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Rodrigo

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Everything posted by Rodrigo

  1. I tought they were custom because of the 5200 field service manual. In the parts listing or other place (if I'm not wrong) says it's custom. It's good to know they aren't. And wow! They're really cheap. I just bought some (3 - just in case). Now, it's just wait for them. Oh, and thank you again for your research, Zylon.
  2. Yes, you're right. But after that diode, I simply couldn't find what's wrong. I don't have enough knowledge in electronics, so I tried a "dumb" parts replacement (the usual suspects, and some mentioned in that Atari Field Service Manual). No luck. From the topic named "snowy screen", following the chart, the only parts I didn't replace was the A26 IC (since it's custom) and those BD like transistors. Is that IC socketed on your board? I have a junk 4 port, that I use for parts. It still powered up so those parts would still be good. I'll check later and inform you.
  3. Yes, you're right. But after that diode, I simply couldn't find what's wrong. I don't have enough knowledge in electronics, so I tried a "dumb" parts replacement (the usual suspects, and some mentioned in that Atari Field Service Manual). No luck. From the topic named "snowy screen", following the chart, the only parts I didn't replace was the A26 IC (since it's custom) and those BD like transistors.
  4. In fact, I'm just waiting for the parts arrive for assemble it again. I live in Brazil. Eightbitter, thanks again for your advice. I decided to change those parts (well... that's almost everything) after doing a lot of testing (First Zylon, then Best gave me suggestions, but before that I did test it by myself). I looked very carefully at the rf shielding, and to the expansion port, and found nothing. Regarding to the IC's, all of them remain cold (that's not strange, since I have 0 volts at the voltage regulators). With the Zylon advices, I even changed a few components that usually cause problems (voltage regulators, some transistors and capacitors). Even then, nothing happenned.
  5. Thanks for your answer, eightbitter. Brad, at Best Electronics, suggested me to perform some tests, including a power supply diode check, and others in the motherboard (man, he has a lot of patience), and the results point to a dead short . So I decided to replace the motherboard and the power supply. Anyway, thanks for your help and for everybody who aswered this tread (especially Zylon). Rodrigo.
  6. Hi again. This weekend I started to replace things in the board. Replaced both 7805, the big caps, a resistor and even some transistors. And nothing. The 5200 repair guide suggests that maybe that IC mentioned in the link you provided is bad. I also contacted Best Electronics for advice (they helped me in the past regarding a 2600), and they suggested that the power supply could be bad. They said to check diodes, because the power supply could show the correct voltage, but with too low amps for the system board works. Rodrigo
  7. Well, no luck again. I think I'll have to begin to replace components. Believe the voltage regulators should go first. About the caps, should I replace only the electrolitic and the big green ones? What do you think about some of the transistors (like q8-q10) being the cause? Rodrigo That, I can't say and remote diagnostics aren't perfect. I'd start with the large green chicklet cap near the regulators. I just ordered parts to begin replacement. I'll inform my progress here. Hope to have luck soon. Zylon, thanks for your advice. Rodrigo
  8. Well, no luck again. I think I'll have to begin to replace components. Believe the voltage regulators should go first. About the caps, should I replace only the electrolitic and the big green ones? What do you think about some of the transistors (like q8-q10) being the cause? Rodrigo
  9. Hi again. Yesterday I tried your suggestions and still no luck. First, I was able to test the power switch, and found that it's working fine (continuity OK when pressed). I also tried the voltage regulator idea, but nothing happenned. The reading in the vr2 is still 0 volt. Is it normal a 14.5-15 volt reading in the power adapter? I'm running out of ideas here, and even considered to follow the charts in the 5200 service manual (replacing components). Do you have any other suggestion? Rodrigo.
