Atari 5200 w/refurbed joysticks + Multicart!

[Atari 5200 w/refurbed joysticks + Multicart!]

I recently bought an Atari 5200 4-Port and redid both joysticks with gold dot and flex9 circuits. They work perfect now. I also got the follwoing games for it: Centipede,Countermeasure,Defender [complete in box],Dig Dug,Frogger [complete in box],Galaxian,Joust,Mario Bros.,Missile Command,Moon Patrol,PacMan,Pole Position,Popeye,Q-Bert,Qix [complete in box],Realsports Football,Realsports Soccer,Space Invaders,Star Raiders,Super Breakout,and Vanguard. There are some others but they are duplicates i ended up with trying to get certain ones so i will try and sell them seperately. Then i also bought a 5200 128-in-1 Multicart. This is the one without the USB connection. It simply has 128 games on it. Then i lost my job and now need to recoup as much money as possible. I figured i would ask if anyone is interested here first before i post on ebay. I have $325 in it and thats all i am asking out of it plus whatever exact shipping would be.

 

So thats all of the following:

Atari 5200 4-port

2 joysticks refurbed with gold dot and flex9 circiuts

RF/power adapter

21 games

1 super-rare 5200 128-in-1 Multicart

for $325 plus shipping.

For an extra $25 i will throw in the duplicate games as well. There are 11.

Please PM or email me. I need to move this quick to pay bills so if i don't get any interest before monday it goes to ebay.Thanks for looking!

[FS: Atari 7800 Collection, Console, games, extras]

Hello,

 

I have for sale the bulk of my Atari 7800 collection.

 

(1) S-Video MOD 7800

 

(1) 7800 Controller

 

(18) boxed games with manuals:

 

Asteroids

Ballblazer

Cracked

Centipede

Dark Chambers

Galaga

Hat trick

Jinks

One on One

Pole Position II

Real sports Baseball

Tower Toppler

Donkey Kong

Midnight Mutants

Joust

Ms. Pacman

Donkey Kong Jr.

Xevious

 

 

 

 

(2) Homebrews and (1) hack

 

these games do not have a box but they do have manuals:

 

Missing in Action 7800

Pacman Collection 7800

House on Haunted Hill 2600

 

 

 

 

 

Act now and I will also throw in 36 unopened packs of Donkey Kong Trading cards AND a Donkey Kong 2600 game (no box or manual)

 

 

But wait thats not all, you also get this AWESOME FRIDAY THE 13th PART 3 Atari 2600 box and manual (no game included)

 

 

So you get a console, 18 Atari 7800 games still in the original box, 2 Ultra Rare 7800 games with manuals, 1 collectible Atari 2600 hack, 36 unopened packs of Cards, a collectible Box and a fun but common Atari 2600 game all for the low low price of....

 

$180.00 plus shipping!!!

 

Thank you all,

 

Tim

 

Would you be interested in breaking it up? LMK If so, i would be interested in the following:

Dark Chambers

Donkey Kong Jr

Hat Trick

Midnight Mutants

Pac Man Collection

[Need help on monitor for arcade game]

Most are easy repairs. He is right, they have been out of production for some time. there are plenty of games that are not as valuable to scavenge parts off of. If you know what you are doing, I would suggest a rebuild (shotgun repair approach) kit and a new flyback. That is 99.9 of what goes wrong on those....power diodes are number one, and they do have a modern fix for that exact section.

 

Basics first, do you have a spot killer light on the monitor chassis? If so, you have deflection. Do you hear High Voltage? Do you know how to solder? Reflow ALL the joints on the boards. Bottom line, your level of involvement will determine cost but I would be very surprized if you could not get it going for under $100.

 

C

 

I am out of luck then i guess because i have never soldered anything in my life. I have no idea what half of the stuff you mentioned is, such as deflection or a spot killer light. For the person that asked where i am located, i am in Tennessee in the middle of nowhere.

 

here is a list of vaps members in tennessee. Find someone with a star wars/space duel/tempest/black widow/gravitar/ or quantum on that list and beg them for help.

 

Even if they can't help you fix it, maybe they can direct you to someone local who can. The problem is that your only other option would be to ship the whole monitor to someone to have it fixed. PLus you need to find out wht type of monitor you have thats bad. If it has a big metal frame that all the boards that connect to the monitor are mounted to the frame, then it will probably be an inexpensive fix($75-$150).

 

but if it looks like the tube is just stuck in the wood and boards that mount to the side of the cabinet and connect to the monitor, then your looking at a more expensive fix ($100-$250) so you need to decide how bad you want to keep your star wars. Broken, its probably worth $200-$300.

 

You are sure only the monitor it out? That means you can hear the game playing with no picture.

 

 

http://www.vaps.org/members/location.php?location=Tennessee

 

Well before it went out it went to like a half screen and then it popped and the whole monitor went out. I do believe the music was still playing when it went. I believe, if i remember what the first guy who worked on it told me, that it has a Wells something monitor. As long as fixing would stay below $500 i would game for getting it fixed. It would be great if i could fins some one to redo the entire inside of it. Its looks pretty old in there. I'm sure that some of the soldering is brittle just by looking at it. All the boards and stuff on mine are on the sides near the bottom. So its probably the second type you mentioned. On the up side, i did manage to get the owners manual and schematic book with the game when i bought it. Anyways, thanks for link to possiblilities.

