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Stormbringer

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Posts posted by Stormbringer

  2. Posted

    Wiring came straight from the brewing academy. Used this guide and the image below. I used another guide here but the only differences were the +5 and ground points. I changed them to what TBA had just to be official.

     

    Not trying to be rude, but I don't believe its a bad wiring job. Unless the docs are wrong.

     

    Can someone provide me some technical reason for the jailbars?

     

    image.thumb.png.6ff80f5fba2e7e66ba38937f7659e377.png

  3. Posted

    I've tried it mounted on the 4050 at first, gave up on that. in the pics is showing soldered directly. So no need to split the pad.

    Its not just a revc issue. happens the same way on my revd on a atari heavy6.

     

     

     

     

     

  4. Posted

    Ok, I've been battling video out issues starting with RevC.

    I have two 2600's exhibiting the same issue.

     

    A sears Heavy6 and an Atari Heavy6

     

    I've been through the wringing a million times and don't believe its the issue. In the past I was using a LCD tv and getting some odd "ghosting" issues. I figured I'd try to fix my commodore 1084 since I hear they are decent for composite. I don't want to use SVIDEO, nobody has that on their TV's nowadays and I wanted to give one of them to my sister. I fear she'll tell me my skills are crap when she hooks it up :) Mine will work fine via the retrotink I have.

     

    Anyhow,

    On to the issue... BARS!!! lots of bars! You need bars? I got em.

     

    There is a C in this one but the outcome is the same. I used to have them socketed over the 4050 but I hear the RevC doesnt like that for whatever reason so its soldered directly. I know the solder job is ugly, this is prolly my 50th time going back and forth so my pride got lazy... I've de-soldered the 4050 and didnt seem to make much of a difference either but I dont recall if I've tested it on the commodore monitor that way.

     

    Anyone have any idea's?!?! I cant get any specific info on this type of output. Oddly enough it seems that whites dont have bars in them. you can see this in the numbers/activision logo.IMG_20210412_141446.thumb.jpg.7abf824db67bc0e18eccc3cc0a1a209b.jpg

     

     

     

    IMG_20210412_141609.thumb.jpg.047340b78d01a526b80d05d91cce6ce6.jpg

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    IMG_20210412_141455.jpg

    • Like 1

  5. Posted

    22 minutes ago, MrTrust said:

     

    You and me both, man. I've seen at least one person with a higher serial number than mine get their shipping notice already, so either they're going out of order, or something got screwed up.  I would try to inquire with them, but the answer to "when am I going to get X thing" is always "in the amount of time it was already going to take, plus the extra time it took to deal with this question."  Have we got any idea what the general trend between order and shipping notice has been?  I'm at 24 days right now I think.

     

     

    Link or it didn't happen.

     

    Around the 10 min mark.
     


     

     

     

    • Like 2

  11. Posted

    On 1/30/2021 at 3:13 AM, RWAP said:

    Yes I would advise waiting.  We have had this before where the factory try the membranes on a test machine without any issues, but once they reach the hands of the actual users, it is a different story.

    Once the factory is operating normally, I will get a plsastic spacer made and something to put extra pressure on the back of the fingers to ensure better contact and send these out.

    Rich

     

    If you dont mind me asking, what kind of time-frame do you think that would be?

  14. Posted

    Just to add... I bought two and am having the same issues everyone else is having. I've been trying to solder the fingers on the board side to give a bit more height but that doesnt seem to be working all that well. if this "separator sheet" works that would be great news! Better yet, I hope that Krenath fellow is successful in making a full cherry replacement. I'm starting to hate this mylar stuff.

    • Like 1

  21. Posted · Edited by Stormbringer

    16 hours ago, _The Doctor__ said:

    if it was making it into basic or missile command... then you muffed the switch, thought it was fixed... and now it doesn't do as before. Then I'd go back to the switch.

    After restoring things to how they were... then I'd replace the ROM with a know good one to start down the process.

     

    Do you have a disk drive?

     

     

    Yes, It boots the disk after I reset the machine. If you re-read my post I un-soldered the switch and it was removed. it was acting this way before I touched the switch and after it was removed. so im sure the switch isnt the issue.. I'm guessing the GTIA might be going flakey?!?!? No chips seem to get especially hot.

  22. Posted

    So I've started testing some of my other Atari's and never got around to the XEGS before. I'm not too familiar with it.

     

    Upon power up it looks like its stuck on the cassette boot as if the START was held down. sometimes it works normal, most of the time not.

    if I hit the reset it will boot into Basic or to the missile command like normal. the keyboard test works too for the START, OPTION, etc.?!?!?!?

     

    Anyhow, my first suspect was the START switch being crap... I tried jamming on the button several times to release any oxidization (like a 1200xl keyboard) but no good.

    Then I tried un-soldering the switch, this [email protected]#C#%s melts!!!... ok, I got the switch out and fixed the switch... set that aside and expected the XEGS to boot into either basic with the keyboard or missile command. That did not happen.  Still having the same issue. Any ideas what to look for next?

     

     

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