  10. Thanks for your advice. How do I test the power switch? Should I remove it from the board? I don't think that is the power socket, because I was able to follow the adapter voltage till that diode is in front of the voltage regulator 2. Regarding to the pokey, it doesn't sit on a socket, right? I just downloaded the Atari 5200 Field Service Manual to know better about the components on the board. Rodrigo
  11. Well, I have bad news. First, I tried to press the caps with the system on, as sugested. It didn't solve the problem. In fact, it seems that someone already tried that, because de caps bodies were a little dented. But then I reassembled the RF shield, put the board in the case, closed the lid and, well, I just wanted to play a little. An then... nothing! It didn't turn on. No red light, no image, no nothing. I tought that it could be the power adapter that died, then I measured the voltage with a multimeter. It indicated 14.9-15.00 volts without load. Then, I opened the console again and tried to follow the energy through the board. I found that, even trying the female jack pins, the reading was only 0.88 volts! This voltage appeared again in other components around it too. The big transistors with the coolers are reading 0 volt. I can't understand what happenned. The system was working when disassembled and when tried, but then I assembled it again and kaputz! Any ideas, please? Rodrigo
  12. You mean to just press them down (using my fingers)? And if that doesn't fix it, is it possible to replace them (are new ones available)? Thank you. Rodrigo
  13. Oh, and I forgot to say, I changed the channel switch to channel 2 and the picture was better (though the sound interference is still there... ).
  14. Well, last night I've tried some fixes. Tried to replace the RF cable, with 3 spare ones that I have, but it didn't solve the problem. After I read other posts on the forums about similar problems, I managed to deal with that purple coil. After twisting the core a litle, it was possible to reduce some wavy lines it had to a satisfatory level. But, even then, the sound interference is still going. It occurs even with the music in games (it follows the rhythm). What should I do next?
  15. I'll try the Rf cable first. But, if this doesn't fix it, I'll need further advice on the other issues (interference and bad tuning), and how to find those caps. Thank you.
  16. If you have a 2 port you can try to replace the RF cable. The cable is in a female jack on the mobo. A 4 port you probably need a new or rebuilt switch box. Enjoy your 5200 Thanks for your reply, Official Ninja. I'll try to replace the cable and then let you know the result. I was just wondering, is this kind of interference (from the games sound) usual? Rodrigo
  17. Hi everybody! I'm posting here because I bought my first 5200, some days ago (before I was a 2600 only guy). I really liked it and, after rebuilindig the inoperative joysticks (rev9 mylar and aluminun dots), I can say it's a really nice system. It came with 6 games: Tennis, Pac Man, Vanguard, Missile Command, Centipede an Defender. I noticed that it's really touchy about RF noise, because I have problems with wavy lines dependind on how I set the system (the position of the power adapter, rf cable, console). The only thing that's making me annoyed its an RF interference wich follows the games sounds. When the games (like Vanguard) are in attract mode (no sound), there's no interference; when playing, with sound, yes. The most plagued game is Missile Command, on color backgrounds. Do you have any idea what is causing it? Thanks. Rodrigo
  18. You can find more info on it here (in portuguese though):http://www.classicgaming.com.br/cgi-bin/vgh/03.asp?IDConsole=155. There says this system was launched in 1986 by Milmar Indústria e Comércio Ltda. (Milmar Industry & Trade Limited), with 128 games and gamepads instead joysticks.
  19. I also love it. The graphics are amazing and also the sound. Despite you can't jumpkick, it's still a great addictive game.
  20. É meu amigo, nós tivemos e temos umas figurinhas difíceis por aqui. Quanto ao 7800, mandei novamente um email para a Gradiente, solicitando mais informações a respeito. Quando vierem, posto a resposta. English: Yes, my friend, we had (and have) real odd stuff here. Regarding to 7800, I've sent another email to Gradiente, asking more info about it. As soom they reply, I'll post again here.
  21. Yeah there are some very weird consoles like that in Brazil. I remember seeing some strange MegaDrive thing that had two cartridge slots and I came across an NES emulator system that used an N64 controller. Too bad I couldn't grab one and bring it home. The Tec Toy company still producing the Mega Drive and the Master System here. There are 2 versions of the Master System (one portable, a joystick you connect to tv), and 2 versions of the Mega Drive, onde called Mega Drive 4 Guitar Idol and MD play, wich is a portable system with lcd screen. Here are the pictures:
  22. As GroovyBee asked, here are the pictures of my "Phantom System".
  23. A few years ago, I sent an email to Gradiente, asking if they could release information about the "Atari years" (I think Polyvox, owned by Gradiente, was, at least in the begining, Atari's licensee here). They took sooooo long to answer, and, when they did, they just said "yes, we produced Atari in the past", but also "that info is company matters, can't be released to the public" (not with these words).
  24. Thanks for your answer. My camera is currently broken, but I'll take some pictures of it as soon as possible. In words, it´s a 7800 console with NES internals and Genesis gamepads. It was the best NES clone available here.
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