coleconut

Canada Customs is using my 800 to prop an igloo door open in Niagara Falls but hopefully a Mountie will saddle it up and ride it on in to me soon, eh?. -Canuck Coleconut-

I own several Arcadia 2001 variants - i.e. Leisurevision, Hanimex HMG-2650, Schmid TVG 2000, etc. But now I seek their first "cousins". Specifically consoles that play the MPT-03 carts and Palladium carts. Examples are Dynavision, Hanimex, Poppy, Soundic, Rowtron, Trakton, Polybrain. Not popular in N. America. I see them pop up on foreign Ebay sites and they are not usually expensive but the darn shipping from Europe and Australia is the killer - usually more than the console itself. Anyone help me out here?

Very pleased with my pair and easier on the hands to use. I would recommend breathing new life into an old controller. Well done.

It is actually a fairly common problem. Actually there is a current thread right here discussing it. The IC's seem particulary prone to problems due to static electricity (well this seems to be the commonly accepted reason). There is no other solution other than to open the thing up and desolder the chip(s) and replace them. Often a socket is also installed to make future replacement easier.

Hmmm, heat sink? I dont know. I've opened many ADAMs but it doesnt come to mind immediately what this is. Musta been shorting something out somewhere. Or maybe a hardware virus? Anyway glad to help.

Did you use the same Power Supply for both units? IF so have you tested the power supply with a multi-tester to see if all holes put out the correct voltage? (VOLTAGE), I dont have that information in front of me at the moment, any else know what they are suppose to be? +12V, +5V, and -5V? What are you using to hook it up to the TV? Stay Calm Yes the same one but there is no way it is the power supply because the atari module works fine and also the voltages would be different here im pretty sure. -Darren- Input voltage would be different of course but the output would be the same.

The ADAM has two main boards in it. An ADAM board and a Colecovision board and since the latter seems to work, it looks like obviously something on the ADAM side. When you power up, the system does a check on devices attached then if all is well, the printer should do a reset (that familiar buzz....click)then the electronic typewriter screen come up with a chirping sound. YOu dont see that. And pulling reset with a tape installed at this point should now load that tape. Do you have a keyboard plugged in?, and is it plugged in snug and into the front jack (the side jack, although it looks identical is meant for the disk drive) Pull the expansion bay cover off. Are the two tape drive connectors snug? Are there any expansion boards installed in any of the three slots? If so, immediately send them to me I personally would be tempted to take the thing apart and put it back together again noting along the way obvious things like loose connections, chips which need reseating. I have revived some machines by doing just that. Did the previous owner have any success with it? Is the issue a relatively new phenomenon or has it sat in a basement for 20 years and this is the first attempt to fire it up?

Yes that looks like the game commonly known as Cabbage Patch Kids 128K I have it on ADAM disk, not sure if it can be put on a cart. Music is a little different from the standard version, as I recall, and when Cabbage falls down the "crying" sound is different. Not sure where that name came from, I dont think its a full 128K file.

Yes yes and yes. How about Dont expect to get your best price if you wont ship beyond the lower 48. Hello. There is a bigger market out there waiting, wanting, heck BEGGING to bid and sigh a thousand sighs when your item sells for 5 bucks and I've tried to bid $25 but Ebay wont accept the bid 'cause the seller wont ship to you because you are in Canada, Europe, Australia, whatever.... These are not 3rd world countries, people. Dont post your listing without checking what ridiculous price Ebay has determined shipping should be. I email at least twice a day asking if that single cart I am lookin' at buying when its sent to me via priority post is really $46.75 Two words. SPELL CHECK. Or risk sounding like a moron who wont be able to find the post office once you sell your crap. I'm not talkin' like breif instead of brief, I am talking ARARI CARTIGE REEL NICE ADITON TO YOUR COLECSHUN. And what's with those listings where the seller wont take 2 stinking minutes to dust off their crap? Pictures of dust bunnies and 25 years of garage fallout. I am not saying you need to powerwash and armorall everything but at least dust the friggin thing off. Ahh, I feel better.

