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About bunnyboy

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    Space Invader
  1. Compared to the AVS so the TV processing/scaling time is removed, the composite->HDMI converter is adding another ~22ms. Slightly better than the converter in the TV and within the measurement errors of an external scaler. Likely in the range where fans will notice in MTPO but general public will not.
  2. The audio is a known bug with certain NOAC chips. You never know if you are going to get the good one or the bad one, because these clones are just rebranded from someone else. QiShengLong makes them, sometimes with small changes in the case like power/reset button placement, then companies like Gamerz Tek put their name on it without any design or quality control. Just need to look at the Hamy12 name on the PCB to see where it comes from https://qishenglong.en.alibaba.com/product/60544465713-209433028/8_BITS_HD_FAMILY_RETRO_VIDEO_GAME_CONSOLE.html Same thing on a Super Retro Trio - https://youtu.be/IhbMB0yJ4EQ?t=2m52s Some of the graphics glitches are from the poor composite->HDMI conversion, like the clipped left side and the top overscan. Not sure about the single line corruption or the buggy item status display.
  3. If you like your ears to bleed, it sounds great! Will be checking out the lag soon, camera battery needs to charge.
  4. I have a pile of unused 2600 chips, and almost all are common games so I assume they are essentially worthless. These two I haven't been able to find with any searches. Are they anything? Thanks!
  5. Thanks for suggesting this, didn't know it was an option. I hope my parody traffic turns into AVS sales
  6. It cost me ~$30k (friend rate) for a few concepts and the solidworks model for my AVS, ~$7k in 3d prints and CNC versions for fitting, and ~$45k for the tooling including controller ports and cart slot. If he would be copying something like Jaguar anyways then the first 2 aren't needed. The Jaguar tooling is designed for a million parts instead of tens of thousands so it would be more expensive, but that isn't important at the quantities he will actually sell. My prototype looks better than his too! https://www.facebook.com/retroUSB/photos/a.1027304100682326.1073741827.1027068990705837/1060350117377724/?type=3&theater
  7. http://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/ispmach-evaluation-board/33074 Size, location of parts like chip/headers/white bar matches. Thats a ~$15 CPLD instead of a ~$50 FPGA. Looks completely unconnected to the red board,
  8. These aren't actually new, but they are back! Use these USB RetroPorts to plug your Atari or Genesis controllers into your computer for use with emulators. The plastic cases are starting to be made again and now lead free. Compared to the Stelladapter this is significantly cheaper but also does not handle analog controllers like the paddles. It also doesn't look as pretty Now available at www.retrousb.com
  9. I assume you tried swapping, so snes 5 -> nes 7? Also tried both port 1 and port 2? (However some games will only work with the light gun in port 2)
  10. Normal NES and SNES controllers use 5 of the 7 pins (power, ground, clock, latch, data). Rectangle, dogbone, advantage, uforce, and the four score use all the same pins. Zapper uses the other 2 pins on the connector, completely separate from the controller (light sensor, trigger). Those 2 pins are frequently not even available on the NOAC chip. If you already have a working nes->snes adapter then it should take a minute to test those other 2. There is absolutely no reason to tie them together. The PowerPad also uses those 2 pins, so some of the buttons will not work.
  11. Some of the board places I have used: www.expresspcb.com - has their own free easy to use design software www.pad2pad.com - another one with their own design software www.batchpcb.com - cheap but slow because they add your boards to others to make big batches www.pcbexpress.com - incredibly fast but expensive, good for prototypes www.myropcb.com - default cheap chinese option, occasionally will be questionable quality There are two places that sound interesting for enclosures and other parts, haven't used yet: www.emachineshop.com - same people as pad2pad, has their own design software for milling/stamping/molding www.mfgquote.com - submit your design and get quotes from anyone, when I tried it most places just said "contact me" instead of looking at the info
  12. For the stuff I have done the design of everything needs to be completely done before a fabricator will touch it. That means code written, PCBs laid out and prototyped, a digital solid model and a physical model for any plastics. They don't reject designs, just give you a high price. If you have a project in mind I can give you some rough cost, quantity, timeline, etc estimates from my experience so far. Circuit boards are very easy for the common engineer to have made. Many board houses will do everything online with no minimum orders. Prices become sane around 100 boards. Many places like www.myropcb.com will also do assembly. They are actually a couple Chinese guys who live in Canada but have factories in China. If you give them Digikey part numbers they will order the parts and solder everything, for a fee. Plastics are much harder and more expensive to have done. The main part is getting the mold made, which is a solid block of cnc machined aluminum that can stand the 1-100 tons of pressure from the plastic injection. Expect that to be $3-10K depending on the size and complexity of your parts. Once you have that the minimum order for plastics will be ~2500 parts. Each part takes only a few seconds to inject/cool/eject so you are really paying for the setup and cleaning of the machines. If you are thinking about doing custom chips, forget about it unless you want 100K parts. Stick with FPGAs for any custom hardware.
  13. Is this by design in the processor like for hold times, or something that has just been observed in the Atari? Any idea how long "significantly after" is?
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