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Calibus

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About Calibus

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    Star Raider

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    Male
  • Location
    Akron Ohio
  • Interests
    Retrocomputing! Reading! Motorcycling! Overzealous use of the "!" key!
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    World of Warcraft

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  1. I took a look at the your github projects - and got all excited when I saw: https://github.com/MicroCoreLabs/Projects/tree/master/MCL68 But instead of the 6809 version I was hoping for - it was a 68000 If you come up with a 6809 version - you'll have most of the bases covered as far as Radio Shack / Tandy 8bit users are concerned. I'm betting the CoCo guys would love a version for the Coco 1,2,3 That would be perfect! Well - then you should setup a donation page. In anticipation of your opening this project to the general public - I had already ordered a couple Teensy 4.1's before the rest of the world finds out about the project and buys 'em up 🙂
  2. OK, Time for the 64K question - are you going to be selling these? I'm sure I'm not the only one would be interested in buying a couple of them. (A Z80 and if possible - a 6502 version) If you don't want to sell them - would you release the gerbers for the boards and firmware for the Teensy so folks like myself could make our own?
  3. I'd love to see a video of this in action 🙂 I hope you would make this an optional feature: Since accessing the actual RAM and ROM on the TRS-80s would be a major boon for troubleshooting bad chips. What sort of interface do you have to the emulator - command line via serial port? It would also be nice to be able to take a snapshot of the memory (all 64K) and and be able to download it... Basically - a "Freezer" for the TRS-80 Again - would love a video demonstration 🙂
  4. I've been interested in something like your project ever since I ran across this project - sadly too late to take advantage of it: https://github.com/hoglet67/AtomBusMon/wiki I personally have no interest in the speedup potential - but I would absolutely love to be able to single step the CPU like they can with the GODIL, set break points etc. And it if you are able to query ROM locations and be able to read/write to RAM - that would be extremely handy for troubleshooting TRS-80s with video problems. I, and probably others here would also be interested in your MCL65+ that you mention here: https://microcorelabs.wordpress.com/2022/02/07/mcl86-design-notes-and-challenges/ Since the 6502 is what runs our Atari, Apple and Commodore 8bit machines.
  5. Can you describe your archiving setup? Were you using an Apple II floppy drive? If so - I thought the Apple II drives were 35 tracks - and Atari drives were 40 - so wouldn't you be possibly missing 5 tracks? jim
  6. I'm guessing you are counting starting from the wrong side of the notch. The pins are numbered counter clockwise. If they were numbered clockwise (starting to the right of the notch, instead of the left) then indeed - that would have been pin 16. Since the pins are numbered counter clockwise, pin 1 is to the left of the notch, so the wire is on pin 5.
  7. Excellent! I'm glad to see you got it fixed - another Model 1 lives to run another day.
  8. Did you hook it up like this? http://www.trs-80.com/wordpress/zaps-patches-pokes-tips/zaps-model-i-composite-video-cable/ If so - is the red power LED on the computer turning on? If the red LED is on - then you have some troubleshooting to do - a multimeter is the minimum equipment you need, and a 'scope makes things easier. Schematics are a requirement also. You can find the tech reference manual online - like this http://cpmarchives.classiccmp.org/trs80/mirrors/pilot.ucdavis.edu/davidk/documentation/26-2103.htm
  9. The small satellite PCB is the official XRX Cassette modification. It was done to help the readability of cassette tapes. The issue was later fixed in firmware with the newer ROM. Your computer probably has the older ROM - if should say "MEMORY SIZE?" when powered up - instead of the newer "MEM SIZE?" Does your computer have a long ribbon cable with a small board and 3 large ROM chips attached to it? If so - that's another indicator of the the older ROM.
  10. Make sure you have the power supply plugged into the DIN connector closest to the power button. All of the DIN connectors are the same - so it is VERY easy to plug the power into the video for example. I see someone labeled the connectors for you - P(ower) V(ideo) and I assume there is a "C" on the yellow label for Cassette. I'm not aware of any issues with the original power supplies. Wow - where to begin. "Big 5 Software" was always the benchmark in my eyes for games. There are arcade games, adventure games (Adventure International - Scott Adams, Infocom, Radio Shack titles such as Pyramid 2000, Raka-Tu) I'd do a google search for Adventure International catalogs and browse through them looking for things that catch your eye. A 16K cassette system is pretty limited, even some of the cassette only programs can require 32k or 48k. A picture of the modification would help. I've glued the standoffs back in place using JB Weld. The Model 1 was (is) a true hardware hackers machine. Lower case mods, Speedup Mods, Internal RAM mods, 3rd party expansion interfaces, 3rd party disk controllers, 3rd party disk drives... Again - maybe a picture is missing. The reset button was considered to be in an inconvenient spot by some people - and hard to press when an expansion interface is connected, so it was common to see a push button wired in parallel with the reset button. I never did that to any of mine. The Model 1 was my first computer back in 1981, I wanted an Apple II or an Atari, but they were out of my reach price wise back then. I recommend the TRS-80 Trash Talk if you are into podcasts. To get an idea of what sort of hardware hack were being done back in the 80s - do a google search for "The Custom TRS-80 and Other Mysteries" and you should be able to find a pdf version. I still have my original copy. Jim
  11. If you have a Model 1/3/4 with a disk drive - by default it will attempt to boot off drive 0. If you have a data disk in drive 0 - you'll get the NO SYS error message or equivalent. It may vary from data disk to data disk depending on the DOS that was used to create it. You can boot to BASIC by holding down whatever key in the emulator corresponds to BREAK and then reseting the emulator. Jim
  12. His site is simply using a self signed cert for HTTPS - I assume that is why McAfee is complaining. McAfee and my browser can't verify his sites certificate with the usual cert authorities, since none of them signed it - i.e. it's self-signed. Obviously a self-signed cert wouldn't fly in a banking site, but it's probably harmless on a hobby site. @Mathy might want to look into seeing if he can get a "Let's Encrypt" SSL Cert installed on his site - that would probably satisfy McAfee and browsers that do cert checking.
  13. Just out of curiosity - why would you choose and SDrive-Max over a FujiNet? As far as I know, the latter can do everything the former can (and more!), is cheaper, and has an ever-expanding feature set thanks to a certain rabid coder. (Looking at you Thom )
  14. If you want DYI with an arduino - then I suggest this: https://atari8bit.net/tutorials/de-re-sdrive-max/ However - I would recommend going this direction: https://fujinet.online/
  15. I foolishly bought a Zhongdi ZD-985 a couple years ago, and while it can do the job, it clogs super easy right by the vacuum chamber. My workflow currently is: Desolder a pin. Shove the cleaner (ram-rod) through the nozzle to ensure it hasn't clogged. Move onto the next pin and repeat. How is the FR-301 as far as clogging is concerned? The ZD-985 is an absolute pain to unclog when it clogs - since the clog happens beyond the heating element where the pipe is cooler. I've resorted to hand twisting a small drill bit into the pipe to unclog it.
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