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atari_envy

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Posts posted by atari_envy


  1. Great! Do you mind scanning the other side also. :cool:

    Attached is the jpg of the front.

     

    EDIT: Not sure why, but I can't upload attachments. It acts like it is uploading ("Uploading File...") but nothing is showing in attachments once the uploading process is done.


  2. Nice scans. I'm glad to see AA finaly have proper Waterworld comic scans. :D

     

    Atari_envy , do you have the "Waterworld Made Simple" insert? Would you mind scanning it also? Pretty Please.... :ponder:

    Not a problem. Check your original thread on this subject. I got both while I was at it.

     

    You're welcome :)


  3. It's beyond me why video game collectors would rather spend $800 on the N64 than the Atari 2600. Really there is not much bang for your buck. You spend $800 on the N64 and you get a semi-common sealed supermario party. You spend $800 on the Atari 2600 and you can so so so so much more. $800 will get you all these games sealed Frogger, Frogger II, Pitfall, Pitfall II, H.E.R.O., Pac-man, Miner2049er, Double Dragon, Mario Bros., Ikari Warriors, Motorodeo, Star Wars ESB, Star Wars RTOJ, Star Wars Arcade, Star Wars DSB, and even after buying all those games you have money to spare.

     

     

    Again, I just don't get it. Why would anyone spend so much on a third banana system to the NES, when they could have such a beutiful collection? It makes absolutely no sense. Really, if that guy was to show off his SuperMario Party sealed game in a N64 forum everyone and their brother would take a collective yawn. That's the good thing about the Atari 2600. When you spend $800, you're going to get a pretty decent collection, not just one game that the common collector has.

     

    Edit: Wow, I thought this was a super Nintendo game at first. Yes, this is pretty sad if true.

     

    Because the Atari 2600 does not hold any sentimental value for these people. They would rather one N64 game than 20 Atari games. In the same way that you may not collect Doris Day LPs from the 1050s, even though you can get 800 of them for $800. why would you want 20 Atari 2600 games for $800 when you can have 800 Doris Day LPs?

    I have been bouncing a similar idea around in my head a lot. I collect 2600 games because admittedly they have a lot of sentimental value for me. That is what makes them valuable -- I played/loved them as a kid and I get a kick out of playing them now. I do not see them as a true collectible or as a long term investment. Once us 30 and 40 somethings grow old and/or pass away, the demand will virtually disappear. Sure there might be a few people who find some novelty in the 2600 and what it represented in video gaming history, but not enough to demand a high price.


  4. Here are my Atari silver CIB that I have opened myself. I have some 1988 versions in storage that I might post later.

     

    * Battlezone: Game c1983 2681, Manual color stapled CO19741-81 2681, Box 2681 G-CO19743-81 REV. 1

    * E.T. The Extra-Terrestrial: Game c1982 2674, Manual color stapled C019741-74 REV. 1 2674, Box 2674 G-CO19743-74 REV. 2, Catalog CO16725-Rev. E, Tips On Getting E.T. Home Fast! insert No. CO20807 Rev. 1, Raiders of the Lost Ark insert CO20361 Rev. 1

    * Galaxian: Game c1983 2684, Manual color stapled C019741-84 REV. B 2684, Box 2681 G-CO19743-84 REV. 1, Atari Service Contract Offer CO21047 Rev. 1, Atari Force comic book No. 5 CO 20131

    * Joust: Game c1983 2691, Manual color stapled CO19741-91 REV. A 2691, Box 2691 G-CO19743-91 REV. A, Catalog CO21776-REV A, SPECIAL OFFER Atari Club mailer CO24247 Rev. A

    * Jungle Hunt: Game c1983 2688, Manual color stapled CO19741-88 REV. A 2688, Box 2688 G-CO19743-88 REV. 1, Catalog CO16725-Rev. E

    * Krull: Game c1983 2682, Manual color stapled CO19741-82 REV. A 2682, Box 2682 G-CO19743-82 REV. A, Catalog CO21776-REV A, SPECIAL OFFER Atari Club mailer CO24247 Rev. A

    * Moon Patrol: Game c1983 2692, Manual color stapled CO19741-92 REV. A 2692, Box 2692 G-CO19743-92 REV. A, Catalog CO21776-REV A, SPECIAL OFFER Atari Club mailer CO24247 Rev. A

