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Posts posted by anny84
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the Street Racer cartridge is very poor. But it can be useful to veeeery young kids for playing to some, innocent, shoot-em up in some game competition at kid school or a party. The trouble is: it's too easy to each 99 points for one-player games. In italy where the games are 2'45" long it's also easier to go over.
Is there some good programmer (I know there's someone here) able to hack it for me, so it will be provide three/four digits on the score (four digits are better for Number Cruncher variation), or simply a roll-up (after 99, come back to 0) and add an "dot" display on the score screen every time a multiple of 100 points is reached?
The same hack can be done on some "Air-Sea Battle" variation where the 99 points are also easy to reach.
Thanks in advance... I know someone of you can do it.... I will be grateful!!
Anny
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I don't know...a bunch of reasons probably added up to using that for the length of a game.
Clicking a "jiffy" every 64th frame is easy to keep track of in terms of "bits" (64 is a power of 2...corresponding to a single bit's on/off state). Coupled with keeping another bit's positive/negative status means that it produces 128 x 64 frames, or approx. 2:15. This doesn't quite match up with the television's 60 jiffies/sec...so if a game ran too much longer, a user would eventually notice that any ingame clock (if displayed) isn't keeping track of seconds correctly. The advantage of relying on positive/negative status in the timer means that could double as the flag for inactive games...a game is in progress only when one state is true. In addition to that, using a single byte to keep track of either score means that you end up with a very short period before a score would roll over (at 9 if using the same byte for both players, or 99 if using seperate bytes)...so a short game time period is an advantage there.
That's right, thanks. There's the reason all 2'16" games in Italy are 2'45" long. We in Italy have 50 j/s instead of 60.
To everyone: I'm 26... not so young. But thanks anyway
Thanks
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Hi,
sorry for odd question: why most of timed games are "two minutes, sixteen seconds" long? Is there a particular reason?
Thanks in advance!
Anny Carano
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Hi everybody!
Can I use a TI/994A bought in the US (by using the RGB output) on a PAL TV in Europe?
The PAL TV set is enough modern, It was bought around in the 2002.
Thanks
Anny
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It'll work just fine.. 1.3A is plenty of current capacity for a single 1050 drive..
Well that's my doubt, I wonder why the original PSU comes with 3.4A ....
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I checked it: the italian NES PSU is an AC adaptor: 9V, 1.3A, with the right plug. Of course, since it's too weak for Atari 1050 specifications, I definitely want to wait before trying.
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If I'm not wrong, 1050 and XF551 can also use Nintendo Entertainment System (NES) power supply.
completely right ! I use it all the time since I have more nes/snes PSU's. Ampere is only the indication on a device of how many energy it will consume.
But, if I was not wrong, the italian NES has a DC power supply, not AC. I should check for a friend, she should still own one NES.
Anny
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Hello,
I do have an some original 1050 PSUs which say 9V - 27VA. If you want one, I can send one to you. I live in Germany, so the postage should not be too expensive. Should have known that earlier, I´ve been in Naples in June (Bagnoli).
I e-mailed to you... thanks
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Well, use it with that supply and if it works then I wouldn't worry too much about it. You won't damage it using a weaker supply.
Thanks for help Bryan. But what do you mean, in the previous message, with "unreliable" operation? What odd unreliabilities can I notice?
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Hello.
The 9VAC 15VA supply should work with the 800, but the 1050 should have 25VA or greater for reliable operation. The supply that came with it was rated for 31VA.
Thanks Bryan I know it
but my question is just due to my doubts - my uncle still says he bought it with that psu and never had troubles
but I'm more doubtful than him
I found a shop in the US selling the original Atari supplies at a good price, but postal expenses for Italy are awful then I should also buy a 110/220V converter...
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Hi,
I beg your pardon if my question was already sent to this forum...
since I like to play with old electronic stuff in my (few) free time, my uncle gives me an Atari 800 with a 1050 disk drive, and their external power supply he had when was a real collector.
Let's talk about the drive power supply.
I read the power supply needed is an AC 9V-3A power supply but the power supply he always used in the past was:
model: Ingersoil Type 633498
240V (we're in Europe)
Output 1: 9V - 15.3VA AC
Output 2: 6V - 1.8VA DC
of course I'm watching the "AC" parameter.
The drive works goooood, but I am afraid it can damage if I will use a lot since the Ampere setting is lower than required.
Is there someone can give me some tip? I asked for a new power supply in a good electronic shop near home but is hard to find unless I buy an AC transformer and mount by myself. Impossible for me unless I will disturb some elec-friend.
