TheRedEye

Jaguar is totally foreign to me, I need some help. I just dumped EPROMs off of a couple Jag protos (of released games, don't get too excited), but I don't know how to assemble them into an image. Each has four EPROMs, and I tried combining the four in order and putting a .j64 extension at the end, but it just crashes Virtual Jaguar. I can send the raw dumps if it's difficult/tricky to explain?

There were others before we found the seller, but they're all gone now. As soon as we were able to verify that one of them seemed legit, we bought everything that was left except a copy of Mario Bros., because the manufacturing dates on the EPROMs were after the game was already in stores. Maybe I should have gotten it anyway but I was already spending a lot on a gamble...someone else has it now.

That's not a prototype ROM, that is the actual Famicom version that HAL published in 1987!

That's my proto, btw.

I find the input lag introduced by the Framemeister completely unacceptable for games that require precision timing, especially paddle games (and yes, I'm a Framemeister owner and lover). As far as I'm concerned 2600 is CRT or bust, I don't think you can get away with any lag.

Just a little semantics correction so no one is confused: "unfinished" implies that these were intended as levels but the work was never finished. In reality, any level you access outside of the normal 1-1 to 8-4 are invalid levels, the game is pulling unintended data from memory and generating levels out of them. The fact that you tend to get a playable level out of almost any random data is a testament to just how elegantly and tightly programmed this game was.

I like VectorGamer's idea the best so far and recommend it. But for the sake of variety, here's my (more expensive) setup that I've used, that will also allow you to do composite & S-video systems later on if you want to. 1. Atari 2600 spits out RF 2. RF goes into a TV tuner (this can be a VCR) - this converts it to composite video. I use/recommend this one (only $10!) http://www.ebay.com/itm/SONY-SINGLE-ANTENNA-TV-TUNER-TU-1041U-/222122527149?hash=item33b788c9ad:g:fX0AAOSwADNXPQf8 3. Composite video goes to a distribution amp. I use/recommend this one https://www.amazon.com/1x2-Composite-Splitter-Distribution-Amplifier/dp/B003D0FC52 4. Output #1 from distribution amp goes to your TV 5. Output #2 from distribution amp goes to your capture card - typical option these days is Elgato HD (do NOT get HD60, only regular HD does composite) but since you're doing SD content, you might be able to get away with this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SVID2USB2-S-Video-Composite-Capture/dp/B000O5RIWO/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1468373447&sr=8-6 6. Capture card video is piped into your broadcasting software of choice - I use/recommend OBS 7. For video of your hands, just get any decent webcam. All you have to do is add it to OBS, it lets you put in multiple video inputs and arrange them however you want. This is the most popular webcam on Amazon, I've used it and loved it in the past (and it's $50 during Prime Day if you hurry!) https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Widescreen-Calling-Recording-Desktop/dp/B006JH8T3S/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1468372706&sr=1-1&keywords=webcam So you're looking at about a $120ish investment for what could amount to a really nice looking stream, which is a pretty fantastic deal. Lord knows I've invested at least 8x that so far for my setup. Some words of warning: - I do NOT recommend skipping the distribution amp and trying to play the game while looking at your computer screen. The amount of delay it adds makes competition-level play like you're talking about impossible. Also do NOT skimp on the brand of amp, that Shinybow is about as cheap as you can get for something that is guaranteed to work perfectly every time with no headaches or tweaking required. I love mine - If you can, don't use wireless to stream, plug in an Ethernet cable. It can make a huge difference. - You're going to have to tweak OBS to have optimal settings based on your connection speed. No matter what, resist any temptation to stream at 30fps! I'd rather watch a 240p 60fps Atari video than a 1080p 30fps one. Those games are 60fps natively and they look totally wrong if you skip half the frames.

This likely isn't an actual prototype, this is a contemporary flash cart people would use to pirate games. You see them listed on ebay all the time as "prototype?". http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Mario-Bros-1-Famicom-FC-Prototype-Cartridge-and-FDS-to-NES-adapter-/272234026275?hash=item3f62699523:g:BtUAAOSwu1VW8F-s http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adventure-Island-Prototype-Rare-Famicom-Fc-Nes-Japan-100-Authentic-/272163261786?hash=item3f5e31cd5a:g:2UUAAOSwZG9WlEhq http://www.ebay.com/itm/The-Gooney-2-Prototype-Rare-Famicom-Fc-Nes-Japan-100-Authentic-/272163261888?hash=item3f5e31cdc0:g:OTkAAOSwKtlWlEvU

edit: Deleted my snarky reply, good luck in your quest!

He talked to the biz-dev guy at Konami, which is not a big deal. I literally have a meeting with Rajna next week, I've had several meetings with him. It doesn't mean anything serious is happening yet.

NO!

Buy one of these http://www.shinybow.com.tw/pro/detail.php?pid=253&cid=111&f=61 I route to my RGB monitor for playing and to my XRGB-Mini for streaming at the same time.

If you really want to preserve the Gamate on a hardware level too, I suggest helping Kevin out if anyone in your network has a spare.

It's actually easy to do that remotely, you get both sides recording their sides in Audacity and you mix the masters together and eliminate room noise (that part takes about 10 seconds after reading a tutorial). I'll help if you ever need it. THAT SAID. YouTube is where it's at, any new podcast I do will be recorded on video in the same room and uploaded there.

I didn't tell her anything, I tweeted about this because it's hilarious. When she credited me for some reason I asked her to correct it to crediting this thread.

Hi hello that's also me. I know this thread moves fast but it's really kind of weird how two people hare are making fun of me for some reason because a blogger didn't do their job?

Yeah haha what an idiot oh wait that's me

Yes, that's me, I asked them to clarify this as soon as I saw it about ten minutes ago. Definitely not wanting to take credit, this was the collective work of the thread.

At least one of you bought one of these boards on ebay to make your own fake prototype mantlepiece, right?

That specific picture where you can see the board is no longer on Facebook. Edit: Darn, beaten.

No it was a gift, it turns out if you work on a Mega Man game for a year they send you a present.

The artificial sharpening in your HDMI picture is hurting my soul. Can you turn that down/off? And for what it's worth, I'm with save2600 on this one. I am one of those people who has RGB modded consoles on a PVM monitor, but for 2600 I stick with the stock RF (on a Sunnyvale Heavy Sixer if you can manage it!). Anything else looks really unnatural to me.

For what it's worth they definitely exist, I have mine https://twitter.com/frankcifaldi/status/688104207493115904

This will be a fine solution for most people, but the 2ms of lag the Framemeister introduces makes the paddle games unplayable for some people (like me).

Convert your Atari's RF to composite (old VCR or TV tuner) and pipe it into this capture card: http://www.thethrillness.com/2014/01/micomsoft-sc-512n1-ldvi-capture-card.html It's a bit of an upfront investment but this capture card will give you everything you need to play and capture any console on a PC monitor with a lag so low it's basically imperceptible. I actually split my signal and play on a CRT while streaming and capture on a computer, if you want to take it one step further. For that you need this (don't settle for less or you'll be sorry) http://www.amazon.com/1x2-Composite-Splitter-Distribution-Amplifier/dp/B003D0FC52 EDIT: No conversion method is going to get rid of RF interference, the best you can do is make sure your conversion to composite is through a nice comb filter. I personally use a high end Sony TV tuner from the 80s ($10 on eBay). If you want the signal to look cleaner than stock RF, you're going to have to do the RGB mod or something. But I personally think Atari looks wrong without noise.