    * Ms. Pac-Man: Game c1982 2675, Manual color stapled CO19741-75 REV.1 2675, Box 2675 CO19743-75 REV. 2 w\"Super Arcade-Like Graphics" decal, Catalog CO16725-Rev. E

    * Stargate: Game c1987 CX 26120, Manual greyscale stapled CO19741-120A Rev.A Model 26120 V L.9.1987, Box CX 26120 CAO19739-120 REV. A, Warranty Card CO72020-001 REV. B

    * Phoenix: Game c1982 2673, Manual color stapled C019741-73 REV. 1 2673, Box 2673 G-CO19743-73 REV. 1, Atari Force comic book No. 4 CO20133, Catalog CO16725-Rev. E

    * RealSports Tennis: Game c1983 2680, Manual color stapled C019787-80 REV. A w\mult languages, Box 2680 CO19785-80 REV. A w\"N" sticker on top flap and mult language descriptions

    * Swordquest EarthWorld: c1982 2656, Manual color stapled C019741-56 REV. 1 CX2656, Box CX 2656 G-CO19743-56 REV. 1, Catalog CO16725-Rev. E, Swordquest comic Book No. 1 CO19251, Swordquest challenge poster C020116

    * Swordquest FireWorld: c1982 2657, Manual color stapled C019741-57 REV. 2 CX2657, Box CX 2657 G-CO19743-57 REV. 1, Catalog CO16725-Rev. E, Swordquest comic Book No. 2 CO19251, Swordquest challenge poster C020117 Rev. 1

    * TAZ: Game c1983 2699, Manual color stapled CO19741-99 REV. A, Box G-C019743-99 REV. A

    * Vanguard: Game c1982 2669, Manual color stapled CO19741-69 REV. 1 2669, Box 2669 G-CO19743-69 REV. 1, Catalog CO16725-Rev. E


  5. Nothing personal, but I don't see the point in all this. First off, if the list is on the first page of this thread, it is very unreadable. Too confusing, no good format. Personally, I wouldn't open any of my sealed games to find out what is inside. Then it wouldn't be sealed. Any purchase I make of boxed games I can't assume the correct warranty cards, game catalogs, or even instruction manuals are the originals that came with this box. As for trying to finish the list, I've been working on just getting label variations, manual variations, and box variations, along with listing all catalogs and warranty cards and owner's manuals and I'm having a hard time that has taken well over 10 years to put together by several people. Trying to record where each of these came from is impossible. But I guess since it's your time, you can feel free to spend it however you please. You seem to be getting better response than I do when I ask for help trying to get scans or info from the collectors. I've only had maybe 6 or 7 collectors truly help me out over the years.

     

    One thing you should note is that people may not be honest as to what they have as contents. That's why I stopped believing what people stated as label/cart variations and started physically documenting everything with a scan. So at least I'd have proof. If you were just going for the first and only release of a cartridge rather than any release of the game, then maybe you'd have a chance at accomplishing your task. As for NES, I believe it's much easier since most of those only had 1 released version. Cataloging NES complete contents is much easier. But like I said, I don't see the point. I don't think people would pay more because the game has its game catalog and warranty card in it versus just plain old manuals. I do understand inserts such as the Raiders, Asteroids, and ET, since that is part of the game. Anyway, have fun with your venture.

     

    Phil

     

    PS: You may want to look at the giant list of variations before you decide to keep going with this. You'll end up with thousands of entries.

    One mans garbage is another's treasure. I could say typing a page response to a thread you have absolutely no interest in seems also to be a waste of time. Believe it or not there are people who actually care about having a game complete in box. Sure you could play a monopoly game without all the pieces but it's nicer to have all the pieces. I just want to know what makes a complete in box game for as many games as I can. For me this has nothing to do with prices, or notoriety. It's just a need to know what truly makes a complete in box game. I feel a person deserves to know if their games are truly complete or not. For you it means nothing, and seems laborious. But for me it's a need to know. It's amazing how people who profess no interest in this have the interest in posting long posts. OH, and yes I am aware of the fact that there are at least 2,000 variations to NTSC American released games. I just don't care, it's my time and I feel it's a worthy cause.