[Need help on monitor for arcade game]

Most are easy repairs. He is right, they have been out of production for some time. there are plenty of games that are not as valuable to scavenge parts off of. If you know what you are doing, I would suggest a rebuild (shotgun repair approach) kit and a new flyback. That is 99.9 of what goes wrong on those....power diodes are number one, and they do have a modern fix for that exact section.

 

Basics first, do you have a spot killer light on the monitor chassis? If so, you have deflection. Do you hear High Voltage? Do you know how to solder? Reflow ALL the joints on the boards. Bottom line, your level of involvement will determine cost but I would be very surprized if you could not get it going for under $100.

 

C

 

I am out of luck then i guess because i have never soldered anything in my life. I have no idea what half of the stuff you mentioned is, such as deflection or a spot killer light. For the person that asked where i am located, i am in Tennessee in the middle of nowhere.

[Need help on monitor for arcade game]

I have an upright Atari Star Wars arcade game. I got it used several years ago and got a guy from the local arcade to repair it for me. The monitor went about a year or so later. The same guy said he couldn't repair it because they couldn't get those monitors anymore. What can i do to fix the unit? I had heard there was a way to upgrade the monitor and chipset to more modern specs. Anyone know anything about that or how to get it done? I know nothing about electronics. At least not in the sense of soldering and resistors and the like. I am a Star Wars collector and the game is my favorite game. I don't want to scrap it!

[Hello from newbie!]

I kind of just gave up - because I don't have an answer. If this problem rings a bell with anyone, feel free to chime in with a suggestion.

Have you noticed any other strange occurrences when playing games on this console? I had a 5200 that behaved bizarrely when playing certain games. Turned out it was bad RAM.

 

Around 8 years ago when I dug out all my old 5200 stuff and stated playing video games again, I started going through all my games again for the first time in almost 9 years. Most of the games played fine on my original 1982 5200 and stock controllers, but a thought several played extremely poorly compared to my original memories. I simply attributed to a combination of nostalgia and the fact that games and controllers had improved so much in 17 years that the games and their control had simply become dated. I then bought a 5200 multicart as a simple way to get all the games that I was missing in my library. It worked great except for Galaxian, which would lock up while on the title screen. I figured no big deal, it must have had a bad rom copy on it but I had 2 actual Galaxian carts so I just ignored it. I then bought 2 gold circuit rebuilt controllers from Best Electronics and was really happy with them, but those games that didn't seem to play right still were wrong, thus confirming (it appeared) my original assumption. After around 2 years I went to play Robotron one day and found that the second controller port on my 5200 had died, no more Robotron or Space Dungeon for me. After about a month I bought a replacement 5200 motherboard from Best Electronics, dropped it in and immediately tested Robotron and Space Dungeon. They worked great so then I tried my multicart and it worked fine and as a lark I tried the Galaxian on the multicart and was shocked to find it played perfectly. I then tried those games that I felt the control was very poor on and unbelievably to me they all played 100x better. Seems there was something wrong with my motherboard the whole time but since most games worked fine I was never able to figure that out. I now have very few if any complaints about the control in any 5200 game, except for the spawn of hell Gorf....

 

I was wondering about that since i got my unit off ebay. I may have to replace parts in the future. How much does a new motherboard cost and what is involved in installing it? Also where do you get one?

[Hello from newbie!]

jal - I actually am familiar with adjusting the potentiometer, and had done this (unsuccessfully) using the diagnostic rom (on my 5200 multi cart) already before sending my controllers to classics to check with the console I bought from him.

 

However - I am willing to try it again in the manner you described above and I'll see if I have any different/better luck.

 

Thanks for your input!

 

--Timster--

 

Well its worth a shot anyways. What can it hurt at this point, right? I have also heard of the pins where the joystick plugs in being bad and casuing similar problems. Let me know if that solves the problem for you.

[Hello from newbie!]

After getting the controllers updated i noticed a problem with some of the games but after checking these forums i was able to diagnose and fix the problem.

 

What was the problem you were having with some of the games, and what was the remedy? The reason I ask is I've had problems with some games ever since I've had a 5200 (a few of them, actually), and I've never gotten a chance to post out here for some help. I'd say half the games I have (which is 90% of the entire lineup of US releases) have a problem with response to the controller(s). It's like certain directions don't work on some games. For example, with Popeye, I can't get him to go left, or up. On other games, maybe right and/or down or even the fire button may not work. It's so inconsistent, it's maddening. I'd be quick to say it's a faulty controller, but probably half my games work fine in all directions with the same controller(s). It's really weird, and frustrating.

 

The most annoying thing is, I have the same problems with the same games even if using a different 5200 console and/or different cart of the same game. And my controllers were checked out/repaired by Jetset from this site. AND, my main 5200 console was obtained from Steven Tucker ("classics"), and he actually calibrated this machine to the controllers I'm using.

