kamakazi

I believe that what S.BAZ mentioned should be a requirement when voters are giving a "No" to a score. If they are voting "No" then they should have to tell why they are voting "No". This allows the feedback to become top priority so that those submitting scores can have better proof. They don't have to say who they are but the feedback should be mandatory.

I think that there is an issue with the 2600 Othello Rules. On the site it states: "Both difficulty switches set to A. Game 1 unless otherwise specified. Must be played on a real 2600-compatible console or expansion module. No frying or use of hacked ROMs. No continues. 1 player only." In the instruction manual it states: Unless the left difficult switch is in the "B" position. By official Othello game rules black always goes first so the right difficulty switch needs to be in the "A" position as well. You might want to modify your rules to express this or there might be some confusion. If I am understanding it correctly, the only variation of the game allowed is Game 3 "B" position, "A" position. Correct?

Is that music from the game or was it added for the video? Any chance of seeing this on an actual cartridge with instructions and a box?

I was under the impression that Last Starfighter was actually Star Raiders II for the 5200. Am I wrong?

No. Since I was a kid then when it happened I bawled and ran to my room. But I took the controller with me

That Defender II by HAL was actually only published by HAL. Atari was responsible for the NES port of Defender II. I didn't think it was too bad but it felt more like the original Defender.

OK. Removed old solder and replaced it with fresh solder. No changes. Game still crashes. I'm just going to call this ROM bad. I'll save the board and case, though. Labels too.

I've thought about that theory as well. I'll give it a shot and see what happens.

All other cartridges work fine in the 2600 I have...even when left on overnight. This is the only cartridge that does that in my collection. I only have the one 2600 JR console so I can't test it on another 2600 as I don't have another one readily available. I've been currently playing Midnight Magic since about 11 AM. It is currently 5:15PM and the system has not been turned off yet while playing Midnight Magic. I've been working on a high score to post to High Score (dot) com and so far the console has been performing very well. That's why I don't think that it is the console at fault or it would have already done the same thing. So I would assume. The edge connectors have been cleaned on Defender and the console just to be sure. And, rest assured, when the game looks like the console has been shut off it hasn't been as indicated by the faint vertical bar on the right side of the screen in the video.

http://youtu.be/a-cXDRVLoiU Here is what my Defender cartridge does. Sometimes it takes about 30 minutes for it to act up. Other times it only takes a few minutes. It's almost like it is getting a virus or something.

I have to put my two cents worth in here. I submitted a score to TGI before it picked up new owners wanting to charge for score submissions. My score got lost apparently and I still have the two hour video I spent on a TI-99/4A beating the crap out of PSP's Burgertime score. I highly believe that Serious' high score website has all it needs to replace TGI. It's fun, it's free, and a great way to make new friends. It has also taught me that no matter how much evidence one does to prove their score that there is still room to provide more. Sometimes a little on the ridiculous side but still interesting. For tournaments I recommend AA or Retrocade Magazine's site. These are some of the best virtual world tournaments I've ever ran across. But it is to be expected to run across sore losers (I mean that in a good way) just as with any sport when their best achievement is suddenly not the best anymore. It's to be expected but is also the same reason why I love video games. There's always room for improvements and the challenge makes it fun. Not to mention that video gamers, at least on here and at High Score, are some of the best friends a gamer could ask for.

Are the PB games for colecovision using the same size label as those for the Atari 2600? I would like to try and fix up the wounded warriors I just received. Namely Q*Bert, Tatankum, and Amidar.

I seen the pics but didn't see Defender or Star Voyager in the listing above. Did these get sold already?

Well, I neglected to mention that after visiting the pawn shop, wife agreed that ordering online was way cheaper. The plus side is that she agreed to let me place an order online with Atari2600(dot)com. Once she seen how paying that much for games in a local store her exact words were "You can get them cheaper online!" and the rest is history. I did order the wounded warriors and nekid ladies I could find to help in the purchase (more gaming for my money) and I also got a different controller. I am still hunting for a Defender and a few other commons I didn't get in this batch. As soon as I can I plan on going back to the pawn shop to try and pick up Pitfall II at least. What I got was: Pac-Man (I know. Not the best Pac-Man port but still a fun game) Berzerk Amidar (never had this one before) Super Breakout Mouse Trap Tutankham (never had this one before) Q*Bert Missile Command Cosmic Ark (one of my favorite 2600 games) Jungle Hunt Asteroids Othello Video Pinball Midnight Magic Joust Circus Atari Breakout Barnstorming (CIB) Archer Competition Deluxe Joystick (with turbo) I'm ready for some Atari action! I really prefer the labels to be intact but, hey, these poor souls needed a good home. It's sad. Here these games are, heavily used and possibly abused, still working. Yet, the Defender game I picked up looked in very good condition from the appearance of the label but only works for a few minutes before ceasing up. Ironic. I'm still wanting to get more 2600 games (I'm on a 2600 kick) and plan making a WTB list later this evening. I would like to get some more from AA members because I know those will work. BTW...if anyone has a Defender without a shell that works PM me.

I have both types. My original controller has the larger POTs. The newer one has the red insert. Those are sealed and difficult to try to clean when necessary. Odd...my original model, with the Made In USA label, has the raised boot. The only change I have made to it is the white flex-circuit I found in another controller I obtained from a yard sale years ago.

