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About Stormbringer

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  • Birthday 07/11/1972

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  1. could just get rid of the mylar... just sayin!
  2. Sorry about the late reply. Thought I provided the gerber files but I guess not. they are attached here now. The attachment contains the gerber files needed to print the board and the kicad files as well. You can have these made for fairly cheap. Again, I used JLCPCB in the States (Illinois) and it was around 30-35 bucks shipped for 5 of em. Plus the cost and wait on the keys. which you can source easily on aliexpress. I provided one link earlier. So, no need to wait for me to provide kits. go for it! I will say that I should have rotated the keys by like 1%. Adjacent keys slightly "bump" into one another on the corners. I just nipped both sides with cutters to make soldering easy. the plastic around the corners on the keys aren't support but there just to square them off. The boards worked well for me so I ordered more keys to replace my working 800 Mitsumi. I know the mylar will eventually fail. Atari800MitsumiKeyboardStormbringer.zip
  3. FINALLY got my keys from the slow boat. Soldered them all in and it works great! VID_20220104_135844.mp4
  4. To credit Multifarious Industries, who's original design this is based off of, his PCB lined up with MOST of my keys and the mounting holes. I needed to rotate the keys to follow the angled plungers and alter the placement of a couple keys. Also needed to change the footprint from cherry to the kailh profile.. Short story long, I'm sure the mounting holes will line up. I've never seen the bottom keyboard portion of the Hi-Tek so I do not know if there is a "plunger" to smack down on the key switches. I will say that the feel of the Mitsumi is pretty damn sweet. To the point that I will be converting all of mine, working or not.
  5. I've had it with trying to get the Mitsumi mylars to work in my 800's. I know some people are trying to produce a replacement but this to me seem like a better long term solution. Using a PCB and kailh low profile switches. it feels good to me at least. I'm no keyboard snob, however. Seems damn satisfying with the tactile feedback. Might need to find a spacer that will fit between the pcb and the upper shell/keyboard but from my testing works without em.. Just haven't found anything off the shelf(I admit I haven't looked either). I'd hate to have to print something. that means days fiddling around with the 3d printer. I like this solution because it uses the keyboard frame so you don't have to monkey around with printing adapters or deal with wobbly keys. About $80 bucks in parts too. Bought a sample pack of switches on amazon for testing. Ordered the rest of the switches from: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32838369089.html The PCB I had made from JLCPCB. PCBWay must have stock in shipping companies.... VID_20211215_132432.mp4 VID_20211215_134412.mp4
  6. To my chagrin I have not read the 100 pages on this thread. I've read the last couple. Is there a place I can get on a waiting list? I see the http://ltoflash.leftturnonly.info/ site but would rather not jam up this guys email if there is an official waiting list I can sign up for.
  7. 400 incognito would be awesome. My first computer will get an upgrade
  8. I can mail you a case from a dead 850.... PM me if you want, just pay shipping.
  9. Its not.. just the insulation covering the view. just ugly looking. I hit it with the meter. Like I said earlier, I got sloppy since I've done it so many [email protected]#[email protected]# times. Is the pinout different on the RevC? I just used the image they provide (above) - maybe its wrong.
  10. Wiring came straight from the brewing academy. Used this guide and the image below. I used another guide here but the only differences were the +5 and ground points. I changed them to what TBA had just to be official. Not trying to be rude, but I don't believe its a bad wiring job. Unless the docs are wrong. Can someone provide me some technical reason for the jailbars?
  11. I've tried it mounted on the 4050 at first, gave up on that. in the pics is showing soldered directly. So no need to split the pad. Its not just a revc issue. happens the same way on my revd on a atari heavy6.
  12. Ok, I've been battling video out issues starting with RevC. I have two 2600's exhibiting the same issue. A sears Heavy6 and an Atari Heavy6 I've been through the wringing a million times and don't believe its the issue. In the past I was using a LCD tv and getting some odd "ghosting" issues. I figured I'd try to fix my commodore 1084 since I hear they are decent for composite. I don't want to use SVIDEO, nobody has that on their TV's nowadays and I wanted to give one of them to my sister. I fear she'll tell me my skills are crap when she hooks it up Mine will work fine via the retrotink I have. Anyhow, On to the issue... BARS!!! lots of bars! You need bars? I got em. There is a C in this one but the outcome is the same. I used to have them socketed over the 4050 but I hear the RevC doesnt like that for whatever reason so its soldered directly. I know the solder job is ugly, this is prolly my 50th time going back and forth so my pride got lazy... I've de-soldered the 4050 and didnt seem to make much of a difference either but I dont recall if I've tested it on the commodore monitor that way. Anyone have any idea's?!?! I cant get any specific info on this type of output. Oddly enough it seems that whites dont have bars in them. you can see this in the numbers/activision logo.
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