    "First off, if the list is on the first page of this thread, it is very unreadable" -- I am assuming this is a work in progress. As the list grows it can be broken up into a new thread, e.g. A-F, G-L, etc. reformatted, whatever. Up to Homer.

     

    "Personally, I wouldn't open any of my sealed games to find out what is inside" -- I do open sealed games. I have about 230 CIB games and a third are/were sealed. It gives me the experience of buying a game new, opening it and playing it, just like you would do with present-day game. I keep the shrinkwrap around the box. There are others who do the same as I have purchased CIB games with just the top opened and containing all the literature.

     

    "Any purchase I make of boxed games I can't assume the correct warranty cards, game catalogs, or even instruction manuals are the originals that came with this box." -- That is why we are making this list, so you can compare against another list to see if it matches up.

     

    "One thing you should note is that people may not be honest as to what they have as contents." -- Then others can correct as necessary. The more the better in creating this. Better to have a list to refer to as opposed to nothing at all.

     

    It really is a matter of perspective and attitude. You say you have spent 10 years cataloging label variations. I personally could care less about different and obscure label variations and feel that is a waste of time. I just want one CIB copy of a game that is either new or has the correct contents. But even though I feel that way, I wouldn't jump on your thread and write a half-page treatise pointing out all the problems and time wasted by cataloging labels, because I realize that in the world of collecting there are people who are interested in variations. Consider then that there are collectors who are interested in Homer's list even if you are not.


  6. A couple notes and updates:

     

    My "Frogs and Flies" post hasn't shown up in the master list. Here it is again:

     

    Frogs and Flies, Game c1982 Korea black label w\blue text, Manual tri-fold in color 5664-0950, Box No. 5664-0410, Catalog 0151-0050, FREE DECAL Card 0151-0060

     

    This and all other posts by me are boxes that were bought factory sealed and opened by me. They can be marked with an asterisk, whereas currently they are not. e.g. Plaque Attack and etc. posting; Popeye and etc. posting; Demon Attack and etc. posting.

     

    Here are a couple more while I am at it. Again, SIB opened by me:

     

    River Raid II: Game AK-048-04, Manual AK-048-03, Box AK-048-02, Catalog AG-946-103, Registration card AG-946-89, Now Available insert AG-946-126, Triton Products order form ACT688

     

    Sorcerer (Mythicon): Game c1983 No. 1, Manual small tri-fold, Box MA 1001, Registration Card Myth 00007-7-83 k


  7. Here are the Imagic games which were new in factory shrinkwrap that I have opened myself:

     

    Demon Attack: Game color picture c1982 720101-1 Rev. B, Manual color stapled 700601-1, Box IA 3200, Catalog 700500-1 Rev. A, Registration card 1-10000 Rev. B

    Cosmic Ark: Game color picture c1982 720104-1 Rev. A, Manual color stapled 700604-1 Rev. A, Box IA 3204, Catalog 700500-1 Rev. A, Registration card 1-10000 Rev. B, Defend Atlantis Contest pamplet 700199-1

    Star Voyager: Game color picture c1982 720102-1 Rev. B, Manual color stapled RevC 700602-1, Box IA 3201, Catalog 700500-1 Rev. A, Registration card 1-10000 Rev. C

    Fathom: Game no picture c1983 720111-1A, Manual color stapled 700111-1A, Box 03205, Catalog 700500-1 Rev. A, Registration card 1-10000 Rev. D, Electronic Games Magazine subscription pamplet, Imagic Sneak Preview insert 700194-1A

    Moonsweeper: Game no picture c1983 720114-1A, Manual color stapled 700114-1A, Box 03207, Catalog 700500-1 Rev. A, Registration card 740000-1 Rev. D, Electronic Games Magazine subscription pamplet, Imagic Sneak Preview insert 700194-1A


  8. I have quite a few sealed in box Parker Brothers Games, however I have only opened these so far:

     

    Popeye: Game c1983 colored picture label, Manual c1983 color stapled, Box top-fold No. 5370, Parker Brothers catalog c1983 stapled, Popeye's Spinach Can Game card

    Reactor: Game c1982 color picture label, Manual c1983 color stapled, Box two halves No. 5330 with "Reactor" cart holder, no inserts