 

I kind of just gave up - because I don't have an answer. If this problem rings a bell with anyone, feel free to chime in with a suggestion.

 

Thanks!

 

--Timster--

Hey! I was having similar problems. On Popeye i couldn't move down. On Mario Bros. I couldn't move right. And on some games like Super Breakout i could go right but not all the way. Here was the solution: Open up the unit by unscrewing all the screws from the bottom. Remove the top half. There is a white potentiometer on the right side to the front of the system. I put in Milssile Command and turned on the system. Center your joystick then move the potentiometer until the crosshair is centered. Test it a few times to make sure it stays centered. I also checked Popeye and Super Breakout while i had it open to make sure. To put the cartridge in while its like that you have to take a toothpick and push the side slots on the cartridge open and slide it down while its open. Games like Popeye don't have that problem since they don't have the piece that slides over the chip. Anyways, once everything was centered, i closed it back up and put all the screws back and voila! I haven't had any problems since! I also took some alcohol and cleaned all the chips on my games. Some of them were pretty dirty. To do that you just take some cotton swabs and alcohol and open the cartridge the way i explained before and clean away. Just make sure you let it dry before using them. Keep in mind too that i went ahead and paid to get the gold dot and flex9 kits to fix the controllers for good. I have tried all the other methods before and everyone i have talked to that has switched to these they that this solves the problems permenently. Hope that helped a little. I actually found the info to fix the potentiometer in the forums here. It helped alot as i was really getting frustrated with the controllers since i just spent the money to upgrade them.

I know you mentioned that Classics calibrated your machine too. I have heard that teh potentiometer can shift while in transit from vibrations of the vehicle and such. That may be why it worked for him there but then acted up when you got it. Just a thought.

[Hello from newbie!]

After getting the controllers updated i noticed a problem with some of the games but after checking these forums i was able to diagnose and fix the problem.

 

What was the problem you were having with some of the games, and what was the remedy? The reason I ask is I've had problems with some games ever since I've had a 5200 (a few of them, actually), and I've never gotten a chance to post out here for some help. I'd say half the games I have (which is 90% of the entire lineup of US releases) have a problem with response to the controller(s). It's like certain directions don't work on some games. For example, with Popeye, I can't get him to go left, or up. On other games, maybe right and/or down or even the fire button may not work. It's so inconsistent, it's maddening. I'd be quick to say it's a faulty controller, but probably half my games work fine in all directions with the same controller(s). It's really weird, and frustrating.

 

The most annoying thing is, I have the same problems with the same games even if using a different 5200 console and/or different cart of the same game. And my controllers were checked out/repaired by Jetset from this site. AND, my main 5200 console was obtained from Steven Tucker ("classics"), and he actually calibrated this machine to the controllers I'm using.

 

I kind of just gave up - because I don't have an answer. If this problem rings a bell with anyone, feel free to chime in with a suggestion.

 

Thanks!

 

--Timster--

Hey! I was having similar problems. On Popeye i couldn't move down. On Mario Bros. I couldn't move right. And on some games like Super Breakout i could go right but not all the way. Here was the solution: Open up the unit by unscrewing all the screws from the bottom. Remove the top half. There is a white potentiometer on the right side to the front of the system. I put in Milssile Command and turned on the system. Center your joystick then move the potentiometer until the crosshair is centered. Test it a few times to make sure it stays centered. I also checked Popeye and Super Breakout while i had it open to make sure. To put the cartridge in while its like that you have to take a toothpick and push the side slots on the cartridge open and slide it down while its open. Games like Popeye don't have that problem since they don't have the piece that slides over the chip. Anyways, once everything was centered, i closed it back up and put all the screws back and voila! I haven't had any problems since! I also took some alcohol and cleaned all the chips on my games. Some of them were pretty dirty. To do that you just take some cotton swabs and alcohol and open the cartridge the way i explained before and clean away. Just make sure you let it dry before using them. Keep in mind too that i went ahead and paid to get the gold dot and flex9 kits to fix the controllers for good. I have tried all the other methods before and everyone i have talked to that has switched to these they that this solves the problems permenently. Hope that helped a little. I actually found the info to fix the potentiometer in the forums here. It helped alot as i was really getting frustrated with the controllers since i just spent the money to upgrade them.

[Hello from newbie!]

I just recently picked up a used Atari 5200 off Ebay as well as getting the gold rebuild kits for the controllers. After getting the controllers updated i noticed a problem with some of the games but after checking these forums i was able to diagnose and fix the problem. Now i am basking in glorious gameply again! I used to have a 5200 and 7800 back in the day but sold them off because i thought i would have no way to repair the joysticks. It was sad too because i had nearly all the games available at the time including a lot of rare games. Anyways, i am in the process of picking up a multicart from Classics. I know a lot of people don't care for the 5200 because of the controllers problems but when they are working it is an awesome system! Next i am trying to find a trak-ball for it! Then i just need to replace my 7800 and find a CC2! Atari rules!