PacManPlus

Wow, that looks awesome! Great Job! Maybe if I did sort of a 'Part II' to this game with new levels... (Kind of like the Japanese version of Super Mario Bros. II, which were basically newer, harder, levels of Super Mario Bros.) hmmm....... level design contest... Just a thought... BTW, I think it might look better if your background took up the whole area (i.e. no light blue background under the title) Nice Job - what do you guys think about this idea of a 'Part II', using this background as the cover?

Ok, not being one to let things go, I looked at the controller connection on the FB9 sticks (which should answer your question, @Jinks ). It looks like all 9 pins are there on BOTH controllers (which doesn't mean they connect to anything, but still). I think I'll take a multi-meter to these pins to see if the paddle input lines are indeed grounded (thanks for the idea, @RevEng ). I guess even if that's true, the joysticks would then have to be modified for them to work correctly with the 7800. So this still might be a bust... Again, except for single button games.

The original Odyssey (If that counts - my father was in the business)... and I still have it with all pieces & box. My memory is a bit fuzzy about the order in which I received them, but I got the Coleco Telstar Arcade (the triangle shaped one), Atari Stunt Cycle, and the 2600 w/ Space Invaders not long after.

Yes, and unfortunately, no they don't. I don't know why - although I know it has something to do with when the 'change mode' reverse direction happens (especially the one within the first 5-7 seconds of the board). I tried to adjust it side by side so it happens exactly when the arcade version does, but it was always a frame or two off. Believe me, that makes a huge difference.

Each player (port), auto detects the type of joystick to use (i.e. the ProLine or the CX-40). You can't use both ports for the same player. The coupler would be the way to go although you can't bump the table with the Track & Field controller then. I purchased a Hyperkin joystick (with the buttons on both sides) for the sole purpose of making it into a 7800 joystick for Baby Pac-Man. To me, it's a perfect solution for it.

Well, I've got the code written and tested so I'll put it in the games that only use CX-40s. This way there's no issues.

Thank you - If it wasn't for Kurt, this would never have been finished. And if it wasn't for the people I thanked in the attract mode of the game, it wouldn't looked nearly as good as it does (especially the pinball part). Defender_2600 pushed me to make the most of the colors in the maze portion (limited as they were)... Just one of a few

Ok, I am VERY confused. I opened up the flashback joystick (the one with the extra buttons) and I see no extra hardware, nor any other pins other than U,D,L,R,F,G. So I have NO idea why the 7800 thinks it's a ProLine. Wait, it gets worse... I plugged in the flashback player 2 joystick (the one *without* the extra buttons), and the 7800 also thinks THAT one is a ProLine... Then I was getting nervous, thinking I broke something with the above modifications I made to the game.... so I tried the Hyperkin joystick, and two other standard CX40s. They worked fine. So, for some reason, the flashback joysticks make the 7800 think a ProLine is connected when they aren't. Without any other pins/hardware than a standard joystick. I am SO confused... EDIT - So I took the board out of the player 1 flashback joystick, and there are some diodes and a resistor so I can kind of understand why the 7800 would think that one is a ProLine... Probably some variance in the signal from a CX40. But I took the board out of the player two joystick, and... nothing. Just a board with connections. So that one has me very confused....

I think I finally need to get one of these...

Ok, so last night I found an issue. For some reason, when 'auto-detecting' a joystick, the 7800 thinks the flashback joystick with the extra buttons is a pro-line joystick. This prevents the use of the regular fire-button. So... I guess, there goes that idea.

Ouch... That's very cool, had no idea you did that. I just figured out the flashback buttons: Menu = U + D Select = L + R Start = U + D + L Rewind= L + R + U I had planned on using 'Rewind' as pause (so we had three separate buttons) I'm not sure which way to go with this now. @Lynxpro - I don't think so, as you would be actively messing with the directions *while the game is in play*... It's bad enough that I was able to isolate the 'U' direction by lightly pressing the Start button on the joystick... that may cause issues while playing...

Hey Guys... I'm wondering if enough people have some version of the Flashback joysticks to start to actually start checking for those special button presses (I believe one of them is "left+right", something you would never hit in real life games... except maybe for Track & Field), one of them is "up+down", etc. There should be a list somewhere of this button mapping... I think I may start doing that, as I can't see it hurting anything. If someone doesn't have the joystick, there's always the 'Start & Select' on the console... Bob Also, (unrelated topic) - I bought one of those hyperkin joysticks (the one with the two buttons on it), and I'm going to rewire it to be the left & right buttons for the 7800... just because of Baby Pac-Man... Much easier to use

Thank you. Like I said in another thread, I need to get my mojo back. The last 2.5 years kinda changed me. But, If all goes well with my current project, I should be able to get back to a few things.

Awesome.

Who is playing the demo? Is that you Al? Damn you are good at the game... Some nice moves there!

Hey Guys: I was asked to get you know about a few things: They are offering a 40% sale for the Minis now until Cyber monday. https://coleco-colecovision.myshopify.com Also @MrBeefy The cartridges of Rainbow Brite for the NES are now selling: https://www.pixelheart.fr/shop/nintendo-nes/rainbow-brite-journey-to-the-rainbow-land-nes-pal-1014-40612.htm (The site is overseas though) Bob

Thanks guys. @Kurt_Woloch Good to see you back in this thread... Whenever I'm asked about this game, I always mention you and what you added to make this happen. After going to Free Play Florida, I realized I'd love to get back to the time I was putting out 2 or 3 games a year... I need to get my mojo back...

Youtube video close up of what I had done:

Thanks! Believe it or not, they are too deep. You only have 10mm of space between the face plate and the circuit board behind it. I think I can 3D print a small bezel with a right angle that can hold a USB connector to fit behind the cart port area...

Thank you, but I don't think that's going to help me in this case. I may have to 3D print something, because the USB connector *has* to go where the cart port is (IMHO). *I find it funny that the faceplate (where the switches are) comes off just like the original 2600 one did...

*Side note, They got back to me. They told me that the header of four pins I was looking at on the board are most likely (?) the USB signals. I verified it with an ohmmeter. However, they don't recommend doing anything internally as they don't feel there is room, and it could ruin the board and void the warranty... But that is exactly why I bought two of them Unfortunately however, it doesn't look like I'll be able to put the USB connection where I really want to put it (where the cart slot is) due to lack of room. I may just put it on the side. I'll show what I've done once I do it.