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Everything posted by PacManPlus

  1. Ok, I am VERY confused. I opened up the flashback joystick (the one with the extra buttons) and I see no extra hardware, nor any other pins other than U,D,L,R,F,G. So I have NO idea why the 7800 thinks it's a ProLine. Wait, it gets worse... I plugged in the flashback player 2 joystick (the one *without* the extra buttons), and the 7800 also thinks THAT one is a ProLine... Then I was getting nervous, thinking I broke something with the above modifications I made to the game.... so I tried the Hyperkin joystick, and two other standard CX40s. They worked fine. So, for some reason, the flashback joysticks make the 7800 think a ProLine is connected when they aren't. Without any other pins/hardware than a standard joystick. I am SO confused... EDIT - So I took the board out of the player 1 flashback joystick, and there are some diodes and a resistor so I can kind of understand why the 7800 would think that one is a ProLine... Probably some variance in the signal from a CX40. But I took the board out of the player two joystick, and... nothing. Just a board with connections. So that one has me very confused....
  2. I think I finally need to get one of these...
  3. Ok, so last night I found an issue. For some reason, when 'auto-detecting' a joystick, the 7800 thinks the flashback joystick with the extra buttons is a pro-line joystick. This prevents the use of the regular fire-button. So... I guess, there goes that idea.
  4. Ouch... That's very cool, had no idea you did that. I just figured out the flashback buttons: Menu = U + D Select = L + R Start = U + D + L Rewind= L + R + U I had planned on using 'Rewind' as pause (so we had three separate buttons) I'm not sure which way to go with this now. @Lynxpro - I don't think so, as you would be actively messing with the directions *while the game is in play*... It's bad enough that I was able to isolate the 'U' direction by lightly pressing the Start button on the joystick... that may cause issues while playing...
  5. Hey Guys... I'm wondering if enough people have some version of the Flashback joysticks to start to actually start checking for those special button presses (I believe one of them is "left+right", something you would never hit in real life games... except maybe for Track & Field), one of them is "up+down", etc. There should be a list somewhere of this button mapping... I think I may start doing that, as I can't see it hurting anything. If someone doesn't have the joystick, there's always the 'Start & Select' on the console... Bob Also, (unrelated topic) - I bought one of those hyperkin joysticks (the one with the two buttons on it), and I'm going to rewire it to be the left & right buttons for the 7800... just because of Baby Pac-Man... Much easier to use
  6. Thank you. Like I said in another thread, I need to get my mojo back. The last 2.5 years kinda changed me. But, If all goes well with my current project, I should be able to get back to a few things.
  7. Who is playing the demo? Is that you Al? Damn you are good at the game... Some nice moves there!
  8. Hey Guys: I was asked to get you know about a few things: They are offering a 40% sale for the Minis now until Cyber monday. https://coleco-colecovision.myshopify.com Also @MrBeefy The cartridges of Rainbow Brite for the NES are now selling: https://www.pixelheart.fr/shop/nintendo-nes/rainbow-brite-journey-to-the-rainbow-land-nes-pal-1014-40612.htm (The site is overseas though) Bob
  9. Thanks guys. @Kurt_Woloch Good to see you back in this thread... Whenever I'm asked about this game, I always mention you and what you added to make this happen. After going to Free Play Florida, I realized I'd love to get back to the time I was putting out 2 or 3 games a year... I need to get my mojo back...
  10. Youtube video close up of what I had done:
  11. Thanks! Believe it or not, they are too deep. You only have 10mm of space between the face plate and the circuit board behind it. I think I can 3D print a small bezel with a right angle that can hold a USB connector to fit behind the cart port area...
  12. Thank you, but I don't think that's going to help me in this case. I may have to 3D print something, because the USB connector *has* to go where the cart port is (IMHO). *I find it funny that the faceplate (where the switches are) comes off just like the original 2600 one did...
  13. *Side note, They got back to me. They told me that the header of four pins I was looking at on the board are most likely (?) the USB signals. I verified it with an ohmmeter. However, they don't recommend doing anything internally as they don't feel there is room, and it could ruin the board and void the warranty... But that is exactly why I bought two of them Unfortunately however, it doesn't look like I'll be able to put the USB connection where I really want to put it (where the cart slot is) due to lack of room. I may just put it on the side. I'll show what I've done once I do it.
  14. I don't believe there is anything, for *this* title only, that the XM could have added to. The sounds for the arcade game are very primitive, so the sound chips wouldn't be needed much, the extra memory wouldn't have helped much here either. The graphics for the video part were ripped directly from the arcade game. The only thing the XM could have value added was High Score saving. So, to answer your question, I don't believe any improvements from the XM would have been useful for this game to get more of an arcade experience.
  15. Hey Bill: just out of curiosity, are there points on the Circuit Board where we can pick up the 4 USB lines (+5v, Ground, +D, -D), in case we want to make a standard USB port on the unit instead of going external? (like where the cart slot is...)
  16. I just wanted to take this moment to say "thank you" to everyone that was so nice to me at PRGE. It was the first time I was ever there, and I am VERY appreciative. It was GREAT to finally meet some of you, and see others whom I haven't seen in quite a long time. So, again, thanks guys. You make me want to keep doing this. So once Stranger Things is done, I plan on starting my next 7800 game (or continuing one that I already started)
  17. Thanks for the info, guys... Ok. SCAA does not auto-detect as it was done before I knew about that. Having said that, it is currently compiled for $450 (it's just changing a 'constant' which references the address), so we should be fine once it comes out.
  18. Thanks, guys - holy crap! That's me playing it in the beginning of the video. My God, I need to lose all that weight I've gained... ...and remember, this game would have been dead in the water without Kurt's pinball physics code. That gave me the kick in the butt I needed to finish the game. I *still* need to go through his commented code to see how it was done.
  19. Hi guys... I thought he meant video of it being played at the show thanks, Trebor!
  20. BTW, some of the original Atari programmers / engineers were there. Tod Frye was there, and I had no idea until I saw him. Didn't have a Pac-Man cart for him to sign so it was a missed opportunity.
  21. As long as the XM addresses the Pokey at $4000, and I can only speak for Super Circus Atari Age, but if I understand it correctly you can get SCAA on a standard 32K cart (without the Pokey) and plug it into the XM and it will work. Please note however that if you plug that same bare cart into a non XM machine, not only will you not get sound, but it will also not play correctly as I rely on the Random Number generator of the Pokey for that game. Can't speak for Froggie though.
  22. Thanks, guys... and thanks @mksmith, as I see you gave me a shout out in Arkanoid... Thank you for that
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