all gone - merely replacing what I once had. Wish I'd learned something of electronics because it's not cheap or easy to find someone to work on 8-bit Ataris in 2007.
JW