    Star Wars Jedi Arena: Game c1983 color picture label, Manual c1983 color stapled, Box two halves No. 5000 with "Jedi Arena" cart holder, no inserts

    Star Wars The Empire Strikes Back: Game c1982 color picture label, Manual c1982 color stapled, Box two halves No. 5050 with "The Empire Strikes Back" cart holder, no inserts


  9. Here are my Activision games that I have opened new in shrinkwrap. I have others, but these I have a high confidence that they were factory sealed:

     

    Plaque Attack: Game and Box c1983 AX-027 colored red/pink background, Manual color folded AX-027-03, Catalog Winter/Spring 1983 AG-940-11, Warranty Card AG-940-01 4/82--Rev 3

    Robot Tank: Game and Box c1983 AZ-028 colored gray background, Manual color stapled AZ-028-03, Catalog Winter/Spring 1983 AG-940-11, Warranty Card AG-940-01 4/82--Rev 3, FREE ROBOT TANK POSTER card

    Beamrider: Game color label c1983,84 AZ-037-04, Manual folded W\poster on opposite side AZ-037-03, catalog AG-940-05

    Kung-Fu Master: Game c1984 black and white label AG-039-04, Manual black and white stapled AG-039-03, Warranty Card AG-940-00 06/88, Registration card AG-946-89

    Frostbite: Game and Box c1983 AX-031, Manual color folded AX-031-03, Catalog Fall/Winter 1983 AG-94-05, Warranty Card AG-940-01 4/82--Rev 3

    Commando: Game c1985 black and white label AK-043-04, Manual black and white stapled AK-043-03, Warranty Card AG-940-00 06/85 Rev. 4, Registration card AG-946-89


  10. This looks like a huge waste of time. I do see the value in an added extras list, iron on transfers, stickers, accessories, mail-away offers, and the sort, but a list of model numbers & catalogs seems like a waste.

    Then why don't you bug off. Get lost with your negativity.

    To each their own. Several of my friends and family think that my collection of old, outdated Atari games is a huge waste of time and money.

     

    I personally am very interested in catalog numbers. Many times I wondered about my Activision and Atari colored-box collection and which catalog would have been originally included.


  11. I know Bump n Jump is already listed, but I was really just curious if anyone else has ever found "double manuals" in Bump n Jump or any other M-Network game?

    Almost my entire M-Network is New in Shrinkwrap, plus a couple more NIS that I replaced because their boxes were crushed, but I have never had double manuals. I have had a few of the weirdly folded manuals. I would suggest that double manuals are very rare, but oddly foldly is about a 15% chance, much higher if made in the USA.

     

    Here is one more M-Network game I just got in the mail and opened:

     

    Frogs and Flies, Game c1982 Korea black label w\blue text, Manual tri-fold in color 5664-0950, Box No. 5664-0410, Catalog 0151-0050, FREE DECAL Card 0151-0060


  12. I asked the wife for a couple hombrew carts from the AA store. But alas, I guess I was not a good enough boy this year :(

     

    I did get an eBay gift card which will eventually equal Atari goodies.


  13. Wait.... that was a HEAVY sixer?!

    Didn't look like one when I saw it.... can we get a photo to prove that?

    I'm positive. It is hard to tell on youtube, but easy to spot on TV if you are looking for it. They were playing the Lexus-Atari commercial last night during the Dallas-Ravens game. Maybe if NFL Network keeps carrying that commercial, I will try to get a screen grab.


  14. I thought I had a large collection! Some of these collections make mine seem non-impressive: Keep in mind I only turned 20 like 3 months ago!

    I'm curious what would draw a 20 year-old to old school gaming/collecting, especially the Atari 2600 and 5200? Every 20-something I've talked to bashes the old-school games as being just "blocks bouncing around" compared to today's "realistic" games.

     

    Don't get me wrong, I am not complaining, just genuinely curious.


  15. I put all my crushed game boxes in a large container marked EVIDENCE along with the name and address of the person who shipped me the game. When the day comes (hopefully) when it's a felony to ship boxed Atari games in a bubble mailer, I prosecute to the fullest extent of the law.


