Stormbringer

Its not.. just the insulation covering the view. just ugly looking. I hit it with the meter. Like I said earlier, I got sloppy since I've done it so many [email protected]#[email protected]# times. Is the pinout different on the RevC? I just used the image they provide (above) - maybe its wrong.

Wiring came straight from the brewing academy. Used this guide and the image below. I used another guide here but the only differences were the +5 and ground points. I changed them to what TBA had just to be official. Not trying to be rude, but I don't believe its a bad wiring job. Unless the docs are wrong. Can someone provide me some technical reason for the jailbars?

I've tried it mounted on the 4050 at first, gave up on that. in the pics is showing soldered directly. So no need to split the pad. Its not just a revc issue. happens the same way on my revd on a atari heavy6.

Ok, I've been battling video out issues starting with RevC. I have two 2600's exhibiting the same issue. A sears Heavy6 and an Atari Heavy6 I've been through the wringing a million times and don't believe its the issue. In the past I was using a LCD tv and getting some odd "ghosting" issues. I figured I'd try to fix my commodore 1084 since I hear they are decent for composite. I don't want to use SVIDEO, nobody has that on their TV's nowadays and I wanted to give one of them to my sister. I fear she'll tell me my skills are crap when she hooks it up Mine will work fine via the retrotink I have. Anyhow, On to the issue... BARS!!! lots of bars! You need bars? I got em. There is a C in this one but the outcome is the same. I used to have them socketed over the 4050 but I hear the RevC doesnt like that for whatever reason so its soldered directly. I know the solder job is ugly, this is prolly my 50th time going back and forth so my pride got lazy... I've de-soldered the 4050 and didnt seem to make much of a difference either but I dont recall if I've tested it on the commodore monitor that way. Anyone have any idea's?!?! I cant get any specific info on this type of output. Oddly enough it seems that whites dont have bars in them. you can see this in the numbers/activision logo.

Around the 10 min mark.

Was my experience too... I even reached out to them with my order number asking for status but I just got mine the other day. I watched a video where they were explaining why it was taking so long

I just got my VIP #93 package delivered! Gotta say, WOW! They did a damn amazing job. Love all the little goodies! yes, I got my patch too I'm torn about opening it up. I mean, its meant to be enjoyed but then on the other hand its... Anyone get their rom copy? does it work on harmony cart?

Can this be run on a teensy or arduino?

I had to use Edge.... No go on firefox. "Circus Convoy (NTSC) VIP Collector Edition, serial number: 000093" Wohoo!

Somebody needs to 3d model them for Resin printers.

If you dont mind me asking, what kind of time-frame do you think that would be?

I dont see this as being one issue alone but at least two. one seems to be the separator sheet and the other seems to be the mylar doesn't contact the fingers on the board with even pressure. is there a conductive glue? these might have to be carefully adhered with those having the second issue.

Hole-y crap you ain't messing around! that looks amazing! Could you somehow use an old IDE cable?

Just to add... I bought two and am having the same issues everyone else is having. I've been trying to solder the fingers on the board side to give a bit more height but that doesnt seem to be working all that well. if this "separator sheet" works that would be great news! Better yet, I hope that Krenath fellow is successful in making a full cherry replacement. I'm starting to hate this mylar stuff.

I think its the pressure on those fingers... I've been experimenting with trying to flow some additional solder to get a tighter connection but its been intermittent. The mylars do look damn spiffy, however.

Hows this coming along? I've finally gotten a new 800 mylar but its not working... Hate trying to fix these keyboards!

I personally think it would be worth it. I have two 800's, one with a dead keyboard and one I'm sure will die. I'd have no problem spending the money for a solution that would resolve the issue

So, at the risk of incurring wrath - you ever start tinkering with this again FJC?

I just signed up for 4 of em... why not, right? Anyone know how long this will take after the "go ahead" to get actually produced?

Yes, It boots the disk after I reset the machine. If you re-read my post I un-soldered the switch and it was removed. it was acting this way before I touched the switch and after it was removed. so im sure the switch isnt the issue.. I'm guessing the GTIA might be going flakey?!?!? No chips seem to get especially hot.

So I've started testing some of my other Atari's and never got around to the XEGS before. I'm not too familiar with it. Upon power up it looks like its stuck on the cassette boot as if the START was held down. sometimes it works normal, most of the time not. if I hit the reset it will boot into Basic or to the missile command like normal. the keyboard test works too for the START, OPTION, etc.?!?!?!? Anyhow, my first suspect was the START switch being crap... I tried jamming on the button several times to release any oxidization (like a 1200xl keyboard) but no good. Then I tried un-soldering the switch, this [email protected]#C#%s melts!!!... ok, I got the switch out and fixed the switch... set that aside and expected the XEGS to boot into either basic with the keyboard or missile command. That did not happen. Still having the same issue. Any ideas what to look for next?

ok, honestly there is like 1k pages talking about tacos... I tried to casually pick up on it but wtf are you guys on about?

420? is this version code named Illinois? lol

That was a fun read!