I found the Atari pinout by Googling around last nite then did a continuity test on 3 different cables I have with a 5-pin round connector and looks like I am likey in business with the Commodore monitor(s). FYI the 1701 is virtually identical on the outside to the 1702 but read somewhere that the innards are totally different. 1701 weighs in a lot heavier too. 2 of the cables have 3 RCA plugs and one has 4 (an extra black one) I also have an Amdek composite monitor stashed away too, not sure what model it is. I am so looking fwd to firing this baby up. Now looking at storage options, have been researching floppy and other 3rd party drives.

1.First, does the keypad on another controller plugged into the same controller port work properly? 2.Did you try the controller that the keypad is not working on in the other controller port? 3.I know these 2 things seem obvious, but I have seem controller ICs with very discreet malfunctions. I actually had one where the #1 on the keypad would flash on and off when was on the test controller screen of the "final test cartridge" binary on my multi-cart. Being that this was an intermittent problem took several tries to even get the controller test screen to function. I guess if the #1 on the keypad flashed on at just the right time, it would disable the controller test from working on either controller. This controller IC problem was so discreet that if I held the #8 down on the controller with the Donkey Kong cartridge inserted, I was able to play 2 player like nothing was wrong. The reason for the paragraph above is say with your controller chip the #0 is on all the time, this might make it so that you can't use the other keypad numbers to make a selection, thus making it appear that the keypad is not working. 4. could be corrosion on the keypad traces, where they make contact with the keypad socket. 5. corrosion on the keypad socket itself. 6. one or more bad diodes on the controller pcb 7. one or more broken or cold soldered wires connecting the cord to the controller pcb 8. the traces on the keypad could be broken 9. the keypad has several layers, 2 of which are very similar to a modern keyboard. A domed contact makes a connection to the layer underneath making a connection. I have seen the inside of this dome contact or the layer if comes into contact with corrosion. I am sure I forgot a few, but there are so many things that could be wrong, it is very difficult to figure out what is wrong sometimes without really taking some time to go over everything. I hope that you are able to get it working. If you get too frustrated and wish to send it to me, I will get everything working 100% Best of Luck Thanks for posting this. I have several controllers where the keypad is whacky, either certain keys wont work (eg 1,4, and 7 dont work but others do) or generate values not chosen (eg pressing 3 results in 9, etc) or combinations result in something weird (eg 4 doesnt work by itself but pressing 4 and 6 simultaneously results in 8, this kind of thing) so I am going to check a few things you mention. The only thing stopping me in the past from revisiting these controllers is that once upon a time I removed the keypad from the connector and had one helluva time getting it back in again. On the subject of testing controllers, I have a copy of a test pgm on disk on the ADAM and one thing I noted is that the results are not always accurate when testing 3rd party controllers. I have a fully functioning Gemini controller that wont produce accurate results for the fire button and directions in the test program but work just fine on the console (?!)

As a proud new soon-to-be owner of an 800 (won one of the raffle prizes last nite!) I am not really familiar at all yet with the machine or what connectors it has. I own already a 1701 and a 1702 both picked up on a $20 Craigslist deal recently. I am wondering what cable you are using to connect your 800 to the 1702? I have a number of random cables kicking around in my spare parts box that have some number of pins in a round DIN connection at one end and some number of colour-coded RCA male jacks at the other end and hoping one works. And as you know there are a number of connectors at the monitor end front and back of the unit so again wondering how you have them connected. Thanx in advance.

It was fun and hey, as a proud 800 owner, I may become Atarinut soon. All the best to you and your family CC, thanks for everything and all the best for your future.