  16. When you use the iron, do you use steam? What temperature do you use? I can't find a Pele's Soccer box without some sort of damage. I'm going to try the iron on the worst one and see how it comes out. <crosses fingers>

    What is it with Pele's Soccer that makes people want to crush the box and rip off the top? It took me 3 years to find a Pele's Soccer that wasn't mangled. I guess people use it for soccer practice once they are done playing Atari.


  17. It isn't that hard to get replacement parts. I have picked up quite a few replacement parts for joysticks over the years. What is available varies from time to time. I have two original, new old stock, joystick repair kits from Atari that I picked up from eBay. Here are a couple examples:

     

    New PCB Board:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-ATARI-2600-JOYSTIC...93%3A1|294%3A50

     

    New Inserts:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/2-White-Inserts-Joysti...93%3A1|294%3A50

     

    Rubber Pads:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/28-Rubber-Feet-Atari-2...93%3A3|294%3A50

     

    You can also buy new (i.e. Atari clone) and used joysticks on eBay. In your case, it sounds like the cable is bad. An option would be to buy a used joystick and swap the cable out. I agree that these joysticks are very easy to repair. All you need is a screwdriver. But ToyMailMan is right, watch for the fire button spring. It is small and can get away from you.

     

    One of the best sites for Atari parts is the Atari Best Electronics store. They have all kinds of Atari parts. Their site can be tough to navigate but they have great customer service.

     

    http://www.best-electronics-ca.com/

     

    One repair you can do without replacement parts is to clean the contacts. It has helped several of my joysticks that were becoming unresponsive.

    1. Unscrew the screws in the bottom of the joystick.
    2. Pull the two halves apart, being careful to catch the spring from the fire button.
    3. Make a note of which colored wire goes where from the cord to the PCB board.
    4. Note the position of the silver discs on top of the PCB board.
    5. Pull the multi-colored wires off the PCB board that run to the cable (btw, it will become apparent doing this how to swap a cord out).
    6. There is a transparent tape over the top of the PCB board that holds the five silver discs in place, peel the tape off and remove the discs.
    7. Where the disc contacts the PCB board, use an eraser, superfine grit sandpaper, or an exacto knife (depending on your level of comfort) to buff/scrape the PCB board -- get the copper surface nice and shiny again
    8. Take some Q-tips with 90% alchohol and swab the area you just cleaned, then swab the inside of the discs
    9. Place the discs back on top of the PCB board in their original position
    10. Take a piece of clear packing tape and place it over the PCB board securing the discs
    11. Use an exacto knife to cut the sides and holes in the tape.
    12. Replace the cord wires on the PCB board.
    13. Replace the joystick spring and position the PCB board in the joystick base.
    14. Put the two joystick halves together and replace screws.


  18. Switch panel or bezel is what I call it. I don't know of anyone or place that sells them so your best bet would be to pick up another sixer preferably broken with a good case. If its popping up or something you could probably just glue it in place as there's really no reason to ever remove it.

     

    All the parts except the bottom of the case are basically interchangeable between the heavy and light sixers.

     

    Great! It is good to know the top portion is interchangeable. Thanks for the reply!

    Just one note if you are a purist. While the top portion is interchangeable, there is a slight difference in the font used from the heavy to the light sixer. The light sixer has a slightly thicker, brighter font on all the switch labels. It's an improvement, making it easier to read, but just something to keep in mind if you want a 100% original parts heavy sixer. (Confession, I switched it out on my heavy sixer because it looks better, but I have held onto the original cover).

     

    You probably already know this, but you can either swap out the entire top as one piece (i.e. switch labels, top, and wood trim), or just pop out the orange-framed switch label piece.


  19. I have a smattering of Parker Bros, Imagic and Activision games, and quite a few Atari Silver and Red label CIB that I purchased new and then opened. I will post as I am able to next week.

     

    I also have some games that didn't have shrinkwrap, but were new. I can go through those and hopefully remember which ones.

     

    After that, I can look at my other CIB, but like what has been voiced earlier, it would be tough to judge the accuracy of what has been stuffed into a box once it has changed hands a couple times. However, I really like the idea of having a master list to check what should be in a game box.

     

    This is also a way to ease my conscience for opening all these new games. After all, I am providing an important service ;)

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