If others have already thought about this, or if it has already been mentioned before, then forgive me for repeating it. I just thought about it while trying out the Tempest game I got the other day. The game uses sensitive left and right movement. Barely move the joystick in any left of right direction the slower the ZAPPER moves. Full force movement causes the ZAPPER to travel around the levels at an amazing rate of speed. This game has really shown me just how worn out my 5200 controller really was when other games didn't make it so obvious. Then a thought occurred to me. Most of the 5200 games rely on left and right movement more than up and down movement. In an analog sense. Very few games use all directions in an analog way. So...I got brave and studied the horizontal POT from the inside out. The path that three "fingers" travel on the POT have literally dug up trails over the years of repeated use, to the point that analog controls are sloppy at best. I tried cleaning it up but there were no changes. So I put it back together. Before placing it back inside the controller I had a hunch and removed the vertical POT as well. Without putting it inside the controller I connected the wires for detecting horizontal movement to the POT that was originally for vertical movement. I put a game in, turned on the console, and started a game. Using my thumb while holding the POT I tried to control the game character. The movement was smooth and accurate. I then connected the original horizontal POT to the vertical side and tried Pac-Man. Even if it was too worn out to work in analog mode for horizontal movement it worked rather well for games requiring four-direction controls where analog detection really was not necessary. So I switched the POTs and gave the controller some what more life before needing new parts. With that in mind, and I hope that others find this information useful, should horizontal movement become frustratingly erratic or no where near what it use to be, try switching the POTs around inside the controller. So far it has worked for me. Be sure to glue the POTs back down and be careful when removing the POTs if they have never been removed before as the old glue can still be strong.

It is this reason why I like the "left and right" control method better than the clock-style controls. IF the 5200 had actually received a rotary controller similar to what the arcade version of Tempest received then, yes, I would have expected 5200 Tempest to follow in those footsteps. Considering that not every 5200 owner would have had a 5200 rotary controller (hypothetically speaking) I would have still expected the "left and right" control scheme to be present for those stuck with standard controllers. I guess this is just a choice of preference. If the only control style of Tempest that is acceptable is the arcade rotary controller then by all means, if you can afford it, stick with the arcade cabinet. The 2600 was fortunate to have had the driving controller even if only one game ever made use of it (waste of hardware if you ask me but it was a cool controller). The 5200, however, had analog controls. 5200 owners are stuck with either the standard controls or a Trak-Ball. That's it. Being limited to these two controllers, I feel, gives the games an added learning curve to harness the controllers and the control scheme to each 5200 game on an individual basis. I love my 5200, the controllers, and everything else about it. I don't mind the "left and right" control scheme as long as it is reasonably done and responds well. I still play those where the controls are some what weird and mediocre because its a 5200 game.

Awesome! Thanks!!

Don't knock it until you try it. Even with just the left and right limitations the controls are well done in my opinion. It's not like the 5200 has other options. I'm happy with it and I feel the developers have done an awesome job.

Even with the standard joystick the controls are actually very well done as has already been mentioned. It would be neat to have a rotary controller. However, I feel that the joystick and trackball controller are all the 5200 really needs. Just my opinion. Imagine playing Tempest using Gyruss controls and you have 5200 Tempest...only better!

I don't own a 5200 Trak-Ball controller yet. I had one years ago but it got lost during a move when I was a kid. I will say that some of the 5200 games played much better with that controller over the standard controller. Centipede and Missile Command quickly come to mind. For me the 5200 is the way to go. The Trak-Ball is solid with the exception of the fire buttons which, to me, felt a bit mushy even when brand new.

@Brian R. It is amazing what can be found in the trash. While it wasn't a game machine I found a full stereo (Montgomery Wards Phono, Cassette, 8-Track, AM/FM) in our apartment dumpster complete with speakers. I had to recondition the turntable, and I found a new stylus inside the unit, but it plays like a champ. Now I have an old-school radio to play Pac-Man Fever while I'm playing Pac-Man on my 5200 What Brian has stated about the 5200 controllers is spot on. Most 5200's I found in the wild during the late 1990's were in poor condition. Most of the issues were with the flex circuits inside. Some owners try to fix these controllers themselves, don't know what they are doing, realize taking it apart wasn't such a good idea, and end up destroying the flex circuit when all that would have been needed is some routine cleaning. Hunk of junk? I wouldn't think so. It all boils down to how the previous owner took care of the system. The 5200 was made to be used regularly. Not using at all will do more harm than good. While the console can withstand months or years without using it the controllers simply can't. The need regular exercise to stay in good working condition. Clean the dust off of them at least once a month if not sooner and they will last you a long time.

Tempest 2000 was the only reason why I picked up a Jaguar when the system first came out. It is the only reason why I would grab another Jaguar.

@AtariLeaf HAHA! Guess there's a first time for everything. I've always considered the 5200 a great console and it remains my all-time favorite. I like the NES, and other Atari consoles but I'm right at home on the 5200. I still believe Atari should have stuck with the Personal Arcade Machine name because almost all the 5200's games are arcade ports of good games. Tempest was a much-needed title in the 5200's line-up. Now that it is I hope that it will open the doors for more great arcade games that the 5200 should have received but never did. So, yea, I hold my head up high when I say I am the luckiest 5200 owner on the planet, period.

I finally opened it. I couldn't resist any longer. And I feel as if I just brought home the arcade cabinet. This game is freaking amazing!! Plus side: everything the arcade was about is sitting right in front of me inside a tiny plastic cartridge. Downside: This game really shows just how worn out my 5200 controller really is. It's not so obvious in other 5200 games. This game ROCKS and is everything the 5200 is about. @travistouchdown The cycle has been completed. And I couldn't be more happier (other than getting more 5200 games of this nature). @Brian R. Get the boxed version! It's worth every penny. I've a spare set of 2600 paddle controllers. I wonder if those pots will work in a 5200 controller. "Seek a Trak-Ball controller, you must. Yes."