Just a couple of things I spotted: Artillery Duel typo (not dual) Frogger II Threeedeep type (not threedeep) Jukebox typo (not Juke Box) Learning with Leeper typo (not leaper) AFAIK Make a face was a box variety, cartridge was always Facemaker Monkey Academy typo (not acedemy) Quest for Quintana Roo typo (not Qunintana) Wiz Math not Math Wiz

There are various ways, kits, sources of doing the mod, and I have heard of some of the methods used result in the system not working or partially not working (eg. no sound) with the Expansion module 1. The ones that I have offered in the past on Ebayhave had no issue with video nor sound with the mod playing Atari games.

I dont know what you got for them in the end but it looks like buddy is tryin to retire early on the proceeds of flipping them.

He has a bunch of them for sale. They sure look like these.

Here's what might be an early release of Donkey Kong, and the price is only one large. Gimme a major break.....

How about Alphabet Zoo Wiz Math

As luck would have it I just opened up about 6 of them for the first time and I found that cleaning them (if that was your goal) was relatively simple. The hardest part about some of these jobs is often the re-assembly but this was relatively simple, there is a little springy thing for the fire button but it is simple dis- and re-assembly. And just swabbing with alcohol resulted in good response and jitter-free paddles. There isnt much you can do to go wrong with this process. My worst knightmare was my Creativision joysticks and I understand Arcadia 2001 joysticks are no treat either. Coleco super action controllers are a little finicky to re-assemble I found.

Hah, I hear ya! I went the route you allude to, I have a 160K original drive, a 320K modded original, 3 microinnovation drives (320, 720, 1.44), and two hard drives, and enough software to fill a closet. A major investment in bucks and space to be sure. My current project is to replace the printer with an AT power supply that will have connectors for ADAM, CV, and 12VDC for my Arcadia 2001 and compatibles (Leisurevision, Hanimex, Schmid)

Thanks Murph, I changed it. Hope it sells soon, I am getting crazy thoughts about getting it fixed and keeping it. What are the symptoms of the non-functioning? Does electronic typewriter come up? Word pro? Tape try to load but doesnt? cart play? If you can get as far as word pro, do a Ctrl-R, is it BIOS rev R80 or less? I have had some success in reviving these beasts. R77 or better usually function ok, less than R77 and its crap, flakey. Return it to the depot that is on the warranty card...oh wait a minute that was a 1984 offer, we are a little late I can't get anything to come up on the tv screen, even when I use one of those direct to rf connectors. The TV does blink when I have a cart in it and hit reset. It may be as simple as a power supply problem. I have no problem taking a part colecovisions and working on them, but this thing is just so clean and nice, and I have no experience with them, I am not comfortable messing with it. Just to state some obvious troubleshooting items I'd try in case you havent. As long as the printer resets Electronic Typewriter should come up Switch channel 3/4 on the far left looking at the rear. 2nd jack over from the left is monitor out, try that connection to the yellow video input on TV bypassing RF. Unplug keyboard in case ADAMNet is crapping out on it. Other steps may require surgery. Dave

Thanks Murph, I changed it. Hope it sells soon, I am getting crazy thoughts about getting it fixed and keeping it. What are the symptoms of the non-functioning? Does electronic typewriter come up? Word pro? Tape try to load but doesnt? cart play? If you can get as far as word pro, do a Ctrl-R, is it BIOS rev R80 or less? I have had some success in reviving these beasts. R77 or better usually function ok, less than R77 and its crap, flakey. Return it to the depot that is on the warranty card...oh wait a minute that was a 1984 offer, we are a little late

Are you familiar with the game when it works correctly? Because it does have a pause feature normally invoked when you press * and different music plays (how can I describe it....snake charmer played backward?) . It might just be going straight into pause, did you try the * on the keypad?

You don't need the printer for the expansion one? Yeah you do. Expansion #3 is the same as the standalone except for the console which is shorter because it doesnt have the CV board and cartridge slot. You plug the CV into the back, the tray that holds them together covers up the CV power supply connector and the printer powers the lot.