Thanks
Cheers
Anny
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Thank you very much!! :* :*
I'm working on a PDF now and I hope to put it online on some webspace.
Kisses
Anny
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I can't do pdf. Would jpg work? I assume you want them in English.
Yes, jpg is good for me. One jpg per page, then I can create PDF from them.
English version is also good for me.
Thanks!
Anny
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Hi everybody,
I've lost my manual , can someone scan the original user guide scanned as pdf?
Thanks in advance!
Kisses
Anny Carano
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Joust is 8k - I think the Supercharger conversion is impossible.
Anny
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Hi everybody
I live in Italy.
I have an Atari Falcon030 with 14Mb Ram - HD 850Mb 2.5" IBM - Some external SCSI 540Mb HD - and Scart Cable (no Atari monitor - just TV ).
Please add me to your list
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Anny
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I used some Iomega Zip100 case.
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Anny
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My uncle gives me an Intellivision cartridge of "Donkey Kong Jr." but it doesn't work correctly.
I cleaned a lot but nothing goes better so I do think it's definitely damaged.
Where the trouble is? The chip? Is it replaceable with a socket so I can put a 16k Eprom programmed with game?
Thanks for help in advance.
Anny
Are you using an Intellivision II? There were a few games incompatible with it and this may be one of them.
And you're not likely to be able to do an EPROM swap for Intellivision games because they used a weird 10-bit bus, meaning a pair of EPROMs would have been required.
I'm not using an Intellivision II sorry... just a PAL European Intellivision, maybe it could be incompatible too, like the Intv II.
I will follow everybody's tips as soon as possible and I will try to revive the cartridge if I can.
Cheers
Anny
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My uncle gives me an Intellivision cartridge of "Donkey Kong Jr." but it doesn't work correctly.
I cleaned a lot but nothing goes better so I do think it's definitely damaged.
Where the trouble is? The chip? Is it replaceable with a socket so I can put a 16k Eprom programmed with game?
Thanks for help in advance.
Anny
Ahhhh.... this takes me back.
Reading your post, I just had a a hazy recollection of issues with Coleco-made intellivision carts pop into my head. Seems like you'd plug 'em in and often get a black screen, and you'd have to switch the whole thing off and reseat the cart and try it again. I know I had it with Donkey Kong and I think Carnival. Once it got going it was fine but often it took a few attempts, at least for me.
I don't recall it ever happening with any other company's Intellivision carts.
What does your cart do when you plug it in and turn it on?
Hi,
as I remind (I tried it some time ago), the game totally garbles itself after the initial choice menu. Unlike other games in my collection, a console reset was not enough. I've other Coleco games, but they work fine.
Since I was enough used to "clean" game cartridges, I don't think it's a dirty trouble.
By reading your misadventure with Coleco cartridges, I guess: is maybe a compatibility trouble with some Intellivision board version?
Anny
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Thanks for your job!
Just for a summary: please can you write a short detail down, with all differences you made on the original Coke Wins?
Of course, no need to publish again the source differences, just a "whatsnew" with game play differences.
Anny
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Well, often the DVD special editions are a bit different from standard edition, contain some extra more on same DVD or a second disc.
Anny
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My uncle gives me an Intellivision cartridge of "Donkey Kong Jr." but it doesn't work correctly.
I cleaned a lot but nothing goes better so I do think it's definitely damaged.
Where the trouble is? The chip? Is it replaceable with a socket so I can put a 16k Eprom programmed with game?
Thanks for help in advance.
Anny
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Exactly.
Special Edition has no special meaning.
It just looks nice on the box:
http://www.atarimania.com/lst_soft-MENU-2-...I-SOFT_LIB.html
Really no meaning?
Odd, a decision to put a label on the box just for attractiveness purpose
Anny
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Hi anny!
Special Edition/feature games from Atari. Yeah - it just means that there are super easy small kid versions of the game included with the game program. That's all just an easy young kid game variation.
late.
Hi,
I always thought "Special Feature" was only used for kid game variations after 1980. "Special Edition" was used before, but it seems not to be related to kids: for example, it's used for Basic Programming too, but this program is not related to kids, I guess.
Anny
Street Racer hack... is there any?
in Atari 2600 Hacks
Posted
thanks, you're great!
maybe the only trouble to use the rollover version is on number cruncher variation, where you can go over 100 a lot of times during a game. working on some object showing number of times 100 is reached, could be a good way to improve the game. i am not a programmer, but a colored dot on the screen (a different color each time 100 is reached) could be a solution.
anny