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Posts posted by CannibalCat
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Yeah, must be your TV, I've never seen that happen on real H/W, I use CRTs though, not flat screen LED, LCD or Plasma.
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The old EPROM used are very slow, typically 200ns.
I suspect more of a RAM address setup problem. I've had the experience that if you keep CE set some RAM memories show transitory "trash" in reading. I would put CE and OE together.
Also if your RAM is fully CMOS maybe you would need pull up. But I don't remember if in inputs or outputs to account for TTL to CMOS different voltages for logical 1.
nanochess... thank you, your advice pointed me in the right direction... problem solved!
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Hi, was seeing odd artifacts with an EPROM emulator unit I'm using and was wondering if the speed of memory in it (read time) was a factor, the static RAM is at 70ns. I have a burned EPROM of the same code which has a speed of 45ns and works fine, is there a minimum access speed for the CV?
Thanks,
Rich
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Looks great. Any thoughts of implementing F18a compatability for smooth scrolling?
Don't NEED F18A to do smooth scrolling... can be done in software with tile shifting, memory permitting that is. SGM would be helpful there.
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I have a Mame arcade machine at home, and it's true that some games are way better than on the Colecovision (Time Pilot, Popeye, Donkey Kong jr., etc). But, I think the following are actually much better on the Colecovision:
Gorf
Frenzy
Carnival
Omega Race
Pepper II
Lady Bug
Especially Gorf and Frenzy--they both look and play better and are more fun. Even with the missing level, Gorf on the Colecovision is the better game compared with the arcade. I also think that Space Invaders on the Atari 2600 is so much better than the arcade version
There is no way that Gorf or Omega Race are better (or even good) on CV. They are both horrible ports actually, with bad AI and graphics compared to the arcade. Gorf on CV doesn't even play like the arcade. Omega Race on VIC-20 is better than the arcade version, and even Gorf on the VIC is better than the CV one.
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Gotta love it... "lost interest from waiting 8 months for it", (so selling it for over 3x what I paid for it)... yeah ok...
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Oh man, this is so awesome.
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If they are still in current production I would only pay what they are selling for from opcode. Any higher than that is stupid. If they were no longer made thats different.
Well, that's assuming you can get one (or wait extremely long for one)... for me, I snagged one at 2x the normal price off EBay because I wanted one to use now, before I die, not getting any younger
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Anyone know how to contact Harvey deKleine? Need a MegaCart PCB for homebrew test rig. Thanks!
Rich
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Looking for a non beat-up CIB or NIB/Sealed copy of River Raid for the Intellivision. Must be complete and in good condition (including the box).
Thanks!
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These still available by any chance? Interested in Protector and Jawbreaker II
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Yes, but as I mentioned before, I want to own the real cartridges of the games I wanna play, as I love building my own collection
I concur!
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And for $34 more + the cost of shipping you could've had the entire CV library plus homebrew games.
Some people (including myself) prefer to have original carts, not SD carts (I've had them, and it's not the same to me). Let him get real carts, no need for a SD cart. He would be better off using that money to buy a SGM or something.
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anyone know if this seller is legit?
He's got a mario bros as well.
I was going to ask the same thing, dude has a bunch of stuff he usually starts bidding at $1 with no reserve, etc.
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HI there, I'm new to AtariAge but not to ColecoVision. My entire collection was stolen in the 90's and I had some insanely rare games. So I decided to try to rebuild finally after 20 some-odd years.
This seems like good time for me to jump in and ask this question since it's currently being discussed: what's the deal with the home-brew ColecoVision scene? It seems like the carts are totally overpriced. I actually do have an SGM that was given to me a few years ago by Eduardo (long story), but I still don't have a single game for it since the carts are outrageously priced it seems. I am trying to figure out why. Most of what I see is between $200-$300.
Just trying to catch up on CV Collecting culture. Anyone that would like to explain it to me, I'd be deeply grateful.
Thanks!
Jason
Long story short, don't look for them on EBay... a bunch of shady dudes selling them (and bootlegs of them) on there. Buy direct from the authors.
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For battle of hoth , i shift the bits of patterns directly in VRAM.
Exactly what I was looking for... any code samples/snippets you could share?
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Let me show off a bit
:-)
Yeah, how!
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I don't know, but I assume they did it the same as I did for my games in the Search for the Stolen Crown Jewels series:
Only a few rows are scrolled (for me, depending on the game uo to 4). Nova Blast only needs to scroll the cliffs at the bottom row, and 2 or 3 rows for the islands. SCJ games have two rows on the bottom and up to 2 rows of clouds in the sky. All other movement is done via sprites.
For those rows, you stole each tile multiple times, depending on how smooth the scrolling will be, you have 4 or 8 shifted versions shifted by 2 or 1 pixels each. Then you quickly overwrite the VRAM data for the 3 or 4 rows in your game main loop. You only need to write 32 bytes of VRAM per row.
Philipp
Thanks for the insight, I figured that was what Nova Blast was doing... Defender perplexes me a bit more but I guess it's more of the same.
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I know the standard technique of shifting char tiles for software vert and horiz scrolling on the CV, but how did they get around this and make it seem so smooth on games such as Defender, Nova Blast, Victory, etc?
Thanks,
Rich
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Super Game Module, not too much of a markup...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/272299070414?_trksid=p2055359.m1431.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT -
Thanks guys, yeah Albert gave me a heads up... appreciate the input!
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Does anyone have any pre-made EPROM boards?
Thanks,
Rich
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No, not heat. Light. VERY bright incandescent light onto the EEPROM window. The heat was just a very unfortunate byproduct. It got placed in a little drawer. You had to take the board out of the housing IIRC. That part is vague in my head.
That would be UV light then... but why was it "hot"?
Controller repair... how to get the keypad ribbon cable back in?
in ColecoVision / Adam
Posted
Hi, had to swap out a bad keypad on a controller, but can't seem to get the ribbon cable back into the connector, any tips?